
Bead Vs. Sand Blasting
#1
Posted 23 May 2007 - 04:17 PM
Sand blasting
- More aggressive, have been told it could warp panels? (even though the guy i rang said he wont and has been doing it for years)
- Will get rid of all paint, rust and bog.
- May leave traces of sand after it is done
- Cant do the under side of bonnets or boot lids
- Is a perfect start point as sand blasting bites into the steel giving a good surface
Bead blasting
- Guaranteed no warped panels
- Gets rid of all paint and some bog. Does net get rid heavy bog and does not get rid of rust.
- The surface needs to be sanded back lightly after it has been done.
It will cost about the same to get either done. Sand blasting sounds good but i am concerned about panel damaged. Bead blasting will leave me with rust which means i will need to get that removed.
Has anyone here had experience with both of these or gone through the thinking stage between them and made a decision?
cheer
#2
Posted 23 May 2007 - 05:10 PM
Sand will give you the best finish but you beed to be straight onto it with a good etch primer.
You will need to make sure you are not doing the blasting in damp conditions.
Lastly, you forgot one . soda blasting...
Don't know anything more than what i've read.
Welby
#3
Posted 23 May 2007 - 06:16 PM
#4
Posted 23 May 2007 - 06:24 PM
DAF industries in mordialloc
CarStrip in Campberfield
Blast off in Heidleberg
#5
Posted 23 May 2007 - 07:34 PM
thanks!
#6
_Pete_
Posted 23 May 2007 - 07:40 PM
Bead blasting is nice, probably the preferred option but you'll need to do a bit of follow-up work in getting it ready for Etch.
Soda Blasting looks great in the promos and it definately has its place, I've also heard most Paint companies won't guarantee their Etch primers on parts that have been Soda Blasted. The soda blasted panels will need to be cleaned up properly as the residue which helps prevent flash rusting also inhibits primer adhesion.
Whichever way you decide to go its still nice to have clean bare steel to work with!!! Just make sure you adequately prepare it before laying on expensive paints!! Which I'm sure you will!!. Good Luck!
#7
Posted 23 May 2007 - 07:59 PM
Tim
#8
Posted 23 May 2007 - 09:05 PM
Cheers
#9
Posted 24 May 2007 - 12:03 AM
Soda blasting leaves a coating on the metal so it will not rust for a couple of weeks giving you time to do panel work. When you are ready to prime you remove the coating using POR15 Metal Ready or a similar acid wash.
The worst thing about sand blasting is that the stuff gets everywhere inside panels etc. You can never get all the sand out, instead is sits there waiting to absorb moisture or fall out when the paint is wet.
#10
Posted 24 May 2007 - 09:36 AM
I was thinking to get the whole car bead blasted and then to have specific rusted areas sand blasted. This would be a more expensive process but a safe way to do things. The whole car will need a light sanding before primer is applied. What do you guyths think about this method?
cheers
#11
_Hatchblack_
Posted 24 May 2007 - 11:34 AM
Inside /outside/underneath all sparlky cleaned for $1600.00.
Left any areas of filler so it can be removed by the panel beater when painted. This is done so the panel beater can see very thin wipes of filler and can deal with them.
No damage whatso ever to the glass still in the doors, minor areas of rust were polished but not damaged at all.
Well recommended.
#12
Posted 24 May 2007 - 11:40 AM
why did you choose soda blasting over bead blasting?
#13
_RTS Guy_
Posted 24 May 2007 - 11:42 AM
i agree with that comment.The worst thing about sand blasting is that the stuff gets everywhere inside panels etc. You can never get all the sand out, instead is sits there waiting to absorb moisture or fall out when the paint is wet.
i have had a car bead blasted before.
will definately be going that way again if needed.
#14
_Hatchblack_
Posted 24 May 2007 - 11:51 AM
The soda blasting guy asked how much filler I wanted removed - I was there while he did it. One part had layer on layer so that wes taken off by adjusting the blasting pressuer. Still no body damage though.Hey hatchback... did the soda blasting remove any of the bog/filler at all?
why did you choose soda blasting over bead blasting?
I chose this 'cause there is no damage to metal at all. After it's been done it is safe to leave the car in bare metal for about 2 months before any signs of surface rust appears (as long as you don't live in a salty area). When the car gets to the repairer all he ahs to do is hose it off to remove any excess soda as it's water soluable.
Im just south of Sydney and I took the car to Taren Point. Call John on 02 96665922
#15
Posted 24 May 2007 - 11:58 AM
#16
Posted 24 May 2007 - 12:37 PM
See if you can find a soda blaster in your area and have a look at what they can do.
The following websites have some information.
http://www.asb-qld.com.au/faqs.htm
http://www.sodablast.....r Restoration
#17
_Big T_
Posted 24 May 2007 - 06:18 PM
#18
Posted 24 May 2007 - 06:43 PM
Are there any companies in melbourne that do it? anyone?
#19
Posted 23 July 2014 - 04:58 PM
Is Soda Blasting the going thing these Day's
or has Chemical Dipping taken over?
and we need Name's of Company's doing a Great Job Australia Wide
#20
_Bomber Watson_
Posted 23 July 2014 - 05:15 PM
Im slowly thinking chem dipping could be ok.
Being a large art of my job i still like media blasting with garnet.
Glass bead should not be used on cars.
Plastic beed looks alright.
Im still not convinced wih soda.
Cheers.
#21
Posted 23 July 2014 - 05:23 PM
We had a soda blaster do a bit of work on some brass work on an old steam engine,it is quite delicate and according to the bloke that did
it the main thing is that it is very alkaline and needs to be neutralized before you paint it.
It just about killed the grass in the area of the the steam engine.
#22
Posted 23 July 2014 - 07:29 PM
Heres a picture of my bonnet after sand blasting by a so called reputable company in Newcastle NSW.......... and No it wasnt Graham.
The bonnet looked fine in bare metal but once epoxied then a flat block lightly sanded over it.....it showed all the stretch marks and warpage.....if you look close at the shapes of the patches they match the under frame of the bonnet.
My boot lid turned out exactly the same.
So never again will I have any sheet panel sand blasted.....it peens and stretches sheet like crazy no matter how careful......this is why a blaster refuses to do the underside of bonnets and boot lids cause the areas not protected by the frame will stretch like buggery and leave huge bubble like stretches in the skin the same shape as the frame.
#23
_sloffador_
Posted 23 July 2014 - 07:35 PM
Geez Bomber its taken some convincing
#24
_Bomber Watson_
Posted 23 July 2014 - 07:55 PM
Heres a picture of my bonnet after sand blasting by a so called reputable company in Newcastle NSW.......... and No it wasnt Graham.
The bonnet looked fine in bare metal but once epoxied then a flat block lightly sanded over it.....it showed all the stretch marks and warpage.....if you look close at the shapes of the patches they match the under frame of the bonnet.
My boot lid turned out exactly the same.
So never again will I have any sheet panel sand blasted.....it peens and stretches sheet like crazy no matter how careful......this is why a blaster refuses to do the underside of bonnets and boot lids cause the areas not protected by the frame will stretch like buggery and leave huge bubble like stretches in the skin the same shape as the frame.
Sad to hear.
Personally i wouldnt grit such a bit panel, i'd chem strip the big parts and just grit the tough bits, as i've done on a lot of cars with great success.
Realistically the best method is a mixture of the best parts of all methods...I recon?
That said, give the bonnet three coats of a urethane primer filler and try again, recon you will get her straight.
Cheers.
Edited by Bomber Watson, 23 July 2014 - 07:56 PM.
#25
Posted 23 July 2014 - 08:43 PM
True Bomber, the bonnet is now straight.....I hit it with a couple of coats of Upol Reface poly.... then primer filler.....that fixed her lol.
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