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Sounds like just the right amount of progress - being able to drive it is a great motivator even if only 10 feet!
RB25DET in UC torana coupe
Started by
_studricho_
, Aug 03 2007 12:17 AM
367 replies to this topic
#152
_studricho_
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Posted 06 October 2008 - 07:42 AM
With no exhaust and a pvc pipe forming the inter cooler pipe i must be careful not to rev it too hard. It will also have no brakes apart from the handbrake.
#153
_studricho_
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Posted 06 October 2008 - 09:02 AM
My sparky had a great idea to mount the boost solenoid (R33 factory thing) to the air box. I think he said it controls the boost so no boost when it's cold...or something like that.
You can also se the big cock up from the beaters. I asked for a slight notch to clear the super charged pipe when I was playing with the RB30 supercharged idea. Imagine my surprise when I saw this. It was way too late as he wanted the car out, I was moving and wifey was suffering post natal at the time.
So yeah, not worth doing anything at the time. I think of it as a reminder to communicate clearer and also make sure what your plan is. Many of you guys know that I changed plans for engine half way through. I'm so glad I did.
I'll get a plate made and I can use it as a plaque to thank all that involved in project. Not sure yet.
I just love this angle...This car will be kind of a wolf in sheep's clothing, don't you think?
#154
_mumstaxi_
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Posted 06 October 2008 - 11:17 AM
At least your "Beater" did a great job on the rest of the car (looks like it from the pic's anyway) ,and sure you will have it looking awsome when it is all finished.
On my LX Hatch i owned years ogo i made stainless steel cover plates to sit on top of the chassis rails ,i had them run the full lenth of the rails because i had a brake fluid leak that destroyed the paint under the booster area and i did not want to re-paint the whole engine bay.
Maybe you could do something along those lines to hide your "cut-out" as it actually looked better "with" than without the cover plates,even compared to when the paint was all good !
Interested to see what you end up with regard to your intercooler mounting/size etc
MT
On my LX Hatch i owned years ogo i made stainless steel cover plates to sit on top of the chassis rails ,i had them run the full lenth of the rails because i had a brake fluid leak that destroyed the paint under the booster area and i did not want to re-paint the whole engine bay.
Maybe you could do something along those lines to hide your "cut-out" as it actually looked better "with" than without the cover plates,even compared to when the paint was all good !
Interested to see what you end up with regard to your intercooler mounting/size etc
MT
#155
_studricho_
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Posted 06 October 2008 - 12:31 PM
Yippee! the thread title has changed. Thanks mod...who ever you are.
I'm running the standard inter cooler for the time being and it's actually installed just under the rail...hang on I'll get a picture..
Temporary pipes made that run down to the inter cooler. I want to run the standard just to make the hole rego thing easy. Also it adds to the sleeper look.
I have this inter cooler on an angle to help with cooler also allows heaps of clearance for both pipes to clear air con unit and the front tire.
I do like the plate idea, that was my plan.
I made the bracket so it bolts up to either side of the bumper bare bracket. It's easy enough to get to and remove if I need to remove bumper bar.
I'm running the standard inter cooler for the time being and it's actually installed just under the rail...hang on I'll get a picture..
Temporary pipes made that run down to the inter cooler. I want to run the standard just to make the hole rego thing easy. Also it adds to the sleeper look.
I have this inter cooler on an angle to help with cooler also allows heaps of clearance for both pipes to clear air con unit and the front tire.
I do like the plate idea, that was my plan.
I made the bracket so it bolts up to either side of the bumper bare bracket. It's easy enough to get to and remove if I need to remove bumper bar.
#156
_P51_
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Posted 06 October 2008 - 12:41 PM
Great work......it looks OEM......you cant ask for more than that........
#157
enderwigginau
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Posted 06 October 2008 - 12:52 PM
Where are you putting the battery and charcoal canister?
And washer bottle?
Grant..
And washer bottle?
Grant..
#158
_studricho_
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Posted 06 October 2008 - 02:45 PM
Where are you putting the battery and charcoal canister?
And washer bottle?
Grant..
Battery has been in boot for years. The charcoal canister was where the inter cooler is. I should be able to fit the R33 one in the same place as it is tiny compare to the 1 litre milo tin holden one.
The washer bottle has been living under the other side similar to where I've mounted the inter cooler. I did this years ago and use the original hole that the charcoal canister sat in the engine bay to fill up the bottle. I have a rubber bung to stop junk getting into it.
What you see apart from brake booster/cylinder/lines and bonnet cable is all that goes in my engine bay.
#159
_mumstaxi_
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Posted 06 October 2008 - 03:18 PM
NICE !
Sleeper for sure ,well i could not see a intercooler at all ,and id like to think i know what i was looking for in this case.
Don't you just love the Digital age ,oh ill just take a pic and 5min's later we can all see !
Was going to be putting my charcoal can underneath as well,(who wants to see that ugly thing)
MT
Sleeper for sure ,well i could not see a intercooler at all ,and id like to think i know what i was looking for in this case.
Don't you just love the Digital age ,oh ill just take a pic and 5min's later we can all see !
Was going to be putting my charcoal can underneath as well,(who wants to see that ugly thing)
MT
#160
_studricho_
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Posted 06 October 2008 - 07:37 PM
I was having a look and the R33 is so small I could bolt near the air filter box and you wouldn't pick it. I just need to get some bike repair work back log out of the way and then Torana time.
I've scanned some original pictures of the car...did you want to see?
I've scanned some original pictures of the car...did you want to see?
#161
_UNVSM8_
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Posted 06 October 2008 - 07:40 PM
I've scanned some original pictures of the car...did you want to see?
yes please
#162
_studricho_
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Posted 06 October 2008 - 08:12 PM
My first Torana. UC 4 door. Mildy worked six with 350 holley and auto...You have to start somewhere..
This was taken only a few days after I bought my hatch. This was back in 1991. I used to smoke too much drugs that's why I looked skinny. Don't touch the stuff and haven't for 14 years. This was the original colour too.
This was the main reason for the hatch. Awesome camping car. This is also why I had to stop the drugs. Often I'd crash out and miss out on all the fun..I had issues.
There's more, but I haven't scan them yet...
#163
_studricho_
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Posted 07 October 2008 - 03:06 PM
I just ordered my tail shaft. Should be ready in a day or 2....
#164
_studricho_
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Posted 08 October 2008 - 08:24 PM
Gee the tail shaft guy was quick. Called me today and he said it was ready. I only dropped off the uni's and measurements to him yesterday at about 11am. He called me at 10.30 am to let me know it was done...
Anyway, tail shaft in and I made a new clutch pipe from the clutch cylinder to the slave and clutch is working. I also picked up some VYSS 17" rims and tires. 2 tires are nearlly new and the other 2 need replacing. There's a few scratches of the rims, but for $320 for the set, how do you complain?
Here's a sneak peak at what it looks like on...I should be able to drive the car out of the shed under it's own power. That is progress. Can you tell that I'm excited?
I wasn't sure at first, but I really like the rims and the colour now...you like?
Anyway, tail shaft in and I made a new clutch pipe from the clutch cylinder to the slave and clutch is working. I also picked up some VYSS 17" rims and tires. 2 tires are nearlly new and the other 2 need replacing. There's a few scratches of the rims, but for $320 for the set, how do you complain?
Here's a sneak peak at what it looks like on...I should be able to drive the car out of the shed under it's own power. That is progress. Can you tell that I'm excited?
I wasn't sure at first, but I really like the rims and the colour now...you like?
#165
_UNVSM8_
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Posted 08 October 2008 - 11:08 PM
they look grate mate! really fill the guards similar to what i want to do with mine!
tail shafts mustn't take long as mine was ready in less than a day aswell!
keep up the good work
Ben
tail shafts mustn't take long as mine was ready in less than a day aswell!
keep up the good work
Ben
#166
_mumstaxi_
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Posted 09 October 2008 - 01:13 AM
Yeh, 1 day tail shaft here too !
Man those wheels look good ,class but not to wan-key.
MT
Man those wheels look good ,class but not to wan-key.
MT
#167
Posted 09 October 2008 - 09:32 AM
In general I dislike all wheels over 15 or 16 inches on older cars. I can't count the number of times I've looked at a car and thought 'nice but pity about the wheels'. But in this instance I'm pleased to say that with the colour and general style of the car, those wheels look good! I'd be curious to see what they look like on the front, and do they clear? It would be a shame to have to put ridiculously low profile tyres on them and ruin the look.
#168
_studricho_
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Posted 09 October 2008 - 09:46 AM
In general I dislike all wheels over 15 or 16 inches on older cars. I can't count the number of times I've looked at a car and thought 'nice but pity about the wheels'. But in this instance I'm pleased to say that with the colour and general style of the car, those wheels look good! I'd be curious to see what they look like on the front, and do they clear? It would be a shame to have to put ridiculously low profile tyres on them and ruin the look.
I had a quick trial fit on the front, but the suspension is hanging down and it hits the ball joint and the upper control arm on full lock.
I will jack up the front suspension and then check all the clearances again. I will gradually lower the suspension and keep checking the clearance.
What are the rules on spacers? Also if it clears all areas with weight on the suspension, but fowls only when no weight is on, what will be the go there. Under normal driving conditions I don't think it will ever see the suspension all the way down like the car is jacked up now.
I'll keep you posted as that is my mission today.
#169
_studricho_
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Posted 09 October 2008 - 11:52 PM
Didn't get much done today. Back was playing up and I've picked up some virus. I did manage to drop the car on the ground and play with the front rims. The front rims just clears the ball joint, but it hits the upper control arm just off full lock.
I put about 5mm of washes to space the wheel out that seems to be the right amount to clear the upper control on lock. Very hard to hold the steering on full lock and check the clearance. My sparky is coming tomorrow and I'll get him to help me.
If I get spacer I will have to get longer studs correct?
Any info would be good.
I put about 5mm of washes to space the wheel out that seems to be the right amount to clear the upper control on lock. Very hard to hold the steering on full lock and check the clearance. My sparky is coming tomorrow and I'll get him to help me.
If I get spacer I will have to get longer studs correct?
Any info would be good.
#170
Posted 10 October 2008 - 09:28 AM
Sounds like the Commodore offset is giving you grief - what hubs/brakes do you have on the front (obviously not Torana)? I wonder if a Hoppers style hub adapter that sits out further is available?
#171
_studricho_
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Posted 10 October 2008 - 12:29 PM
The sparky has finished his work under the bonnet, so now I can start doing whatever I need in the engine bay.
The car drove very well and smooth. There was so tire skip and I think it's due to the old rack up front that stuff.
I can't get over how good the car looks and how close it is to being finished....
And the picture....
I'm running VB vented disc and the HZ girlock calipers...
The car drove very well and smooth. There was so tire skip and I think it's due to the old rack up front that stuff.
I can't get over how good the car looks and how close it is to being finished....
And the picture....
I'm running VB vented disc and the HZ girlock calipers...
#172
Posted 10 October 2008 - 12:31 PM
Which of the two most recent pics is a more accurate representation of the colour? They are quite different. Wheels look good on front too.
#173
_studricho_
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Posted 10 October 2008 - 12:46 PM
Which of the two most recent pics is a more accurate representation of the colour? They are quite different. Wheels look good on front too.
That's the beauty of the is colour. It's made using a solid white, transparent green and blue, so it will change appearance/colour depending on the light.
I'll take a picture of car in the late afternoon and it appears to glow. When I use to get petrol at night under the service station fluro lights it looks green. I've had a few people ask me what green is it.
If someone had some specs on the hopper stopper adapter/part number and price that would be worth looking into.
I'm going to give shannons a call regarding this about whether it will affect the insurance of the car.
#174
_Chriskoss-79uc_
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Posted 10 October 2008 - 02:19 PM
Mate those VY rims looks so good on the UC. I have the same make and model as you and now I'm so tempted to get out a loan from the old man and change stud patterns. The car is lovely.. can't wait to see some full pics of it.
#175
Posted 10 October 2008 - 03:12 PM
I don't know if there is a part number but I'm thinking now that it would move the brake disc and require spacing the caliper off the mounts to compensate so perhaps not that easy after all.If someone had some specs on the hopper stopper adapter/part number and price that would be worth looking into.
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