8 replies to this topic

[TerrA LX]

Ur best off with a turbo block upto 1976.
There are over 120 differences between blocks but ur main concern here is gearbox mounting and vintage for rego compliance.

EDIT; you could well use any block and if it is for competition purposes i would be using one of the later VN on, preferably a VS block.

Edited by ALX76, 07 August 2008 - 12:22 PM.

[gtrboyy]

If you're going to go the stroker route you don't need a vs block if using h beam rods,still have to grind the block more for rod clearance so pay a little less & get the vn.For rego purposes it's less hassle to use one with correct letters/numbers qt(kingy) or ht(lh/lx) or 11qt(stato) if you can find a good rebuilder.

[yel327]

This is basically how it goes (ignoring head, piston etc variations):

HT-HQ: red, Holden pattern only, neoprene rear main, short inner (valley) head bolt bosses. HP or 308 on side.

HJ-HZ, LH-LX, VB: red, Holden and Chev pattern, rope rear main, short inner (valley) head bolt bosses. 308 on side.

(LH SLR5000 L34 option left out as you wouldn't be using one of these).

WB, VC-VK, E & M series Bedford: blue and black, Holden and Chev pattern up till sometime in 1982, rope rear main, long (valley) head bolt bosses. 308 on side, possibly 5.0 on late VK.

VL: black, Holden pattern, rope rear main, long (valley) head bolt bosses. 5.0 on both sides.

VN-mid VR: black, Chev pattern, rope rear main, long (valley) head bolt bosses. 5.0 on both sides.

Mid VR-mid VSIII: black, Chev pattern, rope rear main, long (valley) head bolt bosses. Blank pad on both sides, rod bolt clearance for 350 (5.7) engine in base of bores.

Late VSIII and VT: black, Chev pattern, rope rear main, long (valley) head bolt bosses, roller lifter mounts in valley. Blank pad on both sides, rod bolt clearance for 350 (5.7) engine in base of bores.

Plus there are a few other variations around like the all alloy aftermarket blocks, and stuff that Repco did for F5000 and Group C. As others above have said anything from LH/HJ onwards is OK but be careful of emissions ADR's. The early blocks are worth more to restorers of HT-HQ Monaros and GTS's (308H, 308N prefix and less than QT550000 or about NT3000 or thereabouts) than you'll pay for a later example so ignore them. Same for original Torana stuff (ie HT or NT prefix). If you want to build a 350 stroker the late VR onwards is easiest but you may have emissions problems, State dependant of course. Early blue blocks are good if you are putting them in a post 6/76 Torana as they were still ADR27A in early WB and VC. Or you could also hunt down one of the GMH replacement block & pistons kits for VN-VSIII as these may not have an engine number on them.

[TerrA LX]

Thats about 33 easily identifiable differences, don't forget All the brocks, VL GPA, VN GPA etc etc.

[yel327]

Yeah, I didn't bother too much with those for the same reason as the L34 blocks ie you wouldn't bother using those blocks in a street car stroker as they are too valuable to waste - you'd buy a new alloy block for what you'd sell one for!

[tsn007]

I am confused

did all red/blue 308's have a rope seal

 

how come you can get neoprene seal for red/blue 308's

[mick_in_oz]

All Holden V8 from HJ (or there abouts) onwards have rope rear seal. There is a neo seal from a Buick v6 that some people fit with a bit of trimming. The Rope cranks have an angled knurling on the seal journal and it is larger in diameter, and not interchangeable, but it can be ground down to suit an early neo block.

 

None of the engine blocks vn and later have long inner head bolt bosses, they have no boss at all, as the EFI style head does not have these bolts.