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1UZ into LH/LX

Started by _Sprog_ , Aug 03 2008 04:24 PM

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231 replies to this topic

#51 _studricho_

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Posted 04 September 2008 - 09:13 PM

Your a nut, a torana nut. Keep them pics coming.

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#52 _Sprog_

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Posted 14 September 2008 - 07:23 PM

Ive had a productive week.
After 6 weeks of weather probs, got my pilots licence flight test done.
And finished making the drivers side primaries.

Posted Image

Just have to TIG them up now

Edited by Sprog, 14 September 2008 - 07:25 PM.

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#53 _Sprog_

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Posted 14 September 2008 - 07:28 PM

Some pics of the engine on the x-member
Posted Image

Edited by Sprog, 14 September 2008 - 07:28 PM.

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#54 _Sprog_

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Posted 21 September 2008 - 07:49 PM

Engine back in to finish up exhaust. dummied up the brake booster as well
Posted Image

Heaps of room.
Posted Image

Edited by Sprog, 21 September 2008 - 07:50 PM.

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#55 _HatchmanSS76_

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Posted 22 September 2008 - 10:30 PM

It's tight but it does fit.

Can't wait to see it fiished and running.

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#56 _studricho_

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Posted 23 September 2008 - 06:34 AM

That looks great, like it belongs. Once the radiator/shroud are in it will fill that engine bay nicely.

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#57 _Sprog_

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Posted 23 September 2008 - 06:22 PM

Had the day off from work today.
Compleatly rebuilt the drivers side exhaust, 4-1's
couldnt get equal length, it's just too tight (i'll post pics when i pull the engine back out.

There will be miles of room in front of the engine

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#58 _Sprog_

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Posted 24 September 2008 - 09:13 PM

Another header pic. (version 2)
Posted Image

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#59 _studricho_

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Posted 25 September 2008 - 01:16 AM

My neighbour runs a motor sport engineering shop. Basically builds drag cars and custom everything including exhaust. I've seen the work involved in what your are doing and it's amazing to watch them come to life, the headers I mean.

I modified a set of extractors once to fit an RB30 set into a UC body and that took me about 10 hours.

Funny thing was that I changed my mind and sold off all the parts...Don't you just love these projects?

By the way keep up the good work.

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#60 _Sprog_

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Posted 25 September 2008 - 06:48 PM

it was quite involved.
i took ages, just cutting bends and trying to work out how to put them together and make it all fit.
it's a good thing the other side is much more open, shouldn't take anywhere near as long.

Working with hot stainless pipe in a cramped engine bay can be very painful.
i might start a topic "Injuries sustained while working on you car"

Edited by Sprog, 25 September 2008 - 06:51 PM.

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#61 Toranamat69

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Posted 25 September 2008 - 08:24 PM

Very nice pipes - keep up the good work mate.

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#62 _Sprog_

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Posted 21 October 2008 - 09:07 PM

Just saw that CRS are tooling up to make 1uz-Torana extractors

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#63 _studricho_

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Posted 22 October 2008 - 07:38 AM

Just saw that CRS are tooling up to make 1uz-Torana extractors

Don't you hate that?

Like anything you get from them it probably be about a gizzillion dollars and you'll have to alter it to make it fit. You get much more satisfaction from doing it yourself anyway.

Despite all the burns and injuries.

I still have a scare to this day from slicing just above my thumb on a greasy RB30 block. I cleaned as much as I could, but you can see something still trapped there.

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#64 _Sprog_

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Posted 11 November 2008 - 07:47 PM

Quick update.
Motor back out, just noticed sump needs some mods.
worked out how to get the exhausts to go forward, so i can mount turbo's.
started paint stripping and seam welding engine bay.

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#65 _Sprog_

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Posted 17 November 2008 - 08:41 PM

Paint stripper is working well, found lots of spider web looking bits of surface rust.
mig welding not so good, might have to borrow the tig from work.

im planing on using kill-rust gloss black for the engine bay and underside.

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#66 _Sprog_

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Posted 30 November 2008 - 06:47 PM

Sill paint stripping.
I takes bloody ages, but sand/soda blasting would cost about $2000. Bugger that
Anyone know of a faster way?
Here's some photo's
Posted Image

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#67 _Lxrana_

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Posted 30 November 2008 - 07:07 PM

Great work Sprog. I just finished paint stripping my engine bay too. I applied a thick layer of stripper then scrapped it of gently with a paint scrapper. Then I applied another coat of stripper and used steel wool to scrub the rest off. It came up a treat. Then I hit it with a wire wheel to finish it off. Good luck with it mate, you get more satisfaction knowing you did it yourself rather than pay someone a couple of grand to soda blast it.

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#68 _Sprog_

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Posted 30 November 2008 - 07:23 PM

Thats pretty much how i'm doing it.
i figure for the same price as getting someone to blast it i could take two weeks off work and paint strip it full time.

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#69 _Messer_

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Posted 30 November 2008 - 07:31 PM

Interesting conversion, Sprog. Nice work.

Oh, and I love the VB product placement as well.

Messer

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#70 _Sprog_

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Posted 30 November 2008 - 07:47 PM

i Should see if i can get sponsorship from them.

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#71 _studricho_

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Posted 30 November 2008 - 07:53 PM

I borrowed my mates $170 monza drum type sand blasting. I was buying the 20 kilo bags from anywhere from $10-$20 a bag depending on how many I bought.

For example the engine took about 2-3 hours to do and we used about 3 bags. The hardest part was getting rid of the sand afterward.

It made even the paint pack bare metal respray paint off pretty easy. I had a few issues with the gun blocking and then the nozzle valve fail due to having half on thinking it would slow the flow. It only made a hole in the side of the valve after about an hour.

When we came to do the pillars with the original paint/primer and 2 pac, it sliced through like nothing. We used paint stripper for the large flat areas and it worked a treat.

If I had my time again I'd do it the same. Love the beer picture.

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#72 _Sprog_

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Posted 08 January 2009 - 08:13 PM

Still striping paint. i've done the engine bay and half of the underside. it's a crappy job, can't wait to get to the fun stuff.
i'll have to pick a paint colour (any sugestions?) and head over to the paint shop to get some por15 and paint, soon.

A bloke from work crashed his vs commodore last week. i bought it off him for $500. Should be good for brakes, seats, air-con etc.
Just need some HX tonner stubs to fit the brakes. if anyone knows where i can get a set, please let me know.

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#73 _Sprog_

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Posted 05 February 2009 - 04:09 PM

Update
I Scored a set of A9x front stubs from a wreaker. $25 ea. Not bad
Slowly finishing up grinding and undercoating the enine bay, Its too hot to get much done.
I've gone off the POR15, Too expensive. Kill rust gloss black will do.

Anyone got a pic of a CRS Chassis strengthening kit?

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#74 _HatchmanSS76_

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Posted 05 February 2009 - 04:18 PM

Anyone got a pic of a CRS Chassis strengthening kit?

Check out my cardomain site on the link "before I rolled it " in my signature below. It may give you some idea. I think some pics on the brake page may have pics of the front position too (can't be exactly sure thou. No time to check, about to go home fro the day)