G'day,
I put some clear (acrylic) on my bonnet yesterday eveneing and its gone kinda milky. The thing is its not milky/frosty all over, only in some spots. Best way to describe it is its like Ive sprayed sections with cloudy paint especially towards the middle of the bonnet where I release the trigger and shoot again to do the next section.
I had the colour coat on and it looked ok but was a bit orange peely so I rubbed it back with 1200 wet. As I didnt have a hose in the shed I was just sponging water on and rubbing back then wiping the slurry off with a clean wet rag. I gave it a good wipe down to remove all the gunk with fresh water and clean rags and then I rubbed it down with wax and grease remover.
The clear coat was mixed with a about 1.5 times thinners (maybe more). The thinners are a decent quality General Purpose and the clear is just some Septone stuff I got from supercheap.
I painted at about dusk in brisbane so I wouldnt expect humidity to be high, however when I checked on my gizmo about 30mins after painting, humidity outside was about 82%
Any ideas why this happened and I guess it would help if I posted up a pic.
Also, how do I fix this up? Will the milky bits buff out?
Cheers,
T
Clear Coat Is Milky.
Started by
_Big T_
, Mar 25 2008 09:52 AM
31 replies to this topic
#2
GML-31
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Posted 25 March 2008 - 10:19 AM
never paint late Tony it sounds like blushing from the cold air
#3
_Big T_
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Posted 25 March 2008 - 12:25 PM
Bugger !! I was going to paint the rest of the car after work this week. Looks like I will be sanding instead.
Can blushing be fixed up Kev or do I have to sand back to the colour coat?
Can blushing be fixed up Kev or do I have to sand back to the colour coat?
#4
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Posted 25 March 2008 - 12:36 PM
Just don't ask your car embarassing questions whilst you paint next time.
#5
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Posted 25 March 2008 - 12:37 PM
I'm no expert but could it be the thinners? I got told not to use general purpose, maybe for primer if you must? Got told to use premium acrylic thinners instead
#6
rodomo
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Posted 25 March 2008 - 02:09 PM
Is it milky coloured or dry looking?
#7
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Posted 25 March 2008 - 03:56 PM
you could buy some retarder thiners to try and stop it.
#8
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Posted 25 March 2008 - 04:53 PM
Rob - Milky coloured, but not all over. Will post a pic tonight.
Com VC might be the thinners but I got them from the paint shop and asked the dude specifically if they are ok for colour and clear and he said yes. But I reckon some proper acrylic thinners would be the go. Or as Kev said, retarder thinners.
Chopper - dunno if it was the fact I had my gun in my hand and I was blowing a milky substance all over the car that embarressed it.... uh, hang on, that sounds deliberately suss.....
Com VC might be the thinners but I got them from the paint shop and asked the dude specifically if they are ok for colour and clear and he said yes. But I reckon some proper acrylic thinners would be the go. Or as Kev said, retarder thinners.
Chopper - dunno if it was the fact I had my gun in my hand and I was blowing a milky substance all over the car that embarressed it.... uh, hang on, that sounds deliberately suss.....
#9
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Posted 25 March 2008 - 06:01 PM
might sound dumb, but l sometimes boil the jug and tip it into the bucket, then just put the paint tin in there for 10min take it out, then give it a good wipe. then your paint will flow nice and wet for a nice wet look. ps the catch can be it can run a bit easy, but give it a go.. 
urkss
urkss
#10
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Posted 25 March 2008 - 06:14 PM
U want fast thinners for cold weather, not slow (retarder).
Or try heating the area, spot lights, oil heaters or what have ya.
Or try heating the area, spot lights, oil heaters or what have ya.
#11
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Posted 25 March 2008 - 06:29 PM
Ok yeah sounds like it was to cold.
Other things i can think of is you put it on to thick in the middle and got solvent boil. Is it cloudy or little bubbles making it look cloudy???
Or the paint brand you used for the Clear. I have used this paint once, and for fear of having my post edited i wont comment publicly.
Thinners would be the last thing i would look at honestly, but some proper Acrylic stuff like Protec R102 would be better.
But yeah basically i think its one of the top two, as i said is it cloudy or little bubbles making it look cloudy??? If it is just cloudy then it was to cold, or more precisely because it was going onto dusk the temp changed to fast, but if its little bubbles then you just put it on to thick.
Either way you gotta sand her back. Sorry mate.
Cheers.
Other things i can think of is you put it on to thick in the middle and got solvent boil. Is it cloudy or little bubbles making it look cloudy???
Or the paint brand you used for the Clear. I have used this paint once, and for fear of having my post edited i wont comment publicly.
Thinners would be the last thing i would look at honestly, but some proper Acrylic stuff like Protec R102 would be better.
But yeah basically i think its one of the top two, as i said is it cloudy or little bubbles making it look cloudy??? If it is just cloudy then it was to cold, or more precisely because it was going onto dusk the temp changed to fast, but if its little bubbles then you just put it on to thick.
Either way you gotta sand her back. Sorry mate.
Cheers.
#12
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Posted 26 March 2008 - 12:21 AM
Bomber - Just seems to be cloudy, no blisters or bubbles. I did it just as the sun was going down and the temp does drop rather quickly and the humidity rises as well. Poor timing I reckon.
No dramas about sanding it back as I expected to stuff it up at some point, might as well be now. Nothing wrong with learning lessons early in the piece.
Will go to the paint shop and get some different clear, had my doubts initially so I should have stuck with gut feeling. Thankfully I only bought a litre.
On the plus side, the bits that didnt go cloudy gave the colour coat a nice gloss and a bit of depth which I wasnt expecting as the colour had a matt finish after blocking back. At least I know Im on the track with the colour.
Thanks for the help fella's, I shall keep youse posted on the progress.
Cheers,
T
No dramas about sanding it back as I expected to stuff it up at some point, might as well be now. Nothing wrong with learning lessons early in the piece.
Will go to the paint shop and get some different clear, had my doubts initially so I should have stuck with gut feeling. Thankfully I only bought a litre.
On the plus side, the bits that didnt go cloudy gave the colour coat a nice gloss and a bit of depth which I wasnt expecting as the colour had a matt finish after blocking back. At least I know Im on the track with the colour.
Thanks for the help fella's, I shall keep youse posted on the progress.
Cheers,
T
#13
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Posted 03 April 2008 - 11:21 PM
Ive been sanding the bonnet to remove the clear coat but its a prick of a job (as Im sure you all know). I am using 400 dry.
How spot on to I have to be with this? I am going to put a few more colour coats on before I clear again and Im just wondering if I have to remove every single bit of clear to do get a good result. My poor weedy arms are suffering.......
Also, I painted the underside (of the bonnet) with just a couple of coats of colour and Im quite happy with the result. If I leave it like that, what is the chance of the paint being ruined by engine heat? Am I best off to clear the underside as well?
How spot on to I have to be with this? I am going to put a few more colour coats on before I clear again and Im just wondering if I have to remove every single bit of clear to do get a good result. My poor weedy arms are suffering.......
Also, I painted the underside (of the bonnet) with just a couple of coats of colour and Im quite happy with the result. If I leave it like that, what is the chance of the paint being ruined by engine heat? Am I best off to clear the underside as well?
#14
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Posted 04 April 2008 - 09:37 AM
Hi big t,can offer some advice,(painter by trade).Your cloudy prob. sounds like blushing (or blooming).Caused by a rapid temp. drop, & the air temp. ends up lower than the panel temp.No other fix than to re-colour & clear,bummer.(sometimes with 2k the blooming disapears when the temp. rises & the paint hardens, but not acryl.),I'd use 400 wet (not dry ) to chop it back,more eficeint & wont leave scratches from build-up.Then go over with 800(wet of course)try to remove all the 400 profile.You don't have to remove all the clear before re-colouring(as long as it's dry & stable),but you want to be carefull to not have to much paint on your bonnet.as engine heat may cause it to craze latter. The amount of paint on the under- side of the bonnet does'nt really matter(your not flattning/buffing it),but agaign,to thick can cause prob.I'd put a wet coat of clear over it,brightens it up & makes it easier to clean/maintain.Cheers Paul.
#15
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Posted 04 April 2008 - 01:57 PM
Nice one Paul !! Thanks for the advice mate. Looks like Ive got a bit of work in front of me this weekend but at least I know not to paint at dusk
Cheers,
T
Cheers,
T
#16
_magnum012_
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Posted 03 May 2008 - 10:37 PM
Just a quick question, why dont you use 2 pack paint?
It uses a hardner so you can guarantee it will be cured because of the chemical hardening process, and it is more resistant to bird sh*t
*Not a fan of acrylic*
It uses a hardner so you can guarantee it will be cured because of the chemical hardening process, and it is more resistant to bird sh*t
*Not a fan of acrylic*
#17
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Posted 04 May 2008 - 03:16 PM
Because he isn't an experienced painter, and is painting in his shed...
Tim
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#18
_SLR_6_
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Posted 04 May 2008 - 07:33 PM
just out of interest, how long does it take a full paint job in acrylic to cure?(so it doesnt melt when thinners gets to it for eg)
#19
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Posted 04 May 2008 - 10:38 PM
Magnum - I sussed out 2 Pac but apparently he got shot and obviously doesnt do paint jobs anymore. Sounds like anything to do with 2 Pac is just asking for trouble...... oh yeah, and what RIM said. Noxious fumes and XXXX might be fun for a little while but I really need to savour what sanity I do have left.
SLR_6 - Acrylic to cure before compounding..... from what Ive heard, a month is good. Some do it after a week but I will be compounding in a month or so.
I sprayed a few clear coats yesterday and blow me down if I didnt get a pastey residue again !! This time I was painting on a clear dry day at noon. The milky/pastey finish was different though because as I give it a wipe with my finger the residue came off. Just like dust. So I figure Ive stuffed something up with spray pressure or not using the right mix of thinner to clear. Anyway I just grabbed a tack rag and wiped the dust off and continued on my merry way. Not the ideal way to paint but I'm getting impatient and just want the bloody paint done. The clear is oranged peeled but if I can flatten it out with wet and dry I'll be happy.
SLR_6 - Acrylic to cure before compounding..... from what Ive heard, a month is good. Some do it after a week but I will be compounding in a month or so.
I sprayed a few clear coats yesterday and blow me down if I didnt get a pastey residue again !! This time I was painting on a clear dry day at noon. The milky/pastey finish was different though because as I give it a wipe with my finger the residue came off. Just like dust. So I figure Ive stuffed something up with spray pressure or not using the right mix of thinner to clear. Anyway I just grabbed a tack rag and wiped the dust off and continued on my merry way. Not the ideal way to paint but I'm getting impatient and just want the bloody paint done. The clear is oranged peeled but if I can flatten it out with wet and dry I'll be happy.
#20
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Posted 04 May 2008 - 11:01 PM
are you sure your not getting moisture through your air lines? try putting an inline filter straight on the end of your gun.
#21
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 04 May 2008 - 11:11 PM
Thinners will always disolve acrylic paint, not matter how old the paint is.
I'd hazard a guess water trap as well. Mounted on the compressor is useless. I run 6m of airline running downhill to the compressor, water trap, then 2m of air line to the gun.
I'd hazard a guess water trap as well. Mounted on the compressor is useless. I run 6m of airline running downhill to the compressor, water trap, then 2m of air line to the gun.
Edited by Yella SLuR, 04 May 2008 - 11:13 PM.
#22
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 04 May 2008 - 11:15 PM
T, thats nothing to worry about.
Thats just fine bits of dry clearcoat overspray landing on the surface. A quick microsand and polish will fix that.
Cheers.
Thats just fine bits of dry clearcoat overspray landing on the surface. A quick microsand and polish will fix that.
Cheers.
#23
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Posted 04 May 2008 - 11:16 PM
Toryman and yella. I reckon that may be the case dudes. When I release the pressure from the compressor tank (via the bung in the bottom) I get a shit load of crap (water and oil?? so it seems). I even get a greasy mixture from the tap but not from the gun or nozzle. My guess is that it builds up in the hose/lines. I'll suss out a filter and see how that goes.
The compressor is dodgy 2.5hp SC unit so I dont expect much from it.
Bomber - thats re-assuring man. When I first saw it I thought "fruit loops, here we go again" but when it wiped off I was happy. At the end of the day Im happy to have a bonnet the same colour as the rest of the car. It may not be a top notch job but at least its MY job and for that, Im satisfied.
The compressor is dodgy 2.5hp SC unit so I dont expect much from it.
Bomber - thats re-assuring man. When I first saw it I thought "fruit loops, here we go again" but when it wiped off I was happy. At the end of the day Im happy to have a bonnet the same colour as the rest of the car. It may not be a top notch job but at least its MY job and for that, Im satisfied.
Edited by Big T, 04 May 2008 - 11:22 PM.
#24
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 04 May 2008 - 11:23 PM
Compressor should be fine for painting, but prolly not much else, i.e. air power tools.
#25
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 04 May 2008 - 11:24 PM
Sounds like bit of a case of overspray this time, but yeah, no water trap won't be assisting, especially near the coast like you are. You may get away with it up here (dry as in summer).
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