Panhard V No panhard rod.
#176
Posted 10 July 2009 - 06:25 PM
#177 _rorym_
Posted 10 July 2009 - 06:27 PM
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#178
Posted 10 July 2009 - 07:10 PM
all us group c torana guys dont run a panhard bar , w,eve tried them and taken them back off , even brocky ordered it off at philip island 06 in an a9x .
the torana rear end will bind because of the arc it travels in , a watts linkage is the only way to go if you want to go panhard but thats out of the question for us .
use quality good rubber bushes to minimize the movement , pedders part number 5820 by memory
If you recall the A9X uses the UC floorpan and trailing arm locations. The UC (and HQ) trailing arm angles offer far better triangulation and therefore do not require a panhard bar as much as the LH/X setup.
FWIW my old Group C A9X did have a panhard rod and was raced with it in position from 1977 to 1983.
#179 _rorym_
Posted 10 July 2009 - 09:57 PM
#180 _rorym_
Posted 11 July 2009 - 09:26 AM
R
#181
Posted 11 July 2009 - 09:46 AM
#182
Posted 11 July 2009 - 10:43 AM
Any one else do a kit besides McDonald Bros??? Is theres suited to my needs???
Or is it something that can just be made up?
#183 _Squarepants_
Posted 11 July 2009 - 11:26 AM
I've looked and I can't find it.
Thanks mate.
#184 _82911_
Posted 11 July 2009 - 11:27 AM
What are you trying to achieve?
Give some info on the problems you are having and I will have a crack at a solution that might help.
Otherwise it is the blind leading the blind.
Cheers Greg..
#185 _brett_32i_
Posted 11 July 2009 - 01:01 PM
#186 _moot_
Posted 11 July 2009 - 09:01 PM
Could those who want a panhard rod or a watts link tell me why they actually want one?
What are you trying to achieve?
Give some info on the problems you are having and I will have a crack at a solution that might help.
Otherwise it is the blind leading the blind.
Cheers Greg..
i have 5mm between the tyres and the chassis rail and want to stop the diff moving side to side
#187 _rorym_
Posted 11 July 2009 - 10:23 PM
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#188
Posted 11 July 2009 - 10:31 PM
A panhard rod will probably cause the diff to move 5 mm during straight line suspension travel.i have 5mm between the tyres and the chassis rail and want to stop the diff moving side to side
#189 _82911_
Posted 11 July 2009 - 11:08 PM
The biggest change a lateral link makes to a live axle assembly is that it re-defines the roll centre for that axle
That is an important change and the reason why most race spec Torana's use them. It has little to do with limiting lateral movement of the rear axle and PLENTY to do with correcting the roll axis. Which if left at it's standard position creates plenty of corner entry understeer.
Cheers Greg..
#190 _moot_
Posted 12 July 2009 - 07:47 AM
#191
Posted 12 July 2009 - 09:21 AM
I to was planning on getting a 235 or the biggest i can get in the std tub with the guards rolled and the car is sitting low, so want the diff located better so it dosen't rub to much. Due to tyre deflection and diff movement say 10mm clearance?
So because i want my car to handle on the street and when i take it to the track, wouldn't i want a lower rear roll centre as std they are to high (and i have prob made this worse by having my car fairly low), there for needing Panhard Bar as a easy???? or becuase of my setup with no fuel tank, spare wheel hump and exhaust going under the 9' is a watts link a option what kind of $$$?
#192 _82911_
Posted 12 July 2009 - 10:45 AM
LH Muscle...10mm is a minimum but probably safe clearance. Honestly, if we are talking about mainly street use and your not using at least semi-slick tyres, then a panhard is probably overkill in your case as well.
A panhard on a Torana is not as simple as just "bolting one on" it therefore is a step you should only consider AFTER you have optimised all the other components and have got to the limit of mechanical grip that can be provided by springs and sway bars. At this point it is worth considering a panhard and the effect that its location has on the rear end geometry.
Cheers Greg..
#193 _moot_
Posted 12 July 2009 - 10:57 AM
a torana does need something to stop the diff moving side to side.
#194 _82911_
Posted 12 July 2009 - 04:11 PM
Yes, and it has diverging upper arms that do this reasonably well untill you add sticky tyres and try to corner near the limit.a torana does need something to stop the diff moving side to side.
Cheers Greg..
#195
Posted 12 July 2009 - 04:29 PM
Oh and I'm running 730lb front springs, 190lb rears with standard swaybars with just some basic Koni reds (really want/need to get some bilsteins)
Edited by Peter UC, 12 July 2009 - 04:33 PM.
#196 _Gunmetal LH_
Posted 12 July 2009 - 11:03 PM
Edited by Gunmetal LH, 12 July 2009 - 11:06 PM.
#197 _82911_
Posted 13 July 2009 - 07:24 PM
I also think your front spring rate is a little low, pehaps another 100lbs or so might help. Also, your koni's wont allow this change, but if they could, some serious rebound dampening in the rear would help as well.
Rule #1 in testing..... change only one thing at a time.
Cheers Greg..
#198 _doucmyuc_
Posted 14 July 2009 - 01:49 AM
I have a question for you Greg. I'm struggling to get a good balance with my UC. It either had good powerdown with the rear swaybar removed, but turn in understeer. So I put the rear swaybar back on and I get good turn in, but it then lights up the inside tyre easily (and I'm taliking semi-slicks with a mild 173). I don't have a LSD yet and that is the next step and to lower the upper arm mounting point. But should I look at harder rear springs without a rear swaybar first or should I look at adding a panhard bar/ watts linkage?
Oh and I'm running 730lb front springs, 190lb rears with standard swaybars with just some basic Koni reds (really want/need to get some bilsteins)
Peter id get an LSD first, and then asses how the car responds . With extra mechanical grip on the opposite side - you might find that all of a sudden your car has a heap of great turn in, but probably not a lot of control over it. Once the LSD is in, as other have said you could balance the front end with a thicker swaybar. This would probably push the LSD to work harder again, especially seing how it understeers with a rear swaybar. Youve got a given amount of mechanical grip on the car - you just need to be able to balance it to the opposite corner
Greg, why do you say the Konis would need a serious revalve? Hes not running a large springrate in the rear, so the need to control the rate of rebbound doesnt appear to be there. I would have also assumed the Koni's to be capable of handling a larger springrate? I would have thought a larger springrate up front would in essence give the Koni a little less work to do on compression rate - rebound wise i honestly have no idea how they perform or how well ther are valved for the heavy fronts on our toranas.
#199 _doucmyuc_
Posted 14 July 2009 - 02:14 AM
#200 _rorym_
Posted 14 July 2009 - 08:07 PM
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