197 replies to this topic

[dattoman]

Your right Toranas are different to H series
But A9X and L34 are not your average Toranas and they got the H series KPI

[A9X]

Concept i will have a close look at mine tomorrow.
Unfortunately they are still in the holden protective coating in the original boxes.
They feel like they are coated in honey!
I'll clean them up in something and see what can be seen.

Welby

[Toranamat69]

ConceptSS,
The only way I know to measure which stub is a 7 degree KPI and which is a 9 degree is to put a torana stub on my test rig and note the camber setting, then swap over to the other stub and recheck the camber - if you have 2 degrees more negative camber then you have swapped to a 7 degree stub - the difference is too subtle to measure any other way that I know of.

The HX stubs I have here came out of a statesman and look exactly the same as the pics of those A9X ones except they don't have any of the same numbers cast into them, just the word holden and a few numbers cast in them but in different spots to the A9X and they don;t have the part numbers on them either.
Torana are definately 9 degree KPI and the H series 7.
All the A9X guys on here tell me the A9X is also 7 degree KPI but I don't have any to measure so I take their word (and the fact they share part numbers with the 1 tonner).

You may well run into trouble trying to use 7 degree stubs getting your alignment right - depends how low your car is and how much camber you want to run. I currently use HZ stubs on my LX and I am running 0.5 neg camber, 2.8 positive castor - I can just achieve those settings with not too much to play with. My front springs are std height so the front is lowered just the 30mm difference in the stub itself. If I went more than about 10mm lower in the spring, I would have no choice but to run another 0.25 or 0.5 degree negative camber which is what the A9X's ran from memory.

If you can get your front end aligned correctly for how you want, then all things being equal, I would choose a 7 degree stub as you don't lose as much neg camber as your front wheels turn. The difference is subtle and a little bit more positive castor would offset the effect but then you get heavier steering.

Since I plan to use tubular control arms and I can make them long enough to set my camber and castor where I want it, I have just ordered a set of CRS 2" drop HR stubs for my final setup which uses the 7 degree KPI.

M@

P.S. Where are you located?

Edited by Toranamat69, 11 February 2007 - 11:42 PM.

[dattoman]

I thought the HX tonner and A9X were alittle meatier
Slightly more casting and heavier

Less flex between the balljoints
And they do flex believe me

[dattoman]

I think its HX not HZ
And its a difference you can see by eye.... at least the last time I looked ( about 5 years ago )

[dattoman]

Thats often been said about you rory but I've defended you

Thats good you have thick ones rory as you're using slicks
This will help stop deflection and pad knock off

Got your backing plates cut yet and the right pads ?

[REDA9X]

A9X and HZ Chassis and cab are the same part number.

[Dangerous]

A9X stub axles share the same part number as HX series ONE TONNER, not the standard HX series - I've posted this a few times before. I'm also sure they are physically the same size, so I'd suspect that there is some heat treating, or forging differences between them.

The 'early' style, ie off an A9X has slightly different numbers and markings cast in them than the later LX one tonner ones - at least my sets do.

Concept, without checking, I'm pretty sure the HX one tonner stub axles have "HD" stamped (not cast) into them in the location shown on your photo.

[StephenSLR]

the r is for the drivers side.

Just curious to know what the difference is between right and left upper control arms for UC Toranas and why they are different as the LX UCA's were interchangeable right?

s