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Performance Upgrade for V6

Started by _youngy_11_ , Jun 29 2007 03:27 PM

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44 replies to this topic

#1 _youngy_11_

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Posted 29 June 2007 - 03:27 PM

Hey,

Im fitting a V6 to my LX torana hatch and just been browsing on a few different sites looking at performance parts for the future.

Although it won't be for a while im just interested in your opinions of whats the best way to go about getting power out of a buick V6.

Supercharge,turbo, stroke it???

The engine has had a complete rebuild with minor performance add ons as im still on my p's.

So maybe 3-5 years down the track as i have spent all this time and money on getting the V6, rebuilding it and the conversion kit plus driveline, I would be looking at tricking it up a fair bit, rather than going for the usuall V8 scene.

Suggestions??

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#2 _dave720gtr_

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Posted 29 June 2007 - 03:35 PM

just slap one of them cheap jap c14 blowers on it 5-6 psi will sort it out
we just help this fell out who fitted one and it made it hammer for little cost $
no remaping we just fitted ford 250 efi injectors and cheap boost referenced fuel regulator :spoton:

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#3 _youngy_11_

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Posted 29 June 2007 - 05:06 PM

Yeah doesn't sound too bad ay,

Are you a fan of the powerchips???

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#4 rodomo

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Posted 29 June 2007 - 05:36 PM

Although it won't be for a while im just interested in your opinions of whats the best way to go about getting power out of a buick V6.

Are you talking Commodore V6 or Buick V6? as I don't think they are identical, but similar.
If you are talking Buick V6 I would look into availability of parts before I went too far into the project.

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#5 TerrA LX

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Posted 29 June 2007 - 07:29 PM

Most if not all motors respond to the same treatment the same way, i.e. forced induction, n2o, head and cam, stroking etc.

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#6 _Squarepants_

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Posted 29 June 2007 - 07:34 PM

How much have you got to spend? They respond well to head work, mind you , not as well as forced induction. Supercharging is more traditional for these engines, but I'd love to see a twin turbo getup for something a little different.
If you've got the money, go for all of the above and make a real weapon out of it!
Is it an ecotec engine? If so, you'd probably want forged pistons at least to run a blower of any kind.
If you're on a budget, I'd balance it, port it, extractor and exhaust it plus a new computer (and a dyno tune aswell, of course).
If you're on a tight budget, just a chip and exhaust.

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#7 _gmhgtr_

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Posted 29 June 2007 - 08:40 PM

it all depends on what you wanna' spend,
some people say with the V6's stroken' em' is ok for the low to mid range rev's soon as mid range and high hit in, it pushes the engine, some say blah only good for towing,
id say get a vortech if you have the $$ with a proper road tune, and a set of headers, but better to go the whole exhaust.
but yeah it all depends on how much you have to spend

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#8 _gmhgtr_

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Posted 29 June 2007 - 08:44 PM

id preffer one of them yella terra style super chargers too!

, drop a LS1 in there if you can and are going to spend the time, may aswell get the power of an 8 than working the lil 6.

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#9 _JBird_

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Posted 30 June 2007 - 05:30 PM

Force Induction Technologies Website

I don't think you should get a "powerchip" they're just lame.

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#10 _youngy_11_

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Posted 30 June 2007 - 05:48 PM

Yeah i seem to think the same,

With the stock chip could i get a dyno tune???

And whats involved??

Cheers

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#11 TerrA LX

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Posted 30 June 2007 - 05:58 PM

Stock chips cam be dynoed quite will so long as you dont have a race cam, usually they play with the fuel mixture ive changing the signal from the temp sensor ( a simple 20c resistor)
Whats involved is ringing around, booking it in and then dropping your car off on the designated day.

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#12 _JBird_

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Posted 30 June 2007 - 06:07 PM

Dyno time costs about $150/hr
Tuner fees are about the same. Will take a few hours depending on what you are getting done.

It's all worth it if your going forced induction as you can see an extra 50 rwhp just from tuning alone.

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#13 _gmhgtr_

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Posted 30 June 2007 - 07:11 PM

id go, exhaust, cam, maybe rockers, twin throttle pref. COME's one, tune the factory computer, on the dyno, then on a on road tune.
if you really want power it is just as easy to buy an LS1 with all the money you spend to get the 147-152Kw Ecotec (i pressume) to go alot harder, or alloytec 190kw...
but i see that you've all ready spent the hard yard on the ecotec so id stick with it, every little bit helps, even a new high energy oil pan!, and new hoses...
earls performance plumbing have some good stuff.
but in the end its all down to $$$...

Edited by gmhgtr, 30 June 2007 - 07:20 PM.

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#14 _gmhgtr_

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Posted 30 June 2007 - 07:16 PM

Yeah i seem to think the same,

With the stock chip could i get a dyno tune???

And whats involved??

Cheers

yep, its better than an exchange chip, dicks electronics (not dick smith electronics) have designed a much butter change over chip and is roughly $200, but id preffer a dyno/ orad tune of the factory computer, it takes the tuners abit longer but you get much more out of it, factory tune could be anywhere between $500-$1500. :spoton:

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#15 _MY-V6-OK_

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Posted 01 July 2007 - 10:56 AM

Its best instead of buying a chip just get your computer re-mapped on the dyno. I did this with a vr i had it was a stock engine with a bigger exhaust went a lot better and it cost me $600 to get this done ..

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#16 _youngy_11_

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Posted 01 July 2007 - 11:35 AM

Yeah, When the time comes ill ring around, im just getting rough ideas it will be another 10 months before it will be on the road. Maybe less.

Ive just got the extractors fitted andare going dual all the way through, with an X pipe set up in the middle.

Yes an alloytech or LS1 will produce more power to start with but you can get around 400hp outta a V6 with not massive upgrades.

cheers

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#17 _willo_

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Posted 02 July 2007 - 08:25 AM

i was thinking of one of these for my v6 what do you all reckon??? worth a go or just get the stock computer remapped??? http://www.starrperf...0-1333/Products

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#18 _[BOTTLEDUP]_

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Posted 02 July 2007 - 11:44 AM

Hang a turbo or two off it, and leave the engine alone. If its been rebuilt properly the standard engine won't have a problem with supporting 300+rwhp.

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#19 orangeLJ

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Posted 02 July 2007 - 12:50 PM

Old mans VU ute has an ecotech (different motor i know but same principle)

fitted a set of pacemaker extractors (had custom ones but sold them and CBF making new ones) full 2.5 inch exhaust, roller rockers and MSD 10mm leads. so not much really, and it goes like stink off a monkey! for such small upgrades it makes a whole lot of difference.

go with a terracharger if you want to go forced induction (after your Ps)

you can always change snouts and pulleys to increase the PSI when your ready to up the anti. they are quite a good little unit.

old mans ute will cop a cam and chip packege (from crower cams i do believe) at the end of this month (tax cheque baby!!)

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#20 _youngy_11_

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Posted 04 July 2007 - 04:01 PM

good example orangelj.

Yeah bottledup, the engine has been rebuilt properly with preety much everything replaced, honed + full service.

Any suggestions for the injectors??

Because we haven't got anything done with them yet.

Thanks

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#21 _Brewster_

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Posted 04 July 2007 - 11:36 PM

Hi Youngy, I have a street commodore magazine special collectors issue, and this guy has a stock ecotec engine with a Garret 600HP roller bearing turbo hanging off it. All he's done is put 660cc injectors in it, custom turbo manifold, front mount intercooler, Microtech LT8 computer and a two stage boost controller. At 7 psi he gets 276rwhp and at 12 psi he gets 356rwhp. The contact here in the article is Autotech Performance in Toowoomba. Hope it helps.

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#22 _Squarepants_

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Posted 05 July 2007 - 08:21 PM

More than 400 flywheel HP (300 rear wheel HP) will see the bottom end self destruct before too long. It will last for a while, but don't expect it to be a daily driver without it having issues after a little while.
I've got a mate who had a super charger on his VN, and has now replaced it with a hair dryer. Unsuer of the finer details but I'll get more info and let you know asap.

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#23 Heath

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Posted 05 July 2007 - 10:40 PM

More than 400 flywheel HP (300 rear wheel HP) will see the bottom end self destruct before too long.

Reasoning? Clearances not up to scratch? Certain weak components that you should replace? Oil starvation an issue? What's necessary to avoid these problems? A motor made in the 90s shouldn't need to be balanced or anything...