STEERING COLUMN MOD. UC Bottom Brg.
#26
Posted 03 June 2007 - 11:09 PM
I just finished mine using your method RODOMO with another mod.
I used a R16RS bearing which took only 5mins with coarse emery paper on shaft to fit make it but had to shim outsideof bearing in tube to make it atight fit.
I cut the useless section away.
Then cut the old nylon bearing bush in half and used it as the back support for new bearing by sliding it down the tube and screwed it in with 3 stainless steel screws from the outside.
Then cut new slots for the original wire clip to fasten bearing.
Some paint, all done.
#27
Posted 03 June 2007 - 11:24 PM
#28 _the gts_
Posted 08 October 2008 - 09:41 PM
a 6205 bearing has a 25mm bore (last two numbers x 5 e.g 05x5=25)
from the sound of it the torana steering shaft would be imperial 1" which is why the shaft needs to be machined slightly. if you were to get a machine shop to do this it would be a good idea to get them to machine a circlip groove to retain the bearing in the correct position.
the best bearing for an engine bay would be fully sealed with steel seals 6205-2Z, any cage would be ok
Probably better to go for a C3 as well because the difference between hot and cold engine bay could be considerable
2RS means it is fully sealed and has rubber seals and probably not the best for an engine bay.
#29 _greenmachine215_
Posted 18 October 2008 - 10:17 PM
I took a slightly different approach to the mod again, Bought a new upper bearing $60bux
Then got out the vernier calipers and measured up the shaft and housing, went to CBC and they gave me the best they could, $30bux
I had to 'flare the end of the column housing, I chopped off the lower bit where the original single bearing nylon bearing was,
went to the exhaust shop and the minute they put pressure on the end of the housing she split open, fool.gif So went a different approach again,
We got a piece of off cut exhaust piping flared it to fit sung in the housing, Then where the bearing had to go we flared it until the bearing fit snug, Took it back to the workshop and welded it up, Cut 3 slots and used the original spring to lock the bearing in place,
All up this end up costing me 100bux even and my own labor
And the difference between before and after is excellent, the steering wheel just spins so free and easy
#30 _brett_32i_
Posted 02 January 2009 - 03:33 PM
However, the od is 2", which is a loose fit in the column.
I would recommend anyone doing this mod to use the 6205 metric bearing, and machine the shaft to suit.
the OD of the 6205 is 52mm, whereas the r16 is 50.8mm.
at the same time i replaced the nolathane steering uni with another steel knuckle, excellent mod. well worth doing.
maybe we should get this thread stickied and maybe moved to the steering section??
#31
Posted 04 January 2009 - 12:35 PM
#32 _brett_32i_
Posted 11 January 2009 - 05:29 PM
if i remember correctly, the dimensions were3/4" id 1 1/4" od and 1/2" wide.
maybe a needle roller would do the job??
#33 _youngy_11_
Posted 27 October 2010 - 05:57 PM
Ryan
#34
Posted 27 October 2010 - 08:35 PM
Bringing this thread back to life As I want to rebuild the full steering setup on the hatch in the new year. The mods to the bottom bearing don't look like too much work. As for the top bearing. Are they available?
Ryan
Yep, Rares Spares have them.
#35 _DrFegg_
Posted 28 October 2010 - 11:28 AM
Bringing this thread back to life As I want to rebuild the full steering setup on the hatch in the new year. The mods to the bottom bearing don't look like too much work. As for the top bearing. Are they available?
Ryan
Yep, Rares Spares have them.
They seem to only sometimes have them and they dont list them online. Make sure you bring a chair with you, for when they tell you the price!!!
Over $100 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#36
Posted 04 November 2010 - 11:15 PM
Went to the bearing shop to get the 6205-2RS today and for the same price my bearing guy whipped out a 6205-2RS-1" special which has the metric OD 52mm(2.047") and the imperial 1" ID. Fits beautifully on the steering shaft and in the tube straight up with no linishing. The bearing is Koyo brand - apparently these specials are getting pretty common as the yanks slowly and begrudgingly change over to metric.
I changed my upper bearing years ago with a new one from holden and was never happy with it - there was always a couple of mm of slop. I recently changed to a new honey pot from an LH with original 36 year old bearing in it and it is superb. I'd want to see someone else with good results before I change to another new one of those buggers.
Matt
Edited by Toranamat69, 04 November 2010 - 11:22 PM.
#37
Posted 07 November 2010 - 08:32 AM
Thanks for sharing!Went to the bearing shop to get the 6205-2RS today and for the same price my bearing guy whipped out a 6205-2RS-1" special which has the metric OD 52mm(2.047") and the imperial 1" ID. Fits beautifully on the steering shaft and in the tube straight up with no linishing.
#38
Posted 05 June 2011 - 05:56 PM
I have been meaning to do this mod for a while for extra room around the extractors and to make the column spin a bit easier.
Went to the bearing shop to get the 6205-2RS today and for the same price my bearing guy whipped out a 6205-2RS-1" special which has the metric OD 52mm(2.047") and the imperial 1" ID. Fits beautifully on the steering shaft and in the tube straight up with no linishing. The bearing is Koyo brand - apparently these specials are getting pretty common as the yanks slowly and begrudgingly change over to metric.
I changed my upper bearing years ago with a new one from holden and was never happy with it - there was always a couple of mm of slop. I recently changed to a new honey pot from an LH with original 36 year old bearing in it and it is superb. I'd want to see someone else with good results before I change to another new one of those buggers.
Matt
Hey All,
Just reviving this thread... I was doing a few last checks to my steering before I drop the engine back in next weekend... I am not happy with the play in the bottom bearing. I remember reading this thread ages ago and knew it was a bit of a hassle to fit a new bearing.
But reading your reply Matt, it sounds like the problem may be solved!
Does this bearing straight out replace the bearing with the plastic bearing thingy
This one, but not cut in half of course....
Or do i need to do a few other mods while i'm at it?
Thanks again!
Matt
#39
Posted 05 June 2011 - 11:47 PM
That bearing I mentioned above means you don't have to linish anything off the steering shaft - it is a nice snug fit straight up and the outside fits the housing nicely.
You still need either that chopped plastic bush or some other means to stop the bearing running up inside the column - someone else on here has also done it with 3 bolts with nuts on the inside at 120 degrees apart that the bearing sits against instead of the plastic bush - then you need the slots for the reatining clip as per above posts to stop the bearing dropping out the bottom.
Matt
#40
Posted 06 June 2011 - 09:13 AM
That all makes sense to me! You're a legend! Thanks for your reply.
#41
Posted 08 November 2011 - 04:50 PM
1st was just a bush with good bearing quality material, nahhh to crappy!!
2nd was with a needle bearing, nahhh not sealed enough.
3rd is the needle bearing with seals either side and 2 inner rings so the seals work all the time and the shaft can move up and down and not cause drama.
I havent got the list of part numbers with me as i type this, will add them tomorrow.
The bearing is a Torrington imperial bearing and the seals are also imperial so havent touched the shaft.
1st time ive machined in imperial for years, was interesting on a metric lathe.
Its so handy to have a lathe available for this stuff
#42
Posted 08 November 2011 - 05:13 PM
How many hundred crossmember insulators did you run up while you had the lathe running?
#43
Posted 08 November 2011 - 05:30 PM
#44
Posted 08 November 2011 - 06:15 PM
You forgot to cut off the useless dead bit on the end of the column outter tube :-)
#45 _CHOPPER_
Posted 08 November 2011 - 07:59 PM
#46
Posted 08 November 2011 - 08:03 PM
#47
Posted 08 November 2011 - 08:17 PM
#48
Posted 09 November 2011 - 09:30 PM
Bearing and seal numbers are:-
2 x TC12056 seal, 1.250" id x 1.687" od x 0.250" wide (1-1/4" x 1-11/16" x 1/4") ($6.00ea)
2 x P162016 Inner ring (1st one cost me $88.00, freaked!!, guy did me a favor on the 2nd, $30.00)
1 x S2016 Needle ring ($29.00)
Only problem is the area that the old bearing was, has worn down the shaft and the ring was loose, so had to locktite the end one in place.
Edited by LX2DR, 09 November 2011 - 09:31 PM.
#49
Posted 10 November 2011 - 10:05 PM
#50 _Torrie_Man_
Posted 11 November 2011 - 05:36 PM
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