I have spoken to Pete from Hoppers and he says to run 15 inch Simmons you get 8mm spacers so the bolts don't hit the calipers.Marty I hope you dont plan on running those 15" simmons with the hoppers kit?
s
My crossmember rebuild
Started by
_QIKSLR_
, Jan 29 2006 09:29 AM
37 replies to this topic
#26
StephenSLR
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Posted 03 February 2006 - 06:53 AM
s
#27
_QIKSLR_
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Posted 03 February 2006 - 10:50 AM
M@;
Thanks for the info mate. So it definatly sounds like I'm better off going with HQ stubs with the A9X steering arms. I will definatly take you up on the sketch. I've been playing around with autocad myself and i love it. I'm not sure on the front wheel specs. I've got the rear end completly sorted, but the fronts are still wrong. They were off an HQ so the front's sit in too far. I'm pretty sure I will be able to make up the track with fatter tyres, otherwise I may need wider outers. I've never actually had the front wheels fitted at the same time as the flares, so I'm not sure. I'm pretty sure that there is no backspacing on them (4"outer/4"inner).
LS1LX;
I had heard the same as what Stephen said about the spacers. As I said above, I need all the track I can get, so pushing the wheels out with a spacer should help the situation, providing it doesn't throw the geometry out.
Stephen;
I'm in Sydney mate. I wont be sending much away to get done. The only thing I can think of is getting the bushes pressed in and out. I'll be buying the balljoints from repco and fitting myself and Robbos Spares in Blacktown can hook me up with an exchange steering rack, I was told about $180 from memory.
Marty
Thanks for the info mate. So it definatly sounds like I'm better off going with HQ stubs with the A9X steering arms. I will definatly take you up on the sketch. I've been playing around with autocad myself and i love it. I'm not sure on the front wheel specs. I've got the rear end completly sorted, but the fronts are still wrong. They were off an HQ so the front's sit in too far. I'm pretty sure I will be able to make up the track with fatter tyres, otherwise I may need wider outers. I've never actually had the front wheels fitted at the same time as the flares, so I'm not sure. I'm pretty sure that there is no backspacing on them (4"outer/4"inner).
LS1LX;
I had heard the same as what Stephen said about the spacers. As I said above, I need all the track I can get, so pushing the wheels out with a spacer should help the situation, providing it doesn't throw the geometry out.
Stephen;
I'm in Sydney mate. I wont be sending much away to get done. The only thing I can think of is getting the bushes pressed in and out. I'll be buying the balljoints from repco and fitting myself and Robbos Spares in Blacktown can hook me up with an exchange steering rack, I was told about $180 from memory.
Marty
Edited by QIKSLR, 03 February 2006 - 10:53 AM.
#28
Dangerous
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Posted 03 February 2006 - 01:41 PM
Yep, I've 'porta-powered' a few LH/LX front ends to get them back into spec because they'd sagged. Offhand I can't remember the specs, but I recall that the measurements for the chassis rails (including the holes for the front suspension) are either in the original LH manual in the 'body' section, or that I worked them out based on the measurements in the manual.G'day guys,
I have wanted to get a few people to check something for me on their Torana front subframes - should be useful info to all as well.
I have heard these front subframes were prone to bending. Just wondering what measurement your front subframes are across the top mounting holes (centre to centre) where the subframe bolts to the chassis.
#29
_CHOPPER_
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Posted 03 February 2006 - 05:38 PM
I have those measurements in front of me. However, it's not for the ones we have been comparing. The specs are for the nuts that hold the bumper bar bracket. They come to 790.0 MM from the factory.
#30
_rorym_
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Posted 23 January 2007 - 09:24 PM
Great! NOT!..My UC 4 cyl front measures 785mmF 790MM r...what next? OK..Rechecked..at the top of the pins...and 792f and 794mmr at the holes..whew!!..had panic there for a while
R
R
R
R
Edited by rorym, 23 January 2007 - 09:31 PM.
#31
StephenSLR
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Posted 24 January 2007 - 11:25 AM
Why are you removing the mount for the steering knuckle shroud and removing the steering bush?re-drill the upper control arm mounts and inch lower as per the A9Xs and remove the steering bush.
I've redrilled the upper control arm mounts and ground off the mount for the steering nuckle shroud.
Oh yeah the LX has a steering ratio of 18:1,
the UC 20:1,
the A9X 25:1
You can tell which box you have by the numbers on them, I'm sure someone here will post them.
s
#32
_rorym_
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Posted 28 January 2007 - 02:40 PM
Thanks Steve...UC one looks the goods again.
R
R
#33
StephenSLR
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Posted 16 February 2007 - 11:26 AM
I notice they are bolted in. My ball joints have rivets, are these going to be a drama to remove when necessary?Here is a pic of the upper balljoint in my LX - these are the Repco upper type.
#34
TerrA LX
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Posted 16 February 2007 - 12:07 PM
^ 4" angle grinder removes the rivets but the uppers very rarely wear, i would only replace them if they show signs of wear or the boots have been letting in dirt and crap.
#35
_rorym_
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Posted 16 February 2007 - 02:53 PM
Cheap as chips...do them anyway if the front end is out.
R
R
#36
_rorym_
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Posted 16 February 2007 - 03:05 PM
So the higher the number the quicker the ratio>?..I thought it was the other way?Oh yeah the LX has a steering ratio of 18:1,
the UC 20:1,
the A9X 25:1
R
#37
StephenSLR
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Posted 16 February 2007 - 07:20 PM
I took the control arms to the mechanic to have the bushes removed and he said the ball joints looked ok and didn't think they needed replacing.Cheap as chips...do them anyway if the front end is out.
R
I just thought it would make it a hell of a lot easier to have bolt in ones should they fail later on.
s
#38
Statler
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Posted 05 March 2007 - 04:45 PM
Can i ask a couple of quick questions?
I thought the top control arm mounting holes were HIGHER on the UC?
When used with the UC top control arms, instant A9X?
Why would you re drill the mount holes lower? LH/LX pre RTS?
I thought the top control arm mounting holes were HIGHER on the UC?
When used with the UC top control arms, instant A9X?
Why would you re drill the mount holes lower? LH/LX pre RTS?
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