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What's A File Finish Look Like?
#1
_Brewster_
Posted 27 February 2008 - 07:05 PM
#2
Posted 27 February 2008 - 08:16 PM
Is the "bee's knees" in car restoration, but realistically most paintjobs get a bit tired through minor wear - don't just instantly turn from a showcar quality paintjob to absolute shit when the filler starts falling apart. It isn't economically worth it but I think that's part of the attraction. If someone is capable of doing it themselves then they are SERIOUSLY good, and if someone pays someone to do it for them it is like a statement saying that "no expense was spared on this rebuild". It's bragging rights of course, not that anyone will really know whether it genuinely is or isn't "file finished" apart from the people who see it in the body shop just before it has paint applied
![:rolleyes:](http://www.gmh-torana.com.au/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)
But yeah I believe the last person who bought the black HO PHIII immediately pulled it down for a "file finish" respray even though the paint was awesome before that hahahaha. I was told he did it so that no one could pick on the car for any reason - you know how elitists are for judging other people's vehicles!!!
Wank factor 10/10 generally, my understanding is that a correctly applied good quality filler will last for a long long time anyway so I don't think I'd ever bother, but that's just me.
Edited by Heath, 27 February 2008 - 08:19 PM.
#3
Posted 27 February 2008 - 08:42 PM
http://www.gmh-toran...hp?showforum=15
Metal Finishing
http://www.gmh-toran...showtopic=24343
#4
_Yella SLuR_
Posted 27 February 2008 - 08:42 PM
The finish largely refers to the tool used to get the finish, a panel file (if necessary I can photograph one for you). Much easier attained in the modern day with an Easybeat (a slide hammer that self welds onto the panel using minimal current/heat) to pull your lows back up.
Can also be achieved using a simple dolly and hammer, if good access is afforded to the rear of the panel (difficult with side intrusion bars on doors). Refer to Pete's article on preparing a guard (Part 4) where he does a metal file finish there using very simple tools. He's also done an excellent job of it.
Do the Automotive Restoration Course at tech, that will get you started on the way sheet metal behaves.
Edited by Yella SLuR, 27 February 2008 - 08:43 PM.
#5
_Yella SLuR_
Posted 27 February 2008 - 08:46 PM
![Posted Image](https://cache.gmh-torana.com.au/i6.photobucket.com/albums/y212/850pete/th10.jpg)
^ That's what a file finish ends up looking like. Perfect bare metal, no bends, ripples, highs, or lows.
Almost a shame to paint.
Edited by Yella SLuR, 27 February 2008 - 08:52 PM.
#6
_Yella SLuR_
Posted 27 February 2008 - 09:09 PM
#7
_Brewster_
Posted 27 February 2008 - 09:18 PM
I did read these guides, I didn't realise that was the ' file ' finish everyone keeps talking about.Have a look at the topics pinned at the top of this forum.
http://www.gmh-toran...hp?showforum=15
Metal Finishing
http://www.gmh-toran...showtopic=24343
Thanks Yella, where do you get the panel file from?
#8
_Yella SLuR_
Posted 27 February 2008 - 09:30 PM
The most basic tools you need are:-
1. Panel File
2. Plenishing Hammer
3. Basic set of dolly's (Supercheap dollys are OK, must hammers are crap)
4. A speed file
5. A decent dolly.
^ I think that's what they said the minimum are (need to recheck tech notes).
Disk sander is also good to have, but you need to work it across and down the panel to get a stripey pattern to the metal. Try not to use your panel file on paint, they don't like it too much (get blunt).
Your getting into a whole new area of endeavour, which is hugely challenging, but rewarding.
#9
_Yella SLuR_
Posted 27 February 2008 - 09:32 PM
![Posted Image](https://cache.gmh-torana.com.au/i6.photobucket.com/albums/y212/850pete/34.jpg)
#10
_Brewster_
Posted 27 February 2008 - 09:35 PM
#11
_Pete_
Posted 27 February 2008 - 09:37 PM
The metal file is used to lightly knock the top off tiny high spots caused in the metal bumping process. Also helps you identify low spots that need to be brought up as they won't be touched by the file's teeth.
I'm not a fan of lead myself, I've rectified enough ruined paint jobs caused by contamination in the leading process to know that modern 2K fillers are a better alternative. I've also dug enough lead out of poorly repaired dents to know that Cowboys who claim to be Craftsmen are no different to the BOG Barons out there.
Metal Files are available at any Automotive Paint Suppliers, I'd suggest starting with the finer tooth version so you don't over do it.
#12
_Brewster_
Posted 27 February 2008 - 09:41 PM
![:D](http://www.gmh-torana.com.au/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
#13
_Yella SLuR_
Posted 27 February 2008 - 09:43 PM
If your real interested, do the Auto Restoration course, they cover all this stuff. They just don't give you enough time to perfect it, that takes practice.
^ oh, and you get to make a hub cap and a wheel chock in the process from 1.6mm steel sheet.
Edited by Yella SLuR, 27 February 2008 - 09:45 PM.
#14
_Restocody_
Posted 10 July 2015 - 12:18 PM
1) got lines out
2) worked the dent up a little
3) used a slapper and dolly to hit most of the dent up
4) quick wizz to get most of the paint
5) started to file
6) got rid of highs and lows with hammer dolly and slapper
7) filed again .. cross filed (repeat 6)
8) when i was happy wizzed it to send for paint.
Hope this helped
#bogfree
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