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1UZ into LH/LX

Started by _Sprog_ , Aug 03 2008 04:24 PM

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231 replies to this topic

#101 _Sprog_

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Posted 16 November 2009 - 06:38 PM

Pics of the new toys

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#102 _Sprog_

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Posted 18 November 2009 - 06:12 PM

The Engine runs!!!
Had it started this arvo, sounds awesome with no exhaust. but im just a little bit deaf now.

#103 Heath

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Posted 18 November 2009 - 06:28 PM

That's awesome mate!

#104 _Sprog_

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Posted 18 November 2009 - 07:02 PM

I while ago i found some drawings with dimensions for a drop tank. They where in the forums somewhere.
cant find them now, can anyone find them? or re-post
Thx

#105 _Sprog_

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Posted 02 December 2009 - 02:42 PM

Found em.

#106 _Sprog_

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Posted 30 December 2009 - 06:46 PM

Update...

Moved to the rear end now. Fixing up rust in the beaver panel. (who comes up with these names?)

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A bit of bog will fix the dodgy weld.
Note: Get the goopy black stuff out from behind this pannel bafore welding!!!

Thant's all the rusty bits done.
I'll have to pick a colour soon, i'm thinking of going to VG auto paints in girraween, anyone hade any experience with them?
I'm going to "borrow" some freezer paneling and an extractor fan from work, to build a spray booth.

Edited by Sprog, 30 December 2009 - 06:48 PM.

#107 _Sprog_

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Posted 30 December 2009 - 06:58 PM

While im here, Pics of bathurst.

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Three days later...

#108 _Ben_

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Posted 30 December 2009 - 09:59 PM

i always go to VG. I think they are good, but i havent used anyone else

#109 _Sprog_

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Posted 11 January 2010 - 03:04 PM

Chassis spacings
Soarer
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870mm centers

Torana 815mm

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#110 _Sprog_

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Posted 18 January 2010 - 05:29 PM

Anyone know of a handbrake setup that isn't too hard to fit?

#111 Potta

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Posted 18 January 2010 - 06:07 PM

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#112 greens nice

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Posted 18 January 2010 - 09:39 PM

A dirty of qaddie Spreadbore !

Attached Files


Edited by greens nice, 18 January 2010 - 09:39 PM.

#113 _Sprog_

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Posted 18 January 2010 - 10:22 PM

lol. one that can be engineered.

#114 Heath

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Posted 18 January 2010 - 11:16 PM

hahaha don't come here for good advice!

#115 _dirtbag_

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Posted 19 January 2010 - 12:13 AM

If you can get hold of a buggered UC, just cut the tunnel section out where the handbrake mounts and the cables go through the floor and weld it in.

#116 _Sprog_

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Posted 06 February 2010 - 04:13 PM

I have a wreked commodore i might cut the hand-brake out of. It mounts under the tunnel, just have to see of it will miss the g-box

The engine in the half-cut has a rear sump, might see if i can get away with a slight x-menber mod.

Edited by Sprog, 06 February 2010 - 04:15 PM.

#117 _conceptss_

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Posted 06 February 2010 - 05:09 PM

I have a wreked commodore i might cut the hand-brake out of. It mounts under the tunnel, just have to see of it will miss the g-box

The engine in the half-cut has a rear sump, might see if i can get away with a slight x-menber mod.


The "rear" soarer sump actually sits too far forward. Don't modify your X member - Purchase an alloy sump rail or drawings. ABC laser cutters in Carrum downs has the dimensions from opne of their customers who will charge about $200 for a thick rail from memory including the rear bellhousing plate. His ebay and Lextreme user name is elliotaw. Grab a spare engine block - (stripped down preferably) turn it upside down. Fit the bellhousing. Bolt up the rail and rear plate ( you'll probably have to change a few bolt access methods. There are a few sump bolts that actually are accessed frm the removable oil pan on your model. Set your new pan up so they are external bolts. You may need to weld wide pipe over the top of the bolt holes to give tunnel access for sockets. You will defineately have to do this for some of the rear rail bolts. You wont have much pan xmember clearance below 1234 piston area. You'll probably have to make the sump very wide to ensure enough volume and under car clearance. (make sure it doesn't sit any lower than a standard torana sump and you'll be right. Only weld the sump after while it's fitted to the block and bellhousing. Make sure the correct factory torque spec. and sequence is used (same theory as cylinder head sequencing) This will ensure bare minimal warping of the sump. If you do it any where else it will bend/twist heaps. There are no one I have found that do an off the shelf sump that uses all of the bellhousing bolts. Hadfield and Quad Cams Australia's reasoning was "we've never seen any break yet so why use the 7th and 8th bolts"

#118 dattoman

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Posted 06 February 2010 - 05:53 PM

Update...

Moved to the rear end now. Fixing up rust in the beaver panel. (who comes up with these names?)



Yeah... you'd naturally think the beaver panel was at the front

#119 _Sprog_

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Posted 07 February 2010 - 06:20 PM

Yeah, it dont fit.
Would need too much taken out of the x-member.
Going to mod the CRS one (again), but going to use 3mm plate for streangth. and include a wing on the left side to mount the low oil sensor and dipstick.

#120 _Sprog_

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Posted 07 February 2010 - 07:30 PM


Update...

Moved to the rear end now. Fixing up rust in the beaver panel. (who comes up with these names?)



Yeah... you'd naturally think the beaver panel was at the front


at least it's nice and smooth

Edited by Sprog, 07 February 2010 - 07:30 PM.

#121 _Sprog_

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Posted 13 February 2010 - 03:10 PM

Started welding up new sump today.
Deciced to go with Aluminium, and use the original steel pan.

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Edited by Sprog, 13 February 2010 - 03:13 PM.

#122 _Sprog_

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Posted 17 February 2010 - 04:43 PM

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#123 _Sprog_

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Posted 25 February 2010 - 04:14 PM

Almost done.

just have to weld on a couple more bits and make up the dipstick boss.

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And do some grinding to clean it up and make it look pretty.

Edited by Sprog, 25 February 2010 - 04:15 PM.

#124 TerrA LX

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Posted 25 February 2010 - 05:31 PM

Nice work on the sump.

No problems with VG paints here either.

#125 _Sprog_

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Posted 12 March 2010 - 03:38 PM

Couple of random pics.

The Workshop
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Engine with moded CRS pick-up
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Edited by Sprog, 12 March 2010 - 03:40 PM.

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