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flywheels coming loose


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#26 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 14 May 2007 - 09:40 PM

ah ok, thats great.

might have to look at kevlar trans blankets :P

#27 TerrA LX

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Posted 14 May 2007 - 09:57 PM

^ yeah they usually crack the circumference around the bolts, like nearest the first cut outs in them. you can get thicker ones (heavy duty) ones but i think they are supposed to "flex" so i think you would end up with other problems then, maybe loosening bolts.

#28 turbotrana

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Posted 15 May 2007 - 02:30 AM

More things to add to the list of to do things!! keep it coming!

Ok, another wear point is the rear thrust bearing on the thrust faces. This wears alot with manuals and the only thing feeding any oil to it is based on oil splashing into a very difficult to get to hole.(you will know what hole I am referring to if you have a look.) You can grind a concave section on the top side of the hole to catch more oil but what I do is make another oil feed to the thrust bearing on the flywheel side.

This is hard to explain but you can drill a hole from one of the grooves where the thrust bearing runs in which intersects with the oil feed to number 6 bearing. You then tap this hole to fit a 5mm grub screw with a 20thou or 30 thou hole in it. You locktite the grub screw in.

With the cam oil feed you get one of those brass plugs with a square end on the front of it. You get one that will screw into the front of the main oil gallery once it is appropriatelly tapped. You then drill a 20 or 30 thou hole on the side of square end of the plug to intersect with a hole that is drilled on the gallery side of that plug. You must make sure you tighten the plug fully first before you drill the feed hole so that the oil sprays towards the cam retaining plate.

When you do these mods you must blueprint your oil pump as it does lower the oils pressure with extra feeds otherwise you can get low oil pressure at idle. I only run 45 to 50 psi max oil pressure but this has its advantages. Less oil pump gear wear which can be a problem and less work for the engine. I have never had a bearing failure with an engine with the full mods but have with just a HV pump put on.

I use JP oil pumps and these pumps need to be blueprinted before use. My machinist levels the gear surface on the gear side of the pump and the cover is clearanced to run a couple of thou.

And then theres crank prep.............

As I said before I spend alot of time on the oiling system and this is the main reason it has survived 500+rwhp for as long as it has.

#29 _gtrtorana_

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Posted 15 May 2007 - 05:32 PM

Ok, another wear point is the rear thrust bearing on the thrust faces. This wears alot with manuals and the only thing feeding any oil to it is based on oil splashing into a very difficult to get to hole.(you will know what hole I am referring to if you have a look.) You can grind a concave section on the top side of the hole to catch more oil but what I do is make another oil feed to the thrust bearing on the flywheel side.

This is the reason I have to build another motor. The thrust ring on my crank was worn that thin that it was about to snap off crank. How did I know something was wrong, when I pushed the clutch in, the flywheel would hit back of engine. Keep the straight 6 tips comming :spoton: :spoton:

#30 _troy_

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Posted 22 May 2007 - 07:20 PM

MY flywheel has flown off twice now and im really p#$ed off!
1.Standard flywheel bolts are shit
2.Some advice on here i took didnt work regarding flywheel advice, at alot of time and expense
3.Im biting the bullet and going yella terra aluminium with arp bolts clamped down to 90 pounds not 45-55 as stated .I will keep you informed if it works or not. :gun:

#31 _82911_

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Posted 22 May 2007 - 07:56 PM

2.Some advice on here i took didnt work regarding flywheel advice, at alot of time and expense

You know what Troy.
Most of us on here give up freely our time and advice in the hope that it might help someone solve a problem...
If you took someones advice and it didn't work.
Then you either took the advice of someone who didn't know shit from clay...OR
You Fuffed it up yourself.....
SO HOW IS THAT OUR PROBLEM.... :cry:
Settle.We understand the frustration.

Did you check for run out on the flange faces?......Hmmm well.....???

Cheers Greg..

#32 orangeLJ

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Posted 22 May 2007 - 08:12 PM

yella terra dont make billet alloy ones anymore, we tried to order them, but they said demand wasnt there. they do still make the billet steel explosion proof ones, we have one in my old mans stroker motor.

#33 lakeside

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Posted 22 May 2007 - 09:00 PM

MY flywheel has flown off twice now and im really p#$ed off!
1.Standard flywheel bolts are shit
2.Some advice on here i took didnt work regarding flywheel advice, at alot of time and expense
3.Im biting the bullet and going yella terra aluminium with arp bolts clamped down to 90 pounds not 45-55 as stated .I will keep you informed if it works or not. :gun:

:fool:

#34 _troy_

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Posted 26 May 2007 - 04:38 PM

Greg i know theres alot of advice on here and it is very helpfull,but sometimes some people make out they know what there doin but dont know shit,im waiting on my new flywheel from yella terra and arp bolts ,the crank is fine no run out ,just too much power being transfered,and knowing the right torque settings to keep it on,

#35 _82911_

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Posted 26 May 2007 - 05:50 PM

True, I'd have to say that there has been ocasions that i would agree with you....
Is it a red crank by chance??

Cheers Greg..

#36 _1QUICK LJ_

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Posted 27 May 2007 - 01:16 AM

the problem is holden sixes have way too small harmonic balancers, the cranks are long and spindly and get bad harmonic vibrations through certain parts of the rev range. the best way to fix the problem is to fit a better balancer and get rid of the harmonic vibrations that cause the problem in the first place. a cheap way of doing it is to bolt two balancers together by machining the back off another standard one then bolt it to the front of the other one, or better still is the fluid filled massey ferguson balancer modified to fit the holden crank. or you can modify and fit a chev item also. this is the only way to fix the problem properly, all the other ways are just band aid fixes. to fix it properly the vibration problem needs to be addressed. fitting better balancers wont wipe out the vibrations entirely but it will move the vibration much higher in the rev range where it wont be a problem anymore.

#37 lakeside

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Posted 27 May 2007 - 10:06 PM

MY flywheel has flown off twice now and im really p#$ed off!

after comming off the first time, wouldn't you sit back and think, why did this happen. You only have 2 feet and ones no good without the other, trust me.

#38 _troy_

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Posted 04 June 2007 - 11:00 PM

Problem solved,Loctite thread locker,90 pounds torque,arp bolts,yella terra flywheel,all good :D

#39 _1QUICK LJ_

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Posted 05 June 2007 - 09:19 PM

wonder for how long though :<_<:

#40 _dave720gtr_

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Posted 05 June 2007 - 09:26 PM

lol" yer thats what i was thinking :spit:

#41 lakeside

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Posted 05 June 2007 - 09:42 PM

Problem solved,Loctite thread locker,90 pounds torque,arp bolts,yella terra flywheel,all good :D

you still understand why you use the dowells, i think.




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