Just weld it wherever it touches................................she'll be right! 
Fitting a R31 Skyline B/W diff to LH/X
Started by
_rorym_
, Aug 10 2008 11:00 AM
310 replies to this topic
#251
rodomo
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Posted 15 February 2014 - 08:31 PM
#252
View GaragePosted 16 February 2014 - 08:58 AM
The shock mounts are quite close to the brakes (I had to remove the calipers to get the shocks off with the standard lower mounts) but shouldn't hit?
I ended up welding a bracket on top of the lower arm mount and using the shorter HQ length shocks on mine anyway, this moves them inboard a touch for wheel clearance and gives a few more options for performance shocks.
Unfortunately it turns out that the Falcon diff has more centre offset than the Skyline one so using the rear cover doesn't place the link centrally. I think I'd prefer to set it up with the outer ends attached to the diff anyway. One day...
I ended up welding a bracket on top of the lower arm mount and using the shorter HQ length shocks on mine anyway, this moves them inboard a touch for wheel clearance and gives a few more options for performance shocks.
Ideally it would be useful to ensure minimal binding but as long as it doesn't bind throughout suspension travel not completely necessary.On the subject of the Watts Link wouldn't you want parallel upper arms for this to work properly ?
Unfortunately it turns out that the Falcon diff has more centre offset than the Skyline one so using the rear cover doesn't place the link centrally. I think I'd prefer to set it up with the outer ends attached to the diff anyway. One day...
#253
_a.vas_
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Posted 16 February 2014 - 01:23 PM
Hi Anthony, I had same problem fitting these discs to a shortened 9", I redrilled the calliper brackets to the only possy they don't foul on anything = around 4--5 o-clock position, Which also made the standard LJ handbrake cables the perfect length... So using the BW maybe all that's needed it to elongate the 4 holes to move bracket slightly......
Hi Andrew, I thought about this but it would still be very close and dont like how inaccessible the shock still is. I had a look at the handbrake mechanism and not sure if it would work if i re-position the caliper to the front either.
#254
_a.vas_
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Posted 16 February 2014 - 01:29 PM
rodomo, i see no issue with welding to the shock 
The shock mounts are quite close to the brakes (I had to remove the calipers to get the shocks off with the standard lower mounts) but shouldn't hit?
I ended up welding a bracket on top of the lower arm mount and using the shorter HQ length shocks on mine anyway, this moves them inboard a touch for wheel clearance and gives a few more options for performance shocks.
Unfortunately it turns out that the Falcon diff has more centre offset than the Skyline one so using the rear cover doesn't place the link centrally. I think I'd prefer to set it up with the outer ends attached to the diff anyway. One day...
I like this idea! looks pretty neat too! cheers
#255
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 16 February 2014 - 03:11 PM
Hi guys,
just in the middle of this conversion and the bolt head on the hand brake lever fouls the shock! Any simple ways to get around this??
cheers
So what have you done different to Rorym? Normally it is only a problem for people using Commodore diffs and disc brakes.
Edited by ls2lxhatch, 16 February 2014 - 03:11 PM.
#256
_a.vas_
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Posted 16 February 2014 - 06:15 PM
It could only be that the lower brackets have been welded a little off? Although I've measured it side by side with my old diff housing and relative to each other they are identical, so i'm not sure.
Oh well, all in a days work. cheers 76lxhatch
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Edited by a.vas, 16 February 2014 - 06:22 PM.
#257
_gorto_
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Posted 29 March 2014 - 12:16 PM
Fitted a borg warner to my LC. It has 3.5 gearing, 28 spline billet axles and a harrop/eaton trutrac.
#258
N/A-PWR
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Posted 29 March 2014 - 01:16 PM
I love that new shock mounting position 76 and Anthony,
I had mine butted up on the original mount, I will do that one now too. Dave I
nice Torana Ryan
#259
torana_nick
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Posted 24 September 2014 - 02:53 PM
hey guys sorry to dig up an old thread. Best for all the info to be in the same place I guess...
My skyline diff is about to get converted, after some reading I understand that it's about 10mm longer each side
I just need to know if anyone has succefully fitted this conversion to a none flaired torana and run a decent size wheel?
My skyline diff is about to get converted, after some reading I understand that it's about 10mm longer each side
I just need to know if anyone has succefully fitted this conversion to a none flaired torana and run a decent size wheel?
#261
_modified_
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Posted 20 October 2014 - 07:11 PM
just got a r31 diff made to fit a UC torana.
the hub on the end of the axle flanges is smaller than the hole in my wheels. isnt this what holds the load of the wheels.
should i need to get a sleeve machined up that is interference fit over skyline hub with an O.D to suit my commodore wheels.
also in Victoria you cannot have redrilled axle flanges or discs. will not pass an engineers.
vic roads has a paragraph about it in its modification guide on there web site also.
#262
dattoman
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Posted 20 October 2014 - 07:41 PM
Not sure how that works when you have manufacturers like DBA who make discs with 2 different stud patterns , and wheel makers who have multi patterns
And yes get hubcentric spacers for the wheels
#263
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 21 October 2014 - 01:15 AM
just got a r31 diff made to fit a UC torana.
the hub on the end of the axle flanges is smaller than the hole in my wheels. isnt this what holds the load of the wheels.
should i need to get a sleeve machined up that is interference fit over skyline hub with an O.D to suit my commodore wheels.
The hub is not load bearing. The sole purpose of the hub is to help align the wheel to the axle before the wheel nuts are tightened. Once the wheel nuts are tightened there will be a visible gap between the centre of the rim and the axle hub.
If the hub was load bearing then it would have a taper or the wheel would need to be pressed onto the axle. The majority of hub centric adaptors are made of plastic which is obviously not suitable for load bearing. It is interesting however that the NCOP specifies metal. You should be able to buy plastic adaptors to suit you rims from a tyre shop.
Extract from page 15 of the NCOP11_Section_LS_Suspension_and_steering_3Feb2006.pdf
Tyre Bible
HUB CENTRIC
Definition: A wheel that is centered or located on the hub by a machined center hole-as opposed to "lug centered" wheels that are located by the position of the lug nuts alone.
Edited by ls2lxhatch, 21 October 2014 - 01:16 AM.
#264
_modified_
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Posted 21 October 2014 - 05:26 PM
The hub is not load bearing. The sole purpose of the hub is to help align the wheel to the axle before the wheel nuts are tightened. Once the wheel nuts are tightened there will be a visible gap between the centre of the rim and the axle hub.
If the hub was load bearing then it would have a taper or the wheel would need to be pressed onto the axle. The majority of hub centric adaptors are made of plastic which is obviously not suitable for load bearing. It is interesting however that the NCOP specifies metal. You should be able to buy plastic adaptors to suit you rims from a tyre shop.
ok thanks, ill stop worrying about it.
#265
_brenolx_
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Posted 21 January 2015 - 10:18 AM
Hey guys I'm about to do this conversion on my lx and just wanted to check that all gears are created equal? I was planning to use 3.45 gears from a N/A 6cyl VL will this be alright or is there a stronger option? I won't be running crazy power just a mild 308 and supra 5 speed
#266
Posted 21 January 2015 - 11:27 AM
Any M75 (0575 on the crownwheel) gears will fit the R31 housing. Mine has 3.45s at the moment
#267
_Growler_
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Posted 20 October 2015 - 06:14 PM
OK got me diff. Thinking this is probably the hardest (maybe) part of my build. Im gonna have a crack at this. Below is how im "planning" on doing it. Yell out if im doing it all wrong. I've got a boily whos coming over to do the welds, happy days
* Cut all mounts off the borgy except brake line clips
* Line it up level with the banGO ie unis on the same level, and width centered between the two ie if the borgy is 20mm wider split the difference evenly over the bango diff?? Mark with a straight edge off the existing brackets their new location on the borgy
Is it worth paying $280+ delivery on a bracketry kit like in the link datto posted, or no benefit and use the old ones (not gunna be a racing car)??
* Attach the cut off (or new) brackets to their components (upper and lower arms shock mounts spring seats) and jack or ratchet the diff to meet em,
*Tack weld everything in place, remove and fully weld.
* Next I'll deal with the stud pattern, weld and redrill??
That it? What have I missed, and what's got the potential to trip me up?
#268
Posted 20 October 2015 - 08:09 PM
Ideally make a jig to hold the control mounts, build it around the Banjo then you can transfer directly to the new housing. You may want to leave the sway bar mounts on it so you can upgrade to the decoupled style bar.
#269
TerrA LX
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Posted 21 October 2015 - 04:45 AM
That it? What have I missed, and what's got the potential to trip me up?
The housing bending or buckling, is your mate good with heat shrinking?
#270
_Growler_
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Posted 21 October 2015 - 08:01 PM
I dunno. Hes a fella from work. Phark don't wanna twist the bastard
#271
Posted 22 October 2015 - 05:08 AM
As with all welding it will pull things out of line so you can expect it to warp. A good welder manages this by spreading out the welds in a manner that alternates the heat and pulls things back into line. Worst case scenario you can run a bead down the opposite side of the axle tube to achieve this, and slowly grind it flush after. You should have some means of measuring that the ends of the axle tubes are straight.
.JPG)
#274
Posted 23 October 2015 - 04:06 AM
^ That would be ideal but there's a fair amount of room for movement in the factory axle spline, I would be more concerned about making sure the wheel alignment will be right. The cast centre won't move around like a Banjo or sheet metal nine inch.
#275
_Darklord_
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Posted 05 June 2016 - 11:44 AM
How much power can they take? Looking at having around 4-450rwhp. Also how much does it cost to get one (tossing up if I can get away with one of these as a 9" is big$$)? Anything like a truetrac available for them? How hard is it to change ratio's?
Cheers
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