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what is mini tubbed?

Started by _lexa_ , Feb 21 2006 09:44 PM

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18 replies to this topic

#1 _lexa_

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Posted 21 February 2006 - 09:44 PM

i have heard this phrase alot on these forums and cant for the life of me figure out what it means, can anyone give me a quick run down? (simple language for a simple person helps too

)

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#2 _Jewboy_

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Posted 21 February 2006 - 10:00 PM

With Mini tubs they remove your original wheel wells and fit new ones that can extend upto the chassis rail, But Full tubs require the rail to be cut/modified and moved.

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#3 Heath

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Posted 21 February 2006 - 10:14 PM

...so you can fit ultra phat tyres in there to increase traction (for example, in a drag car) and it also helps if you wanna lower your car shitloads and you need some more space in there.

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#4 GML-31

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Posted 22 February 2006 - 01:21 AM

its done more often to fit wide wheels without cutting rear and fitting flares.

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#5 gtrboyy

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Posted 22 February 2006 - 07:56 PM

Looks like this boot & inside car.Hope this helps.

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#6 mrlctorana

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Posted 22 February 2006 - 08:38 PM

Hey gtrboyy, Where did you mount your shocky's, did you change the mounts on the diff at all???

Cheers

Les

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#7 gtrboyy

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Posted 22 February 2006 - 08:48 PM

There is a bar welded with brackets for the coil-overs between the rails.You can get brackets that you weld to the diff to mount the coil-overs.

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#8 _lexa_

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Posted 22 February 2006 - 08:52 PM

thanks alot guys, and gtrrboy those photos did help alot. thanks again

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#9 mrlctorana

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Posted 24 February 2006 - 10:15 AM

Any chance you could post some pics gtrboyy? Im seriously thinking about it so i can fit some 8inch rims n slicks under there comfortably. Although i would like to keep the shocky's in the same place, Do the coil-overs make any difference to handling abilty.

Les

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#10 gtrboyy

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Posted 24 February 2006 - 12:24 PM

I originally wanted to have the bottom diff brackets off the std diff swapped over & have the shocks mounted just inside the rails like the Haddad cars,swap where the bottom shock mount from outside of rail to inside.I did nolathane bushes&welded c/arms with std rubbers in the diff housing.It hooks up really well but is too rough & noisey with the nolathane bushes,I also think my springs are too stiff.I tried to get pics but they dont show up clearly.

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#11 _chief_

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Posted 24 February 2006 - 04:19 PM

If it interests anyone, heres a picture of the LX PRO1 torana. His shocks have been moved to the other side of the mount but the spring is still in the standard position. The other thing he has done is notched the rear rail for tire clearance. PRO1 has 10 inch rims with 275/50/15 0n them.
In my LX I mini tubbed it notched and reinforced the front rail and had the rear rail moved inward. I got rid of the standard suspension and fitted coilovers. Now I can comfortably fit a 13.5 inch wide slick on my car and it has NO FLARES.
This is a bit of work in an LX/LH but my mate has an LJ and after looking under that it is alot easyer to do on an LJ/LC because the rear rail comes strait back from the wheel arch, it doesnt turn towards the side of the car like an LX/LH.
I also put a pic of my car with 13.5' slicks on it.
Posted Image

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#12 _OLC383_

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Posted 24 February 2006 - 04:47 PM

i would like to do the same to my LC but in QLD you are not allowed to relocate the shockies in a street regestered car, but if i square the std tub i should still beable to fit a 26x8" slick without moving the shockies which should help, my car has already ran 10.65 @ 127mph with 235/60x14 M&H Racemasters on the rear but not consistantly which hopefully slicks will do.

Edited by OLC383, 24 February 2006 - 04:50 PM.

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#13 _MAWLER_

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Posted 24 February 2006 - 05:01 PM

Did you do the mini-tubbing and rail adjustment yourself CHIEF? I'd be interested in how much it cost for the work to be done, it might be a little bit more for a lot less stuffing around than just squaring up the tub.

Cheers,

Liam.

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#14 gtrboyy

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Posted 24 February 2006 - 07:42 PM

You could do it this way mrlctorana,it would probably handle better & still give the clearance you need & be cheaper than buying coil-overs.(RDP LJ) Posted Image

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#15 _chief_

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Posted 24 February 2006 - 10:23 PM

Did you do the mini-tubbing and rail adjustment yourself CHIEF? I'd be interested in how much it cost for the work to be done, it might be a little bit more for a lot less stuffing around than just squaring up the tub.

Cheers,

Liam.

Liam, I worked out what I wanted and took my measurements and ideas to a so called 'professional fabricator' to do the work. He did a very very average job on my car and to get it right is going to cost me some $$$$. If you are going to get the rails cut make sure the car is set up on a jig.(mine wasn't and now the back rails sit abit lower than the original rails did, which is making my back doors rub on the wheel tubs)
The cost to do the square shouldered tubs was around $1350 but its cutting down the diff, buying billet axles, buying and installing coilovers, engineering, etc that makes the $$$$ add up.
Living in Melbourne you should be able to find a heap of good fabricators to do the job, just look at thier actual work and not at photos and articles (like I did) before handing over your car and $$$$.

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#16 mrlctorana

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Posted 24 February 2006 - 11:39 PM

You could do it this way mrlctorana,it would probably handle better & still give the clearance you need & be cheaper than buying coil-overs.(RDP LJ)

Yeah Sweet, Thenks gtrboyy, Thats sort of along the lines of what i was thinking. Steves car is a good example, do you have photos of his car in the boot???

Cheers

Les

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#17 gtrboyy

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Posted 26 February 2006 - 11:32 AM

No photos of boot,it was all trimmed out with false floors etc.

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#18 _MAWLER_

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Posted 27 February 2006 - 12:23 PM

O.k, thanks CHIEF. I don't mind moving the shocks but am not interested in touching the springs at all, I'm just wanting to get a bit of extra room not go to coilovers etc., which as you say is where the $$$ start to mount up.

$1500 might be a bit much for the bank balance at the moment, because yeah, have to shorten the diff, 33 spline axles, new rims and tyres. I might have to just be content with doing a bit of trimming and not the mini-tubs - 265/275 is still a reasonable improvement tho and will increase my grip heaps, leaving me with about a 10" slick. Then we will see the times tumble!! :spoton: