) So I woul like to know how you guys have mounted them up, of course a pic says a thousand words 
thermo fan mounting
Started by
shanegtr
, Feb 07 2006 08:06 AM
19 replies to this topic
#1
shanegtr
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Posted 07 February 2006 - 08:06 AM
Hi guys. Im going to be changing the mounting for my thermo fan when I install my new radiator. The current setup has the fan mounted through the rad fins which I dont like very much (dont blame me, it was like that when I brought it ) So I woul like to know how you guys have mounted them up, of course a pic says a thousand words
) So I woul like to know how you guys have mounted them up, of course a pic says a thousand words
#2
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 07 February 2006 - 09:05 AM
Mine is the same at the moment, through the radiator with radiator support clips, but best bet out I've seen is a flat steel bar fabricated to hold the fans, and bolt on using the radiator support bolts. Sorry I don't have a pic. Mate has one hanging in his shed which I just plan to copy.
#3
_Herne_
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Posted 07 February 2006 - 09:09 AM
You will get lot's of advice from the guys here there's no doubt about that. Here at the address shown you will find a related article worth reading.
http://www.oldholden.../Thermatic_Fans
For what it's worth my twin fans are mounted on the front of my radiator - before it.
I run no engine fan.
Anyway read the article and yes it even has a couple of photo's.
Cheers
Herne
http://www.oldholden.../Thermatic_Fans
For what it's worth my twin fans are mounted on the front of my radiator - before it.
I run no engine fan.
Anyway read the article and yes it even has a couple of photo's.
Cheers
Herne
#4
shanegtr
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Posted 07 February 2006 - 09:59 AM
I was just going to get a couple lenghts of aluminum angle to do the job. I cant mount my thermo behind the rad because there isnt enough room 
. So its going in the front - which is where it is now anyway
. So its going in the front - which is where it is now anyway
#5
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Posted 07 February 2006 - 11:00 AM
Sorry Shane I misread your post :(
Anyway to try and make good here are a couple of rough looking thermo fans already mounted, I purchased them second hand and never got around to using them so I kept them as spares. My orange LX already has some fitted
Anyway hope they help you out some.
The pics appear a tad green due to the photo being taken under my carport.
Cheers
Herne
Anyway to try and make good here are a couple of rough looking thermo fans already mounted, I purchased them second hand and never got around to using them so I kept them as spares. My orange LX already has some fitted
Anyway hope they help you out some.
The pics appear a tad green due to the photo being taken under my carport.
Cheers
Herne
Edited by Herne, 07 February 2006 - 11:03 AM.
#6
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 07 February 2006 - 12:13 PM
Front or rear can still use the radiator bolts as a mounting point. I had to fit mine behind due to fog lights sitting in front of the rad. You have to remove the old fan spacer and buy shorter bolts to fit them behind. Prolly not the recommended location, but that's the only place they'd fit on my beast.
#7
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 07 February 2006 - 12:26 PM
Damn good find there Herne, mabye Devilsadvocate should have a read (not that can of worms again!).
I particularly like this:- http://www.oldholden...ric_Water_Pumps
Might have to investigate fitting that as an alternative to rewiring the thermo's off current constant supply, as heat soak is an issue.
Thanks for that.
I particularly like this:- http://www.oldholden...ric_Water_Pumps
Might have to investigate fitting that as an alternative to rewiring the thermo's off current constant supply, as heat soak is an issue.
Thanks for that.
#8
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Posted 07 February 2006 - 12:56 PM
yeah Yella
I figured there had to be more general stuff around relating to older holdens than just Torana guff. Wasn't hard to find - maybe I got lucky.
Figured some forum members might benefit from some of the sites info. Of course I am not saying it's right nor wrong but looks generally ok to me.
Please don't get devils going again
lol
Cheers
Herne
I figured there had to be more general stuff around relating to older holdens than just Torana guff. Wasn't hard to find - maybe I got lucky.
Figured some forum members might benefit from some of the sites info. Of course I am not saying it's right nor wrong but looks generally ok to me.
Please don't get devils going again
lol Cheers
Herne
#9
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Posted 07 February 2006 - 01:08 PM
No im not going to point out why half of whats there is "distorted", it would upset a few. Pm me if you want the lowdown. Is Oldholden.com paid for by DaviesCraig?
Edited by devilsadvocate, 07 February 2006 - 01:15 PM.
#10
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Posted 07 February 2006 - 01:19 PM
That didnt take long. Phishing is good today
Cheers
Herne
Cheers
Herne
#11
J-Rod
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Posted 07 February 2006 - 01:46 PM
here's the moutning plate i made back when i was using 2 10" davies craif thermos:
sorry about the crappy phone pic
Unfornunatley these fans won't be up to the task with the next incarnation of my engine.
I cut the bracket out from a piece of 6mm aluminium plate.
Yella: Do yourself a favour and do a google search on the Electric Water Pumps.. i looked into it a while back and i don't belive they are all they're cracked up to be.
sorry about the crappy phone pic
Unfornunatley these fans won't be up to the task with the next incarnation of my engine.
I cut the bracket out from a piece of 6mm aluminium plate.
Yella: Do yourself a favour and do a google search on the Electric Water Pumps.. i looked into it a while back and i don't belive they are all they're cracked up to be.
#12
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Posted 07 February 2006 - 01:51 PM
sorry for getting a tad off topic here but I was talking to a guy with the red torry who made super elite class at the last Summernats, he swore by an electric waterpump. His car was nice but I personally would rate it elite by any standards.
Herne
Herne
#13
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 07 February 2006 - 02:41 PM
Gawd, so much to comment on.
I'm looking at using straight bar, which is much easier to fabricate, and looks so much neater. I will have to get a pic of the one Trev has on his wall. It's like out of 4 x 20mm steel flat bar and relies on the fan bodies to add some rigidity to the flat bar frame. The way he has it configured, would have minimal impedence on air flow, well less than the big V8 and car sitting futher beyond anyways.
Herne, liked that link so much, I asked Phil to add it to our links page. Good info on there.
J-Rod, peeps I know that have fitted them swear by them, but will research it a bit more before making the leap. Only criticism of that article, is that with so much scale and muck in the radiator, why on earth didn't he fit a water filter to the top radiator hose while he was at it, instead of worrying about the water purge outlet?
Just out of interest, does the alternator sit on the right hand of the engine on the Torrie 202's? If so, I'd fit a Torrie alternator bracket and move the alternator to the other side rather than cut off the cast in timing marks.
Looks like one more thing on Yella that is going to be non-standard, oh well you get that.
I'm looking at using straight bar, which is much easier to fabricate, and looks so much neater. I will have to get a pic of the one Trev has on his wall. It's like out of 4 x 20mm steel flat bar and relies on the fan bodies to add some rigidity to the flat bar frame. The way he has it configured, would have minimal impedence on air flow, well less than the big V8 and car sitting futher beyond anyways.
Herne, liked that link so much, I asked Phil to add it to our links page. Good info on there.
J-Rod, peeps I know that have fitted them swear by them, but will research it a bit more before making the leap. Only criticism of that article, is that with so much scale and muck in the radiator, why on earth didn't he fit a water filter to the top radiator hose while he was at it, instead of worrying about the water purge outlet?
Just out of interest, does the alternator sit on the right hand of the engine on the Torrie 202's? If so, I'd fit a Torrie alternator bracket and move the alternator to the other side rather than cut off the cast in timing marks.
Looks like one more thing on Yella that is going to be non-standard, oh well you get that.
Edited by Yella SLuR, 07 February 2006 - 02:43 PM.
#14
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Posted 07 February 2006 - 03:54 PM
What was going to be published at http://autospeed.dri...cles&A=0569&P=1 might have been interesting
#15
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Posted 07 February 2006 - 04:08 PM
I agree devils it very well might have been a good read. That looks nothing like the device I saw at the nats.
I wish I had taken more notice of the brand of elec water pump that the red torry at the nats had in it.
The engine in that car was very strong - a stroked 365according to the owner if my memory serves me.
I will correct my previous error here: I meant to say the car IMHO was NOT an elite class vehicle albeit a very nice car. Who am I to argue with Summernats judges though.
I agree with many who have stated this before, the more shiny shit you have hanging out of the bonnet of your car the better the judges seem to like it.
Then again maybe thats what the general public want to see, ie something they dont see all too often. I refer of course to the fact that many such cars are not seen on the street much at all, maybe they dont like being checked by the various authorities and only risk it to win a trophy? But I digress, this could be another topic for another time.
Cheers
Herne
I wish I had taken more notice of the brand of elec water pump that the red torry at the nats had in it.
The engine in that car was very strong - a stroked 365according to the owner if my memory serves me.
I will correct my previous error here: I meant to say the car IMHO was NOT an elite class vehicle albeit a very nice car. Who am I to argue with Summernats judges though.
I agree with many who have stated this before, the more shiny shit you have hanging out of the bonnet of your car the better the judges seem to like it.
Then again maybe thats what the general public want to see, ie something they dont see all too often. I refer of course to the fact that many such cars are not seen on the street much at all, maybe they dont like being checked by the various authorities and only risk it to win a trophy? But I digress, this could be another topic for another time.
Cheers
Herne
#16
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 07 February 2006 - 04:14 PM
Coulda been, but if I ran a company and I knew of shortcomings in my product, I think that six years would be more than sufficient time to modify my product to overcome the supposed shortcomings, think they call it product development.
I'm still interested in giving it a go, and like everything, if I'm not happy, can always go back to what I have now, nothing really lost, and think I'll notice something astray before I blow a motor.
I'm still interested in giving it a go, and like everything, if I'm not happy, can always go back to what I have now, nothing really lost, and think I'll notice something astray before I blow a motor.
#17
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Posted 07 February 2006 - 07:33 PM
Its your car and your money Yella, hope you research it well. My inclination is that there is nothing actually wrong with the DaviesCraig pump and it will not have an adverse affect on the car, just that the disadvantages of a pulley pump/power robbing etc are not as claimed in normal road use and even perhaps on the dyno where the tend to make comparison only at a very high rpm where the pulleypump will definitely be causing some drag. Six years down the track the pulley pump will be exactly the same as it was before.
Advantages such as running the ewp after a normal shutdown to prevent heatsoak, suggest that non turboed motors can be damaged by normal heatsoak, but there is no evidence ive seen that supports this.
Being able to have your water pump and electric fan cool an overheated motor between races is perhaps something that appeals to the enthusiast but not of particular value to most.
Advantages such as running the ewp after a normal shutdown to prevent heatsoak, suggest that non turboed motors can be damaged by normal heatsoak, but there is no evidence ive seen that supports this.
Being able to have your water pump and electric fan cool an overheated motor between races is perhaps something that appeals to the enthusiast but not of particular value to most.
Edited by devilsadvocate, 07 February 2006 - 07:34 PM.
#18
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 07 February 2006 - 07:42 PM
It's for all these reasons that I want it. Getting off the topic, but anyways, we're there now. Apologies in advance Shane GTR.....just that the disadvantages of a pulley pump/power robbing etc are not as claimed in normal road use and even perhaps on the dyno where the tend to make comparison only at a very high rpm where the pulleypump will definitely be causing some drag..........
Advantages such as running the ewp after a normal shutdown to prevent heatsoak, suggest that non turboed motors can be damaged by normal heatsoak, but there is no evidence ive seen that supports this.......
Car is just a weekend car, and I do like to take it to track days, so it gets driven pretty hard, that's what I bought it for to drive (forget I said that if you plan to buy the car in future, put cash in the box six foot down when your ready, I'll leave a slot!!!).
Heatsoak is something that has always concerned me from the day I started driving, especially now that I've got hardened valve seats in there. Would prefer them to stay in rather than pop out. In addition to that, running maximum possible advance and the higher burn temperatures of unleaded fuel, I think that makes revising your heating/cooling system a good idea, if not imperative.
Just the way I think about it. Haven't worked out the final solution yet, but it's one of the considerations.
#19
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Posted 08 February 2006 - 05:59 PM
I did actually look into it myself a couple of years ago,these points are probably not of concern to Yella's intended application, but worth others considering.
Apart from the points I mentioned above i had concerns about heater and LPG operation, which I contacted DCraig about.
The problem being that if you use the pump like suggested, when the engine is warming up the pump flow is next to nothing as regulated by the electronic controller. This wouldnt get a flow going to the heater at all while the engine was warming up, and even when the motor was warm, on a cold day, the flow of water needed to keep the block cool wouldnt be enough to keep a good flow of hot water to the heater if you were blasting the heater core with cold air. Davies Craig basically agreed that there would be less flow but considered that there would be a 'satisfactory' flow to the heater, well, I enjoy my hot air , so i took that as the heater would be luke warm at best in cold conditions.
In regards to LPG, a constant flow of water is needed for the convertor, this to would also not happen when conditions were cold, the DC solution was to sell you another ewp for the lpg circuit.
Even back then, adding it all up, it was $350+ to setup their system, all with a very limited warranty. I did ask whether any new car manufacturer has taken up ewp and at that time, no, I believe that is still the case.
Apart from the points I mentioned above i had concerns about heater and LPG operation, which I contacted DCraig about.
The problem being that if you use the pump like suggested, when the engine is warming up the pump flow is next to nothing as regulated by the electronic controller. This wouldnt get a flow going to the heater at all while the engine was warming up, and even when the motor was warm, on a cold day, the flow of water needed to keep the block cool wouldnt be enough to keep a good flow of hot water to the heater if you were blasting the heater core with cold air. Davies Craig basically agreed that there would be less flow but considered that there would be a 'satisfactory' flow to the heater, well, I enjoy my hot air , so i took that as the heater would be luke warm at best in cold conditions.
In regards to LPG, a constant flow of water is needed for the convertor, this to would also not happen when conditions were cold, the DC solution was to sell you another ewp for the lpg circuit.
Even back then, adding it all up, it was $350+ to setup their system, all with a very limited warranty. I did ask whether any new car manufacturer has taken up ewp and at that time, no, I believe that is still the case.
#20
J-Rod
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Posted 08 February 2006 - 07:20 PM
*sorry to stay off topic*
some interesting ideas there fellas.
Keep us informed if you go ahead with it Yella. You've actually sparked my interest in the EWP again and i've started looking into whether i can get my ECU to control it.
some interesting ideas there fellas.
Keep us informed if you go ahead with it Yella. You've actually sparked my interest in the EWP again and i've started looking into whether i can get my ECU to control it.
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