dont spray the interior! looks like a perfectly good stock interior if i was you id just clean it all up nice and concentrate on getting the outside looking smick and doing mechanical mods i sprayed the interior on my 4 door which was exactly the same color as yours because i didnt like the color and it was in very poor condition and i always regretted it.
looks like a good start to a project tho!
1 votes
EFI 304 LC 4 DOOR
Started by
_tyre fryer_
, Aug 29 2008 02:27 PM
260 replies to this topic
#51
red6
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Posted 17 September 2008 - 08:46 PM
#52
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Posted 17 September 2008 - 09:20 PM
He's got a box full of disc conversion bits in the boot, Ken 
I agree with the guys above, Matt... I love cars like ours with stockish looking outsides and interiors, but with a nice drivetrain. Not necessarily sleepers, but just nicely worked originals.
Tim
I agree with the guys above, Matt... I love cars like ours with stockish looking outsides and interiors, but with a nice drivetrain. Not necessarily sleepers, but just nicely worked originals.
Tim
#53
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Posted 17 September 2008 - 09:35 PM
looks like you got it all sorted Mat!
how long till its ready for cruising
let me know if u need a hand with anything
ben
how long till its ready for cruising
let me know if u need a hand with anything
ben
#54
_tyre fryer_
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Posted 17 September 2008 - 10:08 PM
sad;y, probably a while off being ready for cruising duties :(
But yeah, i got your number and will let you know.
But yeah, i got your number and will let you know.
#55
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Posted 18 September 2008 - 09:37 AM
If you want to get rid of the seatbelts I will buy em.
I have the retractables in my LJ (front) they are fine, you can get enough leg room (im 178cm tall, but no giant obviously) and I have it as far back when on long trips (stretch my legs out) but driving around and when you need control, i usually have it closer so my knees can be bent and have good pedal pressures and arm movement.
But yeah, shoot me a PM if you want to lose the seatbelts.
I have the retractables in my LJ (front) they are fine, you can get enough leg room (im 178cm tall, but no giant obviously) and I have it as far back when on long trips (stretch my legs out) but driving around and when you need control, i usually have it closer so my knees can be bent and have good pedal pressures and arm movement.
But yeah, shoot me a PM if you want to lose the seatbelts.
#56
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Posted 18 September 2008 - 05:08 PM
Looking good mate. Same path I took. Bought a nice 4 Door LC and pulled it all apart. haha. Grill looks nice. Wanna sell it?
#57
_tyre fryer_
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Posted 18 September 2008 - 10:19 PM
for a decent price... hehehe
#58
_tyre fryer_
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Posted 25 September 2008 - 12:07 AM
Here's a little update and picture for you all....
what do you all think?
I know it's blocking off the idiot lights and fuel gauge but i was thinking i'll grab a fuel gauge out of a rooted GTR dash and buy a set of gauges for oil, volt, temp and put all 4 under the dash.
holidays next week so hopefully i'll get some work done.
oh and no-one has said what i should do about wheels yet.
what do you all think?
I know it's blocking off the idiot lights and fuel gauge but i was thinking i'll grab a fuel gauge out of a rooted GTR dash and buy a set of gauges for oil, volt, temp and put all 4 under the dash.
holidays next week so hopefully i'll get some work done.
oh and no-one has said what i should do about wheels yet.
#59
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Posted 25 September 2008 - 12:11 AM
That's the only gauge you need. 
I'd piss the speedo off too
I'd piss the speedo off too
#60
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Posted 25 September 2008 - 11:06 AM
Id tell you what I really though... but in the end, you like it and thats all that matters.
You could get a smaller tacho (3 or 4 inch would do, and mount it down next to the underdash panel with your other gauges
You could get a smaller tacho (3 or 4 inch would do, and mount it down next to the underdash panel with your other gauges
#61
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Posted 25 September 2008 - 04:55 PM
looks good dude!
just be careful as cop's may not like it as it doesn't allow you to see the other lights etc i had one in front of my clock and i was asked about it when going through a breatho and convinced them there was a clock behind it..
just be careful as cop's may not like it as it doesn't allow you to see the other lights etc i had one in front of my clock and i was asked about it when going through a breatho and convinced them there was a clock behind it..
#62
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Posted 22 October 2008 - 10:08 PM
Okay, sonot much at all has happened since last thread.
I picked up a set of real low springs off Tim and have used a silver paint texta on the silver trim dash.
But plans have been ticking over in my head and I'm getting real excited. And I have a few questions.
pull apart front end, sandblast and powdercoat.
Drill hole for balljoint mount 20mm lower (have seen this in other threads named 'xu1 mod' but dad and I are baffled at what it actually does for the suspension. any ideas?).
Fit all new components (tie rod ends and balljoints etc.)
new bushes, I'm just gonna go stock Kelpro rubber type. will this be good for handling?
New shocks all around. Looking for something decent here, what should I go for?
fit lowered springs.
fit swaybay, only going front here.
rebuild celica 5 speed an find correct clutch to mount to red motor (I believe this is a hilux clutch?)
machine flywheel
compression test motor and bump up to 10.5:1 if needed.
degrease/clean/respray motor
change cam over and new lifters
place engine and gearbox in car
change diff from 2.78 to 3.55
rust convert and paint extractors, fit them and 2.5in exhaust ( i know its big but I'm getting it cheap)
add gauges that are required and somehow? get speedo reading right... anyone got any clue here?
cut and polish and wax
then hopefully drive...
I picked up a set of real low springs off Tim and have used a silver paint texta on the silver trim dash.
But plans have been ticking over in my head and I'm getting real excited. And I have a few questions.
pull apart front end, sandblast and powdercoat.
Drill hole for balljoint mount 20mm lower (have seen this in other threads named 'xu1 mod' but dad and I are baffled at what it actually does for the suspension. any ideas?).
Fit all new components (tie rod ends and balljoints etc.)
new bushes, I'm just gonna go stock Kelpro rubber type. will this be good for handling?
New shocks all around. Looking for something decent here, what should I go for?
fit lowered springs.
fit swaybay, only going front here.
rebuild celica 5 speed an find correct clutch to mount to red motor (I believe this is a hilux clutch?)
machine flywheel
compression test motor and bump up to 10.5:1 if needed.
degrease/clean/respray motor
change cam over and new lifters
place engine and gearbox in car
change diff from 2.78 to 3.55
rust convert and paint extractors, fit them and 2.5in exhaust ( i know its big but I'm getting it cheap)
add gauges that are required and somehow? get speedo reading right... anyone got any clue here?
cut and polish and wax
then hopefully drive...
#63
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Posted 23 October 2008 - 08:23 AM
- the suspension mod allows you to run more negative camber without using as many adjusting shims.
-u can get a complete clutch kit through pbr which i found cost nearly the same as a new clutch plate, pretty sure its just standard torana clutch but with the toyota spline in the middle.
- i have a steel case celica 5 sp and 3.55 diff gears using a normal speedo cable with the appropriate ends on it. the speedo is pretty much right i think ive read 3.36 makes the speedo spot on, mine reads about 48km/h if your doing 50km/h, so that should be close enough.
change your avatar!
-u can get a complete clutch kit through pbr which i found cost nearly the same as a new clutch plate, pretty sure its just standard torana clutch but with the toyota spline in the middle.
- i have a steel case celica 5 sp and 3.55 diff gears using a normal speedo cable with the appropriate ends on it. the speedo is pretty much right i think ive read 3.36 makes the speedo spot on, mine reads about 48km/h if your doing 50km/h, so that should be close enough.
change your avatar!
#64
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Posted 23 October 2008 - 09:37 AM
wow, that really is some handy information!
I actually am looking for a set of 3.36s.
I want to go a bit lower than 3.55 but don't want 2.78.
that's a lot of relief about the speedo though because I have heard it is real hard to get right.
oh and I'll leave the avatar for now, RIP uc.
I actually am looking for a set of 3.36s.
I want to go a bit lower than 3.55 but don't want 2.78.
that's a lot of relief about the speedo though because I have heard it is real hard to get right.
oh and I'll leave the avatar for now, RIP uc.
#65
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Posted 23 October 2008 - 11:38 AM
Ive found 3.08 to be a happy medium for the diff ratio, and are abundant enough not to matter.
As for the rebuild on the front suspension, go Nolathane or Noltec bushes, rubber ones just dont compare.
As for the rebuild on the front suspension, go Nolathane or Noltec bushes, rubber ones just dont compare.
#66
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Posted 23 October 2008 - 11:50 AM
go Nolathane man was such and improvement in my car! as for the diff if you can find a 3.36 to get your speedo right that would be sick if not 3.08 is almost perfect for the street/highway well i recon anyway..
#67
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Posted 23 October 2008 - 04:36 PM
Dad reckons no way.Ive found 3.08 to be a happy medium for the diff ratio, and are abundant enough not to matter.
As for the rebuild on the front suspension, go Nolathane or Noltec bushes, rubber ones just dont compare.
He says they are of no real advantage but they wear the shit out of all the components real quick.
He's not the only person I've heard that from..
#68
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Posted 23 October 2008 - 07:29 PM
i use rubber for the moving parts and nolathane for the bushes that mount the body to the subframe. its a compromise between handling and comfort.
#69
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Posted 24 October 2008 - 07:54 AM
Are you using this as a daily?
#70
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Posted 24 October 2008 - 08:57 AM
The XU-1 mod is done by drilling an extra pair of holes each side on the crossmember where the top control arm mounts to the crossemember. This effectively lowers the rolling centre and also allows for more negative camber to be put on the front wheels. With the bushes if you are going to be driving this on the road alot i would go with rubber as much as possible.
With the Celica 5 speed i believe someone actually does a complete clutch kit to suit a Holden 6 to Celica 5 speed. Also I would suggest going with the 3.36 with the Celica. With 205/60R13 tyres and the Celica box your speedo will be pretty close to accurate. If you stick a 3.08 in you will need a speedo conversion box to correct the speedo. If this matters to you of course.
Steve
With the Celica 5 speed i believe someone actually does a complete clutch kit to suit a Holden 6 to Celica 5 speed. Also I would suggest going with the 3.36 with the Celica. With 205/60R13 tyres and the Celica box your speedo will be pretty close to accurate. If you stick a 3.08 in you will need a speedo conversion box to correct the speedo. If this matters to you of course.
Steve
Edited by 73LJWhiteSL, 24 October 2008 - 09:01 AM.
#71
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Posted 24 October 2008 - 09:23 AM
Im running a celica box, with a 3.08 diff.
Speedo is about 10 or 15 out maximum, but it doesnt really bother me that much, you just adjust your driving or drive with the traffic anyway.
Id do as others haver suggested, rubber for some, nolathane/noltec (nolathane is a brand, polyurethane? i think is the substance)
I run all nolathane or noltec, and dont find the ride too harsh at all.
Speedo is about 10 or 15 out maximum, but it doesnt really bother me that much, you just adjust your driving or drive with the traffic anyway.
Id do as others haver suggested, rubber for some, nolathane/noltec (nolathane is a brand, polyurethane? i think is the substance)
I run all nolathane or noltec, and dont find the ride too harsh at all.
#72
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Posted 24 October 2008 - 09:40 AM
Red6- that sounds like a good idea, but I don't care about comfort. I don't care if it;s too hard or whatever, I just want some good handling.
Chris- Yeah this will be my daily. And like I said I don't really care about harshness and I do really want the speedo to be accurate.
Steve- thanks for the much needed info, that makes sense now, I actually really want to run 3.36 gears but all I have is 3.55 and 2.78. perhaps someone here has a set? although I'm guessing banjo centres arent hard to come by.
and could someone tell me the actual advantage of running polyurethane type bushes and so forth.
Chris- Yeah this will be my daily. And like I said I don't really care about harshness and I do really want the speedo to be accurate.
Steve- thanks for the much needed info, that makes sense now, I actually really want to run 3.36 gears but all I have is 3.55 and 2.78. perhaps someone here has a set? although I'm guessing banjo centres arent hard to come by.
and could someone tell me the actual advantage of running polyurethane type bushes and so forth.
Edited by tyre fryer, 24 October 2008 - 09:43 AM.
#73
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Posted 24 October 2008 - 10:08 AM
I think you will find you are unable to get some of the suspension bushes in rubber anyways, so you will have to use the harder bushes. That was my experience when i rebuilt the front end in the SL last September.
The harder bushes will give a more direct feel, but i personaly feel that put more stress on the other parts of the suspenion. I would rather use the rubber bushes and have to replace the bushes every 5 - 10 years or however long they last, than have to replace suspension componets which may be a lot harder to locate replacements for.
Steve
The harder bushes will give a more direct feel, but i personaly feel that put more stress on the other parts of the suspenion. I would rather use the rubber bushes and have to replace the bushes every 5 - 10 years or however long they last, than have to replace suspension componets which may be a lot harder to locate replacements for.
Steve
Edited by 73LJWhiteSL, 24 October 2008 - 10:10 AM.
#74
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Posted 24 October 2008 - 10:55 AM
polyurethane bushes simply dont give as much.
Rubber is more maleable (sp) and therefore is easier to contort under load.
Nolathane type bushes stiffen up the suspension reducing any unwanted movement due to the strength of the materials.
The only thing I did not replace with polyurethane was the steering coupling, use rubber there.
I had a low, heavy strutted VR commodore that rode hard as a rock (not bumpstops hard though, had a good suspension kit) It rode firm and was my daily, I didnt care, only person that complained was my mum if I drove her somewhere in it.
My torana rides softer then it did.
My LJ has seen some pretty shocking roads, and pushed hard over some of them without any dramas.
It all comes down to preference I suppose. I think the "wearing out parts" thing is irrelevant. Its a 1970s model car, it will need things replaced every couple years regardless of suspension components. And IMO the nolathane bushes will have little to no impact on it all.
Rubber is more maleable (sp) and therefore is easier to contort under load.
Nolathane type bushes stiffen up the suspension reducing any unwanted movement due to the strength of the materials.
The only thing I did not replace with polyurethane was the steering coupling, use rubber there.
I had a low, heavy strutted VR commodore that rode hard as a rock (not bumpstops hard though, had a good suspension kit) It rode firm and was my daily, I didnt care, only person that complained was my mum if I drove her somewhere in it.
My torana rides softer then it did.
My LJ has seen some pretty shocking roads, and pushed hard over some of them without any dramas.
It all comes down to preference I suppose. I think the "wearing out parts" thing is irrelevant. Its a 1970s model car, it will need things replaced every couple years regardless of suspension components. And IMO the nolathane bushes will have little to no impact on it all.
#75
Posted 24 October 2008 - 11:38 AM
Newer (and particularly more expensive) urethane bushes come in varying grades of compliance, they are now available softer than the original Nolathane for example
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