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308 heat


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#1 _Loki_

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Posted 08 January 2006 - 12:18 AM

For those guys with 308's +
Do you have any issues with heat through the floorpan?

Behind a 'warm' 308 Im running T350 (pacemaker tri-y 1 5/8th" primaries) to dual 2 1/4".
The issue is the heat in the floorwell literally makes my left foot become uncomfortable after awhile (and the rubber soles quite toasty :lol: )
Put the boot in for a second and you'll get a hotter heat wave for a few seconds before it cools down (to still uncomfortable levels!)

It's an LH, wondering if this is usual/normal?
Engine operating temps are ok.

Considered possible heat wrapping the exhaust but wasnt sure if retaining the heat into the exhaust would be good for it.

Cheers

-J.

#2 _Flamenco_

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Posted 08 January 2006 - 12:22 AM

No problems with my A9X in regards to heat... You have got underlay under the carpet and the floorpans are in good condition (ie: no rust holes etc)?

Other than those possibilities maybe your exhaust is too close to the floorpan - just guessing.

#3 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 08 January 2006 - 01:17 AM

perhaps a heat sheild between the exhaust and the floorpan with an air gap between both....

#4 LS1LX

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Posted 08 January 2006 - 06:39 AM

Get your extractors HPC coated, the silver shiny stuff.

Like said above check your underlay and floor pan for rust.

#5 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 08 January 2006 - 08:42 AM

Yup, mini heating system under the floor. Not so noticable in Winter, but very noticable on a hot day.

#6 _Loki_

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Posted 08 January 2006 - 09:21 PM

Hrm, thanks Yella, think that's what I was lookin for :)

There's no rust in the floorpan, only rust in the whole car is in the bottom right of the nosecone (and a small amount on the bottom bar that torries are notorious for).

I suppose I can deal with it, will be nice in winter :)

#7 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 08 January 2006 - 09:31 PM

Just wacked some 11mm silicone leads on today. If you want additional temperature, whack these buggers on ---> bigger fire in the holes.

Unfortunately, wrong connections for my VK Commie distributor. Will have to take them back and order some Yella ones I think!!!

#8 _QIKSLR_

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Posted 09 January 2006 - 02:19 PM

My mates got no carpet in the front of his LH atm. Hes got a worked 308 and trimatic and its unbarable. As in your foot gets so hot inside your shoe that you start stomping it like its on fire. Some good underlay like the factory stuff on the tunnel and HPC coated extractors will solve the problem.

#9 _oldschool_

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Posted 11 January 2006 - 09:37 PM

mr yella are u saying u could tell the diff of cabin temp by changing leads?

#10 _Oldn64_

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Posted 11 January 2006 - 10:12 PM

This is common in v8 and something that increases if you run your car lean or retarded. Make sure motor timed and running sweet as well as good insulation. if you wish more heat reduction grab some bitumen paint and through this on you floors tinwork (thickly) not only will this stop the panel vibrating like a can it will keep the noise down a little and give goods heat properties.

Cheers

PS: Both my VH SLE 5 L has this problem and my Galant (which only runs a 4 pot)

#11 _MYLJ_

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Posted 11 January 2006 - 10:17 PM

has anyone considered that fuel mixtures and the amount of spark advance may be causing the heat, the engine may be lean at certain points in the rev range, it may be under carb'd , the distributor advance curve may not match the cam, even the type of fuel being used, there are many things that could be generating the exhaust temp.Pretending its not there by hiding the heat with coatings/sheilds etc doesn't change the amount of heat being generated in the combustion chamber. If a mild engine combo is generating as much heat as described here, I would be running it on a chassis dyno with an exhaust temp probe to check the problem before spending money on the other stuff .
just a thought.

#12 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 11 January 2006 - 10:41 PM

It's not a problem, just the way it is. Running maximum advance possible, and carb is tuned optimally 14:1 by specialist carb guy. Different leads may be a misfire problem due to having the wrong connectors ATM (stray sparks in the bay) but that is being fixed up at the moment. Standard Eagle leads are 9mm and these are 11mm. Seems to make it punchier to drive.

Extractors just run about 10mm or so from the floorpan so just the way it is.

Struggler and I will dyno tune it one day, just don't ask which day.

Edited by Yella SLuR, 11 January 2006 - 10:43 PM.


#13 _TORANASS_

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Posted 12 January 2006 - 07:22 PM

I have had many 308 toranas and they were all cookers. My mate used to have an LH SLR with a 350 chev and extractors thru the inner gards and the heat was so bad it used to make your feet burn so much you ended up doing a tap dance like QIKSLR mentioned. was funny as. With no carpet your runners would melt to the floor of the car.. He ended up rapping the extractors with that thermal tape and it reduced it quite abit but it was still umberable in hot days.
Best solution would be heat rapp and a heat sheild and maybe even HPC coated pipes, plus heaps of insulation under the carpet..

Its just how toranas with 308's are..

John

#14 _Pete_

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Posted 12 January 2006 - 10:19 PM

Even my old LC 179HP that was lowered and the exhaust tucked in tight used to melt cassette tapes if they were left on the floor!!, my missus used to whinge and bitch about she couldnt take her shoes off in the car because her feet would burn....lol

I'd hate to see it with Twin Pipes underneath must be driving you insane on these Hot days we've got up here :tease:

#15 LXCHEV

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Posted 12 January 2006 - 11:12 PM

Cool topic this one (or should I say 'hot' topic?). Anyway, reminded me of something that happened to me a couple of years back. Long story short : I busted up some of the internal parts in my old dizzy (this is on a 383 chev), in the Easternats burnout comp. Managed to get it going again and started limping the car home (street cars get DRIVEN to events, not trailered!!! haha), but anyway, half way home I swear I could smell something burning. Pulled over once but couldn't see anything unusual, so continued on. Then the light smoke began. The original underfelt was slowly starting to burn, taking the carpet with it, I almost had a huge fire! In my mad panic, I emptied an entire fire extinguisher, and ripped the burning and smouldering underfelt out (and half the carpet) with my bare hands. It kept smouldering and catching again, shocking stuff the original factory underfelt.

Lesson for everyone when replacing underfelt - always use the new fire-retardant stuff (coloured stuff), and ditch the factory crap, just in case!!!

Oh yeah, obviously the cause of this whole drama was the timing was way off, making the car run extremely lean, heating the extractors up red hot, thus heating up the floorpan red hot, thus setting the underfelt on fire!

#16 Tiny

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Posted 13 January 2006 - 09:27 AM

My headers are HPC coated, i have the thick underfelt... AND ive painted the underbody with that tar paint... and i STILL get hot feet after a long drive!

OH.. and the tar paint stuff i got is a massive pain in the ass... it doesnt seem to want to dry, and it drips off at times.. i wonder if the heat is melting it in places ( can defintiel see where its shiny and still wet compaed to other places) or if the road grime is actually eating it away. I know that egreaser softens it, and bloody fish oil removes it!

Anyway.. bring back winter i say... the car runs better, more power AND ive got my free heater :)

Cheers!




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