72 replies to this topic

[fuzzypumper]

Hi,

I just finished mine using your method RODOMO with another mod.
I used a R16RS bearing which took only 5mins with coarse emery paper on shaft to fit make it but had to shim outsideof bearing in tube to make it atight fit.
I cut the useless section away.

Then cut the old nylon bearing bush in half and used it as the back support for new bearing by sliding it down the tube and screwed it in with 3 stainless steel screws from the outside.


Then cut new slots for the original wire clip to fasten bearing.

Some paint, all done.

[rodomo]

Necessity is the mother of invention

[fuzzypumper]

True Brett, I remember shimming the OD with galvanized steel strips to make it tight.

[S pack]

Bringing this thread back to life As I want to rebuild the full steering setup on the hatch in the new year. The mods to the bottom bearing don't look like too much work. As for the top bearing. Are they available?

Ryan

Yep, Rares Spares have them.

[Toranamat69]

I have been meaning to do this mod for a while for extra room around the extractors and to make the column spin a bit easier.

Went to the bearing shop to get the 6205-2RS today and for the same price my bearing guy whipped out a 6205-2RS-1" special which has the metric OD 52mm(2.047") and the imperial 1" ID. Fits beautifully on the steering shaft and in the tube straight up with no linishing. The bearing is Koyo brand - apparently these specials are getting pretty common as the yanks slowly and begrudgingly change over to metric.

I changed my upper bearing years ago with a new one from holden and was never happy with it - there was always a couple of mm of slop. I recently changed to a new honey pot from an LH with original 36 year old bearing in it and it is superb. I'd want to see someone else with good results before I change to another new one of those buggers.

Matt

Edited by Toranamat69, 04 November 2010 - 11:22 PM.

[rodomo]

Went to the bearing shop to get the 6205-2RS today and for the same price my bearing guy whipped out a 6205-2RS-1" special which has the metric OD 52mm(2.047") and the imperial 1" ID. Fits beautifully on the steering shaft and in the tube straight up with no linishing.

Thanks for sharing!

[MRLXSS]

I have been meaning to do this mod for a while for extra room around the extractors and to make the column spin a bit easier.

Went to the bearing shop to get the 6205-2RS today and for the same price my bearing guy whipped out a 6205-2RS-1" special which has the metric OD 52mm(2.047") and the imperial 1" ID. Fits beautifully on the steering shaft and in the tube straight up with no linishing. The bearing is Koyo brand - apparently these specials are getting pretty common as the yanks slowly and begrudgingly change over to metric.

I changed my upper bearing years ago with a new one from holden and was never happy with it - there was always a couple of mm of slop. I recently changed to a new honey pot from an LH with original 36 year old bearing in it and it is superb. I'd want to see someone else with good results before I change to another new one of those buggers.

Matt

Hey All,

Just reviving this thread... I was doing a few last checks to my steering before I drop the engine back in next weekend... I am not happy with the play in the bottom bearing. I remember reading this thread ages ago and knew it was a bit of a hassle to fit a new bearing.

But reading your reply Matt, it sounds like the problem may be solved!

Does this bearing straight out replace the bearing with the plastic bearing thingy


This one, but not cut in half of course....

Or do i need to do a few other mods while i'm at it?

Thanks again!

Matt

[Toranamat69]

G'day MRLXSS,

That bearing I mentioned above means you don't have to linish anything off the steering shaft - it is a nice snug fit straight up and the outside fits the housing nicely.

You still need either that chopped plastic bush or some other means to stop the bearing running up inside the column - someone else on here has also done it with 3 bolts with nuts on the inside at 120 degrees apart that the bearing sits against instead of the plastic bush - then you need the slots for the reatining clip as per above posts to stop the bearing dropping out the bottom.

Matt

[MRLXSS]

Thanks Matt!

That all makes sense to me! You're a legend! Thanks for your reply.

[LX2DR]

Just to open this bottom bearing thread again, i started looking at mine the other day and after 3 variations think i have a good solution.
1st was just a bush with good bearing quality material, nahhh to crappy!!


2nd was with a needle bearing, nahhh not sealed enough.





3rd is the needle bearing with seals either side and 2 inner rings so the seals work all the time and the shaft can move up and down and not cause drama.



I havent got the list of part numbers with me as i type this, will add them tomorrow.
The bearing is a Torrington imperial bearing and the seals are also imperial so havent touched the shaft.
1st time ive machined in imperial for years, was interesting on a metric lathe.

Its so handy to have a lathe available for this stuff

[rodomo]

Sum blokes r just a bit too cleva
How many hundred crossmember insulators did you run up while you had the lathe running?

[LX2DR]

None, the ones i made 2 years ago are still perfect, had them off yesterday to replace the the trans mount.

[Toranamat69]

I work on the KISS principle.

You forgot to cut off the useless dead bit on the end of the column outter tube :-)

[LX2DR]

Thanks "CHOP" ive always been nice to you

[Toranamat69]

What sort of plastic is that you used? I like machining things like that out of plastics and alloy so always interrested in how they are done and what materials are used.

[LX2DR]

Finished and ready to be swapped in.
Bearing and seal numbers are:-
2 x TC12056 seal, 1.250" id x 1.687" od x 0.250" wide (1-1/4" x 1-11/16" x 1/4") ($6.00ea)
2 x P162016 Inner ring (1st one cost me $88.00, freaked!!, guy did me a favor on the 2nd, $30.00)
1 x S2016 Needle ring ($29.00)
Only problem is the area that the old bearing was, has worn down the shaft and the ring was loose, so had to locktite the end one in place.

Edited by LX2DR, 09 November 2011 - 09:31 PM.

[LX2DR]

Installed