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Difference between LX RTS & UC RTS ???
#126
_rorym_
Posted 28 February 2007 - 11:55 AM
R
#127
_LX-5000_
Posted 01 March 2007 - 10:54 AM
Anybody got any idea's??????
Or am i
![:fool:](http://www.gmh-torana.com.au/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/fool.gif)
#128
_rorym_
Posted 28 April 2007 - 10:42 AM
R
#129
_CHOPPER_
Posted 28 April 2007 - 06:32 PM
The difference is the stop for the steering arms.Just spoke to noltec suspension about those new offset adjustable LCA bushes $162 a pair so 2 sets $324 a bit pricey for me, but i did see on their webpage they list a different LCA assembley for LH & LX.RTS, i thought only UCA were different & i'm sure i read the same in here somewhere.
Anybody got any idea's??????
Or am i
#130
_Brewster_
Posted 03 July 2007 - 09:03 PM
I just bought my UC upper control arms today with the steering arms, god damn it!
Well, atleast I have a spare set now, just incase.
Whats the difference between the UC steering arms, and the Harrop ones, does anyone have a pic of them, and whats the advantage of having them? Is it just extra bling for the under carriage?
#131
Posted 04 July 2007 - 12:49 AM
They lower the outer tierod about another 15mm or so. Purely a bumpsteer thing.
M@
#132
_Brewster_
Posted 04 July 2007 - 01:20 AM
I kinda understand the idea of lowering the stub axle, fitting larger wheels and retaining the same spring height, but does it alter the ride height? As in the minimum clearance for regristration purposes?
#133
Posted 04 July 2007 - 06:14 PM
Some of the CRS stubs actually have 2 sets of holes for the steering arms - but you try to get some sense out of CRS as to which stubs have the extra set of holes
![:fool:](http://www.gmh-torana.com.au/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/fool.gif)
If you have the CRS stubs with 2 sets of holes for the steering arms, the ones to use would be the ones which position the tie rod end the same height above the lower balljoint as the original Torana stubs have as that is the critical distance, not the actualy height the axle is compared to the tie rod end.
M@
#134
Posted 18 July 2007 - 06:20 AM
![Posted Image](https://cache.gmh-torana.com.au/i27.photobucket.com/albums/c175/antelopeslr5000/Torana/DropStubAxleUCII.jpg)
![Posted Image](https://cache.gmh-torana.com.au/i27.photobucket.com/albums/c175/antelopeslr5000/Torana/DropStubAxleUCI.jpg)
As you can see in the photos they have 2 sets of mounting points for the steering arms (as M@ has already pointed out). They also have front and rear mounting points for the calipers.
I would say the lower set would be for the Torana steering arms (LX and UC excluding A9X).
Now, from my limited knowledge (more a guess really!) I'd say the upper steering arm mounting points would be used if you were using these drop stub axles in a HQ/HZ setup (or an A9X with A9X/Harrop steering arms). As the standard HQ/HZ stub axle sits higher than that of the standard Torana stub axle (excluding A9X), using these 2" Torana drop stub axles in a HQ/HZ setup will effectively reduce them to only roughly a 1" drop.
Does that make sense? I'm probably not right, just speculating really!
![:huh:](http://www.gmh-torana.com.au/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)
#135
Posted 18 July 2007 - 04:50 PM
hope you running 18's plus as they look pretty low.
Edited by ALX76, 18 July 2007 - 04:56 PM.
#136
Posted 19 July 2007 - 01:37 AM
I didn't buy or bid on them. I just happen to stumble across them for sale on eBay when looking for other Torana parts.^ you will see where the steering arms need to sit once the stubs are installed,
hope you running 18's plus as they look pretty low.
#137
_LH 333_
Posted 16 August 2007 - 01:36 PM
what are the best balljoints i can buy as ive broken one and had a nyloc nut come off the other
as both LCA's have now hit the road at about 40k ive bought a uc front end for a case of beer and was wondering if all i need to do is replace uppers lowers and steering arms from the uc front end onto the lh
and if i can just bolt it all together without any dramas or having to drill holes
cheers
GUY
#138
Posted 16 August 2007 - 05:23 PM
You can get close to UC suspension specs with the stock LX upper arms, but personally I'd rather do the job properly. The UC crossmember should also have the shroud and mounts over the fibre steering coupling which only the V8 LH/LX front ends had, and it's a bonus too.
You might want to consider drilling a couple more upper wishbone mounting holes in a lower position than the UC (as per previous posts), just in case you decide to use them.
#139
_LH 333_
Posted 17 August 2007 - 01:34 PM
So you recomend i bolt the entire uc front end into it.
I dont see why not cos i have the whole unit so i may as well but the thing is what about these upper wishbone holes, i thought i could just get my nolathane bits off my current front end put them on the uc front end then bolt in without any suspension dramas its just ive got 17s and 300mm brakes so i dont really want anything hitting.
also balljoints whats a good brand and wehre can iget them
#140
_rorym_
Posted 25 September 2007 - 05:31 PM
Harrop just upped the price on A9X arms to $341 a pair plus freight so thats nearly $400 now...If what M@ says in the last line is right above I think I can live with the UC arms.Also, aren't the studs a press fit? The tolerances would have to be very accurate right?
How big should the holes be? I wouldn't want the studs loose in there if they are not supposed to be.
Drill the holes to 7/16" - the bolts are splined like a wheel stud so you don't have to hold the head with a spanner to stop them turning when you are doing/undoing the nuts.
You can either give the bolts a tap on the head with a hammer and drift or just tighten them up and they will bite and pull through - I would still give them a tap on the head once done up just to make sure they are all the way in and don't loosen off at a later stage.
If I keep hooking in this arvo I should be able to update my cardomain site a bit later on and best of all I will actually have all of my baseline measurements done and I can get on with the PS conversion.
In case you all haven't reallised, it sucks doing repeat mesurements for every combo of front end parts for bumpsteer etc - hence why I keep putting them off - Oh well nearly there.
I am going to skip a few combo's but I am going to do the HQ stubs with LX and UC steering arms as that is renound for being a nasty setup (that is what I am currently doing when I get off the net and out of the aircon)
I have just done the Std A9X bumpsteer and it is the best of the standard Torana setups - only just slightly better than the UC bumpsteer but bugger all in it.
M@
R
Edited by rorym, 25 September 2007 - 05:32 PM.
#141
_Brewster_
Posted 26 March 2008 - 02:25 PM
I'm awaitng a reply from CRS on the price of there drop stub axles, however, I did email a new company here, there website isn't quite up and running yet, but I got a price for their one for my Torana, $710 plus freight. JESUS! If the CRS ones are gonna be near that price then I need to know the following,
1. HX/HZ 1 Tonner, what price should I be looking at from the wreckers,
2. Do they give you a drop effect, someone said 1", is that correct,
3. What brake calipers can you mount to them, and,
4. Will a commodore hub just slide on, or do you have to redrill the rotors to suit commodore stud pattern?
Cheers
#142
Posted 26 March 2008 - 02:40 PM
2. Yes 1 inch over torana
3. anything that suites hq to wb
4. yes, but not sure if commy hub offset suites hq-z calipers
#143
_Brewster_
Posted 26 March 2008 - 03:10 PM
![:D](http://www.gmh-torana.com.au/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
#144
_Brewster_
Posted 26 March 2008 - 09:03 PM
#145
_CHOPPER_
Posted 26 March 2008 - 09:16 PM
#146
_Brewster_
Posted 26 March 2008 - 09:18 PM
![:tease:](http://www.gmh-torana.com.au/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/tease.gif)
#147
_CHOPPER_
Posted 26 March 2008 - 10:32 PM
#148
_Brewster_
Posted 27 March 2008 - 08:46 AM
#149
Posted 27 March 2008 - 10:22 AM
#150
_CHOPPER_
Posted 27 March 2008 - 01:18 PM
You need to buy DBA014U discs, get the centrebore machined down from 71.5mm to 69.5mm and get them studded to Commodore pattern. Only problem is, most off the shelf Comodore rims smaller than 17" will hit the top control arm with that setup.WOAH NELLY! Thanks for that info Chopper, a bit of an eye opener, can you get a HQ disc, that has commodore stud pattern on it?
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