278 replies to this topic

[76lxhatch]

I'm not sure you'll get a direct yes/no answer though, I'd be looking at the info and pics in that thread and allowing for the 6mm difference

edit: hmm more than 6mm with the HQ stub effectively being a drop stub, looking at those pics perhaps the answer is no (at least installed to the front anyway)

Edited by 76lxhatch, 25 January 2011 - 11:03 AM.

[Struggler]

Check out the other pinned topic in this section:
http://www.gmh-torana.com.au/forums/topic/1012-grinding-metal-from-brake-calipers-a9x-style
(there are still some pics on page 2)

Thanks, but that references using HQ stubs, I will still be using the torana stub axle just as "Struggler" listed in his conversion.

I honestly can't remember if they fit or not, I'm fairly sure you will need to grind into them.

Sorry I couldn't be more specific.

[76lxhatch]

Don't take this as gospel because I don't know firsthand, but I've been told by a reputable source that the LJ stubs have a different length spindle so the discs aren't interchangeable. You can bolt on the LH/LX/UC stubs which will take the HQ discs (machined down in diameter to fit the calipers) and use the LJ steering arms I believe. If that's correct then you could also bolt on the HQ stubs, but I don't know what you'd do for steering arms. Beyond that its just caliper clearance issues which shouldn't be too bad.

If the brakes aren't a concern, I've seen Volvo wheels mentioned a number of times here.

[dattoman]

Start a thread

This was a tutorial

[Hybrid]

I must have read this guide about four times now. I don't seem to recall anywhere in here where it talks about changes to the front track when swapping over to the HQ discs.

I just did a comparison on my LC and it appears there is next to no change to the track. I measured a reduction of 1mm with the HQ discs, so for all intents and purposes, the conversion from LC/LJ discs to HQ discs does not alter the track. I presume that this would be the same for LH/LX/UC.

Cheers,
Brett

[76lxhatch]

The rotors are the hub, if you want HQ discs you need to get HQ discs

[76lxhatch]

The HQ hub/disc will bolt directly to the LH stub. There are differences between the stub axles though as covered by various threads on this site.

Edited by 76lxhatch, 02 September 2011 - 10:52 AM.

[ribz0]

I have used this info and have done the conversion on my LC Torana. It all went sweet and I used parts I had from a HJ Statesman.

I used original stubs, machined down HQ-Z (new) rotors and HJ callipiers. As for the fluid side, I used the master cylinder and Proportion valve of the statesman.

I had some rear axles made so the flange would take the HQ stud pattern and am running the HJ rear drum brakes.

All in all a great improvement.

http://www.gmh-toran...-wheel-upgrade/

Cheers

[ribz0]

There isnt enough meat on the flang to re-drill, thats why I got a set of axles made to run the bigger HJ rear drum brakes as well as going to HQ studs.

Other option is to do another diff but all depends what you are after.

[ribz0]

Booster yes... master cylinder should be right but better use what comes off the doner car... My booster is torana, everything else is HJ Holden..

Not sure if LH master cylinders are the same as H series ones....

Cheers

[dattoman]

LH master is the same as HQ-J

[lxtorana64]

I'm sure I will upset a few people but after doing a heap of HQ/LH/X brake conversions this is how I now do it.

Remove the Torana caliper and disc. Take your HQ discs to the brake shop and get them to remove about 6mm or a quarter inch from the external diameter of the disc and get the disc face machined down all the way to the bolt up face (most HQ discs dont have this face fully machined as the pad normally doesn't run in this area). Fit these discs to the stub axles on your car and repack the bearings (HQ and LH/X/UC bearings are the same). Trial fit the HQ caliper and check for interference (yes the HQ caliper will bolt to the torana stub) and grind away as required to clear the tie rod end. Check the clearance between the outer pad and the bolt up face of the disc (you have moved the caliper closer to the bearing than it would be in an HQ). Refit, bleed brakes and drive off !!!

Yes the caliper does not sit as far away from the spindle as it does in an HQ but you do have ventilated discs, a real caliper, HQ pattern and no wheel alignment or bumpsteer issues. Try it , you'll like it.

Flame on non believers !!!!!!!!

Struggler, so is that 6mm in TOTAL off the diameter and if I am using new rotors then I don't have to get the disc face machined ?

[Struggler]

Struggler, so is that 6mm in TOTAL off the diameter and if I am using new rotors then I don't have to get the disc face machined ?

Sorry, I'll clarify..... take 6mm off the RADIUS of the discs. So about 12mm reduction in overall diameter.

If the discs are new then you will NOT have to machine the faces.

Again, sorry for not being clear enough. I knew what I was trying to say, just didn't put it across clearly enough.

Also as an aside, I have heard of others having issues with the caliper sitting centrally over the disc (some of them have posted in this thread). I honestly can't say why this is, perhaps different models have different disc offsets or something. Please check your particular application. What I have also heard is that 6cyl and pre-VL V8 commodore discs will work with NO modifications (they are the right diameter and offset). This may be an option if you want to use commodore stud pattern wheels.

Hope this helps and best of luck !