
Killin Batterys!
#26
Posted 10 March 2008 - 09:48 PM
#27
_CHOPPER_
Posted 10 March 2008 - 11:01 PM
#28
Posted 11 March 2008 - 11:39 AM
#29
Posted 23 March 2008 - 05:15 PM
#30
Posted 27 March 2008 - 10:47 PM
now the batt is near new and got tested and is fine.the alternator is new.
i only have ba thermos ,and gas as the added eletrical wires.no sick stereo bro!
so dunno what the g o is!
#31
Posted 27 March 2008 - 11:43 PM
#32
Posted 28 March 2008 - 07:34 AM
Angus has one, maybe i'll talk him into to coming to visit if u dont sort it out saturday....
#33
Posted 28 March 2008 - 05:29 PM
Mind you its much more conclusive and correct with a meter but if you aint got one this can be a crude system for finding the fault. (If you do get sparks another thing to try is placing a small globe between the battery terminal and the lead it will sometimes glow if it does then pull each of your fuses in turn until the globe stops glowing and thats your problem circuit.
Alarms are also bad for causing these types of problems especially the cheap mass produced stuff from your friendly local auto parts and audio outlets.
#34
_TUFF_
Posted 28 March 2008 - 06:46 PM
Cheers
Josh
#35
_V8Hatch_
Posted 28 March 2008 - 07:46 PM
When you find the problem it will be a simple one and you will be kicking yourself.
Guns & Roses, where are you located PM me
#36
Posted 28 March 2008 - 09:15 PM
I've come across the bootlid staying on a few times over the years while working for RACV depots.Get in the boot and closed the lid....
If you get in the boot and close the lid, make sure someone is there to let you out........
#37
_CHOPPER_
Posted 28 March 2008 - 10:36 PM
If the car has a clock fitted, that will draw current, along with a stereo with memory for clock or radio stations. Better suggestions have already been posted in this thread that will give a more accurate result.could be that something is drawing current when the ignition is turned off. One crude way of finding out is to charge the battery remove the earth lead (or positive if easier) and with everthing turned off (doors shut boot shut if it has a light in it under bonnet light off if you have one) wipe the lead over the terminal (its better if its in the dark) and if you can see sparks or hear them then something is drawing current.
#38
Posted 28 March 2008 - 10:42 PM
VictLJ is correct with his method.If the car has a clock fitted, that will draw current, along with a stereo with memory for clock or radio stations. Better suggestions have already been posted in this thread that will give a more accurate result.could be that something is drawing current when the ignition is turned off. One crude way of finding out is to charge the battery remove the earth lead (or positive if easier) and with everthing turned off (doors shut boot shut if it has a light in it under bonnet light off if you have one) wipe the lead over the terminal (its better if its in the dark) and if you can see sparks or hear them then something is drawing current.
A trained eye will know the difference between a big drain and a clock.
#39
Posted 28 March 2008 - 10:44 PM
Steve, Gunners is down in Cranbourne...Guns & Roses, where are you located PM me
#40
_CHOPPER_
Posted 28 March 2008 - 10:44 PM
#41
Posted 28 March 2008 - 11:02 PM
#42
Posted 28 March 2008 - 11:24 PM
Bugger! I was down that way about 6 pm.Steve, Gunners is down in Cranbourne...Guns & Roses, where are you located PM me
We could have drank beer, talked shit, got no-where on the car and I still could have driven home


#43
_Brewster_
Posted 29 March 2008 - 11:47 AM

#44
Posted 29 March 2008 - 12:09 PM
the alternator is a bosch 85amp and was new when i fitted it 120 k's ago,along with the battery.battery was tested by battery shop and it is fine.
i got a s dash with no clock!!!!!i got a cd player that doesnt work!!!
headlights stoped working thanks to mrlxss!!
just got my gas and ba thermos..no alarm or extra electrical stuff...
its a new style alternator with the black box on the side,1 wire from that goes to the power on the back of the alt,the other wire goes to the small wire than runs into the loom,
i got a big red wire from back of alternator going to the battery,and the other big red wire goes from the starter motor via a fusable link into the loom...(as shown in the torana manual).
back of alt now as that little spade with nothing on it,as that was where the litle loom wire went,which now joins the black box.
also there is a little black box on the back of the alt,with a black wire that goes onto a spade on the back..
also the gas conversion is new,
and when i bought the car off a ex mate last year,the battery was #@$^%&,and was the 2nd he had in the car in 1 year and had the new alt with the car as he said the old 1 was shit.....
#45
Posted 29 March 2008 - 12:12 PM
it eventually did and i couldnt turn the motor over cause battery was flat
a mate came to help and we couldnt jump it..my torana still wouldnt turn over..
horn worked and heard gas turn on when i turned ignition on..
took his battery and my car got home easy as
#46
_V8Hatch_
Posted 29 March 2008 - 02:05 PM
#47
_V8Hatch_
Posted 29 March 2008 - 02:55 PM

#48
Posted 29 March 2008 - 06:08 PM
just had the multimeter on it
12.4 at the battery and when runnign the alternator is at 12...
and im told its meant to be 13.8 minimum????
so the alternator isnt charging??????????
im running the dicrest gilmer belt.which ive been told the pulley on that is the same size as the standard?
#49
_lx-304_
Posted 29 March 2008 - 06:29 PM
#50
_V8Hatch_
Posted 29 March 2008 - 06:30 PM
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