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HQ Brake conversion Tutorial

Started by weedy , Jun 04 2007 05:32 PM

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278 replies to this topic

#126 lxtorana64

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Posted 07 September 2012 - 03:17 PM

Sorry, I'll clarify..... take 6mm off the RADIUS of the discs. So about 12mm reduction in overall diameter.

If the discs are new then you will NOT have to machine the faces.

Again, sorry for not being clear enough. I knew what I was trying to say, just didn't put it across clearly enough.

Also as an aside, I have heard of others having issues with the caliper sitting centrally over the disc (some of them have posted in this thread). I honestly can't say why this is, perhaps different models have different disc offsets or something. Please check your particular application. What I have also heard is that 6cyl and pre-VL V8 commodore discs will work with NO modifications (they are the right diameter and offset). This may be an option if you want to use commodore stud pattern wheels.

Hope this helps and best of luck !

Thanks struggler. I'll give it a go. Was going for the crs conversion as I will be running 14" rims, but drum stub axles are scarce as hens teeth ! Also should save a few bucks.
Cheers

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#127 _stcos85_

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Posted 09 November 2012 - 04:27 PM

I got my rotors machined down and have taken some metal off of the caliper carrier as per the details in this thread but when I offer up the carrier it looks like I need to machine the face that bolts up to the stub axle. Its looks like I will have to take off about 2mm or so to get this to fit over the rotor.

I will post up a few pics later tonight but has anyone else had this issue and needed to do this maching or am I doing something wrong?

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#128 _stcos85_

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Posted 09 November 2012 - 06:49 PM

I got my rotors machined down and have taken some metal off of the caliper carrier as per the details in this thread but when I offer up the carrier it looks like I need to machine the face that bolts up to the stub axle. Its looks like I will have to take off about 2mm or so to get this to fit over the rotor.

I will post up a few pics later tonight but has anyone else had this issue and needed to do this maching or am I doing something wrong?

this is the face I think I need to machine
Posted Image

these pics arent much help but someone may have an idea by looking at them
Posted Image

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#129 _stcos85_

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Posted 15 November 2012 - 06:59 PM

this is the face I think I need to machine

these pics arent much help but someone may have an idea by looking at them

Looks like I will have to throw this lot away. I was hoping someone could give me some advise before I spend more money machining parts.

There must be someone that can give me some advise

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#130 Struggler

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Posted 15 November 2012 - 07:38 PM

If you look up to the top post on this page you will see I have mentioned some have an issue with this exact problem.

As you say, taking a couple of mm off the bolt-up face should cure the problem.

Which caliper are you using ?

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#131 _stcos85_

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Posted 16 November 2012 - 12:09 PM

If you look up to the top post on this page you will see I have mentioned some have an issue with this exact problem.

As you say, taking a couple of mm off the bolt-up face should cure the problem.

Which caliper are you using ?

I am using the WB ali caliper

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#132 76lxhatch

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Posted 16 November 2012 - 12:29 PM

This is HZ (but should be the same aside from imperial vs metric fitting) and fits up fine:
Posted Image

I wonder if this difference with the stubs also causes a slight difference in offset?:
Posted Image

One is HZ and one is Torana but the concept applies equally to different HQ-WB and LH-UC Torana models. The one on the right is a bit dirty but you can see the area where the caliper mounts is not completely machined like the one on the left (because some caliper brackets don't need the whole area machined).

Is it possible that the different stubs which are set up for different calipers also have a bit of offset difference...? The pic above with the HZ caliper is on an HZ stub same as the one at left; if I'm looking in the right spot yours looks more like it has the mounting face with less machining like the right one?

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#133 _stcos85_

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Posted 16 November 2012 - 06:38 PM

I didnt think about the option of machining the mounting bracket rather than the carrier.

Is it wise to do it with a grinder as opposed to sending it to a machine shop. It only seems to need about 2mm or so off to get it to fit

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#134 ribz0

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Posted 16 November 2012 - 08:39 PM

Hey there mate...

Im not sure if this is what you mean but yes, you will have to grind a fair bit off... especially if you are useing torana stubs....

Posted Image

You will have to grind where the calliper bolts to the stub, the bit between the bolts (top pic), and you may need to grind the top face of the calliper mount so they match the bolt positions on the stub (bottom pic)...

Hope this helps... sorry if I'm not even close....

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#135 _Last-Rites_

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Posted 27 January 2013 - 09:01 PM

I am looking at doing an all round conversion to hq stud pattern so I can use the rims I bought for my hq which just came off the road. Will standard hq rims fit no worries by doing these conversions or do I need to modify the guards. Rims are 15x7 with 225 on front and 15x8 with 255 on rear.

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#136 TerrA LX

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Posted 28 January 2013 - 08:18 AM

HQ brake tutorial and you asking about what wheels fit the guards.
Maybe you better off starting a new thread in wheels and tyres.

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#137 _ohhgeee_

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Posted 27 February 2013 - 11:48 AM

ive read this tutorial afew times now (it is very informative and possibly the best thing on the forum ive read so far) and although its only mentioned once vaguely i would like to point out that if people want to change torana pattern to hq and dont want to spend money on brakes, therefore also happy to live with torana brakes then drilling hq pattern into blank torana discs is the quickest and easiest way to go.
machining down hq discs and fitting hq-wb calipers onto torana stubs is 2nd, although better and 3rd would be hq stubs, rotors and calipers but deal with bump steer which im not still too sure how bad it is..

also the fact that crs charges $250 for a bracket and requires you to supply drum stubs is not the best option imo since finding these drum stubs then convincing the guy to sell them to you is going to be the hardest part of the conversion apart from paying $250 for a bracket.

i have a family member that works in a place where they do laser cutting of steel and aluminium so if someone can let me borrow theyre "bracket" im pretty sure i can get them made for a lot less to help the torana family out.. (not trying to step on anyones shoes just trying to make this conversion cheaper for everyone)
not sure what the harrop a9x arm looks like but that also cant be too hard to make as long as u know the right people.

im sorry if i sound like im trying to undercut anybody because im not, not looking at making a single dollar, im just frustrated that even a simple brake upgrade has turned into a monopoly game owned by a handfull of people that seem to charge a unjustifiable amount.

hoppers quoted me $1300 odd for their 290mm kit... fair enough its a brand new kit and bolts on but $1300???? and $1400 odd for slotted...
is it just me or does this seem abit steep to others also??

if someone has an easy and good kit (i heard maybe the wise man we all turn to when things are beyond our simple minds, yes im talking about datto) for a reasonable price then by all means ill hand over my hard earned cash happily but giving into big companies because its easy isnt really helping anyone but them i reckon..

again sorry to let out some frustration, my torana got scratched last night thanks to a loose peice of galvanise sheet flying thanks to the freak weather we have been experiencing lately.

so does datto sell kits?? or have i heard wrong??

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#138 TerrA LX

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Posted 27 February 2013 - 12:13 PM

What's with spamming the HQ brake tutorial???

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#139 _ohhgeee_

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Posted 27 February 2013 - 05:00 PM

Im not spamming, not trying to make any money here.
I was just stating the obvious. Sorry if I was out of line.

So ive found out today that dba010u is rare as can be.

Datto u got any kits?

Also is a wb steering arm usable with a wb brake conversion??

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#140 Uncle Chop Chop

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Posted 27 February 2013 - 08:15 PM

AFAIK, there are 2 different HQ-WB steering arms. Long and short. I have a CRS drum brake stub conversion kit that is about to go on an HR, but you're not exactly local to me for you to measure it up.

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#141 _ohhgeee_

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Posted 27 February 2013 - 08:50 PM

Picked up wb girlock alloy calipers, discs, stub axle, steering arm pretty much all still attached together and first thing u will notice is that the steering arm is way too long compared to the torana so probably no good but I could be wrong..
Was told long steering is for non-power steering and short for cars with powersteering.
I can take pic if anyone needs to have a look.

I will now be following the rest of the torana family with hq pattern thanks to this thread

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#142 Toranamat69

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Posted 27 February 2013 - 09:23 PM

Also is a wb steering arm usable with a wb brake conversion??

It will bolt up but it is not correct for bump steer or turning circle.

Yes the short HQ to WB arms are for PS, the long for manual. Neither correct for Torana.

HQ stub with Harrop A9X steering arms

or

Torana stub with Torana steering arms. I would use UCs.

Any other combo is not correct.

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#143 _ohhgeee_

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Posted 01 March 2013 - 07:10 AM

Thanks for that mate..
Is the uc stub axle the same??
Or just use lx stub with uc arm??

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#144 Toranamat69

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Posted 01 March 2013 - 08:07 AM

UC and LX stub axles are the same.

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#145 _aussie too_

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 06:30 PM

I have installed the HQ discs and had them machined down the 6mm outside , but after grinding the calipers down to within a inch of there life, still cant get them to fit. (there hx girlock calipers).
Is there any way of getting the standard torana calipers to fit until I can sort out whats going wrong. Thinking maybe I will find some HQ pbr calipers.

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#146 TerrA LX

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 07:57 PM

^ Using Torana stub axles?

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#147 _aussie too_

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 08:05 PM

^ Using Torana stub axles?

Yep , UC torana stubs

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#148 TerrA LX

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 08:28 PM

Pretty sure, to get it all lined up, with Torana stubs, you need the torana calliper inner (the part that bolts to the stub, retrofitted to the similar PBS holden calliper outer (the sliding part).

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#149 _toranamadman_

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Posted 19 July 2013 - 10:26 PM

Sorry, I'll clarify..... take 6mm off the RADIUS of the discs. So about 12mm reduction in overall diameter.

If the discs are new then you will NOT have to machine the faces.

Again, sorry for not being clear enough. I knew what I was trying to say, just didn't put it across clearly enough.

Also as an aside, I have heard of others having issues with the caliper sitting centrally over the disc (some of them have posted in this thread). I honestly can't say why this is, perhaps different models have different disc offsets or something. Please check your particular application. What I have also heard is that 6cyl and pre-VL V8 commodore discs will work with NO modifications (they are the right diameter and offset). This may be an option if you want to use commodore stud pattern wheels.

Hope this helps and best of luck !

I followed up on the idea of early commodore brakes and worked out this idea could be a feasible one . To my idea this will only put your total track -20mm which is still legal . I'm going to find out whether the wheel bearings are the same . I know the stud pattern is still HQ but not sure about the hub .

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#150 _ljmaz_

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Posted 29 September 2013 - 03:02 AM

Hi, I installed the following brake conversion on my LJ Torana using LJ stubs, ground down & machined HQ discs and HX calipers. Cobra Craft in Sydney did the machining. Instal was straight forward. Car runs a warm V8 and stopping is a breeze with this set-up utilizing the XU1 brake booster.