310 replies to this topic

[rodomo]

Just weld it wherever it touches................................she'll be right!

[76lxhatch]

The shock mounts are quite close to the brakes (I had to remove the calipers to get the shocks off with the standard lower mounts) but shouldn't hit?

I ended up welding a bracket on top of the lower arm mount and using the shorter HQ length shocks on mine anyway, this moves them inboard a touch for wheel clearance and gives a few more options for performance shocks.

On the subject of the Watts Link wouldn't you want parallel upper arms for this to work properly ?

Ideally it would be useful to ensure minimal binding but as long as it doesn't bind throughout suspension travel not completely necessary.

Unfortunately it turns out that the Falcon diff has more centre offset than the Skyline one so using the rear cover doesn't place the link centrally. I think I'd prefer to set it up with the outer ends attached to the diff anyway. One day...

[ls2lxhatch]

Hi guys,

 

just in the middle of this conversion and the bolt head on the hand brake lever fouls the shock! Any simple ways to get around this??

 

cheers

 

So what have you done different to Rorym? Normally it is only a problem for people using Commodore diffs and disc brakes.

 

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 16 February 2014 - 03:11 PM.

[N/A-PWR]

I love that new shock mounting position 76 and Anthony,

I had mine butted up on the original mount, I will do that one now too. Dave I

 

nice Torana Ryan

[torana_nick]

hey guys sorry to dig up an old thread. Best for all the info to be in the same place I guess...
My skyline diff is about to get converted, after some reading I understand that it's about 10mm longer each side
I just need to know if anyone has succefully fitted this conversion to a none flaired torana and run a decent size wheel?

[76lxhatch]

Try this:

 

http://www.gmh-toran...-with-r31-diff/

[dattoman]

Not sure how that works when you have manufacturers like DBA who make discs with 2 different stud patterns , and wheel makers who have multi patterns

 

And yes get hubcentric spacers for the wheels

[ls2lxhatch]

just got a r31 diff made to fit a UC torana.
 the hub on the end of the axle flanges is smaller than the hole in my wheels. isnt this what holds the load of the wheels.
should i need to get a sleeve machined up that is interference fit over skyline hub with an O.D to suit my commodore wheels.

 

The hub is not load bearing. The sole purpose of the hub is to help align the wheel to the axle before the wheel nuts are tightened. Once the wheel nuts are tightened there will be a visible gap between the centre of the rim and the axle hub.

If the hub was load bearing then it would have a taper or the wheel would need to be pressed onto the axle. The majority of hub centric adaptors are made of plastic which is obviously not suitable for load bearing. It is interesting however that the NCOP specifies metal. You should be able to buy plastic adaptors to suit you rims from a tyre shop.
 
Extract from page 15 of the NCOP11_Section_LS_Suspension_and_steering_3Feb2006.pdf
 


Tyre Bible

HUB CENTRIC
Definition: A wheel that is centered or located on the hub by a machined center hole-as opposed to "lug centered" wheels that are located by the position of the lug nuts alone.

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 21 October 2014 - 01:16 AM.

[76lxhatch]

Any M75 (0575 on the crownwheel) gears will fit the R31 housing. Mine has 3.45s at the moment

[76lxhatch]

Ideally make a jig to hold the control mounts, build it around the Banjo then you can transfer directly to the new housing. You may want to leave the sway bar mounts on it so you can upgrade to the decoupled style bar.

[TerrA LX]

That it?  What have I missed, and what's got the potential to trip me up?

 

The housing bending or buckling, is your mate good with heat shrinking?

[76lxhatch]

As with all welding it will pull things out of line so you can expect it to warp. A good welder manages this by spreading out the welds in a manner that alternates the heat and pulls things back into line. Worst case scenario you can run a bead down the opposite side of the axle tube to achieve this, and slowly grind it flush after. You should have some means of measuring that the ends of the axle tubes are straight.

[ls2lxhatch]

To do the job properly you will need an axle alignment bar, otherwise you may find the diff eats bearings.
 
Something like this. More info here

[76lxhatch]

^ That would be ideal but there's a fair amount of room for movement in the factory axle spline, I would be more concerned about making sure the wheel alignment will be right. The cast centre won't move around like a Banjo or sheet metal nine inch.