Jump to content


Photo

STEERING COLUMN MOD. UC Bottom Brg.


  • Please log in to reply
72 replies to this topic

#51 LX2DR

LX2DR

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,763 posts
  • Name:Paul
  • Location:Melbourne
  • Joined: 21-November 05
Garage View Garage

Posted 11 November 2011 - 08:22 PM

Just went for a drive with all new parts installed and after frontend reco"ed as well.

"BLOODY BEAUTIFUL"

Worth all the hard work and dicking around chasing bearings and stuff.

Very happy :driving:

#52 hanra

hanra

    Oh My, Don't you post alot

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 10,909 posts
  • Name:Brad
  • Location:Farrrrrr North Qld
  • Car:1975 LH SL/R 5000, 1967 Morris Cooper S, E36 BMW, Toyota Corolla, Isuzu DMax
  • Joined: 24-March 11

Posted 23 June 2012 - 08:07 PM

Thread revival!!!!

Where are the ball bearings actually located in the original bearing???

Under this lip at the top? Or down the side???

Posted Image

Edited by hanra, 23 June 2012 - 08:08 PM.


#53 hanra

hanra

    Oh My, Don't you post alot

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 10,909 posts
  • Name:Brad
  • Location:Farrrrrr North Qld
  • Car:1975 LH SL/R 5000, 1967 Morris Cooper S, E36 BMW, Toyota Corolla, Isuzu DMax
  • Joined: 24-March 11

Posted 24 June 2012 - 08:17 AM

So I dunno if I'm doing something wrong here... But this took me all of 2mins..

I just popped the old bearing out of the plastic section of the lower bearing assy, slid it into place, then slipped the new real bearing into position and fitted the retaining clip. I "just" cant get one tag of the clip into place but I'll sort that.

I'm also going to source the better 6205-2RS-1 bearing. As the one I have has a rubber dust seal, does the other one have a metal seal?

Can anyone see why this wouldn't work what ive done? Seemed extremely simple... I know I'm simple but most things I do aren't simple.

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

#54 S pack

S pack

    Scrivet Counter

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 15,638 posts
  • Name:Dave
  • Location:Luggage Point
  • Car:73 LJ
  • Joined: 25-January 10

Posted 24 June 2012 - 08:34 AM

Brad, it looks like the two ribs down the side of the plastic bearing holder need a tiny bit removed off them at the bottom to allow the holder to sit a little lower in the column tube. Then the wire retaining clip should slip into place.

#55 A9X

A9X

    A fortunate run

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,024 posts
  • Name:Welby
  • Location:Perth
  • Joined: 09-November 05
Garage View Garage

Posted 24 June 2012 - 11:36 AM

what bearing number is that Brad?

#56 hanra

hanra

    Oh My, Don't you post alot

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 10,909 posts
  • Name:Brad
  • Location:Farrrrrr North Qld
  • Car:1975 LH SL/R 5000, 1967 Morris Cooper S, E36 BMW, Toyota Corolla, Isuzu DMax
  • Joined: 24-March 11

Posted 24 June 2012 - 11:40 AM

Yeah I was just going to do a very small amount of trimming to help the clip go in.

Bearing # 6205VVC4E NS7S

The ID is just a fraction to small for the shaft but I believe bearing # 6205-2RS-1 is a perfect fit. I am concerned about a rubber/plastic dust seal in an engine bay, a metal one would be perfect.

Edited by hanra, 24 June 2012 - 11:41 AM.


#57 76lxhatch

76lxhatch

    That was easy!

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,192 posts
  • Location:Unzud
  • Car:SS
  • Joined: 04-August 08
Garage View Garage

Posted 24 June 2012 - 12:50 PM

The seal will be fine in the engine bay, good to keep the crap out of the bearing so it lasts forever. Normally they are rubber over steel, you can just carefully pop it out with a small screwdriver if you want to check it (will pop straight back in)

#58 A9X

A9X

    A fortunate run

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,024 posts
  • Name:Welby
  • Location:Perth
  • Joined: 09-November 05
Garage View Garage

Posted 24 June 2012 - 12:57 PM

ta

#59 hanra

hanra

    Oh My, Don't you post alot

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 10,909 posts
  • Name:Brad
  • Location:Farrrrrr North Qld
  • Car:1975 LH SL/R 5000, 1967 Morris Cooper S, E36 BMW, Toyota Corolla, Isuzu DMax
  • Joined: 24-March 11

Posted 24 June 2012 - 01:37 PM

Well this bearing still requires the shaft to be skimed down a fraction to allow fitment. The other number listed has the correct 1inch ID. So ill grab that one.

#60 dattoman

dattoman

    Do I feel lucky? Well, do ya, punk?

  • Administrators
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 16,484 posts
  • Name:Neil
  • Location:Perth Western Australia
  • Car:LX SS , 76 Cadillac , 3 x dattos
  • Joined: 04-February 07

Posted 24 June 2012 - 02:01 PM

6205 is the bearing size
2RS = 2 rubber seals

There is a 6205 with a 1" centre hole instead of the regular 25mm too

#61 ls2lxhatch

ls2lxhatch

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,332 posts
  • Location:Perth
  • Car:LX Hatch
  • Joined: 29-May 06

Posted 24 June 2012 - 03:08 PM

The part number given by Toranamatt is a 6205-2RS-1 ( 1" centre ) . The bearing was still a bit tight on my steering shaft so I used a dremel and a brake cylinder hone to enlarge the bearing.

#62 hanra

hanra

    Oh My, Don't you post alot

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 10,909 posts
  • Name:Brad
  • Location:Farrrrrr North Qld
  • Car:1975 LH SL/R 5000, 1967 Morris Cooper S, E36 BMW, Toyota Corolla, Isuzu DMax
  • Joined: 24-March 11

Posted 24 June 2012 - 04:51 PM

What type of dust seal did that one use?

#63 ls2lxhatch

ls2lxhatch

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,332 posts
  • Location:Perth
  • Car:LX Hatch
  • Joined: 29-May 06

Posted 24 June 2012 - 08:49 PM

It is my understanding that 2RS means two rubber seals. ZZ is steel seals.

If you want steel then 6025-ZZ-1 should be the part number. On the website below there is a C3 loose fit option which could be worth a try.
http://bearingsdirec...t_detail&p=3518

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 24 June 2012 - 08:54 PM.


#64 hanra

hanra

    Oh My, Don't you post alot

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 10,909 posts
  • Name:Brad
  • Location:Farrrrrr North Qld
  • Car:1975 LH SL/R 5000, 1967 Morris Cooper S, E36 BMW, Toyota Corolla, Isuzu DMax
  • Joined: 24-March 11

Posted 25 June 2012 - 08:48 AM

Interesting that loose fit one. I'll look into that. Might save any linishing of the steering shaft.

#65 hanra

hanra

    Oh My, Don't you post alot

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 10,909 posts
  • Name:Brad
  • Location:Farrrrrr North Qld
  • Car:1975 LH SL/R 5000, 1967 Morris Cooper S, E36 BMW, Toyota Corolla, Isuzu DMax
  • Joined: 24-March 11

Posted 25 June 2012 - 10:54 AM

Couldn't find the ZZ variant anywhere... The bearing shop fella reckons the loose means internally in the bearings, gives em space if they get got so they don't bind up when they expand.

#66 ls2lxhatch

ls2lxhatch

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,332 posts
  • Location:Perth
  • Car:LX Hatch
  • Joined: 29-May 06

Posted 25 June 2012 - 11:28 AM

The loose fit description makes more sense now. I guess it was wishful thinking on my part that it would mean loose fit on a 1" shaft.

You should be able to find a ZZ version, you may have to try a couple of suppliers. I think the rubber seals will be fine, even if the rubber seal was to suffer from heat I think the bearing would still last forever.

#67 hanra

hanra

    Oh My, Don't you post alot

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 10,909 posts
  • Name:Brad
  • Location:Farrrrrr North Qld
  • Car:1975 LH SL/R 5000, 1967 Morris Cooper S, E36 BMW, Toyota Corolla, Isuzu DMax
  • Joined: 24-March 11

Posted 25 June 2012 - 11:45 AM

I've exhausted all options around town. No one lists the ZZ version even. I'd have to order it online I guess. But they said those rubber seals are good up to around 100deg. I'll keep a close eye on it and see how it goes. Only $13 for this one.

#68 hanra

hanra

    Oh My, Don't you post alot

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 10,909 posts
  • Name:Brad
  • Location:Farrrrrr North Qld
  • Car:1975 LH SL/R 5000, 1967 Morris Cooper S, E36 BMW, Toyota Corolla, Isuzu DMax
  • Joined: 24-March 11

Posted 25 June 2012 - 06:09 PM

Nice

Posted Image

#69 hanra

hanra

    Oh My, Don't you post alot

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 10,909 posts
  • Name:Brad
  • Location:Farrrrrr North Qld
  • Car:1975 LH SL/R 5000, 1967 Morris Cooper S, E36 BMW, Toyota Corolla, Isuzu DMax
  • Joined: 24-March 11

Posted 25 June 2012 - 09:17 PM

This is the bearing I ended up using :

Posted Image


This bearing needs the shaft skimmed down for it to have fitted.

Posted Image

#70 dattoman

dattoman

    Do I feel lucky? Well, do ya, punk?

  • Administrators
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 16,484 posts
  • Name:Neil
  • Location:Perth Western Australia
  • Car:LX SS , 76 Cadillac , 3 x dattos
  • Joined: 04-February 07

Posted 25 June 2012 - 09:27 PM

If you manage to get that bearing hot enough to melt the seals you better get out of there quick

We use 2rs seals on just about every clutch spigot job I've ever seen
I doubt you'll ever have an iusse with it... and even if you did... its a $10 bearing

http://www.hobbypart...adialunflanged/

#71 hanra

hanra

    Oh My, Don't you post alot

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 10,909 posts
  • Name:Brad
  • Location:Farrrrrr North Qld
  • Car:1975 LH SL/R 5000, 1967 Morris Cooper S, E36 BMW, Toyota Corolla, Isuzu DMax
  • Joined: 24-March 11

Posted 25 June 2012 - 09:42 PM

Thanks for the vote of confidence datto!!! Very simple mod to do yet very effective.

#72 LC-069

LC-069

    Forum Fan

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 363 posts
  • Name:Mark
  • Location:Melbourne, VIC
  • Car:LC GTR & LX SL
  • Joined: 10-November 05

Posted 23 March 2014 - 09:29 PM

Brad, do you know what the measure is from the face of the bearing to the end of the shaft? (from your pic above)



#73 mika03au

mika03au

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 812 posts
  • Name:Michael
  • Location:Brisbane
  • Car:LX hatch
  • Joined: 06-July 11
Garage View Garage

Posted 08 May 2016 - 05:58 PM

Thanks Brad the 25.4 works a treat.
Took about 30 minutes for me to do. The steering shafts are out for a power steering kit installation though.
My only issue was fitting the C clamp which holds the end of the open outer shaft tight. Used a stainless hose clamp instead.
Looks ok as you can hardly see it there nestled in there with the headers. Holds the bearing in nice and snug.
Wire clip snapped in place first .
Attached File  image.jpeg   92.34K   13 downloads

Edited by mika03au, 08 May 2016 - 06:01 PM.





1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users