278 replies to this topic

[Toranamat69]

Depends how much more clearance you need.
Run UC torana front end alignment specs with UC steering arms and the geometry will be ok.

Would be good to borrow a set rather than buy incase they don't fit either.
People want good money for UC steering arms these days. If you were in Bris I could bring some over for you to try.

[waynec]

Depends how much more clearance you need.
Run UC torana front end alignment specs with UC steering arms and the geometry will be ok.

Would be good to borrow a set rather than buy incase they don't fit either.
People want good money for UC steering arms these days. If you were in Bris I could bring some over for you to try.

i am only in vic mate not that far .

[ls2lxhatch]

The tie rod end looks to be sitting a bit higher than normal in the steering arm, it could just be the split rubber boot or the angle that makes it look odd.

 
It may be worth trying a different tie rod end.

 

 
 

[waynec]

switched the slides left to right and right to left on the caliper fixed the clearance issue, somone must have pulled them of and reinstalled them around the wrong way ,

so pays to check things out ..

Edited by waynec, 25 February 2021 - 06:58 PM.

[claysummers]

Got caught many years ago trying to bleed calipers on a HR front end. They had been swapped side to side and the bleed nipples were at the bottom of the chambers. No way to get the air out. Took to Power Brakes SA and they worked it out straight away of course.


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[waynec]

thats how i worked out the issue they where fitting not to bad with bleeder at the bottom 

[lxtorana64]

Hi all. I see this thread has been quiet for a while. I'm using this conversion for simplicity and because I have a set of 14" GTS rims I want to use. Car is a LX, I have a pair of HQ PBR cast iron Calipers and getting 12mm taken off the overall diameter of the rotors.
Question. If it all fits up good (with a little grinding on the caliper mounts) will it pass for a roadworthy/rego as the car is now not registered in Vic?
Any advice much appreciated.

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[rexy]

Should be fine.

Don't mention it to them and if they are relatively young they probably wouldn’t know it’s not factory. Or tell them its an A9X!

[lxtorana64]

Thanks rexy. Along the lines I was thinking.

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[RoyalPlum76SS]

Question. If it all fits up good (with a little grinding on the caliper mounts) will it pass for a roadworthy/rego as the car is now not registered in Vic?
Any advice much appreciated.
 

Hi mate, when you say "a little grinding on the caliper mounts" its actually around 5mm you would need to grind off in order to get the rotor running centrally in the caliper. I would suggest getting the caliper mounting faces properly machined so the pads will sit up all nice and square to the rotor faces.

Cheers

John

[lxtorana64]

Ok. I thought it was only the caliper mount. I ground a few ml off the mount to clear the steering arm so the mounting bolts would fit. I wasn't aware I needed some off the face as well.

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[RoyalPlum76SS]

Ok. I thought it was only the caliper mount. I ground a few ml off the mount to clear the steering arm so the mounting bolts would fit. I wasn't aware I needed some off the face as well.

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 It is all due to the differences in the 'step' at the base of the spindles of the 2 types of stub axles, which is approximately 5mm.

Basically, when you fit a H rotor to a Torana stub it offsets the rotor 5mm outwards comparative to where it would normally sit within the H caliper. So to overcome this, the 5mm has to be machined from the caliper mounting faces which effectively offsets the caliper outward and sitting back centrally over the rotor.

You will probably still have to grind a little 'relief' for the steering arm too.

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[lxtorana64]

Thanks John. I'm dropping the rotors off to machine the diameter, I'll get the caliper mounts done as well. Cheers

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[yel327]

Is that photo above for HK to mid HX or the later HX through to WB stubs? There is a difference, can't remember exactly what it was. The parts books say the change occurred when the calipers changed during HX.

[RoyalPlum76SS]

Is that photo above for HK to mid HX or the later HX through to WB stubs? There is a difference, can't remember exactly what it was. The parts books say the change occurred when the calipers changed during HX.

Hi Yel,
they are 43695 (1 Tonner or A9X stubs).
I have several sets of HQ-WB stub axles here, they all appear to have the same basic geometry, however, there are differences in the machined caliper mounting areas of each.
On the later ones they have machined off a slightly larger flat surface. Not 100% sure why this was done, as later calipers fit on earlier stubs (and vice versa) without issue.
Pictured are the earlier and latter versions of the 1 tonner stubs, measuring the same arbitrary reference point. Hard to measure precisely as it's curved, but shows the depth of cut 27-25mm (either side of the ruler) on one and 24-22mm on the other. Can also see it goes further into the 'meat' of the stub axle itself on the latter.

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[yel327]

Ah that is the difference. I knew there was a difference, just couldn’t remember what. Makes no difference if cab-chassis or not, same stubs just heat treated for superior strength on cab-chassis.
It’s to do with those alloy body HX PBR calipers, must have been to get a few more mm tolerance in clearance.

Edited by yel327, 31 July 2023 - 07:32 PM.

[76lxhatch]

There's another version where the caliper mounting area doesn't go all the way between the two bolts, and not all calipers will bolt onto those without clearance mods.

[rexy]

Is the extra machining apart from disc diameter reduction only required if you use the HQ steel calipers?

When I did this in the early 90s with HX slides on torana stubs with LX alloy PBR calipers there wasn’t any extra machining required to fit it together.

[RoyalPlum76SS]

Is the extra machining apart from disc diameter reduction only required if you use the HQ steel calipers?

When I did this in the early 90s with HX slides on torana stubs with LX alloy PBR calipers there wasn’t any extra machining required to fit it together.

Out of the 6 different HQ-WB calipers, the PBR alloy calipers are the only ones that don't need the actual caliper mounting points machined. They overcome the problem by using the HX slides (which as you would know are longer than the LX versions) which effectively span the rotor enough to overcome the introduced offset.

[yel327]

6 different HQ-WB calipers? Old memory but when I played with these in the 80's and 90's I can only remember:

 

HQ PBR (and some HJ).

HJ Girlock (and some HX).

HX PBR alloy body.

HZ-WB Girlock alloy body.

 

Some overlaps of course but I can only remember the four distinct types. Admittedly this is on a sample of maybe 500 cars all up I ever took the time to look closely at, so I didn't see all of them!

[RoyalPlum76SS]

6 different HQ-WB calipers? Old memory but when I played with these in the 80's and 90's I can only remember:

 

HQ PBR (and some HJ).

HJ Girlock (and some HX).

HX PBR alloy body.

HZ-WB Girlock alloy body.

 

Some overlaps of course but I can only remember the four distinct types. Admittedly this is on a sample of maybe 500 cars all up I ever took the time to look closely at, so I didn't see all of them!

You are correct in the above list but I would note there are 2 types of cast HQ.

There are the earlier which are often referred to as small pin, and also the latter, which have the big slide pin (and have a scalloped out area in the top of main body).

 

I would also split the late HX/HZ and WB calipers into 2. The WB is obviously very similar but does have the inlet hose at the back of the piston via a banjo fitting, rather than fitting up underneath the main body.

[76lxhatch]

I would also split the late HX/HZ and WB calipers into 2. The WB is obviously very similar but does have the inlet hose at the back of the piston via a banjo fitting, rather than fitting up underneath the main body.

WB has metric fittings too, doesn't it?
 

[RoyalPlum76SS]

WB has metric fittings too, doesn't it?
 

Yes I believe so.

[yel327]

You are correct in the above list but I would note there are 2 types of cast HQ.

There are the earlier which are often referred to as small pin, and also the latter, which have the big slide pin (and have a scalloped out area in the top of main body).

 

I would also split the late HX/HZ and WB calipers into 2. The WB is obviously very similar but does have the inlet hose at the back of the piston via a banjo fitting, rather than fitting up underneath the main body.

 

Ah, that makes more sense, I remember those HQ variations now - I think the castings changed in common with Ford and Chrysler too, but it's been 30+ years since I fiddled with them. WB were always a pain the in butt, where you'd buy two cars and parts were not interchangeable. Even some of the threads on bolts and screws changed. All the hex heads remained AF from memory but some threads went metric. Like the screws around the perimeter of the front guard into the metal splash guard. They were imperial on early WB but went metric later.

[claysummers]

Am I right in thinking that the HX PBR calipers were a bit of a dud. Known for seizing the slides? I remember dropping a bolt out of one slide on the freeway, with the consequence of a juddering pull to the side of the road. Fortunately I was already in the left lane and the run off was amply wide. Could happen on any setup no doubt.


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