Proportioning Valve
#1
Posted 02 June 2008 - 09:19 AM
#2 _v8slrtorana_
Posted 02 June 2008 - 04:36 PM
Dunno what the difference is.
I used one from a HZ in my torana when i 1st got it. Never did like the pedal feel (the car stopped well), but have changed many things since (including fitting a LH valve) & can't really remember what sort of effect it had.
#3 _revmaniac_
Posted 02 June 2008 - 08:29 PM
#4
Posted 02 June 2008 - 10:04 PM
and by "adjust" what do you mean? can this be done by yourself or do you need to get someone to do it for you?when you throw them in the bin they are all the same....get your hands on a VN-VR booster and master and fit the whole lot....you need to "adjust" the pushrod and obviously the lines but it has the prop valve as part of the master....just remove the bracket from the booster and it bolts in...havent done it to mine yet but a mate put one in his and it was easy
#5 _revmaniac_
Posted 03 June 2008 - 09:32 AM
edit...but these masters would suit rear discs...not sure if any good for drums
Edited by revmaniac, 03 June 2008 - 09:34 AM.
#6
Posted 03 June 2008 - 12:16 PM
ok that would be good if you could check it out. thanks for the edit too becuase i have rear drums. looks like i might just have to stick with the standard gear... unless, would a standard master bolt up to one of these boosters?i believe you have to shorten the pushrod and maybe bush or drill the hole....its on my list of things to check out this weekend...i have the booster and a pulled apart UC to trial fit it onto...will let you know
edit...but these masters would suit rear discs...not sure if any good for drums
#7 _revmaniac_
Posted 03 June 2008 - 01:21 PM
#8
Posted 03 June 2008 - 07:31 PM
Commy booster neads rear rod modified to suit Torana
There are 2 different rod configs depending on the pedals
Torana master does not fit commy booster... no idea why you would want to anyway
Commy master does not fit Torana (cept late UC which had a commy master anyway)
Rear disc or rear drum commy uses the same master
Avail in 15/16 or 1" (1" is torry too)
#9 _revmaniac_
Posted 03 June 2008 - 08:14 PM
#10
Posted 04 June 2008 - 12:13 AM
Is that the imaginary Commodore master I have heard of ?
1" guys... why downsize from original
#11
Posted 04 June 2008 - 07:43 PM
#12 _revmaniac_
Posted 04 June 2008 - 09:49 PM
ive never seen one either but in an article in "RACE" magazine mentions them and i HAVE heard of them....supposed to be on VS commosWho said anything about 1 1/4" ?
Is that the imaginary Commodore master I have heard of ?
1" guys... why downsize from original
#13
Posted 04 June 2008 - 10:09 PM
Sorry ALX76... i think i started the tangent off from your questionMy question had nothing to do with rear disc brakes or commodores.
#14
Posted 04 June 2008 - 10:39 PM
And has nothing to do with Toranas
They ran a plastic booster which is shit too.
Lets not confuse road cars with race cars that ran Internation truck master cylinders and 4 pot AP calipers all round
#15 _revmaniac_
Posted 05 June 2008 - 12:49 PM
#16
Posted 05 June 2008 - 01:16 PM
About 4mm i think.
Smart, cheap modification. Those double diaphram? V8 boosters are getting difficult to find in good nick!
Note: brake lines need mods also if deleting the external proportioning valve.
#17
Posted 05 June 2008 - 08:21 PM
#18
Posted 05 June 2008 - 11:06 PM
Dattoman. Props are different because of the crack pressure for rear discs
It would appear that the answer is no because each prop valve is setup for a specific front/rear brake combination and vehicle braking weight transfer. I would expect that you can rebuild a prop valve from one vehicle using the kit for another to get the desired prop valve.
Fitting a prop valve from a disc/drum vehicle to a disc/disc vehicle will result in reduced rear braking as disc/drum prop valves typically have a lower crack point than a disc/disc prop valve. There may also be differences in the proportioning rate once the crack point is reached.
Here are three articles on the subject.
http://www.stoptech....ng_valves.shtml
http://autospeed.com...45/article.html
http://auto.howstuff...ster-brake2.htm
#19
Posted 09 June 2008 - 05:49 PM
As rear discs are not self energizing like drums they need higher pressure settings, typically 500 to 800 psi.
Anyone know where i would find a list of crack pressures for specific models?
Edited by ALX76, 09 June 2008 - 06:01 PM.
#20
Posted 09 June 2008 - 07:48 PM
Did that help ?
#21
Posted 09 June 2008 - 08:13 PM
#22
Posted 16 June 2008 - 12:47 PM
On a HZ Disc/Disc (statesman) the prop valve is anodized purple and has a 450 crack point. This is done by the large rear spring in the prop valve and on this model it is 39mm long & 2mm thick compared to 27mm long & 2mm thick for the disc/drum(150cp).
I have an old VC commodore Disc/disc 15/16" combo mcyl here which has a 350 CP which I suppose its lower than HZ disc/disc due to the low rear weight of a VC commodore.
BTW. There was an A9X Combo mcyl that sold on ebay last week which had a 550 cp . Initially I thought this was high but I suppose having >100litres of full getting thrown over the back wheels everytime you braked might explain that 550cp.
Edited by fuzzypumper, 16 June 2008 - 12:54 PM.
#23
Posted 16 June 2008 - 08:35 PM
The one on ebay was a falcon or valiant master not A9X
HZ disc disc are not all purple and are different depending whether it got the "ABS" system or not
Its all reasonably irrellevant anyway
Easiest way is to get the hydraulic ratios as close as possible and then play with a manual bias valve
Simple things like different disc pad compounds or tyre size and compound change everything anyway.
#24
Posted 16 June 2008 - 11:19 PM
#25
Posted 16 June 2008 - 11:34 PM
What makes you think its 660?
Here is a LX prop valve with crack point marking. If it not on the side it will be on top.
Edited by fuzzypumper, 16 June 2008 - 11:36 PM.
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