Easiest way would be to change the flare nut on the hard line at the rear to a metric one. Normal stuff about changing proportioning valve to suit rear discs and removing residual pressure valve apply but you can keep the existing master.that's not the issue, I can geet the connection changed, my only worry is will the brakes work with said master cyl/booster setup.
Fitting a R31 Skyline B/W diff to LH/X
#176
Posted 21 July 2010 - 10:26 PM
#177 _tyre fryer_
Posted 22 July 2010 - 12:19 AM
That's exactly what I needed to hear, and the stuff with the prop. valve goes without saying, luckily I have a VERY good brake good that is always happy to help.Easiest way would be to change the flare nut on the hard line at the rear to a metric one. Normal stuff about changing proportioning valve to suit rear discs and removing residual pressure valve apply but you can keep the existing master.
that's not the issue, I can geet the connection changed, my only worry is will the brakes work with said master cyl/booster setup.
Paul, I'll give them a ring tomorrow and see if they can price match, might even get a price war going on between the two.
#178 _Chamois hatch_
Posted 26 July 2010 - 06:13 PM
ready to go, total cost was $957.
this included
rewelding the bracketry redrilling axles and rotors, new pinion bearings, and also setting it up correctly with the LSD center i provided. Pretty happy with the results.
Took them 2.5 weeks like they said it would. No problems.
i have a question though. What tailshaft are you other boys using??? is there an easy solution, or do i need a custom shaft?
#179
Posted 26 July 2010 - 09:18 PM
#180 _Chamois hatch_
Posted 28 July 2010 - 05:06 PM
#181 _keg006_
Posted 28 July 2010 - 05:53 PM
Cheers
#182
Posted 28 July 2010 - 06:43 PM
The flange on the BW adds extra length (requiring shorter shaft) compared to a U bolt type yoke - hopefully you may just squeak in if they cut the weld off on the lathe to avoid losing too much lengthSince I'm running a 9inch ATM, it'll probably be too short. might have to find a standard shaft then.
#183
Posted 23 August 2010 - 11:33 AM
Hi Chmois hatch, can i ask you where you got your diff done? Which diff did you supply them? And roughly how much did you shorten them by. I got some crazy prices quoted as of yesterday. One diff place refused to do a uc torana to B/W. I plan on keeping a commodore pattern and brakes.
Cheers
I would be interested to hear what others experience was like with UC B/W conversions. The UC upper arms are much closer together (~280mm V ~400mm) than the LH/LX, placing the upper mounting points over the cast housing. Using 2 short VN axles and centering the housing, still places the majority of welding over the cast steel housing, which I suspect will cause problems when it comes to engineering.
Cheers
Matt
#184 _rorym_
Posted 23 August 2010 - 11:52 AM
got my diff back today,
ready to go, total cost was $957.
this included
rewelding the bracketry redrilling axles and rotors, new pinion bearings, and also setting it up correctly with the LSD center i provided. Pretty happy with the results.
Took them 2.5 weeks like they said it would. No problems.
i have a question though. What tailshaft are you other boys using??? is there an easy solution, or do i need a custom shaft?
Both of mine were custom made for the Toploader to B/W.
R
#185 _brett_32i_
Posted 23 August 2010 - 09:11 PM
#186 _@milco@_
Posted 11 November 2010 - 03:41 PM
#187
Posted 11 November 2010 - 07:42 PM
#188 _markbeath_
Posted 26 November 2010 - 10:48 AM
#189
Posted 26 November 2010 - 12:46 PM
There are many variables involved including
Engine torque
First gear ratio
Tyres/Slicks
Driving style
Diff centre
Welding quality and upper arm bracket design
Edited by ls2lxhatch, 26 November 2010 - 12:47 PM.
#190 _markbeath_
Posted 29 November 2010 - 10:11 AM
The short answer is probably, which 5 spedd do you have?
There are many variables involved including
Engine torque
First gear ratio
Tyres/Slicks
Driving style
Diff centre
Welding quality and upper arm bracket design
Well i'll be building the everything over the next year but will most likely have the Tremec TKO.
The car will running street tyres and run mainly on the street with the usual occasional track/strip.
#191
Posted 29 November 2010 - 11:08 AM
On street tyres you should not have any problems with the BW78. However I would replace the BW LSD with a Lokka or KAAZ.
#192
Posted 27 January 2011 - 11:59 AM
Hoping to get VL Calais rims on atleast for the beginning but i've got my eye on some 8.5" convo pros that fit perfectly on a VH
#193 _@milco@_
Posted 27 January 2011 - 12:16 PM
i will be getting my rims changed to 4.75 back spacing as this a better backspacing for a lx sedan
but there is heaps of clearance inregards to the diff.
#194
Posted 27 January 2011 - 01:20 PM
i'm not into flares so i'm trying to work out what i can get under the stock guards
#195
Posted 27 January 2011 - 02:56 PM
#196
Posted 27 January 2011 - 07:08 PM
#197
Posted 27 January 2011 - 07:23 PM
#198
Posted 27 January 2011 - 07:27 PM
#199
Posted 29 January 2011 - 09:17 AM
#200
Posted 31 January 2011 - 05:37 PM
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