I have no doubts with all the places making flairs for Toranas in the eighties and nineties that there are numerous size variations out there.
Copies of copies of copies you end up way off from what is considered the norm or standard.
what flares have i got ?
Started by
Evan
, Jul 08 2008 12:21 AM
55 replies to this topic
#27
REDA9X
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Posted 08 July 2008 - 10:28 PM
yes, from the factory (well Pattersons' because I know someone will bring that up). Many sedans had L34 rear flares.gday red, just reading the bit about some a9x sedans being fitted with l34 rear flares. do mean from factory? because fella i know recently brought an absinth a9x from sydney way with l34 flares. and i perhaps ignorantly told him that they were incorrect. i guess 30 years around these things doesnt mean you know all
#28
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Posted 08 July 2008 - 10:51 PM
lucky buggers, to be able to change from a9x to l34 to suit wheel changes. my 15+10 us racers hang way out in the breeze on my l34 d-ooooh
#29
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Posted 08 July 2008 - 11:08 PM
In Circuit racing thread Wheels on Wide Bay...hence the panhard rod...Your diff wont allow the rims to sit right...you need to take 25mm off each side or run something like Simmons V5 in Commodore offset....I will check the rolling of 15s and 17s tomorrow and come back to you.i will build the car around those rims Rory they look tough as !!! Seeing your post convinced me to get some.
didn't you have some?
have you put the car through its paces yet with such little clearances? I swear that my rear end moves a few inches. the front not so bad but just annoying.
Evan.
Not unusual for a 17" combo to clear where a 15" one doesnt in my experience but your rollings look pretty right...see what I mean?.
R
Edited by rorym, 08 July 2008 - 11:09 PM.
#30
Evan
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Posted 08 July 2008 - 11:30 PM
just checked out the thread and looks like you are having a blast. Congrats on the trophy too!!!
Mite get the diff out and shortened a little and get a panahard rod bracket done too whylst out.
If i only was practical.
Evan.
Mite get the diff out and shortened a little and get a panahard rod bracket done too whylst out.
If i only was practical.
Evan.
Edited by Evan, 08 July 2008 - 11:31 PM.
#32
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Posted 09 July 2008 - 09:05 AM
My 225/50/15's now scrub since i have lowered the front of my car... The hit the lip on the flare (Must get out the angle grinder and take a bit off)
I took off that lip thing on the chassis as well ages ago to clear some 215/60s i had on for a while...
I took off that lip thing on the chassis as well ages ago to clear some 215/60s i had on for a while...
#33
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Posted 09 July 2008 - 12:47 PM
Evan I trial fitted some 295/50/15's on some simmons recently 15x10's with 5inch rear spacing, they fitted under the back of my sedan with regular type flares and a borg warner that is around 23mm wider per side and they fitted well under the guard/flare, if you cant find some larger type flares closer to you try a PM to rocket, he bought some larger flares for the back of his Jane hatch
#34
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Posted 09 July 2008 - 01:51 PM
cheers for the heads up mrnos!!!
that was just what i was wanting to hear!!!
hey Rory is there any way to fit a panhard bar with a standard fuel tank installed? I dont really wana go fuel cell.
Evan.
that was just what i was wanting to hear!!!
hey Rory is there any way to fit a panhard bar with a standard fuel tank installed? I dont really wana go fuel cell.
Evan.
#36
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Posted 09 July 2008 - 02:51 PM
Another shot to verify what has already been answered:
These are 15 x 10's with 5" backspace, wearing 265/50's. Standard length diff, with the small flares. No scrubbing issues at all. Tyres sit inside the flare.
Another thing to keep in mind and look for when trying to work out if your rims are the correct offset or not for your particular diff length, is to simply check how much clearance you have on the inside. If you are using all the available space, your inside tyre sidewall should not have much clearance left to the bodywork of the car. The main place from my personal experience is the lower area towards the rear (on my car I just have clearance - but when I fit my 275 slicks, I've had to slightly bash this area with a hammer to gain the extra 5 or 10 mm I needed).
So if you look under your car and you find you have a good inch or two or more of clearance, it proves your rims could definitely go further inwards.
These are 15 x 10's with 5" backspace, wearing 265/50's. Standard length diff, with the small flares. No scrubbing issues at all. Tyres sit inside the flare.
Another thing to keep in mind and look for when trying to work out if your rims are the correct offset or not for your particular diff length, is to simply check how much clearance you have on the inside. If you are using all the available space, your inside tyre sidewall should not have much clearance left to the bodywork of the car. The main place from my personal experience is the lower area towards the rear (on my car I just have clearance - but when I fit my 275 slicks, I've had to slightly bash this area with a hammer to gain the extra 5 or 10 mm I needed).
So if you look under your car and you find you have a good inch or two or more of clearance, it proves your rims could definitely go further inwards.
#37
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Posted 09 July 2008 - 03:11 PM
Here you go.. more pics after I lowered mine a few inches, still plenty of clearance:
#38
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Posted 09 July 2008 - 03:14 PM
Mine actually seem to sit in more than that.Another shot to verify what has already been answered:
These are 15 x 10's with 5" backspace, wearing 265/50's. Standard length diff, with the small flares. No scrubbing issues at all. Tyres sit inside the flare.
Another thing to keep in mind and look for when trying to work out if your rims are the correct offset or not for your particular diff length, is to simply check how much clearance you have on the inside. If you are using all the available space, your inside tyre sidewall should not have much clearance left to the bodywork of the car. The main place from my personal experience is the lower area towards the rear (on my car I just have clearance - but when I fit my 275 slicks, I've had to slightly bash this area with a hammer to gain the extra 5 or 10 mm I needed).
So if you look under your car and you find you have a good inch or two or more of clearance, it proves your rims could definitely go further inwards.
Im also about to get a set of 16x10 B45's fitted with 265/610/16 dunlop slicks, so i'll post them up soon too.
#39
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Posted 09 July 2008 - 03:18 PM
So do mine (As you can see from the pic above of my car) Which makes me think my diff might not be standard length... My Convos are 15X10 with 5" Backspace (Same as LXCHEV's) I am also running HZ Drum Brakes on the rear (same as LXCHEV does too)
#40
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Posted 09 July 2008 - 03:29 PM
What is the standard diff length? (I assume this is measured from Bolt Up Face to Bolt Up Face?).
Next time my car is jacked up, I will take an accurate measurement of mine, as I've never actually confirmed it is indeed standard length - that's just what I was told when I bought the diff 2nd hand many years ago.
My passenger side does also seem to sit in slightly further than the drivers side (not much), so it's also possible my diff is not 100% centered.
Next time my car is jacked up, I will take an accurate measurement of mine, as I've never actually confirmed it is indeed standard length - that's just what I was told when I bought the diff 2nd hand many years ago.
My passenger side does also seem to sit in slightly further than the drivers side (not much), so it's also possible my diff is not 100% centered.
#42
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Posted 09 July 2008 - 04:43 PM
Sup Ev, took some photos of my rear wheels for ya. I run a 7" rim, 40P offset ( 128.9mm backspace) with a 25mm widened diff on an unflared hatch. You can see how it looks HERE.
The rim isn't wide enough for the wheel well, but you can see what backspace you need for the diff length. Looking at the pictures, you need around 140mm, or a bit more than 5.5" backspace, and around a 13P offset, but its best to measure than guess. This will tuck the wheels in as close to the car body as possible.
Go see how much space you have between the tyre and the inner guard wall, if there is a fair bit of space, see what backspacing you have, might have the wrong rim. Depending whats cheaper ya could shorten the diff or get new rims. But I still reckon there should be some bigger flares out there.. probably the cheapest fix.
.
The rim isn't wide enough for the wheel well, but you can see what backspace you need for the diff length. Looking at the pictures, you need around 140mm, or a bit more than 5.5" backspace, and around a 13P offset, but its best to measure than guess. This will tuck the wheels in as close to the car body as possible.
Go see how much space you have between the tyre and the inner guard wall, if there is a fair bit of space, see what backspacing you have, might have the wrong rim. Depending whats cheaper ya could shorten the diff or get new rims. But I still reckon there should be some bigger flares out there.. probably the cheapest fix.
.
Edited by Aidan, 09 July 2008 - 04:48 PM.
#43
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Posted 09 July 2008 - 04:47 PM
285 40 15 wide flares
#44
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Posted 09 July 2008 - 04:49 PM
here it is with 15x 10 all round with slicks 280 wide. I could still turn the wheels at the front without hitting the guards at all
#45
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Posted 09 July 2008 - 08:40 PM
Lots of good help here guys!
cheers for the pics Aiden!, Im pretty sure that i have a bit more room under the car to shorten the diff if required. I will have a good look tomorrow to make sure, but as you said it would probable be easier and cheaper to get new flares, especially if you have seen the state of my flares atm to get the wheels to not scrub. Not happy.
Cheers for the pics Red. Its tripping me out that you can get 10inch rims with 280 wide tyres on the front! Looks tough as and amazing you dont get any rubbing. How does it handle being that high?
I was at wilko's today and he swore black and blue to me that you can not get a 10ich rim on the front of an LX and they never run them when they were racing them. I thort they did.
He also reckon that running an panhard bar is a waste of time and is never done. Strange how opinions differ.
Either way the Torry drives a lot better now and made the steering a lot lighter.
Evan.
cheers for the pics Aiden!, Im pretty sure that i have a bit more room under the car to shorten the diff if required. I will have a good look tomorrow to make sure, but as you said it would probable be easier and cheaper to get new flares, especially if you have seen the state of my flares atm to get the wheels to not scrub. Not happy.
Cheers for the pics Red. Its tripping me out that you can get 10inch rims with 280 wide tyres on the front! Looks tough as and amazing you dont get any rubbing. How does it handle being that high?
I was at wilko's today and he swore black and blue to me that you can not get a 10ich rim on the front of an LX and they never run them when they were racing them. I thort they did.
He also reckon that running an panhard bar is a waste of time and is never done. Strange how opinions differ.
Either way the Torry drives a lot better now and made the steering a lot lighter.
Evan.
#46
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Posted 09 July 2008 - 09:02 PM
As another yard stick for wheel---tyre----flare combos,I had a hatch with 15 X10 hotwires FR. & RR. ,( I'm not sure of the off-set of those wheels,is it 0, or slighty pos.,perhaps someone can tell me), A9X diff (gen.), A9X front end (HQ stubs & hubs), A9X flares, (accurate dimensions),285(actual section width) X 570 (OD.) slicks on the front, & 300 x 620 rear,......& 24mm spacers on the rear!. The body & flares were cut out to the max. (thats no lip on the flares at all), & the car was very low, although very heavily sprung,(1500 LBS. front),can't re-call rear. The flares were in the correct positions,it had good lock, & didn't rubb.
#47
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Posted 09 July 2008 - 10:17 PM
Evan, your mate is wrong, the A9X race cars ran 15x10" all round. You need the right offsets to do it right of course. The rims I had in that picture were the Mawers when I first bought them, the offsets were spot on which allowed them to be fitted without modification. I however had new rims made so I only have 8" on the front with 225/50 15. The rears I had made the same as original and fitted 285/40 15. The car sits on original springs so it looks a little high. The fact is the A9X, even in race form did sit high, (have a look at an original Group C A9X) lowering them doesn't really make the handling any better. I never drove the car with those slicks on, they were old, very old as in off an L34 race car so I didn't trust them at all.
#48
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Posted 09 July 2008 - 11:53 PM
Interesting read there RED and prrojo
Wilko's isn't my mate. He runs a suspension shop here in WA and races a LJ torry at barbagallo too. He Is ment to be a guru, but a few thing he said raised my eyebrow this arvo.
He said for me to leave the rear springs Standard Pound and not to make them 1200's like the front. Is that true too or is it better to run 1200's in the rear too?
Evan.
Wilko's isn't my mate. He runs a suspension shop here in WA and races a LJ torry at barbagallo too. He Is ment to be a guru, but a few thing he said raised my eyebrow this arvo.
He said for me to leave the rear springs Standard Pound and not to make them 1200's like the front. Is that true too or is it better to run 1200's in the rear too?
Evan.
Edited by Evan, 09 July 2008 - 11:55 PM.
#49
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Posted 10 July 2008 - 03:23 AM
Makes sense to have softer springs in the rear, it'll help with traction when accelerating, and cornering. If you make the rear springs too hard it'll skid/bounce through a corner like a drift car, and won't hook up as good.
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