Forbes car, Sandown 1975.
R
where I do get myself one of those trees that have L34's growing on them?
Panhard V No panhard rod.
Started by
rodomo
, Dec 30 2007 09:25 AM
206 replies to this topic
#201
_evil UC hatch_
_evil UC hatch_
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Posted 14 July 2009 - 08:53 PM
where I do get myself one of those trees that have L34's growing on them?
#204
_brett_32i_
_brett_32i_
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Posted 15 July 2009 - 07:10 AM
pete, are you interested in the koni coilovers that are in the back of mine at the moment? including the 6kg springs that you got a feel for. that will then give you rebound adjustment, and a larger choice of springrates.
#205
Peter UC
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Posted 15 July 2009 - 01:24 PM
Thanks everyone for your help, I was intending to put the LSD in first and see where the handling was at. I do have some 840lb front springs lying around (in my LX but I could still test with them). I was wondering if it better to run a rear swaybar or run without one, I generally see Group N XU1s without them.
doucmyuc it doesn't have understeer problems with the rear swaybar in, just powerdown problems. It has understeer with the rear swaybar removed but good powerdown (which is exactly what is supposed to happen).
Brett I am interested in your coilovers, I thought you were using them in your IRS setup. Oh and I'm calculating your 6kg springs to be approx 340lb wihich doesn't sound right. I used to have 300lb rear springs and they were very hard, and your car rode, if anything, softer than mine. It is kg/mm and lb/inch isn't it?
doucmyuc it doesn't have understeer problems with the rear swaybar in, just powerdown problems. It has understeer with the rear swaybar removed but good powerdown (which is exactly what is supposed to happen).
Brett I am interested in your coilovers, I thought you were using them in your IRS setup. Oh and I'm calculating your 6kg springs to be approx 340lb wihich doesn't sound right. I used to have 300lb rear springs and they were very hard, and your car rode, if anything, softer than mine. It is kg/mm and lb/inch isn't it?
Edited by Peter UC, 15 July 2009 - 01:25 PM.
#206
StephenSLR
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Posted 07 August 2016 - 12:14 PM
Something I stumbled across.
s
#207
ozyozyozy
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Posted 07 August 2016 - 03:05 PM
Dont bother with watts or panhard if using factory rear end.
You will introduce massive amount of binding as it fights what the upper trailing arms are trying to do.
you need to turn the upper arms into parallel links or destroy the bushes to make them redundant and fit a torque arm/3rd link
The factory rear end even tho not the best, careful attention to bushes and freedom of articulation can be made to work reasonably well.
If searching for more out of it, will require alot of work in reconstruction.
Even a simple panhard rod can introduce loads that will cause jacking of the rear on particular corners, ask the escort racers.
The angle of the top arms, acts in a way to keep the diff central or at least trys.
You will introduce massive amount of binding as it fights what the upper trailing arms are trying to do.
you need to turn the upper arms into parallel links or destroy the bushes to make them redundant and fit a torque arm/3rd link
The factory rear end even tho not the best, careful attention to bushes and freedom of articulation can be made to work reasonably well.
If searching for more out of it, will require alot of work in reconstruction.
Even a simple panhard rod can introduce loads that will cause jacking of the rear on particular corners, ask the escort racers.
The angle of the top arms, acts in a way to keep the diff central or at least trys.
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