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HQ Brake conversion Tutorial

Started by weedy , Jun 04 2007 05:32 PM

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278 replies to this topic

#1 weedy

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Posted 04 June 2007 - 05:32 PM

Hi All

Does anyone know of a tutorial for the conversion to HQ brakes on a LX torana.Ive had a bit of a look around but no luck......

Cheers

Weedy

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#2 Toranavista

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Posted 04 June 2007 - 05:39 PM

http://www.gmh-toran...?showtopic=1012

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#3 _Squarepants_

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Posted 04 June 2007 - 11:15 PM

HQ brake conversion will throw your steering geometry out, but if this is not an issue for you, then it's a great, cheap conversion.

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#4 Struggler

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Posted 05 June 2007 - 08:09 PM

HQ brake conversion will throw your steering geometry out.

Well I guess that depends on how you go about it.

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#5 _Squarepants_

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Posted 13 June 2007 - 05:24 PM

Are you saying that this can be done without stuffing up your steering? I thought the stub axles must have a different dimension between upper and lower mounts to Tory's or something like that. :blink:

I'd be interested to learn more as (obviously I'm no expert and) this is what I've been told and it's the only reason I didn't do it myself.
Can you use HJ or HZ Brakes or are they different to HQ?
Someone once told me to use HJ stubs and discs and UC callipers, does this sound feasable?
Please, tell me (or link me to) everything you can, as it would be a hell of a lot cheaper than a Hoppers kit. :bowdown:

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#6 Struggler

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Posted 13 June 2007 - 10:09 PM

I'm sure I will upset a few people but after doing a heap of HQ/LH/X brake conversions this is how I now do it.

Remove the Torana caliper and disc. Take your HQ discs to the brake shop and get them to remove about 6mm or a quarter inch from the external diameter of the disc and get the disc face machined down all the way to the bolt up face (most HQ discs dont have this face fully machined as the pad normally doesn't run in this area). Fit these discs to the stub axles on your car and repack the bearings (HQ and LH/X/UC bearings are the same). Trial fit the HQ caliper and check for interference (yes the HQ caliper will bolt to the torana stub) and grind away as required to clear the tie rod end. Check the clearance between the outer pad and the bolt up face of the disc (you have moved the caliper closer to the bearing than it would be in an HQ). Refit, bleed brakes and drive off !!!

Yes the caliper does not sit as far away from the spindle as it does in an HQ but you do have ventilated discs, a real caliper, HQ pattern and no wheel alignment or bumpsteer issues. Try it , you'll like it.

Flame on non believers !!!!!!!!

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#7 dattoman

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Posted 13 June 2007 - 11:06 PM

Struggler you will get no fight from me on this one

Thats exactly what Brock used on the yellow LJ he campaigned in the Biante series a couple of years ago

It works
Its cheap

One of many ways to upgrade your brakes
Not a huge step.... but certainly a step in the right direction

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#8 _Squarepants_

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Posted 15 June 2007 - 01:38 PM

Ok, I see what you mean about the steering issues now. That's a handy little mod you've sussed out there. :clap:

When you say "check the clearance between outer pad and bolt up face", how tight is this likely to be, and what do you do if it interferes? And what do you mean by "a real caliper"? Do you mean they're bigger? They're still single piston aren't they?

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#9 _Herne_

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Posted 15 June 2007 - 02:19 PM

I'm sure I will upset a few people but after doing a heap of HQ/LH/X brake conversions this is how I now do it.

Remove the Torana caliper and disc. Take your HQ discs to the brake shop and get them to remove about 6mm or a quarter inch from the external diameter of the disc and get the disc face machined down all the way to the bolt up face (most HQ discs dont have this face fully machined as the pad normally doesn't run in this area). Fit these discs to the stub axles on your car and repack the bearings (HQ and LH/X/UC bearings are the same). Trial fit the HQ caliper and check for interference (yes the HQ caliper will bolt to the torana stub) and grind away as required to clear the tie rod end. Check the clearance between the outer pad and the bolt up face of the disc (you have moved the caliper closer to the bearing than it would be in an HQ). Refit, bleed brakes and drive off !!!

Yes the caliper does not sit as far away from the spindle as it does in an HQ but you do have ventilated discs, a real caliper, HQ pattern and no wheel alignment or bumpsteer issues. Try it , you'll like it.

Flame on non believers !!!!!!!!

Thats exactly what I have and it passed engineering with no worries at all.

I have no complaints with my brakes.

Cheers
Herne

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#10 _Herne_

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Posted 15 June 2007 - 02:37 PM

Struggler you will get no fight from me on this one

Thats exactly what Brock used on the yellow LJ he campaigned in the Biante series a couple of years ago

It works
Its cheap

One of many ways to upgrade your brakes
Not a huge step.... but certainly a step in the right direction

I didn't think it was commonly known that Brock raced with this very same brake conversion

I have received funny looks of doubt when this has been mentioned in passing conversation.

Cheers
Herne

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#11 Struggler

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Posted 15 June 2007 - 02:44 PM

When you say "check the clearance between outer pad and bolt up face", how tight is this likely to be, and what do you do if it interferes? And what do you mean by "a real caliper"?

That clearance is usually fine, but I have ground a bit off a loose pad once before.

By a real caliper I mean one that takes a good size pad, is fairly stout and flex resistant. I really don't like the alloy LX calipers that some use in the conversion with a steel HX slide.

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#12 dattoman

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Posted 15 June 2007 - 08:13 PM

Struggler you will get no fight from me on this one

Thats exactly what Brock used on the yellow LJ he campaigned in the Biante series a couple of years ago

It works
Its cheap

One of many ways to upgrade your brakes
Not a huge step.... but certainly a step in the right direction
I didn't think it was commonly known that Brock raced with this very same brake conversion
I have received funny looks of doubt when this has been mentioned in passing conversation.

Cheers
Herne

I notice such things

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#13 micklx

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Posted 15 June 2007 - 08:51 PM

Do you have to use HQ calipers for this or will HJ - WB fit also ?

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#14 _rorym_

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Posted 15 June 2007 - 10:37 PM

This one.
R
Posted Image

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#15 micklx

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Posted 16 June 2007 - 10:08 AM

What happenned to that car after PB finished with it ?

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#16 dattoman

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Posted 16 June 2007 - 10:31 AM

I guess the owner took it back and its sitting in a shed somewhere

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#17 _SLR Goat_

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Posted 16 June 2007 - 11:35 AM

when u say machine the outer diameter down by 6mm do u mean the part that the number one 1 line is pointing to and machine the disc face down to the bolt up face as line number 2 points to do u machine it down level if so much much does it take off the rotor thickness?

cheers dennis

Posted Image

Edited by SLR Goat, 16 June 2007 - 11:36 AM.

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#18 Struggler

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Posted 16 June 2007 - 12:23 PM

Yes, 6mm off the No. 1 and on a USED disc you will need to machine the face all the way to No.2. To save time some shops don't machine the disc all the way to the centre when they remachine them. On a new disc you won't need to as the face hasn't yet been hacked by a pad.

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#19 _SLR Goat_

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Posted 16 June 2007 - 12:43 PM

Cool thanks

Just another query u obviously run the calipers on the front of the rotor how much grinding is required to clear tie rod end i got uc steering arms atm but thinking of changing it so the suspension geometry will be standard again

Do u have to get custom made flexi hoses made up or is there a random hose that will fit i have a LH

cheers dennis

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#20 Struggler

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Posted 16 June 2007 - 02:00 PM

You do have to grind a bit off the caliper mount, how much ?? you will just have to grind it and see.

From memory I just used the HQ hoses.

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#21 _shmack_1_

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Posted 16 June 2007 - 06:08 PM

One of many ways to upgrade your brakes

Not a huge step.... but certainly a step in the right direction

dattoman, what are some better options without the hoppers kit obviously,?

Edited by shmack_1, 16 June 2007 - 06:10 PM.

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#22 dattoman

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Posted 16 June 2007 - 07:11 PM

To retain the correct steering geometry

Either as above
Or HQ stubs and brakes and A9X steering arms

Or our kits

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#23 _shmack_1_

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Posted 17 June 2007 - 01:35 AM

what are your kits? do you have a link? is the hq harrop arms option any better than the above in your opinion?

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#24 Struggler

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Posted 17 June 2007 - 12:08 PM

Is the hq harrop arms option any better than the above in your opinion?

I know I'm answering Dattomans question, I'm sure he will chip in and I don't mean to tread on his toes.

Using the HQ stub moves the caliper further away from the centre of the disc, this increases braking leverage and is better than the above described method. It is more expensive though as you must buy the Harrop arms.

Yes it is a better, more expensive option.

JMHO