Aussie Desert Coolers
#1 _jklumpp_
Posted 19 February 2007 - 12:53 PM
The LJ's back on the road, with it's nice fresh engine, but it's running a bit hot, so I need to look at some improved cooling.
I remember adds for Aussie Desert Coolers in Street Machine back when I used to read it, so had a look on the web and found they seem to be quite reasonably priced.
Does anyone here have any experience with them, or their products?
#2 _1uzbt1_
Posted 19 February 2007 - 02:06 PM
#3 _Torana308_
Posted 19 February 2007 - 08:12 PM
My first one was wrecked by crud that came out of the block and blocked the tubes. Norm spent about a week and a half trying to clean it before he said that it wasn't going to work well enough
So i bought a new one, he paid the freight to send both radiators back to me and didnt charge a cent for all the time he spent trying to clean the old one.
All in all i think they were very easy and helpful to deal with.
#4 _gtrtorana_
Posted 19 February 2007 - 08:43 PM
#5 _micksgtr_
Posted 19 February 2007 - 08:52 PM
cheers
#6 _salamanca LJ_
Posted 20 February 2007 - 08:02 AM
#7
Posted 20 February 2007 - 08:53 AM
#8
Posted 20 February 2007 - 12:03 PM
#9 _jklumpp_
Posted 20 February 2007 - 12:17 PM
They do offer a 3 year warranty on the radiators, so surely if there was major problems it would be fixed - paying for postage on a return seems to be standard policy with most places.... not that that makes it easy to accept.
#10
Posted 20 February 2007 - 02:52 PM
#11 _Drag lc_
Posted 20 February 2007 - 04:15 PM
Thanks Hayden
#12 _gtrtorana_
Posted 20 February 2007 - 04:45 PM
#13 _Monkey_
Posted 20 February 2007 - 05:00 PM
#14
Posted 20 February 2007 - 05:18 PM
#15 _jklumpp_
Posted 21 February 2007 - 12:31 PM
Stock standard 4 blade fan, and original (I assume) radiator.What cooling set up do you have now & is it in good working order?
Engine has just been fully rebuilt, including full chemical clean of block, so all should be A OK there. Radiator seems to be OK... flows no problem when flushed.
Temp slowly rises into the red zone over about 20min driving - nay traffic just hastens the process....hasn't boiled over yet, but I try not to keep driving when it gets that hot....once it has climbed, it's hard to get it to come down, even in clean air at normal speed in top gear....
#16 _sampearce_
Posted 21 February 2007 - 01:32 PM
1st time: didnt fit the car at all
2nd time: Fitted after some minor modification but leaked not long after
3rd time: leaked and decided to get it fixed elsewhere....the shop that fixed it said he wouldnt guarantee it lasting too long again because of how badly it was made and how shit the quality was.
This was a fair while ago so maybe they are better now as ive spoken to a few people with them and they have done the job
Edited by sampearce, 21 February 2007 - 01:34 PM.
#17 _Torana308_
Posted 25 February 2007 - 09:44 PM
#18 _v8slrtorana_
Posted 18 March 2007 - 02:03 PM
The brackets on the rad are to suit torana, so it dont fit his car.
There is loose solder in the top tank.
Open the rad cap, and one core is blocked with solder, i just wonder how many more cores are blocked.
I will never buy one.
:finger:
#19 _heppy_ss_76_
Posted 18 March 2007 - 03:56 PM
#20 _pipjones_
Posted 18 March 2007 - 06:15 PM
#21 _v8slrtorana_
Posted 18 March 2007 - 07:43 PM
Havent run the engine in the car yet.^ 4 core tripple flow will cut your actuall water flow in about half.
you may need to speed up your pump all else concitered.
Will keep that advice in mind if it has heating problems.
#22 _heppy_ss_76_
Posted 19 March 2007 - 12:28 PM
#23
Posted 19 March 2007 - 03:51 PM
#24 _rhysandhisLJ_
Posted 19 March 2007 - 04:14 PM
#25 _1uzbt1_
Posted 21 March 2007 - 11:00 AM
Now for normal rads say a torana one they are only made as a triple flow as with just about all(except with fittings on same side been the exception)and involve two baffle plates been welded in the tanks across header plates one in the top tank and one in the bottom.There are never made as a front to back desgin,as ther are two complicated,require more materials,take longer to make and have more chance of leaking between the baffles, and the thicker the core the less effeicent each row becomes.
Bacically with opposite fittngs(like torana and most rads)the water goes in the top fiiting down 1/3 of the core,across the bottom tank,up the middle third to the top,across then down the last third of the core and out the bottom fitting,therefore going through the core three times,triple pass.Exactly the same on cross flow ones but just done on the side
Edited by 1uzbt1, 21 March 2007 - 11:01 AM.
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