how much would it cost for a 10 thou overbore, acid dipping, cam bearing installation and anything else i should get done while i have a bare block?
im a beginner to this but i'd rather do as much as i can myself than 'just get it recoed'. the engine has around 82,000kms on it so the crank and conrod bearings should be ok, however if i was to replace them do i go for the same size as what is in there now? also one of the crank shells fell out of the block when i removed the mains caps, i assume this is a problem, could i get away with new bearings or even reusing the old bearings (although for piece of mind i'd like to do as much new stuff as i can).
the engine will be mild/medium, street only with maybe an amatuer drag once in a while so it doesnt need titanium forged supercharged bolts or unobtainium pistons, but i would like it to be reliable. whats the minimum i could get away with doing in regards to bearings, maching etc?
cheers
chris
Overbore, Engine Machining Costs
Started by
_bon_scott_
, Apr 25 2008 02:26 AM
3 replies to this topic
#2
rodomo
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Posted 25 April 2008 - 08:48 AM
Ha! Ha! Laff, laff, laff!titanium forged supercharged bolts or unobtainium pistons,
A look around the ACL site shows piston oversize not available .010" up.
The smallest o/s being .020".
I think you'll find it's not the "bore and hone" that is so pricey compared to the piston/ring set.
A lot of re-co engines get put together at engine shops with standard cranks that have been linished. Generally crankgrinding is avoided unless the journals are damaged.
Bearings are one of the cheapest components of engine rebuilding so replace them all. (With the exeption of cam bearings which usually only get replaced if damaged).
As someone else mentioned in your other thread, "K-line" the valve guides, synchro seat the valves and machine the head surface and you have a re-co head.
#3
TerrA LX
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Posted 25 April 2008 - 12:00 PM
If the crank and bottom end bearings are good then the cam bearings should be even better, they wear the least, again, take the lot to someone who can measure whats needed and there is no guessing then.
Most engine shops will help u out from personal experience.
If you cant clean everything first, have the shop clean them for u.
Most engine shops will help u out from personal experience.
If you cant clean everything first, have the shop clean them for u.
#4
_bon_scott_
_bon_scott_
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Posted 25 April 2008 - 03:26 PM
I found one bloke on another site who said he got a bore and hone done for $110 which is cheaper than i was expecting. Would it be a good idea to get all new valves? The ones i have aren't too bad (except the two that were smashed 
) but for the price that they are and if i have to get them redone anyway would it make more sense to do it and be done with it, or would i be going overboard?
I was going to take the lot to a shop today but its a public holiday so they were all shut, only remembered after i'd packed everything into the car
Thanks for your advice, i'll see if anyone open around here tomorrow is willing to have a look.
) but for the price that they are and if i have to get them redone anyway would it make more sense to do it and be done with it, or would i be going overboard?I was going to take the lot to a shop today but its a public holiday so they were all shut, only remembered after i'd packed everything into the car
Thanks for your advice, i'll see if anyone open around here tomorrow is willing to have a look.
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