Jump to content


Photo

STEERING COLUMN MOD. UC Bottom Brg.


  • Please log in to reply
72 replies to this topic

#26 fuzzypumper

fuzzypumper

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 929 posts
  • Name:Archie
  • Location:Melbourne Eastern
  • Joined: 30-December 06

Posted 03 June 2007 - 11:09 PM

Hi,

I just finished mine using your method RODOMO with another mod.
I used a R16RS bearing which took only 5mins with coarse emery paper on shaft to fit make it but had to shim outsideof bearing in tube to make it atight fit.
I cut the useless section away.
Posted Image
Then cut the old nylon bearing bush in half and used it as the back support for new bearing by sliding it down the tube and screwed it in with 3 stainless steel screws from the outside.
Posted Image
Posted Image
Then cut new slots for the original wire clip to fasten bearing.
Posted Image
Some paint, all done.

#27 rodomo

rodomo

    To advertise here, call 13TORANA

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 18,021 posts
  • Name:R - O - B Dammit!
  • Location:Way out west of Melbourne Awstraylya
  • Joined: 10-December 05

Posted 03 June 2007 - 11:24 PM

Necessity is the mother of invention :spoton:

#28 _the gts_

_the gts_
  • Guests

Posted 08 October 2008 - 09:41 PM

Brilliant idea

a 6205 bearing has a 25mm bore (last two numbers x 5 e.g 05x5=25)

from the sound of it the torana steering shaft would be imperial 1" which is why the shaft needs to be machined slightly. if you were to get a machine shop to do this it would be a good idea to get them to machine a circlip groove to retain the bearing in the correct position.

the best bearing for an engine bay would be fully sealed with steel seals 6205-2Z, any cage would be ok
Probably better to go for a C3 as well because the difference between hot and cold engine bay could be considerable

2RS means it is fully sealed and has rubber seals and probably not the best for an engine bay.

#29 _greenmachine215_

_greenmachine215_
  • Guests

Posted 18 October 2008 - 10:17 PM

Ive just finished modding mine,

I took a slightly different approach to the mod again, Bought a new upper bearing $60bux
Then got out the vernier calipers and measured up the shaft and housing, went to CBC and they gave me the best they could, $30bux

I had to 'flare the end of the column housing, I chopped off the lower bit where the original single bearing nylon bearing was,

went to the exhaust shop and the minute they put pressure on the end of the housing she split open, fool.gif So went a different approach again,
We got a piece of off cut exhaust piping flared it to fit sung in the housing, Then where the bearing had to go we flared it until the bearing fit snug, Took it back to the workshop and welded it up, Cut 3 slots and used the original spring to lock the bearing in place,

All up this end up costing me 100bux even and my own labor
And the difference between before and after is excellent, the steering wheel just spins so free and easy
Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image

#30 _brett_32i_

_brett_32i_
  • Guests

Posted 02 January 2009 - 03:33 PM

i just performed this mod using the r16-2rs bearing, which is a perfect fit for the shaft - 1".

However, the od is 2", which is a loose fit in the column.

I would recommend anyone doing this mod to use the 6205 metric bearing, and machine the shaft to suit.

the OD of the 6205 is 52mm, whereas the r16 is 50.8mm.

at the same time i replaced the nolathane steering uni with another steel knuckle, excellent mod. well worth doing.

maybe we should get this thread stickied and maybe moved to the steering section??

#31 fuzzypumper

fuzzypumper

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 929 posts
  • Name:Archie
  • Location:Melbourne Eastern
  • Joined: 30-December 06

Posted 04 January 2009 - 12:35 PM

True Brett, I remember shimming the OD with galvanized steel strips to make it tight.

#32 _brett_32i_

_brett_32i_
  • Guests

Posted 11 January 2009 - 05:29 PM

has anyone found a suitable bearing for the top???

if i remember correctly, the dimensions were3/4" id 1 1/4" od and 1/2" wide.

maybe a needle roller would do the job??

#33 _youngy_11_

_youngy_11_
  • Guests

Posted 27 October 2010 - 05:57 PM

Bringing this thread back to life :) As I want to rebuild the full steering setup on the hatch in the new year. The mods to the bottom bearing don't look like too much work. As for the top bearing. Are they available?

Ryan

#34 S pack

S pack

    Scrivet Counter

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 15,659 posts
  • Name:Dave
  • Location:Luggage Point
  • Car:73 LJ
  • Joined: 25-January 10

Posted 27 October 2010 - 08:35 PM

Bringing this thread back to life :) As I want to rebuild the full steering setup on the hatch in the new year. The mods to the bottom bearing don't look like too much work. As for the top bearing. Are they available?

Ryan


Yep, Rares Spares have them.

#35 _DrFegg_

_DrFegg_
  • Guests

Posted 28 October 2010 - 11:28 AM


Bringing this thread back to life :) As I want to rebuild the full steering setup on the hatch in the new year. The mods to the bottom bearing don't look like too much work. As for the top bearing. Are they available?

Ryan


Yep, Rares Spares have them.


They seem to only sometimes have them and they dont list them online. Make sure you bring a chair with you, for when they tell you the price!!!
Over $100 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

#36 Toranamat69

Toranamat69

    Forum R&D Officer

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,117 posts
  • Location:Brisbane
  • Joined: 07-November 05

Posted 04 November 2010 - 11:15 PM

I have been meaning to do this mod for a while for extra room around the extractors and to make the column spin a bit easier.

Went to the bearing shop to get the 6205-2RS today and for the same price my bearing guy whipped out a 6205-2RS-1" special which has the metric OD 52mm(2.047") and the imperial 1" ID. Fits beautifully on the steering shaft and in the tube straight up with no linishing. The bearing is Koyo brand - apparently these specials are getting pretty common as the yanks slowly and begrudgingly change over to metric.

I changed my upper bearing years ago with a new one from holden and was never happy with it - there was always a couple of mm of slop. I recently changed to a new honey pot from an LH with original 36 year old bearing in it and it is superb. I'd want to see someone else with good results before I change to another new one of those buggers.

Matt

Edited by Toranamat69, 04 November 2010 - 11:22 PM.


#37 rodomo

rodomo

    To advertise here, call 13TORANA

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 18,021 posts
  • Name:R - O - B Dammit!
  • Location:Way out west of Melbourne Awstraylya
  • Joined: 10-December 05

Posted 07 November 2010 - 08:32 AM

Went to the bearing shop to get the 6205-2RS today and for the same price my bearing guy whipped out a 6205-2RS-1" special which has the metric OD 52mm(2.047") and the imperial 1" ID. Fits beautifully on the steering shaft and in the tube straight up with no linishing.

:clap: Thanks for sharing!

#38 MRLXSS

MRLXSS

    The Render Garage

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 12,400 posts
  • Name:Matt
  • Location:Upwey, Melbourne
  • Car:355 LX Hatchback, DeLorean DMC-12, LX SS Hatch, VY Cross8 Crewman
  • Joined: 09-November 05

Posted 05 June 2011 - 05:56 PM

I have been meaning to do this mod for a while for extra room around the extractors and to make the column spin a bit easier.

Went to the bearing shop to get the 6205-2RS today and for the same price my bearing guy whipped out a 6205-2RS-1" special which has the metric OD 52mm(2.047") and the imperial 1" ID. Fits beautifully on the steering shaft and in the tube straight up with no linishing. The bearing is Koyo brand - apparently these specials are getting pretty common as the yanks slowly and begrudgingly change over to metric.

I changed my upper bearing years ago with a new one from holden and was never happy with it - there was always a couple of mm of slop. I recently changed to a new honey pot from an LH with original 36 year old bearing in it and it is superb. I'd want to see someone else with good results before I change to another new one of those buggers.

Matt


Hey All,

Just reviving this thread... I was doing a few last checks to my steering before I drop the engine back in next weekend... I am not happy with the play in the bottom bearing. I remember reading this thread ages ago and knew it was a bit of a hassle to fit a new bearing.

But reading your reply Matt, it sounds like the problem may be solved!

Does this bearing straight out replace the bearing with the plastic bearing thingy

Posted Image
This one, but not cut in half of course....

Or do i need to do a few other mods while i'm at it?

Thanks again!

Matt

#39 Toranamat69

Toranamat69

    Forum R&D Officer

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,117 posts
  • Location:Brisbane
  • Joined: 07-November 05

Posted 05 June 2011 - 11:47 PM

G'day MRLXSS,

That bearing I mentioned above means you don't have to linish anything off the steering shaft - it is a nice snug fit straight up and the outside fits the housing nicely.

You still need either that chopped plastic bush or some other means to stop the bearing running up inside the column - someone else on here has also done it with 3 bolts with nuts on the inside at 120 degrees apart that the bearing sits against instead of the plastic bush - then you need the slots for the reatining clip as per above posts to stop the bearing dropping out the bottom.

Matt

#40 MRLXSS

MRLXSS

    The Render Garage

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 12,400 posts
  • Name:Matt
  • Location:Upwey, Melbourne
  • Car:355 LX Hatchback, DeLorean DMC-12, LX SS Hatch, VY Cross8 Crewman
  • Joined: 09-November 05

Posted 06 June 2011 - 09:13 AM

Thanks Matt!

That all makes sense to me! You're a legend! Thanks for your reply.

#41 LX2DR

LX2DR

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,763 posts
  • Name:Paul
  • Location:Melbourne
  • Joined: 21-November 05
Garage View Garage

Posted 08 November 2011 - 04:50 PM

Just to open this bottom bearing thread again, i started looking at mine the other day and after 3 variations think i have a good solution.
1st was just a bush with good bearing quality material, nahhh to crappy!!
Posted Image

2nd was with a needle bearing, nahhh not sealed enough.
Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image

3rd is the needle bearing with seals either side and 2 inner rings so the seals work all the time and the shaft can move up and down and not cause drama.
Posted Image
Posted Image

I havent got the list of part numbers with me as i type this, will add them tomorrow.
The bearing is a Torrington imperial bearing and the seals are also imperial so havent touched the shaft.
1st time ive machined in imperial for years, was interesting on a metric lathe.

Its so handy to have a lathe available for this stuff :spoton:

#42 rodomo

rodomo

    To advertise here, call 13TORANA

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 18,021 posts
  • Name:R - O - B Dammit!
  • Location:Way out west of Melbourne Awstraylya
  • Joined: 10-December 05

Posted 08 November 2011 - 05:13 PM

Sum blokes r just a bit too cleva :)
How many hundred crossmember insulators did you run up while you had the lathe running? :huh:

#43 LX2DR

LX2DR

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,763 posts
  • Name:Paul
  • Location:Melbourne
  • Joined: 21-November 05
Garage View Garage

Posted 08 November 2011 - 05:30 PM

None, the ones i made 2 years ago are still perfect, had them off yesterday to replace the the trans mount.

#44 Toranamat69

Toranamat69

    Forum R&D Officer

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,117 posts
  • Location:Brisbane
  • Joined: 07-November 05

Posted 08 November 2011 - 06:15 PM

I work on the KISS principle.

You forgot to cut off the useless dead bit on the end of the column outter tube :-)

#45 _CHOPPER_

_CHOPPER_
  • Guests

Posted 08 November 2011 - 07:59 PM

The "useless dead bit on the end of the column outter tube" is commonly known as the driver.

#46 LX2DR

LX2DR

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,763 posts
  • Name:Paul
  • Location:Melbourne
  • Joined: 21-November 05
Garage View Garage

Posted 08 November 2011 - 08:03 PM

Thanks "CHOP" ive always been nice to you :shoot: :stirpot:

#47 Toranamat69

Toranamat69

    Forum R&D Officer

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,117 posts
  • Location:Brisbane
  • Joined: 07-November 05

Posted 08 November 2011 - 08:17 PM

What sort of plastic is that you used? I like machining things like that out of plastics and alloy so always interrested in how they are done and what materials are used.

#48 LX2DR

LX2DR

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,763 posts
  • Name:Paul
  • Location:Melbourne
  • Joined: 21-November 05
Garage View Garage

Posted 09 November 2011 - 09:30 PM

Finished and ready to be swapped in.
Bearing and seal numbers are:-
2 x TC12056 seal, 1.250" id x 1.687" od x 0.250" wide (1-1/4" x 1-11/16" x 1/4") ($6.00ea)
2 x P162016 Inner ring (1st one cost me $88.00, freaked!!, guy did me a favor on the 2nd, $30.00)
1 x S2016 Needle ring ($29.00)
Only problem is the area that the old bearing was, has worn down the shaft and the ring was loose, so had to locktite the end one in place.
Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image

Edited by LX2DR, 09 November 2011 - 09:31 PM.


#49 LX2DR

LX2DR

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,763 posts
  • Name:Paul
  • Location:Melbourne
  • Joined: 21-November 05
Garage View Garage

Posted 10 November 2011 - 10:05 PM

Installed
Posted Image

#50 _Torrie_Man_

_Torrie_Man_
  • Guests

Posted 11 November 2011 - 05:36 PM

Has any one bought the Rare Spares lower column bearing? What do you think of it?




1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users