G'day NVS084, The rear spoiler was sanded with a small hand held air sander with about 100 grit paper then primered with a 2K undercoat to fill any of the little imperfections.
Hope this helps
Ruts.
I'll show you how I cut guards from start to finish
Started by
Ruts
, Jul 29 2008 05:27 PM
146 replies to this topic
#101
Ruts
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Posted 26 May 2009 - 12:59 PM
#102
_Hotwire_
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Posted 25 December 2009 - 01:20 PM
This is a top pinned thread on cutting a LH/LX sedan panels for flares. Has anyone done a similar thread for the LX hatchbacks, i had a quick search but couldn't find one off hand?
Cheers
Cheers
#103
_toranajohn_
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Posted 18 March 2010 - 08:22 PM
hey ruts very nice job , i just fitted my flares , i nearly bought a set of a guy on ebay from south oz as he had a front flare that is longer than the l34 about 50mm , only reason i didn't go that way was i wanted to see a set fitted on a car first and he wanted $1100 for a complete set up spoilers and flares .i didnt have to cut anything and am running 8" convo pro's,3. 3/4backspace its a touch high but will live with that untill the new springs settle ,.
#104
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Posted 12 April 2010 - 04:22 PM
hey ruts very nice job , i just fitted my flares , i nearly bought a set of a guy on ebay from south oz as he had a front flare that is longer than the l34 about 50mm , only reason i didn't go that way was i wanted to see a set fitted on a car first and he wanted $1100 for a complete set up spoilers and flares .i didnt have to cut anything and am running 8" convo pro's,3. 3/4backspace its a touch high but will live with that untill the new springs settle ,.
I'm just about to buy a set of A9X flares from a guy in Sutherland who use to be part of Fibresports. His kits are second to none and well priced. He has the original moulds from Fibersports who I think had the best A9X style flares on the market. They always fit with minimal modifications.
#105
_76_torana_
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Posted 17 April 2010 - 03:31 PM
hey there ruts. im fitting flares to my lx 4door atm. iv cut the doors pretty much the same way you have but not as much because im only putting 14x8's under it with 245's. i was just wondering how you went with putting the very top bolt in the rear door flares?? there isnt enough room to get your hand in the door to hold a nut in place and was worried about getting a longer bolt and going all the way through because it might hit the wheel arch when you close the door, and not to mention it would look a little dicky. just wondering how you did it on the yellow machine? thanks mate. id be shagged without this write up. awesome stuff. 
Edited by 76_torana, 17 April 2010 - 03:33 PM.
#106
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Posted 19 April 2010 - 10:48 AM
Hello buddy, glad to here your having a go. In response to your problem I have found that where I mount the flare I always have enough room to a nut on. You might not be able to get your hand in there so what you do is put the nut in a ring spanner and then hold the nut over the hole by holding the open end of the spanner (or other end of a double ended ring spanner). Before you put the nut on put the bolt in the hole until it hits the inside of the door. You then measure how much of the bold is still sticking out the door. The amount that is out the door is the amount the I would cut off the threaded end of the bolt. This way when you put the flare on the bolt will not hit the inner door because when you put the flare on you will have the thickness of the flare, the piping and the washer under the nut to further space the bolt out so that way the bolt will go no where near the inner door. Just remember to put the nut on the bolt and run it right down to the head of the bolt before cutting the bolt. That way when you take the nut off it will clean up the thread on the bolt to make it easier to put back on. Hope this helps and let me know how you go.
More good threads coming soon.
Ruts
More good threads coming soon.
Ruts
#107
_YTsLH_
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Posted 06 May 2010 - 12:23 PM
Hey Ruts, fantastic thread mate. I'll be following this one start to finish. Im after a set of A9X flares and was wondering if I could get the "guy in Sutherland who use to be part of Fibresports" details. Would he do front and rear spoiler's as well?
YT
YT
#108
_connors_
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Posted 15 June 2010 - 10:17 AM
Ruts,
New to the forum and from what I have seen that is a class act. Well done sir.
Cheers
New to the forum and from what I have seen that is a class act. Well done sir.
Cheers
#109
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Posted 15 June 2010 - 05:15 PM
Ruts,
New to the forum and from what I have seen that is a class act. Well done sir.
Cheers
Thanks mate I very much appreciate your comment. It's comments like yours that make it all worth while and makes me want to do more. Keep a look out soon for plenty more 'how to' threads. And by the way don't ever call me sir as 'I work for a living'.
Cheers mate.
#110
_Liam_
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Posted 15 December 2010 - 09:50 PM
Nice work Ruts. I have one question about the cutting of the guards. The front of the rear guard, I wonder why you didn't cut more off it to make it look more rounded?
76_torana: Alternatively to Ruts idea, you can place some electrical insulation tape on to your open ring spanned, just across the flat face of it (You can put it over the top to secure it there, but the stickiness of the tape will hold it in place.) then poke it up to where you can see the nut through the hole in the guard, put your bolt into it, and get your thred started and you can pull the spanner away, the tape with it, remove tape and you may resume tightening the nut. But if you need to cut the bolt do what Ruts said, then commence the same procedure as above.
76_torana: Alternatively to Ruts idea, you can place some electrical insulation tape on to your open ring spanned, just across the flat face of it (You can put it over the top to secure it there, but the stickiness of the tape will hold it in place.) then poke it up to where you can see the nut through the hole in the guard, put your bolt into it, and get your thred started and you can pull the spanner away, the tape with it, remove tape and you may resume tightening the nut. But if you need to cut the bolt do what Ruts said, then commence the same procedure as above.
#111
_ls1torana_
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Posted 08 June 2011 - 04:32 PM
Nice work Ruts. I have one question about the cutting of the guards. The front of the rear guard, I wonder why you didn't cut more off it to make it look more rounded?
76_torana: Alternatively to Ruts idea, you can place some electrical insulation tape on to your open ring spanned, just across the flat face of it (You can put it over the top to secure it there, but the stickiness of the tape will hold it in place.) then poke it up to where you can see the nut through the hole in the guard, put your bolt into it, and get your thred started and you can pull the spanner away, the tape with it, remove tape and you may resume tightening the nut. But if you need to cut the bolt do what Ruts said, then commence the same procedure as above.
top job mate do you want to do myn for some extra cash for yourself cheers
#112
_Liam_
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Posted 09 June 2011 - 07:30 PM
I'm assuming you are talking to Ruts, I'm in QLD mate, so mightn't work too well. haha
#113
_REG SLR 5000_
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Posted 29 October 2012 - 07:50 PM
Thanks allot guys this verry good help time to pull out the grinder and welder cheers 
#115
_29day_
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Posted 01 October 2014 - 11:29 AM
New to the forum is there something I need to do to be able to see the pictures
#116
dattoman
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Posted 01 October 2014 - 08:15 PM
Nope
Ruts needs to cut down his bandwidth and porn usage
#117
Potta
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Posted 02 October 2014 - 09:40 PM
New to the forum is there something I need to do to be able to see the pictures
A time machine may help.
If you go back to 2008 you will probably be able to see them.
#118
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Posted 04 March 2015 - 02:24 PM
Ruts, god i enjoyed reading through your excellent work that was awesome.im still not sure if i want to try this one myself so if anyone can recommend someone in Victoria that could tackle a job like this it would be much appreciated. and thanks again for an awesome post mate :-)
#119
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Posted 10 March 2015 - 10:00 PM
Bloody hell I haven't been on here for ages. Good see that people still read and comment on this thread. May have to do a few more, like I said I was going to do years ago....lol.
#120
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Posted 10 March 2015 - 10:47 PM
Yes... its been a unanimous vote that your slack and need to lift your game
#121
myss427
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Posted 11 March 2015 - 12:43 PM
Ruts, have you finished the spray booth you were making? that was another thread i was very interested in.
Edited by myss427, 11 March 2015 - 12:43 PM.
#122
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Posted 20 March 2015 - 01:46 AM
Ruts, have you finished the spray booth you were making? that was another thread i was very interested in.
Funny you should ask about the booth, I have been working on it over the last few months on and off and it's coming along nicely. I'll update the thread in the next week or so.
#123
_stocaz78_
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Posted 06 May 2015 - 07:23 AM
Sorry what brand is that fibremat filler ?
#124
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Posted 10 June 2015 - 08:03 PM
This is a awesome thread I've read through about 10 times, thanks for an excellent read.
Ruts you mentioned you were going to do another one with a car that hadn't already had some cutting done on it. Did you get that done or is it still in the pipeline for the future?
Look forward to another excellent read
Ruts you mentioned you were going to do another one with a car that hadn't already had some cutting done on it. Did you get that done or is it still in the pipeline for the future?
Look forward to another excellent read
#125
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Posted 28 June 2015 - 08:14 PM
Plenty more happening.
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