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202 Holden Turbo


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#26 Litre8

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Posted 03 August 2007 - 11:03 PM

And this setup made 380rwhp at only 16psi (strong to 25psi) and was my regular, but not daily, driver. Setup was an upgraded NGM Strata VI kit. Now if only EFI was readily available back then.....

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#27 _dave720gtr_

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Posted 04 August 2007 - 08:23 AM

I imagine that ^^ air fillter set up would of restricted the air flow some what !

with a 11= 6 high k/n fillter out the bonnet would of be nice :D but yer not legal

I was talking to US based turbo engineer and he was telling me that all the parts and kits to set up chev and ford engines as a draw through are still available
just most are going blow through carbi..these days
I found this pic in the turbo v8s in lx thread very basic, love it! no intercooler no poofy blow off valve :tease:
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Edited by dave720gtr, 04 August 2007 - 08:26 AM.


#28 Litre8

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Posted 04 August 2007 - 11:07 AM

Air filter sat nicely under A9x scoop. Actual cross section area of the aluminium air intake was quite large, would still run to 8000rpm and 25lbs boost in that configuration. With draw through there is no need for a blow off valve.

#29 Heath

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Posted 04 August 2007 - 11:31 AM

would still run to 8000rpm and 25lbs boost in that configuration.

What crank/rods/slugs did you have, and what did the oil system consist of? Musta been a decent sized cam as well...

#30 _just_matt_

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Posted 04 August 2007 - 12:13 PM

I am currently on the path of turboing a red 6.
186 + 202 pistons, custom 12port 161 head (because i got it next to nothing), blue efi manifold to suit, roller rockers, blue crank and rods, t04, custom exhaust manifold, high volume oil pump, oil cooler, v8 radiator, air-air intercooler. running thu a supra 5 speed.
im hoping for around 300-350hp@ f/w...

Im sticking with the 202 because parts are cheap and eaisly available, and i would rather keep the old school motor.
Jap motors dont belong in a torana, never have and never will :)

I purchased a strata 3 kit for $1500, but have decided to sell the kit complete because i am going EFI. If anyone is interested in the strata kit give us a yell, i am willing to sell for 1500. It has twin 1.75cd strombergs with a t04, w/external wastegate. PM me for pics/info.

-matt

#31 Heath

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Posted 04 August 2007 - 01:39 PM

v8 radiator

Holden or Chev? If Holden, what are you doing about the hoses?

#32 _just_matt_

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Posted 04 August 2007 - 01:54 PM

havent got a radiator as yet, so havent planned that part of the build.
is the differant position the only thing that needs to be worked around when using a v8 radiator and 6cyl?
question: can the 202 thermostat housing be simply turned around?
-matt

#33 Heath

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Posted 04 August 2007 - 02:27 PM

Can't be turned around, but I've wondered whether a V8 one will bolt on... i mean it looks like it would.

But what would you do about the bottom hose?

I wanna buy that alloy radiator from ZOOK because that will fit my motor, but I have no money. Perhaps you're a bit more wealthy atm? $550 i think, and that would be a nice radiator.

#34 _just_matt_

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Posted 04 August 2007 - 02:50 PM

that is a damn nice radiator at a nice price!
tax just came thu too, but i have to resist.
i cant put up my 4 speed any longer and im saving for the supra conversion.

#35 Litre8

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Posted 04 August 2007 - 04:46 PM

Tuftrided blue crank, B&M balancer, Harrop steel flywheel (dowelled), Carrilllo rods (SPS rod bolts), Arias forged pistons, Speco-Thomas solid turbo cam (from memory .5" lift, timing 46-86, 65-25), high volume pump (308 gears), dual remote filters, 34 row oil cooler, oil restrictors in push rods.

#36 Heath

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Posted 04 August 2007 - 06:19 PM

That is very impressive a very nice setup.

.5" lift... wow

#37 _dave720gtr_

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Posted 04 August 2007 - 07:30 PM

that is a damn nice radiator at a nice price!
tax just came thu too, but i have to resist.
i cant put up my 4 speed any longer and im saving for the supra conversion.

That sounds like it was a soild built 202 . very nice litre 8

matt ! start saving for a realy nice custom clutch and flywheel your going to need it!
The standed toyota or brass paddle type clutch plate , will not stand up to the torque ,even with a one tonner diaphragm.

#38 _fat-torrie_

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Posted 05 August 2007 - 05:52 PM

hi all, sorry about the wait i've been busy, i was looking at dooing this kind of setup for an every day driver, like run it on about 6-12psi of boost, just enough to have a bit of fun every now and then.

I can score a turbo, intake rail, exhaus manifold and yella terra head for $800, but has been sitting for a little while. i don;t know what im gonna do yet just getting some ideas in my head for a reasonable streeter.

Cheers
Troy

#39 Heath

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Posted 05 August 2007 - 06:24 PM

I'd get it. Chuck some 202 pistons into a 186, Stage 1 cam, clean the ports up in the YT head. Get some new springs, lifters, bearings, gaskets. Get the turbo rebuilt and clean everything else up yourself.

You should get some decent change from $5k...

#40 Litre8

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Posted 05 August 2007 - 10:41 PM

Better off using a specific turbo grind cam.

#41 Heath

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Posted 05 August 2007 - 11:07 PM

Better to intercool and inject it as well, but not necessary for this kind of application... a standard kinda mild performance cam will still work alright with this kind of setup wouldn't it? I was under the impression that it's only really crucial to get a forced-induction-specific cam when the overlap becomes an issue (i.e. a big N/A cam has a lot of overlap, but a standard or mild perf. one doesn't have nearly as much). Is that correct or are is that only a small part of the picture?

#42 Litre8

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Posted 06 August 2007 - 12:09 AM

Imho if you are going to the bother of putting in a new cam you may as well get one that is tailored to the application.

#43 _dave720gtr_

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Posted 06 August 2007 - 08:30 AM

yes but heath is talking about a back yard turbo setup using good second hand parts i think ..!
We put 9 psi with a little toyota c14 blower in to a 202 with a very lumpy 35/75 cam and it still works good .

ps a tip on the copper head shim ! martiy was telling me that he used hi temp spray on contact adhesive on both sides of the shim ,to stop it weeping water.
three bond is good, but this works and never leeked againe.




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