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Azza's 304 LX

Started by _Azza_ , Feb 18 2007 03:06 PM

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#51 _Azza_

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Posted 22 March 2007 - 09:27 PM

Thanks mate. I feel like I am getting somewhere now..

#52 toryman76

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 08:51 AM

yeah definately getting somewhere! :D More then what i have achieved so far anyhow.

Just a question, how come you have removed the pollution canister? or are you relocating it to a not so obviuos spot? reason i ask is that i wouldnt mind removing the brackets and relocating mine somewhere else as i think that it looks ugly in the bay.

Cheers

Edited by toryman76, 23 March 2007 - 08:53 AM.

#53 Neils LX

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 09:55 AM

Hi
I was wondering where you put the body number. Does the rta let you move it because i would like to move mine.
chears neil

#54 _Azza_

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 03:16 PM

There was never one on there... I am asuming the car has been in an accident once before as there has been some previous repairs done to the front end. And looks like its been cut out previous.

Aparantly that body number does not count for anything as the panel can be removed or something. Not sure how true this is but thats what I've been told..

Worst comes to worst I'll just stamp it back in again..

You dont need to give a body number when registering a car in SA anyway.. My rego papers dont have it on there

#55 _Azza_

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 03:22 PM

yeah definately getting somewhere! :D More then what i have achieved so far anyhow.

Just a question, how come you have removed the pollution canister? or are you relocating it to a not so obviuos spot? reason i ask is that i wouldnt mind removing the brackets and relocating mine somewhere else as i think that it looks ugly in the bay.

Cheers

I think they look stupid where they were originally.. And the plan was not to have one period as I was going to keep this registered with my 253.

But I've now decided to go the legal way and get it through Regency so I cannot be hastled by coppers. And then I can still have insurance.

I think the VN ones have the pipes going into the bottom, so I will probably use one of them and mount it underneath the new battery tray, which will now be on the left hand side.

I'll work out something. Will let you know what I do, and how I did it.



Cheers

#56 Toranamat69

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 03:46 PM

I'd be stamping that number back in before you weld the repair bit back in or it will be pretty obvious you restamped it as you will buckle the panel as you stamp.

In Qld, they don't care about your compliance plates, they only care what that stamped number on the body says as it is so easy to change the compliance plates.

M@

#57 _Azza_

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 03:50 PM

It has been through regency before without it and has passed so I will probably just leave it.

Will have to ask Damo about it as he took it through regency.

It shouldn't buckle the panel, you dont have to hit it that hard. And where the number is meant to be is right on top of the chassis rail so it's strong as. Should be allright. Thanks for the tip though.

#58 _MRNOS_

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 03:56 PM

Good to see an old commodore being cut up to save a torana :spoton: :clap:

#59 Toranamat69

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 04:04 PM

I reckon you will buckle the panel as I have seen it done before (on Toranas) - you have to hit those punches damn hard to make a decent indent - we part number lots of parts at work and I have done some of them and I was very surprised how big a ding you have to use to form a proper number which won't disappear with the application of a thin layer of paint.

That blows me away that SA rego don't need a body number.

#60 _Azza_

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Posted 23 March 2007 - 04:09 PM

Yeh I couldnt believe it either..

Hmm might just get some punches and do it before I weld it in then, to be on the safe side..

The original numbers and letters are pretty big in size aren't they?


Cheers

#61 _Azza_

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Posted 26 March 2007 - 08:21 PM

Well well well.. Finished the other side today and it looks killa! Heaps happy with it. So stoked now as I have no more panel work to do in the engine bay!! Now starts the bogging and priming :D

Just gave it a coat of Kill Rust underneath to prevent any rust in the future..

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Ready for welding in...

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All done!!!!

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It was bloody hard to weld upside down... But I got there..

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What a handsome fella

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Cheers, can't wait to start painting it!

#62 toryman76

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Posted 26 March 2007 - 08:35 PM

VERY nicely done!! :clap: thats a really neat looking patch you have put there. hope you dont have too many hassles with the body number though. hate to see all the hard yards put in, get to the final hurdle and find it cant be regoed.

well done!

#63 _Azza_

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Posted 26 March 2007 - 08:45 PM

She's all ready rego'd without it so it shouldn't be a problem. If they ask me to stamp it in then no worries I'll do it :)

#64 toryman76

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Posted 26 March 2007 - 09:15 PM

AWESOME! :D

#65 _Azza_

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Posted 29 March 2007 - 07:39 PM

Started to pull apart the rest of the car today. Flares, spoiler, boot, door trims, lights etc.. Got most of it off, only have to take the doors and windows off now. Hopefully wont find anything bad in the window seals..

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#66 _svann_

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Posted 29 March 2007 - 10:07 PM

Nice metal work buddy keep it up!

#67 toryman76

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Posted 29 March 2007 - 10:15 PM

Hopefully wont find anything bad in the window seals..

azza for your sake i hope you are right... i thought exactly the same before i removed my rear screen and look what i found!! found some some of the worst rust in my car... and you couldnt even tell it was there before the screen came out.

your getting stuck straight in to it mate! good to see!! wish i had more time on my hands....

#68 toryman76

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Posted 29 March 2007 - 10:20 PM

oh also i just had a quick look over the repair you did of you bonnet mounts to compare what u have done, and do you think its necessary for me to weld both sides as you have done? also do you think it was a bad move to use the sections i cut out from what appeared to be a rust free bonnet mount from a spare shell? or should i have removed the backing plate as there still may have been rust behind there?

Cheers

#69 _Azza_

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Posted 29 March 2007 - 10:37 PM

Nah mate what you have done would be sweet. If there was rust behind the backing plate you would probably be able to notice it, as it would be trying to break through.

I did only weld the one side. It just looks like the other side has been welded aswell coz they are from my camera phone lol..

Just fill the back full of Wattle Kill Rust and you should be pretty right..

I have been thinking of filling the flap up with silicon also, as thats where the water and drt and shit gets trapped. It won't be seen so I think I will. Anything to prevent the baby from rusting.


Cheers for the feedback guys, appreciate it :D

#70 _Azza_

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Posted 29 March 2007 - 10:38 PM

I think there may be a bit of rust in the rear windscreen, as there are a couple of little bubbles around it.

Hope it isnt too bad :(

#71 _Holdenmad_

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Posted 30 March 2007 - 10:20 AM

Azza

lookin great dude.
I am keen to see what you do on the wheel arch damage, as I have to do this on my LH. I know hwo to call on when I get started on repairs :D

Keep up the good work :spoton:

#72 _Azza_

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Posted 30 March 2007 - 09:27 PM

Yeh mate I'll help you out for sure :)

Probably just gonna leave that guard as the flare covers it up..

Dodgey yes, but practical.. lol

#73 toryman76

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Posted 30 March 2007 - 09:45 PM

Nah mate what you have done would be sweet. If there was rust behind the backing plate you would probably be able to notice it, as it would be trying to break through.

I did only weld the one side. It just looks like the other side has been welded aswell coz they are from my camera phone lol..

Just fill the back full of Wattle Kill Rust and you should be pretty right..

I have been thinking of filling the flap up with silicon also, as thats where the water and drt and shit gets trapped. It won't be seen so I think I will. Anything to prevent the baby from rusting.


Cheers for the feedback guys, appreciate it :D

ok thanks for that!! yeah thats what i figured too but i got a bit worried for a second thinking that it may have been rusted and i just couldnt see it. but all should be good! :spoton:

yeah the old camera fones can be a bit like that sometimes!!

is this the stuff thats about 25-30 bux for a litre and you choose the colour you want? if so i will be getting some! i will also probably put some more sound deadener over it aswell. do you think its worth taking all the old deadener off and redoing it all then painting over it? or do you think it would be alright to just give it a good clean then a fresh coat of black over it? i am referring to the out side of the inner gaurd.

Yes i will do the same. i will fill that gap with lots of silicon as you will never see it and only you know its there! :D Is a cheap effective way to keep the moisture out of the double skin area.

#74 toryman76

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Posted 30 March 2007 - 10:54 PM

I think there may be a bit of rust in the rear windscreen, as there are a couple of little bubbles around it.

Hope it isnt too bad :(

before i removed mine, you could only see really small amounts of rust poking its ugly head out of the seal... THIS was only in one small area.... and heres how my sill turned out pretty bad... if you havent seen them in my thread there are plenty of pics on my photobucket site

http://s148.photobuc...man76/?start=20

still i hope for your sake that its not bad!! :spoton:

Cheers Leigh

#75 _Azza_

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Posted 31 March 2007 - 04:34 PM

Wattle kill rust is a clear sort of product and you just apint it over any rusty bits (after wire brushing the flakey bits off) and it will turn the rust glossy black and dryies paper thin..

It just converts rust into a useable metal again. Excellent stuff
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