A steering ratio of 18:1 means that the steering wheel is turned 18 degrees to turn the wheels 1 degree.
The steering ratio is a combination of how far the rack moves when the steering wheel is turned and the length of the steering arm from the pivot point. A longer steering arm will require more rack movement than a short arm to turn the wheel 1 degree.
Parts Bin suspension
Started by
_Sprog_
, Aug 11 2008 08:00 PM
76 replies to this topic
#76
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 05 August 2011 - 02:47 AM
#77
_XY driver_
_XY driver_
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Posted 03 November 2016 - 10:43 PM
G'day blokes,
I've been lurking a bit here and trying to learn a bit about overhauling the front end on old mate's LX sedan. He's fitted a blown 400 Chev running EFI on alcohol, so I guess you could say he's serious about doing skids. Now that the front end is worn out and he's thinking seriously about stopping and turning he's enlisted me, I guess when you need expertise you have to turn to a Ford man... hahaha. It's alright though, most of my mates have Torana's. I might even buy an LC, if only I had enough time to fit a 302 Windsor as well as a 9 inch.
All terrible jokes aside...
I'd like to clarify one point, by using HX stub axles are we going to pick up much track width?
The car currently runs 245/50 15" Convo Pros, custom drilled in Torana pattern just to make things interesting. With 2" primary exhaust pipes running under the front crossmember, it doesn't want to be lowered, but the standard Torana brakes are just that... bin filler. I have to make a decision pretty shortly on what sort of brake upgrade to order, and what stub axles to use.
Tyre life isn't much of a consideration, nor is steering effort, this thing is a track day terror that only sees the road when there's white ribbons to hide behind. I've had input from an IPRA racer who runs about 2.5neg camber and 6 degrees caster or more... it's all he can do to get the thing to turn in at Philip Island. Working on that theme I'm aiming to lower the UCA pivots, but I was unsure if anyone has measured what benefit there might be in canting the arm to give it some "anti dive" characteristic.
Other mates have achieved a good deal of caster/neg camber on LJ's by using the whiteline offset bushes #w52491 and extended radius rods. Of course this option isn't available to an LX front end, however if the bushes fit, I wondered if they would equally give us the ability to move the bottom arm? Ideally I'd like to get rid of a lot of alignment shims as there isn't much room in the engine bay, but we don't want to end up with the rice burner look of camber for the sake of it...
I might just have to do some measuring...
Cheers blokes
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