So... getting back to the original topic, What is the optimum setup for an LH/LX? (Considering that money isn' t a consideration, different springs are readily available but A9X parts are too rare)
As Far as I can tell, it's a UC Front cross member and steering rack, with the UC UCA's lowered as much as possible, running somewhere between 0.5-1.5* neg camber and 2.75-3* pos castor (depending on your biceps, more if you're Arny!), with standard spring height to 1" (max) lowered springs.
Are the CRS 2" drop kits worth looking at with this setup?
Are the HZ Tonner, 7* KPI stubs worthwhile with this setup?
I'm gonna be runnin 17 x 7's with 215/45's and a set of Hoppers Stoppers 290mm discs (AU S2) on the front, will this affect anything in the setup stated above?
Is there a different formula I should be looking at for with this combo? I just wanna know what's best for track/hard street use???)!!!
I very much appreciate the time and effort you guys put into studying this stuff. If I had the equipment I'd be doing the same thing, but I don't, so, you know....
Cheers fellas!
Difference between LX RTS & UC RTS ???
Started by
antelopeslr5000
, Oct 05 2006 03:43 AM
197 replies to this topic
#153
StephenSLR
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Posted 23 November 2009 - 12:55 PM
A question regarding the drilling of new mounting holes 1 inch lower into the UC crossmember.
I don't know if I'm going overkill here but after drilling would it help to heat treat the holes - to reduce internal stresses to avoid cracks propagating later on?
s
I don't know if I'm going overkill here but after drilling would it help to heat treat the holes - to reduce internal stresses to avoid cracks propagating later on?
s
#154
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Posted 23 November 2009 - 03:54 PM
Yep, you're right.
Definate overkill.
Definate overkill.
#155
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Posted 26 November 2009 - 12:11 PM
Still on the drilling of the mounting holes.
What is a good way of getting the new holes in the right spot?
Keep in mind I am working on a spare X-member to completion while the current one will remain in the car until the day it is swapped.
I wouldn't want to drill then find out the holes are slightly out of alignment.
s
What is a good way of getting the new holes in the right spot?
Keep in mind I am working on a spare X-member to completion while the current one will remain in the car until the day it is swapped.
I wouldn't want to drill then find out the holes are slightly out of alignment.
s
#156
Posted 26 November 2009 - 02:12 PM
Get an upper arm arm pivot and clamp it to the cross member, use a large drill bit with a sharp point that fits tightly in the holes to mark/start the holes.
#157
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 26 November 2009 - 02:47 PM
What is a good way of getting the new holes in the right spot?
Someone on this forum made a drill jig that bolts to the existing holes. That is how I would do it.
#158
Posted 26 November 2009 - 05:03 PM
^ Even betterer!
Get the wheel alignment done again afterwards regardless
Get the wheel alignment done again afterwards regardless
#159
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Posted 26 November 2009 - 08:44 PM
That's how I did it (thanks to the person who put that idea up here).
What is a good way of getting the new holes in the right spot?
Someone on this forum made a drill jig that bolts to the existing holes. That is how I would do it.
Get a bit of 40mm x 10mm thick steel, mark it out square and true (check the diagonals for squareness), from memory the holes are 182mm apart and I put the new holes 25mm lower (seems to be the general consensus). Drill the holes 7/16" in the jig, bolt it up to the existing holes with 7/16" bolts and drill the new ones using a 7/16" drill. Uncle Bob!
#160
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Posted 02 December 2010 - 01:03 PM
Hi Guys would anyone have the part number for the uc steering arms.Bought some from the wrecker and suppose to be uc but got told that they werent.Any help would be great
Stuart
Stuart
#161
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#162
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Posted 02 December 2010 - 04:17 PM
Thanks Terra Lx I have got the right ones.
Stuart
Stuart
#163
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Posted 28 May 2011 - 12:25 PM
perhaps the diferent mounting points for the upper control arm was to change the roll centre,sounds like there is a bit more to suspensions than first thought
#164
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Posted 28 November 2012 - 09:35 PM
Hi Guys,
New member to the site and just wondering how do you tell the difference between LX and UC upper control arms,Do you tell by looking at the ball joint hole offset compared to where the bumpstop hole is or is there another way to id them,are there any pictures available?
I haven't seen one before but the mounting of a UC steering rack is solidly mounted so I was wondering how it was actually done, I know the LH/LX is mounted by bolts through the crossmember then they have,spacers,washers and rubber bushes to mount the rack,any pictures would be a great help.
Many thanks.
New member to the site and just wondering how do you tell the difference between LX and UC upper control arms,Do you tell by looking at the ball joint hole offset compared to where the bumpstop hole is or is there another way to id them,are there any pictures available?
I haven't seen one before but the mounting of a UC steering rack is solidly mounted so I was wondering how it was actually done, I know the LH/LX is mounted by bolts through the crossmember then they have,spacers,washers and rubber bushes to mount the rack,any pictures would be a great help.
Many thanks.
#165
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Posted 28 November 2012 - 09:52 PM
Oh and I forgot to ask how do you tell a UC front crossmember from a LX when it's not in the car and am I correct in saying that all UC'S were fitted with aluminium caliper's?
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
#166
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Posted 29 November 2012 - 11:43 AM
just quickly,
LH LX arms have the top ball joint central to the two inward mounting points. They are interchangble from left to right on the crossmember
UC arms have the ball joint offset. As such they cannot be interchangeble and the Right hand arms have an R stamped on them near the bump stop.
The steeering rack bodies are different on the UC's to allow for solid mounting, no difference to the crossmember
I don't believe the crossmembers from lh to uc are any different , other than the upper control arm mounting points, which go up and down across the 3 models causing great discussion.
A search of the suspensiuon threads will provide you with shitloads of pics.
hope this helps
LH LX arms have the top ball joint central to the two inward mounting points. They are interchangble from left to right on the crossmember
UC arms have the ball joint offset. As such they cannot be interchangeble and the Right hand arms have an R stamped on them near the bump stop.
The steeering rack bodies are different on the UC's to allow for solid mounting, no difference to the crossmember
I don't believe the crossmembers from lh to uc are any different , other than the upper control arm mounting points, which go up and down across the 3 models causing great discussion.
A search of the suspensiuon threads will provide you with shitloads of pics.
hope this helps
#167
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Posted 29 November 2012 - 06:18 PM
Thank you very much for your help A9X.
What would be a reasonable price to pay these days for a complete UC front crosmember?
Thank you.
What would be a reasonable price to pay these days for a complete UC front crosmember?
Thank you.
#168
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Posted 29 November 2012 - 08:09 PM
the only dear part should be the upper control arms, the rest is interchangeable across the range so has little value.
If you were in WA i could help you out, but the parts aren't worth the postage east.
don't forget to post pics.
oh, have a quick look at the these
Top one is an LX crossmember, UC top arms and LX lower arms
bottom one is UC crossmember , A9X top arms and LH lowers.
If you were in WA i could help you out, but the parts aren't worth the postage east.
don't forget to post pics.
oh, have a quick look at the these
Top one is an LX crossmember, UC top arms and LX lower arms
bottom one is UC crossmember , A9X top arms and LH lowers.
#169
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Posted 29 November 2012 - 08:52 PM
Thanks for the pictures A9X, There is a UC crossmember for sale on ebay complete less steering rack for $200 and another guy is selling just the UC upper arms for $300.
I have rebuilt my original LX front end some time ago and now after reading all the many suggested setups here I was thinking of changing my LX to UC Uppers with relocated mounting holes and also using the UC steering arms with a UC steering rack, what do you think?
Thanks again for your help.
I have rebuilt my original LX front end some time ago and now after reading all the many suggested setups here I was thinking of changing my LX to UC Uppers with relocated mounting holes and also using the UC steering arms with a UC steering rack, what do you think?
Thanks again for your help.
#170
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Posted 29 November 2012 - 08:53 PM
i will have a complete LX front end to sell roughly Feb next year.
#171
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Posted 29 November 2012 - 09:37 PM
sounds like a grand plan
don't forget some pics
don't forget some pics
#172
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Posted 20 April 2013 - 12:33 AM
Old topic I know but there is so much info here. Can someone put it plain and simple for me with my situation please.
I have a complete UC front end including the rack. I have an LH front end in my car ATM. So the only thing I have to do is lower the UCA mounting points lower and ill have a nice handling torrie ???
Thanks in advance
I have a complete UC front end including the rack. I have an LH front end in my car ATM. So the only thing I have to do is lower the UCA mounting points lower and ill have a nice handling torrie ???
Thanks in advance
#173
Posted 20 April 2013 - 07:37 AM
Simplest solution is to swap the UC rack, upper control arms and steering arms onto your existing front end.
To lower the upper control arm mounting holes I don't think there is enough meat in an original LH cross member because it has the holes halfway between UC (uppermost) and LX RTS (lowermost). If you wanted to do this then you'd have to drill the UC cross member and swap that too.
To lower the upper control arm mounting holes I don't think there is enough meat in an original LH cross member because it has the holes halfway between UC (uppermost) and LX RTS (lowermost). If you wanted to do this then you'd have to drill the UC cross member and swap that too.
#174
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Posted 20 April 2013 - 08:04 AM
My existing front end has been modified (cut) somewhat to fit the power steering ( which I'm doing away with) The plan was to bolt the rebuilt complete UC 'K' frame into my LH along with steering to get the best 'torana' steering besides the A9X of course. So this is my predicament :(
#175
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Posted 20 April 2013 - 09:19 AM
Why not sell your old P/S system complete with X-member and just fit the UC front end?
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