G'day Guys, thanks for the comments. Ive ran it a few times checking things. Need that exhaust on. Just finished getting the thermo fan running and have ran a test with that on and seems to keep cool. Im having a drama with ignition advance, in its going way out when the extra timing comes in. Ive just checked the coil +ve and there is only 8.5V or so, so there must be a resistor wire or something in there somewhere?
I only have 12V at the battery and the alternator does not seem to be doing anything so far, same reading as at the battery. There is S & L connections at the back of the alternator also, ive hooked the existing lead up to the L side and was told the S side goes to coil +. So I have done that too now, but ran it a few times without that one conneted.Ive got the main lead running to the battery. I only have the S & L connections done temporary, but should be getting the proper connector tomorrow. I get the red BATT light to light up on the dash before starting, and usually its supposed to go away once started, but its not going, I pressume thats because im not getting 14V from the alternator?
Will look into it further, but no doubt only 8V at the coil is the cause of the ignition issues.
'74 LH Torana Project
Started by
_BlownOutlaw_
, Jun 13 2008 02:17 PM
160 replies to this topic
#52
TerrA LX
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Posted 25 September 2008 - 05:05 AM
HI Guys
Thanks for the comments. OK on the windscreen de-mister question and suggestions, thats good stuff. I wouldn't mind the heater working if I could hook it up, but Im still not sure where im supposed to connect the hoses too in the manifold or pump?
As Chev LX 77 has stated, pump will be the suction side and manifold will be supply side for the heater as on most V8's.
#53
_BlownOutlaw_
_BlownOutlaw_
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Posted 25 September 2008 - 10:25 AM
Yes, the heater does work guys, its all good, thanks for that.
#54
_BlownOutlaw_
_BlownOutlaw_
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Posted 25 September 2008 - 06:49 PM
G'day again, after some further investigation Ive found that the resistor wire was indeed the cause of all the issues. Ive now fixed that up.
Ive cut the resistor wire where it says do not cut, haha. Ive found the ignition switch connector and actually removed the resistor wire connector from the plug and snipped the resistor wire totally out of it. I spliced into the other pink wire from that connector and soldered it to the new wire going to the coil. Then I had no start ignitin so I had to also cut the yellow wire and feed it also to the lead to the coil.
This in turn gave enough voltage to switch in the alternator and when I started the car and checked coil voltage had 14.3 or so. So everything is good.
Shortly onto the rest of the exhaust system.
Ive cut the resistor wire where it says do not cut, haha. Ive found the ignition switch connector and actually removed the resistor wire connector from the plug and snipped the resistor wire totally out of it. I spliced into the other pink wire from that connector and soldered it to the new wire going to the coil. Then I had no start ignitin so I had to also cut the yellow wire and feed it also to the lead to the coil.
This in turn gave enough voltage to switch in the alternator and when I started the car and checked coil voltage had 14.3 or so. So everything is good.
Shortly onto the rest of the exhaust system.
#55
_BlownOutlaw_
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Posted 26 September 2008 - 02:47 PM
OK so, so far today Ive turned this ....
Into this ......
Looking pretty good so far.
Tail pipes and mufflers in a moment.
Into this ......
Looking pretty good so far.
Tail pipes and mufflers in a moment.
#56
_BlownOutlaw_
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Posted 27 September 2008 - 05:53 PM
We have done some work today with assistance from Kane355 from on here.
We were going to do the exhaust but have decided that be better of taking to an exhaust shop to the the rear section properly.
So we concentrated on getting the brakes working, which we have done after a number of dramas. It has commodore VP rear discs and Hoppers twin spot vented fronts.
Few questions if anyone reads this -
The Handbrake cable.... whats best do ??
The hoppers caliper seems to hit parts of the control arms at the front when they are turned full lock. Is this normal ??
We were going to do the exhaust but have decided that be better of taking to an exhaust shop to the the rear section properly.
So we concentrated on getting the brakes working, which we have done after a number of dramas. It has commodore VP rear discs and Hoppers twin spot vented fronts.
Few questions if anyone reads this -
The Handbrake cable.... whats best do ??
The hoppers caliper seems to hit parts of the control arms at the front when they are turned full lock. Is this normal ??
#57
_LH SLR 3300_
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Posted 27 September 2008 - 08:14 PM
Do they hit the top control arm by any chance? I have HQ discs with HZ Girlock alloy calipers on my LH & when I first fitted them they hit the front lower edge of the top control arm on full lock so I ground a relief. I can take pics tomorrow & post if it's any help.
#58
_BlownOutlaw_
_BlownOutlaw_
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Posted 27 September 2008 - 08:18 PM
Hi slr3300. Thanks for the response. I have my calipers mounted to the rear of the disc if thats any help. I cant take photos later. Maybe I may have to make some reliefs too. Not sure.
#59
_LH SLR 3300_
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Posted 27 September 2008 - 09:21 PM
Hi again Blown Outlaw. My calipers are bolted to the front but if yours foul the top arms bolted to the rear, it may be a matter of doing the same mod I did but in reverse. Too dark to take pics now but can tomorrow. It didn't affect the arms either, been driving mine around for a few months & haven't noticed any problems with them. How are you doing with the rear discs? I decided to put the GT drums back on mine.
#60
_BlownOutlaw_
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Posted 27 September 2008 - 09:41 PM
The rear discs are working, but may have a problem with the handbrake. Im going to have a look at that shortly.
Sorry, in my previous post I meant to type I CAN take photos later, not cant. Typo.
Sorry, in my previous post I meant to type I CAN take photos later, not cant. Typo.
#61
_LH SLR 3300_
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Posted 27 September 2008 - 09:54 PM
Yeah I'm helping a mate do this conversion on his LX hatch but we've run into some dramas. The diff is shortened heaps to fit 15X14 Weld wheels. Tried mounting the caliper to the front, hit the chassis rail, moved to the rear, hit the shock. Have to fix this problem before we look at the handbrake.
#62
_BlownOutlaw_
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Posted 28 September 2008 - 12:24 PM
Photo of the back brakes. As you can see the handbrake cable still hanging down.
Again, nothing has been cleaned up as just trying to get all the engineering and rego done first. Clean up later.
Again, nothing has been cleaned up as just trying to get all the engineering and rego done first. Clean up later.
#63
View GaragePosted 28 September 2008 - 01:43 PM
Seems strange, mine clears fine (that's one of the main reasons I shelled out for the kit). I wasn't sure it would clear the cross member bump to begin with when the suspension was at full droop, but at ride height everything is fine and ride height is quite lowThe hoppers caliper seems to hit parts of the control arms at the front when they are turned full lock. Is this normal ??
Afraid I can't help much with the hand brake cables as I used a Skyline diff, but for various reasons I had a lot of different hand brake cables lying around and managed to find enough pieces to fit everything together without modifying cables, only moved the rear brackets on the body back a little. It might be worth taking some measurements and having a hunt around the wreckers for something that will fit straight in?LHSLR3300 I'd love to see those pics of your relief in the top arm, I had someone with the same setup ask me about this the other day
#64
_LH SLR 3300_
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Posted 28 September 2008 - 06:33 PM
Hi Blown Outlaw don't know if this will be of any help but this is the relief I had to cut on my upper control arms to clear caliper on full lock. I had to do this on both sides.
IMG]https://cache.gmh-to...00/DSC00005.jpg[/IMG]
IMG]https://cache.gmh-to...00/DSC00005.jpg[/IMG]
#65
_LH SLR 3300_
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Posted 28 September 2008 - 06:51 PM
Hi 76lxhatch the photos are posted. I also had to get longer brake hoses made as both LH & HZ ones were too short. I also had to fit a " collar & spring " to keep the hose from rubbing on the tyre when turning. You may be able to see part of this set up in my pics.Seems strange, mine clears fine (that's one of the main reasons I shelled out for the kit). I wasn't sure it would clear the cross member bump to begin with when the suspension was at full droop, but at ride height everything is fine and ride height is quite low
LHSLR3300 I'd love to see those pics of your relief in the top arm, I had someone with the same setup ask me about this the other day
#66
_BlownOutlaw_
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Posted 28 September 2008 - 07:39 PM
SLR3300 thanks for the photos there, very nicely painted too. Your car must be quite low looking at how everything is positioned. I think I need to get the wheels on mine and put it on the ground to check the front brake clearance again. Perhaps this is like as 76LXhatch mentioned about clearance issues when its raised up.
Ive sorted out the handbrake cable with the commodore rear discs, though I havent used it yet as have only completed one side. Im still using the origninal cable set up front to back from my Torana. Ive taken the drum brake cable levers from a Kingswood diff that i have here. Ive then cut them to correct side for this set up and welded them to the existing commodore lever using a TIG. Taken into account the extra cable length and positioned the lever accordingly before welding.
Should be OK. Will find out shortly.
Ive sorted out the handbrake cable with the commodore rear discs, though I havent used it yet as have only completed one side. Im still using the origninal cable set up front to back from my Torana. Ive taken the drum brake cable levers from a Kingswood diff that i have here. Ive then cut them to correct side for this set up and welded them to the existing commodore lever using a TIG. Taken into account the extra cable length and positioned the lever accordingly before welding.
Should be OK. Will find out shortly.
#67
_LH SLR 3300_
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Posted 28 September 2008 - 08:03 PM
Thanks for comment re the paintjob. My Torana sit's pretty low, even with 15s on it, I have a B&M deep pan on my TH350 & my heart leaps into my throat every time I drive over speed humps. The photos were taken at road height & the relief I cut gives more than enough clearence. Well done with sorting out your handbrake, my mate has given up on his for the time being as he's working on it in between jobs at his workshop.
#68
_BlownOutlaw_
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Posted 29 September 2008 - 07:59 PM
Drove the car to get the exhaust finished off today. Its now got dual 2.5 " system with 2 mufflers and an X pipe. Sounds quite nice.
Was the first time I drove it today, front drivers side tyre scraping guards over large bumps. Must lip the front wheel arches. Also when I was reversing into the shed its picked the front lower edge of the guard up and bent it, so will have to cut the edge off that too.
All seems good. Small water leak from the temp sender in the manifold. Surprisingly im only using a 260CCA battery at present and its working rather well.
I didn't take any photos, it looks fairly ugly at present in my view. The engine feels really strong, and the good thing about it is it never went over 4000rpm all day, good power down low. Plus im running it in.
I saw a mechanic re engineering. The fuel cell in the boot is not allowed. Or should I say, its illegal to fill the tank from in the boot. Not sure how to get around it at present.
Was the first time I drove it today, front drivers side tyre scraping guards over large bumps. Must lip the front wheel arches. Also when I was reversing into the shed its picked the front lower edge of the guard up and bent it, so will have to cut the edge off that too.
All seems good. Small water leak from the temp sender in the manifold. Surprisingly im only using a 260CCA battery at present and its working rather well.
I didn't take any photos, it looks fairly ugly at present in my view. The engine feels really strong, and the good thing about it is it never went over 4000rpm all day, good power down low. Plus im running it in.
I saw a mechanic re engineering. The fuel cell in the boot is not allowed. Or should I say, its illegal to fill the tank from in the boot. Not sure how to get around it at present.
#69
_LH SLR 3300_
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Posted 29 September 2008 - 09:00 PM
Congrats on taking it for drive for the first time, I can feel your pain re your fuel cell but you already knew that. On another subject, my tyres don't touch the front guard lips amazingly, but I have bent the lower front corners turning corners, going to try a tricky bit of panel beating to solve this rather than cut the guards. Anyhow glad to hear the Torrie is driving. Would still love to see pics, as you know mine isn't all that pretty either, but has a good heart as I yours does too.
#70
_LH SLR 3300_
_LH SLR 3300_
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Posted 29 September 2008 - 09:22 PM
Been thinking of ways around your fuel cell prob. Is your Torana still regoed?
#71
_BlownOutlaw_
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Posted 29 September 2008 - 09:24 PM
Yeh but your car sits really good. Mine needs to come down about 3" at the back and maybe one at the front.
The cars rego ran out about 2 weeks ago.
The cars rego ran out about 2 weeks ago.
Edited by BlownOutlaw, 29 September 2008 - 09:25 PM.
#72
_LH SLR 3300_
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Posted 29 September 2008 - 09:46 PM
Was thinking you could do an adjustment of records with the RTA. Thats how I got my Chev Torana regoed as a 307 but as your's is out of rego, it has to have a safety inspection done. Have you spoke to an engineer about your car? A mate recommended Werner from TIC in Kirrawee.
#73
TerrA LX
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Posted 29 September 2008 - 11:06 PM
Nice exhaust work mate. Where did you get the bends from and howmuchwasit?
#74
Posted 30 September 2008 - 09:31 AM
BlownOutlaw great to hear you've driven it, that's always the best part!
LH SLR 3300 thanks for the pics, looks good
LH SLR 3300 thanks for the pics, looks good
#75
_BlownOutlaw_
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Posted 30 September 2008 - 09:49 AM
SLR3300- Yes I have spoken to an engineer, which was in relation to the mechanics workshop I went too. Pretty much said I have to get a cover over the air cleaner and then bring it back. But they thought it should all be OK except fot the tank.
ALX76 - The bends came from Geoffs Exhaust in Wagga, they have a mandrel banding machine there. I got the X pipe from there also, which cost me about $130 all up.
76LXhatch - Yes it goes alright too! But I will be happier when I can drive it when its all engineered properly.
ALX76 - The bends came from Geoffs Exhaust in Wagga, they have a mandrel banding machine there. I got the X pipe from there also, which cost me about $130 all up.
76LXhatch - Yes it goes alright too! But I will be happier when I can drive it when its all engineered properly.
Edited by BlownOutlaw, 30 September 2008 - 09:50 AM.
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