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LX V8 Clutch Linkage

Started by _mars_ , Jan 17 2008 08:12 AM

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33 replies to this topic

#1 _mars_

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Posted 17 January 2008 - 08:12 AM

Next question,

I have a rat trap for a 6 cylinder LH, not sure if this will suit Aussie 4 speed for a 308, bigger bell housing etc, the experts tried last night to figure out how it goes on the car and what could be missing. Presently I have the cable from the clutch and would like to find a picture or diagramme of the whole unit so I can figure out how it goes on and what is missing if anything.

Any help would be appreciated, also know that there are other options but I want to stick with this one first.

Thanks, Mars

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#2 _EXLXSL_

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Posted 18 January 2008 - 01:02 AM

These might be of some use. 6 cylinder and V8 and you should be able to see the differences. And it may help you fit it all. There is a dude that sells the V8 rat trap on eBay and I think he also makes the mounting bracket.

I think the pedal is the only common item.

6 cylinder
Posted Image

V8

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#3 _mars_

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Posted 18 January 2008 - 08:30 AM

Thanks EXLESL,

This is perfect, thought there was some bits missing, this has cleared it up for me, great work.

Many thanks, Mars

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#4 _mars_

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Posted 18 January 2008 - 02:58 PM

Just discovered that there are parts missing, the bracket with the cable to the box is not there, this was a common problem, breaking all the time. Seems far to hard to fix, most suggest converting to Hydraulics, interesting if there is someone who has a conversion kit available.

Mars

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#5 arrimar

"Have you still got that Torana!"

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Posted 18 January 2008 - 04:30 PM

6 and 8 cylinder clutch pedals are different.
the parts book will show the differences in where the cable attaches and the shape and "throw" of the connecting bracket at the top of the pedal arm.

...then there are UC clutch pedals also I believe.

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#6 Pop's-SS

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Name:Barry
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Car:1976 Mandarin Red SS Hatchback
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Posted 19 January 2008 - 10:00 PM

mars

This is the rat-trap system that I got from the fella on ebay.

Posted Image

Built like the side of a brick shit-house and once fitted should not give you any problems.

The two arms are laser cut and thick and will not bend even when being near the exhaust pipes of my car.
The old one did flex and that was a major part of the problem.
As the clutch was pushed in, it would flex to the outer side of the car and thus loose the amount of travel I had in it

BUT in saying that, there were a few things needed to do in fitting it.

The slot on the stainless steel clip needed a tiny bit of filing and the thick mounting bracket also needed a bit out of it because my bell-housing had ribs on it.

The rod to go into the clutch yoke was slightly thicker and the the yoke had to have the hole marginally increased.

The greasable rose joint is used on race cars and may need a different type of fitting to be able to grease it.

In saying all of that, I am glad I have mine as I should not have to touch it for a very long time.

Regards ................. Barry

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#7 LXCHEV

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Posted 21 January 2008 - 11:33 AM

I've got one of the original V8 rat-traps on my LX hatchback with 253 and Supra 5 speed. It's very old and worn out, and a few months ago it broke (around the pivot area). We welded it back up to get the car going again, but it's only a short-term solution.

My Dad was thinking of making up our own custom plates (thicker and stronger). Those ones on Ebay are quite interesting too.

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#8 _EXLXSL_

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Posted 21 January 2008 - 12:03 PM

I made my own a few years ago using the old one as a pattern. I also used a rod-end on the pivot to the clutch fork.

Was going to do the same for the end where the cable attaches but I think I ran out of room.

The tricky bit is that centre pivot. It has to pivot and be bolted on tight so it doesn't wobble around. I used an old rod-end out of my brothers worn KX125 parts container that he let here years ago. Spent a lot of time grinding with a Dremel but it all works well.

The "bloody thick mounting base" is the hard bit to get if you don't already have one. Good to see he does them as well.

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#9 _mars_

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Posted 23 January 2008 - 08:02 AM

Pop's - SS, Hello Barry,

Thanks for that info, do you have any contact details on the supplier, nothing comes up when I do a search.

Thanks Mars

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#10 Pop's-SS

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Name:Barry
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Posted 23 January 2008 - 11:15 AM

G'day mars

The fella you need to contact is Danny Doedems and his email addy is [email protected]

It is not cheap at about $300 but once fitted there should be no more problems and when you are talking Toranas these days, not much is cheap :blink:

I believe the hydraulic conversion is a lot dearer and I think the Castlemaine Rod Shop has those details.

Hope this helps, regards ............. Barry

PS It is a good thing that I have a folder in my Yahoo that says "Important Info" or other-wise I would have deleted it as this is where I do put Important Info :spoton:

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#11 _mars_

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Posted 23 January 2008 - 01:57 PM

Thanks Barry, you will become a legend when I tell my mates what you have passed onto me. The costs are cheap compared with the other option. I have contacted Castlemaine and its over $400 for hydrolic and too much stuffing around, this option is cheaper and much better.

Again many thanks for your help.

Mars

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#12 _conanricho_

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Posted 15 March 2009 - 02:12 PM

so can you use the 6 cylinder setup on a v8 in the diagram above^^^????

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#13 _trna76hb_

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Posted 15 March 2009 - 02:49 PM

My clutch setup is a 6cyl one. It is a V8 with a Dellow bell housing, Supra 5 speed.

But i have a hydraulic set up to go in, less moving parts to go wrong

Ian

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#14 yel327

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Posted 15 March 2009 - 03:08 PM

so can you use the 6 cylinder setup on a v8 in the diagram above^^^????

On HQ and HJ the only item that is different between 6cyl and V8 is item 7 (bracket). So I suppose you could find a V8 one of these off a HQ and try it, but if it was that easy Holden would have done it. You are better off anyway finding (or fabricating) a UC pedal to suit a V8 and use a WB or Commodore bellhousing and new UC cable.

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#15 _darrenmark1_

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Posted 28 March 2009 - 08:03 PM

On HQ and HJ the only item that is different between 6cyl and V8 is item 7 (bracket). So I suppose you could find a V8 one of these off a HQ and try it, but if it was that easy Holden would have done it. You are better off anyway finding (or fabricating) a UC pedal to suit a V8 and use a WB or Commodore bellhousing and new UC cable.

HQ ones don't fit they are to tight!

I sell all the components to make a 6 cyl into a v8 pedal on a LH or LX man pedal Being the top bit that you can just weld on top of your 6 cyl pedal and also the clutch bracket. all you have to do is get a clutch cable from rare spares.

Posted Image

Weld this ontop os your pedal 6 cyl LH/LX

Posted Image

V8 clutch bracket for a standard trimatic bellhousing

I also have the top bit for the bracket ontop of the pedal.

If anyone needs one let me know. i do sell them on ebay but for forum members i will do them a bit cheaper.

Darren

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#16 _Harley_

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Posted 12 December 2011 - 08:52 PM

does anyone know how to get in touch with this guy selling these brackets on Ebay ie a seller name

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#17 _mick74lh_

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Posted 12 December 2011 - 10:20 PM

I'm not sure about ebay but Milton performance in Brisbane may still do them. Some other forum members may be able to shed more light on this.

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#18 _Greg313662_

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Posted 23 January 2012 - 07:55 PM

Hey Mars, maybe a day late and a dollar short, I just joined. The original clutch linkage and pivot in my SS 5.o Litre used to snap the centre pivot bolt every once in a while. The original setup (from memory) was two parallel plates shaped roughly like a boomerang of 1mm thickness pivoting on a bolt approximately 6mm (1/4 inch) round. Without exception the bolt was the component which failed EVERY time. The 1mm thick "boomerang" setup was pretty warped by the time my mate devised a mod to eliminate it.

I would hear a "twang" and the clutch pedal would go slack all three times it failed.. I had a mate that thought up and fabricated a replacement "boomerang" from 6mm flat cut to size. He also eliminated the 6mm pivot bolt by welding a 5/8 inch nut onto the bracket which the bolt screwed into. Of course he drilled the bracket out to accommodate the 5/8 bolt with clearance and the new "boomerang" was designed to accommodate the larger pivot bolt.. I can try to get a pic of this setup if you like (my Torrie is on stands) as it is an excellent modification in my opinion. The mod eliminated that horrible "squeak" when I depressed the clutch. It resulted in a much lighter clutch pedal. I feel this is due to no flex in the setup and I only then had to replace a clutch cable once since this mod. I believe it was fatigued due to misalignment due to the original mount flexing.

I was never a fan of going to hydraulic and this mod made me happy. I haven't made many mods to my Torrie and i feel that whilst not being purist this is a mod incorporating longevity and reliability that is out of sight.