1UZ into LH/LX
#101 _Sprog_
Posted 16 November 2009 - 06:38 PM
#102 _Sprog_
Posted 18 November 2009 - 06:12 PM
Had it started this arvo, sounds awesome with no exhaust. but im just a little bit deaf now.
#103
Posted 18 November 2009 - 06:28 PM
#104 _Sprog_
Posted 18 November 2009 - 07:02 PM
cant find them now, can anyone find them? or re-post
Thx
#105 _Sprog_
Posted 02 December 2009 - 02:42 PM
#106 _Sprog_
Posted 30 December 2009 - 06:46 PM
Moved to the rear end now. Fixing up rust in the beaver panel. (who comes up with these names?)
A bit of bog will fix the dodgy weld.
Note: Get the goopy black stuff out from behind this pannel bafore welding!!!
Thant's all the rusty bits done.
I'll have to pick a colour soon, i'm thinking of going to VG auto paints in girraween, anyone hade any experience with them?
I'm going to "borrow" some freezer paneling and an extractor fan from work, to build a spray booth.
Edited by Sprog, 30 December 2009 - 06:48 PM.
#107 _Sprog_
Posted 30 December 2009 - 06:58 PM
Three days later...
#108 _Ben_
Posted 30 December 2009 - 09:59 PM
#109 _Sprog_
Posted 11 January 2010 - 03:04 PM
Soarer
870mm centers
Torana 815mm
#110 _Sprog_
Posted 18 January 2010 - 05:29 PM
#111
Posted 18 January 2010 - 06:07 PM
#112
Posted 18 January 2010 - 09:39 PM
Attached Files
Edited by greens nice, 18 January 2010 - 09:39 PM.
#113 _Sprog_
Posted 18 January 2010 - 10:22 PM
#114
Posted 18 January 2010 - 11:16 PM
#115 _dirtbag_
Posted 19 January 2010 - 12:13 AM
#116 _Sprog_
Posted 06 February 2010 - 04:13 PM
The engine in the half-cut has a rear sump, might see if i can get away with a slight x-menber mod.
Edited by Sprog, 06 February 2010 - 04:15 PM.
#117 _conceptss_
Posted 06 February 2010 - 05:09 PM
I have a wreked commodore i might cut the hand-brake out of. It mounts under the tunnel, just have to see of it will miss the g-box
The engine in the half-cut has a rear sump, might see if i can get away with a slight x-menber mod.
The "rear" soarer sump actually sits too far forward. Don't modify your X member - Purchase an alloy sump rail or drawings. ABC laser cutters in Carrum downs has the dimensions from opne of their customers who will charge about $200 for a thick rail from memory including the rear bellhousing plate. His ebay and Lextreme user name is elliotaw. Grab a spare engine block - (stripped down preferably) turn it upside down. Fit the bellhousing. Bolt up the rail and rear plate ( you'll probably have to change a few bolt access methods. There are a few sump bolts that actually are accessed frm the removable oil pan on your model. Set your new pan up so they are external bolts. You may need to weld wide pipe over the top of the bolt holes to give tunnel access for sockets. You will defineately have to do this for some of the rear rail bolts. You wont have much pan xmember clearance below 1234 piston area. You'll probably have to make the sump very wide to ensure enough volume and under car clearance. (make sure it doesn't sit any lower than a standard torana sump and you'll be right. Only weld the sump after while it's fitted to the block and bellhousing. Make sure the correct factory torque spec. and sequence is used (same theory as cylinder head sequencing) This will ensure bare minimal warping of the sump. If you do it any where else it will bend/twist heaps. There are no one I have found that do an off the shelf sump that uses all of the bellhousing bolts. Hadfield and Quad Cams Australia's reasoning was "we've never seen any break yet so why use the 7th and 8th bolts"
#118
Posted 06 February 2010 - 05:53 PM
Update...
Moved to the rear end now. Fixing up rust in the beaver panel. (who comes up with these names?)
Yeah... you'd naturally think the beaver panel was at the front
#119 _Sprog_
Posted 07 February 2010 - 06:20 PM
Would need too much taken out of the x-member.
Going to mod the CRS one (again), but going to use 3mm plate for streangth. and include a wing on the left side to mount the low oil sensor and dipstick.
#120 _Sprog_
Posted 07 February 2010 - 07:30 PM
Update...
Moved to the rear end now. Fixing up rust in the beaver panel. (who comes up with these names?)
Yeah... you'd naturally think the beaver panel was at the front
at least it's nice and smooth
Edited by Sprog, 07 February 2010 - 07:30 PM.
#121 _Sprog_
Posted 13 February 2010 - 03:10 PM
Deciced to go with Aluminium, and use the original steel pan.
Edited by Sprog, 13 February 2010 - 03:13 PM.
#122 _Sprog_
Posted 17 February 2010 - 04:43 PM
#123 _Sprog_
Posted 25 February 2010 - 04:14 PM
just have to weld on a couple more bits and make up the dipstick boss.
And do some grinding to clean it up and make it look pretty.
Edited by Sprog, 25 February 2010 - 04:15 PM.
#124
Posted 25 February 2010 - 05:31 PM
No problems with VG paints here either.
#125 _Sprog_
Posted 12 March 2010 - 03:38 PM
The Workshop
Engine with moded CRS pick-up
Edited by Sprog, 12 March 2010 - 03:40 PM.
2 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 2 guests, 0 anonymous users