I have the PBR Alloy calipers with Torana stamped on them. Big piston, flexes really bad and is bad overall. I took them apart sometime ago to get the calipers sand blasted because they kept seizing, now I'm putting them back together because I need to get the brakes working so I can load it onto a truck for transportation. I've had these calipers apart for so long, I can't remember how it goes back together. I found a pic of the caliper, so now I've got some questions.
How does the anti rattle spring go back on? And is the one that comes with the overhaul kit the right one?
Does the O rings that come with the seals sit between the two housings?
And what is the correct position of the guide pins? Socket head down, or on top?
And pics would be great, thanks!
Help with PBR Alloy Calipers
Started by
_Brewster_
, Sep 23 2007 12:35 PM
15 replies to this topic
#2
_Brewster_
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Posted 23 September 2007 - 02:18 PM
Ok, just to clarify, this is the type of caliper I have, thanks for the pic, Dattoman.
Disregard the question about the orings, the two halves of the caliper when disassembled is just a flush mating surface, so there is no room for any oring, it must be used on another caliper.
Are the position of the two guide pins/rods, at the bottom of the caliper correct?
And, at the moment, I've got pads sitting in them, but not sure where the anti rattle spring/clip goes, if it has one at all?
Thanks
#3
_Brewster_
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Posted 23 September 2007 - 02:40 PM
To make the explanation of my drama's a bit easier, here is the pic of that spring/clip that I was supplied. God knows where the old ones are.
#5
_Brewster_
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Posted 23 September 2007 - 04:14 PM
Disregard the anchor/guide pin, the recessed one goes on the bottom, to clear the tie rod!
All thats left now is that anti rattle spring...
I don't get it how it goes on!
All thats left now is that anti rattle spring...
I don't get it how it goes on!
#6
dattoman
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Posted 23 September 2007 - 05:48 PM
I left them off Tinks car cause I couldn't remember either
#7
_Brewster_
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Posted 23 September 2007 - 06:01 PM
Thanks for the reply Datto, I was starting to think I was all alone in this little world!! 
Doesn't Tinkers get brake squeal or rattles when he brakes?
After hours of frustration, I think I'm onto it, does this look right? Does it jog anybody's memory?
Unfortunately, the ol gregory's displays the picture of the cast iron brake caliper DAMN IT!!!
If this is the right way, then 3 questions....
Which end does the spring clip go, left or right, ( top or bottom when the caliper is mounted )
Is it upside down? does the end with the two legs go towards the centre of the pad, or towards the caliper?
And there are 2 of them, is that one for each pad? Or both on one pad?
Doesn't Tinkers get brake squeal or rattles when he brakes?After hours of frustration, I think I'm onto it, does this look right? Does it jog anybody's memory?
Unfortunately, the ol gregory's displays the picture of the cast iron brake caliper DAMN IT!!!If this is the right way, then 3 questions....
Which end does the spring clip go, left or right, ( top or bottom when the caliper is mounted )
Is it upside down? does the end with the two legs go towards the centre of the pad, or towards the caliper?
And there are 2 of them, is that one for each pad? Or both on one pad?
#8
ReplicarSLR
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Posted 23 September 2007 - 06:48 PM
Picture is correct, closed end of clip on the bracket as you have it and the clips go on the upper ends of the pads.
#9
_Brewster_
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Posted 23 September 2007 - 07:03 PM
You Legend ReplicaSLR!!!! Thank you very much!
#10
_Brewster_
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Posted 23 September 2007 - 10:47 PM
After all that rootin around today, they didn't bleed up, GOD DAMN IT!!! 
The piston on both calipers are fully to the rear, ( off position ), shouldn't the caliper still be able to be gravity bleed? I also used a Brake bleeding gun, proper one from Repco and air compressor and that didn't pull a drop out either!!!
I bled the back brakes no drama's. Looks like I'll have to take the calipers off...AGAIN!!!
Any ideas?
The piston on both calipers are fully to the rear, ( off position ), shouldn't the caliper still be able to be gravity bleed? I also used a Brake bleeding gun, proper one from Repco and air compressor and that didn't pull a drop out either!!!
I bled the back brakes no drama's. Looks like I'll have to take the calipers off...AGAIN!!!
Any ideas?
#11
rodomo
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Posted 23 September 2007 - 11:33 PM
Have you mounted the calipers with the bleeder at the top?
Did you "bench bleed" the master?
Did you "bench bleed" the master?
#12
_Brewster_
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Posted 24 September 2007 - 11:53 PM
Yes, calipers are mounted with the bleed nipples at the top.
No, I didn't bench bleed the m/cylinder..
I'm onto it.
I found out today, because I was just curious, a minor PBR overhaul kit for the m/cylinder was $130 and a complete new m/cylinder from PBR was $140, go figure
No, I didn't bench bleed the m/cylinder..
I'm onto it.
I found out today, because I was just curious, a minor PBR overhaul kit for the m/cylinder was $130 and a complete new m/cylinder from PBR was $140, go figure
#13
_v8slrtorana_
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Posted 25 September 2007 - 01:56 PM
Need a hand? Prehaps i can pop around.
Just PM if you need any help.
Just PM if you need any help.
#15
_Brewster_
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Posted 30 September 2007 - 10:35 PM
I didn't get it to bleed right, you can bench bleed the master with it still on the car right? Take both brake lines off, cover up the ports and slowly depress the brake pedal to squeez out the air? Right? Or am I wrong?
I cracked the lines starting from the master, then the proportioning valve, which I reset, then the top of the lines, then nothing. I ended up replacing the brake hoses as there was no fluid coming out the end of them.
I put it down to build up of scale as I left the lines off for awhile. Got the fluid through no worries, bled the system with the vacuum gun, and its still really sloppy, which means there's still heaps of air in there, damn it!
I also had to overhaul the carby, as it pissed out fuel when I turned on the electric fuel pump to turn the old girl over, its sorted now, atleast I successfully fixed something!
I cracked the lines starting from the master, then the proportioning valve, which I reset, then the top of the lines, then nothing. I ended up replacing the brake hoses as there was no fluid coming out the end of them.
I put it down to build up of scale as I left the lines off for awhile. Got the fluid through no worries, bled the system with the vacuum gun, and its still really sloppy, which means there's still heaps of air in there, damn it!
I also had to overhaul the carby, as it pissed out fuel when I turned on the electric fuel pump to turn the old girl over, its sorted now, atleast I successfully fixed something!
#16
tinkers
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Posted 04 October 2007 - 04:43 PM
No SHE doesn't.Thanks for the reply Datto, I was starting to think I was all alone in this little world!!
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