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RB25DET in UC torana coupe

Started by _studricho_ , Aug 03 2007 12:17 AM

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367 replies to this topic

#76 _studricho_

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Posted 09 May 2008 - 09:36 PM

More progress.

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Diff control arms blasted, boxed in, painted and new bushes.

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New bearing housing fitted and welded up.

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The boys working away using the tig to box up the brackets on the top of the diff.

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Hole for the connector rail.

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Connector rail going in.

Awaiting for the sway bar to arrive so Joe (Pro Fab) can weld a bracket to bolt the sway bar onto diff instead of the stupid u bolts that come with the kit.

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The place where my car is getting all this great work done.

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#77 _UNVSM8_

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Posted 09 May 2008 - 11:30 PM

at least now the diff will be properly done! looks good!

once this is all done whats next?

Ben

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#78 ls2lxhatch

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5,332 posts

Location:Perth
Car:LX Hatch
Joined: 29-May 06

Posted 10 May 2008 - 02:20 AM

Does anyone know how to fit a sway bar to the 9 inch in the UC? Do i need to weld brackets, If so I need to do it now.

K-MAC and Whiteline have a swaybar similar to the standard UC swaybar with optional U bolts to suit the 9". You should be able to buy the U bolts separately.

This is a picture of the K-MAC front mount rear swaybar temporarily fitted to a 9" in an LX. I was planning to weld brackets onto the diff instead of using the U bolts. I also recommend fitting a drain plug to the diff housing.

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#79 _studricho_

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Posted 10 May 2008 - 05:29 AM

^^^^Yep, I forgot to mention that the diff is also getting a drain plug.

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#80 _BoltZ_

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Posted 10 May 2008 - 01:32 PM

T1R tyres, very nice :spoton:

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#81 _youngy_11_

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Posted 12 May 2008 - 03:16 PM

Looks great Paul,

The work Joe is doing looks nearly identical that the work he has done on my hatch, it looks like we will have two very similar properly done hatches.

It is a good idea to weld the sway bar to the diff its a little late for me but im sure it will be fine.

Good stuff

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#82 _studricho_

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Posted 12 May 2008 - 05:19 PM

What are you up to on your car?

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#83 _youngy_11_

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Posted 13 May 2008 - 09:53 AM

Just finishing all under dash stuff now, the wiring on the engine is done and original torana wiring has been done.

Engine will go in soon, can't wait until UNI hols

.

Cheers

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#84 _studricho_

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Posted 15 May 2008 - 04:16 AM

Like i said, you can pick up my engine hoist anytime. It's sitting outside at the moment, no room in shed. I will not need for a while.

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#85 _studricho_

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Posted 15 May 2008 - 10:00 PM

Some people have asked me about my heater box and how it's been modified. Here's some pictures and measurements.

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#86 _UNVSM8_

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Posted 16 May 2008 - 07:55 AM

what did you use to create the shape? like material wise?

do u recon it will reduce the flow so much that it will have effect on your heater/aircon?

Ben

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#87 _studricho_

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Posted 17 May 2008 - 12:21 AM

My mate did for me and he said that he cut a wedge both sides then used a heat gun to shape the heater box the way it is. Then he used the wedge piece to plastic weld the straight part.

I have no ides about flow, I'll let you know.

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#88 _studricho_

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Posted 27 May 2008 - 08:16 PM

Tunnel all finished and painted. Just needs hole for gear stick and the brackets to hold console.

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Rear chassis connecting beams in, welded and painted.

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Diff in. I just need to save some funds for the rear caliper rebuild, different centre and getting some springs/sway bar and shocks painted.

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The amazing handy work of Joe from profab. He has turned my pull (clutch cable) clutch pedal to a push (hydraulic cylinder from R33) type system. He machined special bushes and it's all ready to go.

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#89 _UNVSM8_

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Posted 27 May 2008 - 08:19 PM

nice ur car has got the goods mate!

did u have much trouble hooking up the handbrake?

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#90 _studricho_

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Posted 27 May 2008 - 08:40 PM

nice ur car has got the goods mate!

did u have much trouble hooking up the handbrake?

The rear disc brake set up was on the car when i bought it. I'm pretty sure that the car was optioned with that along with a string of goodies on it.

I've just had brand new handbrake cables made for it. The olds ones were almost seized.

I did change the rear stud pattern so i used the HZ rear caliper reaction flange (what the torana caliper bolts to) and I'm using the HZ rear disc.

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#91 _studricho_

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Posted 30 May 2008 - 09:50 PM

I was able to reinstall the engine, gearbox and cross member tonight. I was amazed that i could do this by myself when it took about 4 of us to do it the first time.

I think having the rails sorted and straighten would of helped heaps.

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#92 _P51_

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Posted 30 May 2008 - 10:43 PM

Very nice stuff there matey......lots of good work happening.....be good to see it finished and tearing up the road....bet it will go like stink...... :spoton:

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#93 _dapperUC_

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Posted 31 May 2008 - 01:31 AM

Hello, just wondering is there any chances to get some photos from underneath on the diff install and the chassis support in front of the diff

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#94 _studricho_

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Posted 31 May 2008 - 09:12 PM

Very nice stuff there matey......lots of good work happening.....be good to see it finished and tearing up the road....bet it will go like stink......

Yeah, i will have to take it easy when the car is finished. I'd hate to lose the car for 3 months from this new anti hoon laws. My mate nearly lost his 04 SS 5.7L ute for going sideways around a corner today.

The only reason he kept the ute was that he had a very clean record.

Hello, just wondering is there any chances to get some photos from underneath on the diff install and the chassis support in front of the diff

What angle are you after? Maybe take a picture of your car and the exact area you want, then i can do the same.

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#95 _dapperUC_

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Posted 01 June 2008 - 02:31 AM

No worries i wont be back until next week i will send them through, it was where you have inserted the RH steel and how you have tied it in and the also the front diff mounts

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#96 _studricho_

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Posted 01 June 2008 - 07:57 AM

No worries i wont be back until next week i will send them through, it was where you have inserted the RH steel and how you have tied it in and the also the front diff mounts

I didn't do this myself, but i paid pro fab to do it for me. It was pricey, but when you see his work, it's the best around.

So you want me to take details pictures of what cost me heaps, so you can save money and do it yourself. Let me think about it, it's just not sitting right with me.

I'm sure there's many other people who have had it done aswell, but i haven't see a thread with detailed pictures on how to do it and save thousands.

Can you see where I'm coming from?

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#97 _dapperUC_

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Posted 01 June 2008 - 01:13 PM

Mate you have got the wrong idea i only want a few picks to see where the rails have been tied in and how it looks, i was looking at getting rid of my CRS ones and wanted to get a look on how others have been done as you said there is not many photo's of other ones around. I will be getting a fab shop to do it as you understand you cant afford to get this wrong its not a job for the light harted or inexperienced as there is quite a bit of science that goes into doing this properly.

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#98 _studricho_

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Posted 01 June 2008 - 01:43 PM

Mate you have got the wrong idea i only want a few picks to see where the rails have been tied in and how it looks, i was looking at getting rid of my CRS ones and wanted to get a look on how others have been done as you said there is not many photo's of other ones around. I will be getting a fab shop to do it as you understand you cant afford to get this wrong its not a job for the light harted or inexperienced as there is quite a bit of science that goes into doing this properly.

Now i get where you coming from. I get some better pictures up soon then.

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#99 _studricho_

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Posted 03 June 2008 - 08:52 PM

Great news!

They have finished all the chassis/mod work at pro fab. I just need to do some work on the car and it's back on all 4 wheels again. I just need this rain to stop and get it home.

Once the car is home it will really start to take shape very quickly. Everything has been held back cause you want the car as bare as possible when grinding/welding.

I took some pics, but i was so excited that they are out of focus.

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#100 _studricho_

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Posted 04 June 2008 - 09:26 PM

Motor and engine back in. I was concerned about how the gearbox would sit and how it would affect the motor. I'm so glad that I took my car to pro fab. They have done a perfect job.

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There's just enough clearance between the sump and the rack/crossmember on turbo side. These RB sumps have a weird slant.

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I took some pics from under the car while it was up on stands. This is looking from the rear and looking up at the passenger side. I had to modify the cross member so the oil dump pipe wouldn't hit.

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This is also looking from the rear, but at the drivers side. You can see how I had to use a elbow to move the oil pressure switch otherwise it would hit the turning knuckle. You will notic that the switch is from the UC sports dash.

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