So how do i adjust them? as i think this could be the reason my engine wouldnt start a while back. i want to get everything spot on before trying again.
Thanx,
nathan
Edited by ToranaZ, 05 February 2006 - 10:45 AM.
Adjusting YT Roller rocker
Started by
_UCV80_
, Feb 05 2006 10:44 AM
26 replies to this topic
#1
_UCV80_
_UCV80_
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Posted 05 February 2006 - 10:44 AM
Ok... firstly can someone confirm these are adjustables? people say they are, then others say there not, they bolt down to the stud and have an allen key bold in the center. Part number YT5007
So how do i adjust them? as i think this could be the reason my engine wouldnt start a while back. i want to get everything spot on before trying again.
Thanx,
nathan
So how do i adjust them? as i think this could be the reason my engine wouldnt start a while back. i want to get everything spot on before trying again.
Thanx,
nathan
#2
_CHOPPER_
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Posted 05 February 2006 - 12:51 PM
YT 5007 are the adjustable ones. I had them myself. The initial adjustment is done with the engine off. Get cylinder #1 to TDC on compression stroke. Easy way to check is that the rotor button will be pointing to #1 lead. Back the rockers off til they are loose, then tighten them 3/4 of a turn. Repeat for each cylinder. This is the initial setting done. Start the car and let it run for a couple of minutes. Starting at the front. Back each one off until noisy, then preload to spec. There are hundreds of stories on how to correctly adjust them. The stories range from adjust til they are quiet, to giving them 1.5 turns of preload. I suggest 1/2 to 3/4 turn of pre load. Some manufacturors recommend more or less.
#3
_Hotday_
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Posted 05 February 2006 - 02:10 PM
I agree with CHOPPER on the way to adjust them. I just want to add something. With the motor going back off each rocker in turn till they start making a noise and then wind the nut down until it stops. Dont preload them at this stage because if you get a sticky cam follower that doesn,t bleed down quickly you just might have a piston hitting a valve. Adjust all rockers in turn then stop engine and preload them all one complete turn. By the time you get the tappet cover on and wash down all the splashed oil the motor will be ready to start up again.
This is how we done it in the GMH garage back in the 70's.
Hotday
This is how we done it in the GMH garage back in the 70's.
Hotday
#4
_smiley_
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Posted 05 February 2006 - 02:25 PM
Just another add on,
I went in the 80`s an got and old tappet cover and cut out the top and put it on when doing adjusments,this saves alot of clean up a the end of the job.
Just a tip
I went in the 80`s an got and old tappet cover and cut out the top and put it on when doing adjusments,this saves alot of clean up a the end of the job.
Just a tip
#5
_CHOPPER_
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Posted 05 February 2006 - 02:53 PM
I like the idea of the vented rocker cover.
#6
_smiley_
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Posted 05 February 2006 - 02:59 PM
Works a treat
Actually it was from my Fathers saloon car days and we used it at the garage also
Actually it was from my Fathers saloon car days and we used it at the garage also
#7
_draglc_
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Posted 05 February 2006 - 09:01 PM
depends if your cam is hydraulic or solid, if its hyd, then the way chopper said is correct, if solid, then you have to do it a completely different way. Not hard, just takes a bit of practice. I have posted how to do it before, in a previous thread, though youd probably never find it.
A1
A1
#8
_CHOPPER_
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Posted 05 February 2006 - 09:04 PM
If it's solid, you also need a set of feeler guages and the hot lash setting. These can also be set with the engine running but if it's your first time, turn the engine off before opening the tool box.
#9
_82911_
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Posted 05 February 2006 - 09:57 PM
Chop...
How on earth do you set valve lash on a solid profile with the engine running????
This I gotta hear....
Cheers Greg..
How on earth do you set valve lash on a solid profile with the engine running????
This I gotta hear....
Cheers Greg..
#10
_CHOPPER_
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Posted 05 February 2006 - 10:00 PM
I learnt that trick back in the 80's on a Gemini. Obviously won't work on all engines though.
#11
_82911_
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Posted 05 February 2006 - 10:44 PM
Is that the old... wind it down till the lifters go quiet method???
I had a mental image of you over a hot rocker box full of spewing oil with a feeller gauge (squshed) in one hand and a 9/16 ring spanner in the other, guess you would have had the allen key in your other hand!!!
Hense my question.. on how do you do it??
Do you have 3 hands.....
Cheers Greg..
I had a mental image of you over a hot rocker box full of spewing oil with a feeller gauge (squshed) in one hand and a 9/16 ring spanner in the other, guess you would have had the allen key in your other hand!!!
Hense my question.. on how do you do it??
Do you have 3 hands.....
Cheers Greg..
#12
rodomo
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Posted 05 February 2006 - 10:46 PM
A lot of older engines were specified "hot running" on the valve clearances. Its not that difficult and is done by "feel". Knocks around your feeler guages a bit though.
RACV MAN
RACV MAN
#13
_82911_
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Posted 05 February 2006 - 11:09 PM
Sorry I'm too clumsy for that I'd end up sticking my finger in a vave spring or something....Ouch. 
Cheers Greg..
Cheers Greg..
#14
_CHOPPER_
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Posted 06 February 2006 - 05:28 PM
rodomo got it right. One person slides the feeler guage in, the other person has the screwdriver and spanner ( for the gemini we did ). When the feeler guage starts to grab, lock it up and move to the next one. The good thing about the Gemini is it didn't spit oil every where, it sort of just dribbled out.
#15
_SSHatch_
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Posted 06 February 2006 - 05:51 PM
I am a little confused on how you can get an acurate measurement with feeler gauges when the engine is running!!
The clearances are measuered on the backside of the cam and when it rotates there is obviously no clearance or the valves would never open.
So I fail to see how you could possibly ever set clearances with a set of feeler gauges on a running engine.
That is unless you can insert the feeler gauges 400 times per minute!! At the exact time that the cam is in the correct position.
Hydraulic lifters, yeahp, not a problem using the above mentioned method of turning down till no noise etc but solid lifters that require a set clearance, no way is it possible to be done with a running engine using feeler gauges!!
The clearances are measuered on the backside of the cam and when it rotates there is obviously no clearance or the valves would never open.
So I fail to see how you could possibly ever set clearances with a set of feeler gauges on a running engine.
That is unless you can insert the feeler gauges 400 times per minute!! At the exact time that the cam is in the correct position.
Hydraulic lifters, yeahp, not a problem using the above mentioned method of turning down till no noise etc but solid lifters that require a set clearance, no way is it possible to be done with a running engine using feeler gauges!!
#16
_CHOPPER_
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Posted 06 February 2006 - 06:13 PM
The feeler was inserted between the valve and the rocker. I was a first year apprentice at the time and it was the first time I adjusted ( with help ) a solid cammed engine that way. 23 years later, I still haven't adjusted another one that way.
#17
_Hotday_
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Posted 06 February 2006 - 06:53 PM
Dont be confused SSHATCH, You can sucessfully adjust a solid lifter camshaft clearance gap with the motor running.
You are right the clearances are measured on the back of the cam . Now when a feeler gauge is inserted in between the valve stem and rocker arm it in fact measures that clearance referred to as "back of the cam".
With the motor running and the feller guage left in between the valve stem and the rocker arm with 'EXPERIENCE' you get a feel if the gap is to tight of loose. You then adjust is accordingly.
If you go back to the old grey sideplate Holden motor they were in fact a solid lifter camshaft and people didn't have trouble adjusting them with the motor running.
When you watch a machinist measure crankshaft journals with a micrometer they twist it in and out till they get the right ammount of resistance with the micrometer and that ends up being the journal size. You can only get this with 'EXPERIENCE'
Having said this there is another way of adjusting the gaps with the motor stopped.. Its a long story but it starts with , have the rockers on No 6 cyclinder rocking and adjust No 1 cyclinder gap. Then have rockers on No 2 cyclinder rocking and adjust No 5 gap. More later if needed. HOTDAY
You are right the clearances are measured on the back of the cam . Now when a feeler gauge is inserted in between the valve stem and rocker arm it in fact measures that clearance referred to as "back of the cam".
With the motor running and the feller guage left in between the valve stem and the rocker arm with 'EXPERIENCE' you get a feel if the gap is to tight of loose. You then adjust is accordingly.
If you go back to the old grey sideplate Holden motor they were in fact a solid lifter camshaft and people didn't have trouble adjusting them with the motor running.
When you watch a machinist measure crankshaft journals with a micrometer they twist it in and out till they get the right ammount of resistance with the micrometer and that ends up being the journal size. You can only get this with 'EXPERIENCE'
Having said this there is another way of adjusting the gaps with the motor stopped.. Its a long story but it starts with , have the rockers on No 6 cyclinder rocking and adjust No 1 cyclinder gap. Then have rockers on No 2 cyclinder rocking and adjust No 5 gap. More later if needed. HOTDAY
#18
_UCV80_
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Posted 07 February 2006 - 11:14 PM
THANX for all the info guys... ill read over it all a couple of times and get to work!
thanx again
,nathan
thanx again
,nathan
#19
FastEHHolden
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Posted 08 February 2006 - 09:31 AM
Hotday started to explain the way I always do it...the law of 7.
when the valves on No.6 rock, adjust No.1
rock 2, adjust 5
rock 4 adjust 3
rock 1 adjust 6
rock 5 adjust 2
rock 3 adjust 4
this mothod works best when the lifters are bled first but can work with new lifters if you pay very close attention to them (have the side plate off to see them)
Advantages are no mess and no danger.
when the valves on No.6 rock, adjust No.1
rock 2, adjust 5
rock 4 adjust 3
rock 1 adjust 6
rock 5 adjust 2
rock 3 adjust 4
this mothod works best when the lifters are bled first but can work with new lifters if you pay very close attention to them (have the side plate off to see them)
Advantages are no mess and no danger.
#20
rodomo
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Posted 08 February 2006 - 09:21 PM
Then there's the law of 13.
No.1 valve open, adjust 12 (1+12=13)
No.2 valve open, adjust 11 (2+11=13) and so on
This ensures the lifter is on the base circle of the cam especially big cams.
RACV MAN
No.1 valve open, adjust 12 (1+12=13)
No.2 valve open, adjust 11 (2+11=13) and so on
This ensures the lifter is on the base circle of the cam especially big cams.
RACV MAN
#21
_82911_
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Posted 08 February 2006 - 09:58 PM
Or there is the "law of convention" that states...
Pull the side plates off and adjust the rockers on the firing stroke at TDC.. Follow the firing order turning the engine as you go untill the next cylinder in the firing order is at TDC and adjust rockers on both inlet and exhaust, continue in firing order until all are done...
ie: 1.5.3.6.2.4.
Cheers Greg..
Pull the side plates off and adjust the rockers on the firing stroke at TDC.. Follow the firing order turning the engine as you go untill the next cylinder in the firing order is at TDC and adjust rockers on both inlet and exhaust, continue in firing order until all are done...
ie: 1.5.3.6.2.4.
Cheers Greg..
#22
rodomo
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Posted 08 February 2006 - 11:10 PM
Why pull the side plates off?
RACV MAN
RACV MAN
#23
_82911_
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Posted 09 February 2006 - 05:24 AM
^ because my balancer isn't divided into 3rds...(thanks romac)
and I know what you are saying....just watch the valves....Yes!
But i'm a bit particular with making sure that It's right on the base circle...
With a cam that has 310 degrees seat to seat duration there isn't a lot of base circle left!!!
Besides 6 bolts!!!! 3minutes!
Cheers Greg..
and I know what you are saying....just watch the valves....Yes!
But i'm a bit particular with making sure that It's right on the base circle...
With a cam that has 310 degrees seat to seat duration there isn't a lot of base circle left!!!
Besides 6 bolts!!!! 3minutes!
Cheers Greg..
#24
_CHOPPER_
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Posted 09 February 2006 - 06:07 PM
Or pay somebody else to do it whilst downing a beer or two.
#25
_BCR42Y_
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Posted 23 April 2006 - 09:04 PM
Does this also relate to 308's? I tried adjusting mine with the rocker covers off on my 308 and ended up with oil burns on my hands, about 1.5 litres of oil on the driveway and a cloud of smoke as if i was in a burn out comp.
Any tips on 308's?
Any tips on 308's?
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