The top ball joint is offset back about 15mm..therefore there has to be a L and R.
R
Difference between LX RTS & UC RTS ???
Started by
antelopeslr5000
, Oct 05 2006 03:43 AM
197 replies to this topic
#127
_LX-5000_
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Posted 01 March 2007 - 10:54 AM
Just spoke to noltec suspension about those new offset adjustable LCA bushes $162 a pair so 2 sets $324 a bit pricey for me, but i did see on their webpage they list a different LCA assembley for LH & LX.RTS, i thought only UCA were different & i'm sure i read the same in here somewhere.
Anybody got any idea's??????
Or am i
Anybody got any idea's??????
Or am i
#128
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Posted 28 April 2007 - 10:42 AM
I am going to slip over to the Holden Wreckers to check these 4 HX one tonners.
R
R
#129
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Posted 28 April 2007 - 06:32 PM
The difference is the stop for the steering arms.Just spoke to noltec suspension about those new offset adjustable LCA bushes $162 a pair so 2 sets $324 a bit pricey for me, but i did see on their webpage they list a different LCA assembley for LH & LX.RTS, i thought only UCA were different & i'm sure i read the same in here somewhere.
Anybody got any idea's??????
Or am i
#130
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Posted 03 July 2007 - 09:03 PM
Are you serious? LX RTS steering arm is the same as UC RTS steering arm?
I just bought my UC upper control arms today with the steering arms, god damn it!
Well, atleast I have a spare set now, just incase.
Whats the difference between the UC steering arms, and the Harrop ones, does anyone have a pic of them, and whats the advantage of having them? Is it just extra bling for the under carriage?
I just bought my UC upper control arms today with the steering arms, god damn it!
Well, atleast I have a spare set now, just incase.
Whats the difference between the UC steering arms, and the Harrop ones, does anyone have a pic of them, and whats the advantage of having them? Is it just extra bling for the under carriage?
#131
Toranamat69
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Posted 04 July 2007 - 12:49 AM
You only want the Harrop steering arms if you are using HQ to HZ stub axles.
They lower the outer tierod about another 15mm or so. Purely a bumpsteer thing.
M@
They lower the outer tierod about another 15mm or so. Purely a bumpsteer thing.
M@
#132
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Posted 04 July 2007 - 01:20 AM
Thanks M@, obviously, that would apply to the CRS 2" lowered stub axle as well?
I kinda understand the idea of lowering the stub axle, fitting larger wheels and retaining the same spring height, but does it alter the ride height? As in the minimum clearance for regristration purposes?
I kinda understand the idea of lowering the stub axle, fitting larger wheels and retaining the same spring height, but does it alter the ride height? As in the minimum clearance for regristration purposes?
#133
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Posted 04 July 2007 - 06:14 PM
Only if you use the 2" lowered HQ stub axles on a Torana. If you are using the 2" lowered Torana stubs, you still use the UC steering arms.
Some of the CRS stubs actually have 2 sets of holes for the steering arms - but you try to get some sense out of CRS as to which stubs have the extra set of holes
If you have the CRS stubs with 2 sets of holes for the steering arms, the ones to use would be the ones which position the tie rod end the same height above the lower balljoint as the original Torana stubs have as that is the critical distance, not the actualy height the axle is compared to the tie rod end.
M@
Some of the CRS stubs actually have 2 sets of holes for the steering arms - but you try to get some sense out of CRS as to which stubs have the extra set of holes
If you have the CRS stubs with 2 sets of holes for the steering arms, the ones to use would be the ones which position the tie rod end the same height above the lower balljoint as the original Torana stubs have as that is the critical distance, not the actualy height the axle is compared to the tie rod end.
M@
#134
antelopeslr5000
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Posted 18 July 2007 - 06:20 AM
Here are a few pics of CRS drop stub axles. They were listed on eBay as UC Torana 2" drop stub axles.
As you can see in the photos they have 2 sets of mounting points for the steering arms (as M@ has already pointed out). They also have front and rear mounting points for the calipers.
I would say the lower set would be for the Torana steering arms (LX and UC excluding A9X).
Now, from my limited knowledge (more a guess really!) I'd say the upper steering arm mounting points would be used if you were using these drop stub axles in a HQ/HZ setup (or an A9X with A9X/Harrop steering arms). As the standard HQ/HZ stub axle sits higher than that of the standard Torana stub axle (excluding A9X), using these 2" Torana drop stub axles in a HQ/HZ setup will effectively reduce them to only roughly a 1" drop.
Does that make sense? I'm probably not right, just speculating really!
As you can see in the photos they have 2 sets of mounting points for the steering arms (as M@ has already pointed out). They also have front and rear mounting points for the calipers.
I would say the lower set would be for the Torana steering arms (LX and UC excluding A9X).
Now, from my limited knowledge (more a guess really!) I'd say the upper steering arm mounting points would be used if you were using these drop stub axles in a HQ/HZ setup (or an A9X with A9X/Harrop steering arms). As the standard HQ/HZ stub axle sits higher than that of the standard Torana stub axle (excluding A9X), using these 2" Torana drop stub axles in a HQ/HZ setup will effectively reduce them to only roughly a 1" drop.
Does that make sense? I'm probably not right, just speculating really!
#135
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Posted 18 July 2007 - 04:50 PM
^ you will see where the steering arms need to sit once the stubs are installed,
hope you running 18's plus as they look pretty low.
hope you running 18's plus as they look pretty low.
Edited by ALX76, 18 July 2007 - 04:56 PM.
#136
antelopeslr5000
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Posted 19 July 2007 - 01:37 AM
I didn't buy or bid on them. I just happen to stumble across them for sale on eBay when looking for other Torana parts.^ you will see where the steering arms need to sit once the stubs are installed,
hope you running 18's plus as they look pretty low.
#137
_LH 333_
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Posted 16 August 2007 - 01:36 PM
hello all an interstingly large amount of information here and im just wondering if someone could share some worldly wisdom on it all.
what are the best balljoints i can buy as ive broken one and had a nyloc nut come off the other
as both LCA's have now hit the road at about 40k ive bought a uc front end for a case of beer and was wondering if all i need to do is replace uppers lowers and steering arms from the uc front end onto the lh
and if i can just bolt it all together without any dramas or having to drill holes
cheers
GUY
what are the best balljoints i can buy as ive broken one and had a nyloc nut come off the other
as both LCA's have now hit the road at about 40k ive bought a uc front end for a case of beer and was wondering if all i need to do is replace uppers lowers and steering arms from the uc front end onto the lh
and if i can just bolt it all together without any dramas or having to drill holes
cheers
GUY
#138
Dangerous
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Posted 16 August 2007 - 05:23 PM
Yes, it will all bolt on, but since you have to drop the crossmember to get the upper wishbones in, I'd suggest reconditioning the entire UC front end and slotting the whole thing in, including the steering rack, if you have it.
You can get close to UC suspension specs with the stock LX upper arms, but personally I'd rather do the job properly. The UC crossmember should also have the shroud and mounts over the fibre steering coupling which only the V8 LH/LX front ends had, and it's a bonus too.
You might want to consider drilling a couple more upper wishbone mounting holes in a lower position than the UC (as per previous posts), just in case you decide to use them.
You can get close to UC suspension specs with the stock LX upper arms, but personally I'd rather do the job properly. The UC crossmember should also have the shroud and mounts over the fibre steering coupling which only the V8 LH/LX front ends had, and it's a bonus too.
You might want to consider drilling a couple more upper wishbone mounting holes in a lower position than the UC (as per previous posts), just in case you decide to use them.
#139
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Posted 17 August 2007 - 01:34 PM
Thanks Dangerous,
So you recomend i bolt the entire uc front end into it.
I dont see why not cos i have the whole unit so i may as well but the thing is what about these upper wishbone holes, i thought i could just get my nolathane bits off my current front end put them on the uc front end then bolt in without any suspension dramas its just ive got 17s and 300mm brakes so i dont really want anything hitting.
also balljoints whats a good brand and wehre can iget them
So you recomend i bolt the entire uc front end into it.
I dont see why not cos i have the whole unit so i may as well but the thing is what about these upper wishbone holes, i thought i could just get my nolathane bits off my current front end put them on the uc front end then bolt in without any suspension dramas its just ive got 17s and 300mm brakes so i dont really want anything hitting.
also balljoints whats a good brand and wehre can iget them
#140
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Posted 25 September 2007 - 05:31 PM
Harrop just upped the price on A9X arms to $341 a pair plus freight so thats nearly $400 now...If what M@ says in the last line is right above I think I can live with the UC arms.Also, aren't the studs a press fit? The tolerances would have to be very accurate right?
How big should the holes be? I wouldn't want the studs loose in there if they are not supposed to be.
Drill the holes to 7/16" - the bolts are splined like a wheel stud so you don't have to hold the head with a spanner to stop them turning when you are doing/undoing the nuts.
You can either give the bolts a tap on the head with a hammer and drift or just tighten them up and they will bite and pull through - I would still give them a tap on the head once done up just to make sure they are all the way in and don't loosen off at a later stage.
If I keep hooking in this arvo I should be able to update my cardomain site a bit later on and best of all I will actually have all of my baseline measurements done and I can get on with the PS conversion.
In case you all haven't reallised, it sucks doing repeat mesurements for every combo of front end parts for bumpsteer etc - hence why I keep putting them off - Oh well nearly there.
I am going to skip a few combo's but I am going to do the HQ stubs with LX and UC steering arms as that is renound for being a nasty setup (that is what I am currently doing when I get off the net and out of the aircon)
I have just done the Std A9X bumpsteer and it is the best of the standard Torana setups - only just slightly better than the UC bumpsteer but bugger all in it.
M@
R
Edited by rorym, 25 September 2007 - 05:32 PM.
#141
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Posted 26 March 2008 - 02:25 PM
Ok, after reading through all this, I have some questions I'd like to ask,
I'm awaitng a reply from CRS on the price of there drop stub axles, however, I did email a new company here, there website isn't quite up and running yet, but I got a price for their one for my Torana, $710 plus freight. JESUS! If the CRS ones are gonna be near that price then I need to know the following,
1. HX/HZ 1 Tonner, what price should I be looking at from the wreckers,
2. Do they give you a drop effect, someone said 1", is that correct,
3. What brake calipers can you mount to them, and,
4. Will a commodore hub just slide on, or do you have to redrill the rotors to suit commodore stud pattern?
Cheers
I'm awaitng a reply from CRS on the price of there drop stub axles, however, I did email a new company here, there website isn't quite up and running yet, but I got a price for their one for my Torana, $710 plus freight. JESUS! If the CRS ones are gonna be near that price then I need to know the following,
1. HX/HZ 1 Tonner, what price should I be looking at from the wreckers,
2. Do they give you a drop effect, someone said 1", is that correct,
3. What brake calipers can you mount to them, and,
4. Will a commodore hub just slide on, or do you have to redrill the rotors to suit commodore stud pattern?
Cheers
#142
TerrA LX
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Posted 26 March 2008 - 02:40 PM
1. hate quoting prices
2. Yes 1 inch over torana
3. anything that suites hq to wb
4. yes, but not sure if commy hub offset suites hq-z calipers
2. Yes 1 inch over torana
3. anything that suites hq to wb
4. yes, but not sure if commy hub offset suites hq-z calipers
#143
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Posted 26 March 2008 - 03:10 PM
Thanks ALX76, that sorts Q's 2 & 3 out, anyone else for Q's 1 & 4? I just want a rough guide on the price, so if the wally says, 500 nicker, I can tell him to go get f*&^%d!
#145
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Posted 26 March 2008 - 09:16 PM
Why are you so impatient? It's only been six hours.
#146
_Brewster_
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Posted 26 March 2008 - 09:18 PM
Coz I want to go to the wreckers tomorrow 
#147
_CHOPPER_
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Posted 26 March 2008 - 10:32 PM
I normally pay $25 each for stub axles. The Commodore disc will fit, however it is a couple of mm thinner than the HQ disc. This means the pads could ( in theory ) fall out when they get too low. As the DBA 015 is 6mm smaller in diameter than the DBA014 ( HQ disc ), you could wind up with the pad rubbing on the extreme edge of the disc. This wil probably cause hot spots on the disc and possible overheating and warping.
#148
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Posted 27 March 2008 - 08:46 AM
WOAH NELLY! Thanks for that info Chopper, a bit of an eye opener, can you get a HQ disc, that has commodore stud pattern on it?
#149
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Posted 27 March 2008 - 10:22 AM
Why don;\'t u start ur own thread, this is a sticky on RTS.
#150
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Posted 27 March 2008 - 01:18 PM
You need to buy DBA014U discs, get the centrebore machined down from 71.5mm to 69.5mm and get them studded to Commodore pattern. Only problem is, most off the shelf Comodore rims smaller than 17" will hit the top control arm with that setup.WOAH NELLY! Thanks for that info Chopper, a bit of an eye opener, can you get a HQ disc, that has commodore stud pattern on it?
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