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Quality Tie Rod Ends and Ball Joints

Started by antelopeslr5000 , Jun 30 2008 09:33 PM

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54 replies to this topic

#26 _glenn l_

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Posted 28 February 2011 - 08:38 AM

the trw stuff is no better than the other cheaper brands now unless you can find some of the older ones from about 12 years ago.

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#27 _Agent 34_

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Posted 08 March 2011 - 06:07 AM

Can anyone tell me the part no for the Moog ones as ive been on the webside and cannot find the drop down list which says " TORANA" obviously they don't have torana's there

any help would be good, or do i just use the part no for the lx lh series ?, are they the same ?

grant.

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#28 Statler

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Posted 08 March 2011 - 08:47 AM

5103 & 5108

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#29 _Agent 34_

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Posted 09 March 2011 - 07:19 AM

Thanks Statler, for the info in the pm but i need jl ones.

so bump again on this.

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#30 WhaleOilBeefHooked

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Posted 09 March 2011 - 10:43 AM

Thanks Statler, for the info in the pm but i need jl ones.

so bump again on this.

They're the same from LC 2 UC.... We have LS1 HATCH working on the Tie Rod Ends to suit, So hopefully there's a MOOG replacement.... Failing this I will get the TRW T-Rods...

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#31 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 10 March 2011 - 11:12 AM

Does anyone know the TRW part number for the tie rod ends ? I'm doing some looking around for something here that might do the trick...thought it might give me something to start with cross referencing perhaps. Have a couple ones to check into already as well (not sure what thread they are yet, so have to check that first)

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#32 turbo76lx

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Posted 10 March 2011 - 02:21 PM

TRW tie rod end number is TTE195R

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#33 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 10 March 2011 - 02:39 PM

Thanks! Might not cross or even come up over here for anything, but worth a shot. I've got a few spare old ones, so can try and matching them up at the store without ordering a bunch online at least (hopefully :lol:

)

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#34 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 12 March 2011 - 09:01 AM

I've come across a couple tie rod ends that might work...none of the local parts stores have them in stock so will have to order them and see how they go. Will let everyone know what I come up with of course!

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#35 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 12 March 2011 - 09:18 AM

Legend.

Cheers.

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#36 WhaleOilBeefHooked

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Posted 12 March 2011 - 09:31 AM

Hear Hear YOU DA MAN LS1....

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#37 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 12 March 2011 - 09:49 AM

Don't say that yet, ha ha....let's see if I can find something!

I just did the order so hopefully early in the week we'll see how things go

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#38 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 17 March 2011 - 01:50 AM

Rockauto order shows it will turn up tomorrow, so will let everyone know if my first try at matching them up works out. :ph34r:

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#39 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 18 March 2011 - 09:54 AM

Well...I am striking out so far...

It's hard finding something with 9/16" fine thread on the female side of the tie rod end, since we pretty much used steering boxes in everything until the rack steering came along around the same time as metric stuff.

I did find one that looked real promising and ordered it as I said, and it came today! I was really hoping it would do the trick, but unfortunately. The female end is perfect, screwed right onto a spare Torana rack I have around.
The problem is the male end. It's 1/2" fine thread, versus the Torana's 7/16" fine thread. So it will not sit properly into the steering arm (as I tried as well)

So back to the drawing board it looks like...but I will keep at it and try to find something! At least the female/rack side of this one is correct, ha ha...

Some pics, the new one and a spare older Torana one..

Attached Files

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048.JPG 522.52K 0 downloads
050.JPG 460.02K 1 downloads
052.JPG 575.72K 0 downloads
058.JPG 580.75K 1 downloads

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#40 AbsynthHatch

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Posted 18 March 2011 - 12:51 PM

Can't take the steering arms to an engineering shop and have them alter the hole to suit the new tie rod ends

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#41 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 18 March 2011 - 01:58 PM

I could just buy a tie-rod ream and open the hole up myself easily enough, but was trying to find something that was a direct replacement piece, and in a good quality brand like Moog.

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#42 WhaleOilBeefHooked

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Posted 18 March 2011 - 02:19 PM

HUGE THUMBS UP 2 LS1 HATCH Most would have given it a miss...... I 4 one am truelly thankfull no matter what the outcome is.......

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#43 TerrA LX

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Posted 18 March 2011 - 03:28 PM

HUGE THUMBS UP 2 LS1 HATCH Most would have given it a miss...... I 4 one am truelly thankfull no matter what the outcome is.......

+1

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#44 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 19 March 2011 - 01:15 AM

Thanks guys!

Just got to keep at it if there is something here that interchanges, and try to figure it out..

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#45 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 21 March 2011 - 07:30 AM

I spent a couple hours this morning going over a million different parts numbers and applications we had over here...and came up with a couple more possibilites. Ordered a couple of them and will see how they go later in the week when they turn up!

(these should be the right sized studs it looks like as per specs)

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#46 enderwigginau

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Posted 21 March 2011 - 11:11 AM

The last pair of tie-rod ends I got were from OEM and they were perfect with the grease nipple on the back not the side.
Still going strong after ten years too.

Grant..

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#47 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 21 March 2011 - 01:23 PM

I was hoping to find something of decent quality still (which is why I went with USA made Moog for balljoints..seemed like the tie-rod ends out there currently are overseas stuff? (Australian made or USA made would be what I'd prefer personally at least)

By the way...the one in the pictures I got first off to try was a TRW/Federal Mogul made in the USA piece, and definately has a better "feel" to some of the other branded stuff I've seen lately.

I did use an OEM branded from there for a Valiant idler arm, and seemed ok...but I only used the one in my Charger for about a year than switched to rack (so can't say how it would have held up for a longer period of time), and did replace an idler in my old VF ute, but not sure the brand it was (I had a mate buy it for me and brought it over in his luggage, sans box..)

But overall, even the higher quality brands of stuff seem to be lacking compared to the original stuff the cars were built with that went 20 or 30 years some times, and even though worn, still sorta usable.

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#48 WhaleOilBeefHooked

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Posted 21 March 2011 - 04:22 PM

I'm hearin Ya Loud N Clear Jeff & Grant, Don't get me started on disc brake pads as the way they're designed to chew thu guts outa rotors these days is stupid, I pitty Commondore owners as 2 sets of pads with 2 rotor grinds and owners are up for new rotors, The manufacturers havn't changed rotor material so exactly the same rotors as what we used to buy but "MIN THICKNESS" has gone from 20mm to 22mm which is blatant robbery...... Nufin these days is made to last the distance of yesteryear gear and in actual fact it's exactly the opposite.......

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#49 _PeteXU1_

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Posted 24 March 2011 - 08:52 PM

I purchased some lower ball joints today for the LJ from Burson. They are Roadsafe brand (not sure on the quality) and have the castelated nuts. $25 each.