Awome!!!
Looks like a vn wiring loom,what driveline you plan on using mate?
1 votes
EFI 304 LC 4 DOOR
Started by
_tyre fryer_
, Aug 29 2008 02:27 PM
260 replies to this topic
#176
gtrboyy
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Posted 02 August 2010 - 01:17 PM
#177
_tyre fryer_
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Posted 02 August 2010 - 02:13 PM
the wiring came out of a VP SS. Hopefully getting a c/o loom from castlemaine off another forum member, should make life alot easier.
going for a t700, and BW lsd.
Gtrboyy, I think I found a solution to our hq/commodore brake conversion. Was talking to a friend and apprently BMW wheels are commo pattern with an offset similar to HQ. could work perfectly, I'll be borrowing a set from him to see if it works.
Any other members with a similar conversion, I'll be looking for a bit of help so keep your eyes on this thread.
going for a t700, and BW lsd.
Gtrboyy, I think I found a solution to our hq/commodore brake conversion. Was talking to a friend and apprently BMW wheels are commo pattern with an offset similar to HQ. could work perfectly, I'll be borrowing a set from him to see if it works.
Any other members with a similar conversion, I'll be looking for a bit of help so keep your eyes on this thread.
#178
orangeLJ
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Posted 02 August 2010 - 03:07 PM
yeah BMW are commodore stud, offsets vary a fair bit though.
#179
_dickiep_
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Posted 02 August 2010 - 03:31 PM
bam
BMW
Model Year PCD Offset
3 E36/M3 91 to 99 5x120 35 to 45
3 E46/Z3 1.8 98> 5x120 35 to 45
3 Series E30 86 to 91 4x100 15 to 20
5 Series E34 87 to 95 5x120 15 to 25
5 Series E39 95 to 03 5x120 15 to 25
5 Series E60 03> 5x120 15 to 25
7 Series E32 87 to 94 5x120 15 to 25
7 Series E38 94 to 02 5x120 15 to 25
7 Series E65 02> 5x120 15 to 25
8 Series E31 90 to 99 5x120 15 to 25
M3 E30 89 to 92 5x120 15 to 25
M5 Series E39 95 to 03 5x120 15 to 25
X5 00> 5x120 40 to 50
Z4 03> 5x120 35 to 45
BMW
Model Year PCD Offset
3 E36/M3 91 to 99 5x120 35 to 45
3 E46/Z3 1.8 98> 5x120 35 to 45
3 Series E30 86 to 91 4x100 15 to 20
5 Series E34 87 to 95 5x120 15 to 25
5 Series E39 95 to 03 5x120 15 to 25
5 Series E60 03> 5x120 15 to 25
7 Series E32 87 to 94 5x120 15 to 25
7 Series E38 94 to 02 5x120 15 to 25
7 Series E65 02> 5x120 15 to 25
8 Series E31 90 to 99 5x120 15 to 25
M3 E30 89 to 92 5x120 15 to 25
M5 Series E39 95 to 03 5x120 15 to 25
X5 00> 5x120 40 to 50
Z4 03> 5x120 35 to 45
Edited by dickiep, 02 August 2010 - 03:32 PM.
#180
gtrboyy
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Posted 03 August 2010 - 02:16 PM
Sweet!!!
See if you can also get a greenfoam tune,really worth the $80,diff gears & one of his tunes are best bang for bucks for smallest outlay that I've seen so far.
See if you can also get a greenfoam tune,really worth the $80,diff gears & one of his tunes are best bang for bucks for smallest outlay that I've seen so far.
#181
_tyre fryer_
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Posted 03 August 2010 - 04:19 PM
diff gears? I'll be running 3.08s.
and it'll be a completely stock motor, so will it still be worth the tune? I have heard alot of good stuff about him.
and it'll be a completely stock motor, so will it still be worth the tune? I have heard alot of good stuff about him.
#182
_tyre fryer_
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Posted 28 August 2010 - 04:00 PM
Sooo. Waiting for the lc rego to run out so I can begin the overhaul I have been playing around just a little bit.
Detailed the motor;
Thought it came up nicely.
THEN I recveived some goodies from other forum members (thanks again LCV871 and LAKESIDE)
VT Covers; Just waiting for a tin of factory colour to match the car.
and this lovely piece of equipment;
and of course the plug and play wiring loom, should make things alot easier, not a huge fan of the ridged tubing stuff that covers it, does anyone know of anything to make it look a bit nicer?
and Just for fun, the surfwagon that my dad got me as a daily while we build up the LC (the torana is and will be my daily).
I'm just about ready to start, going to lift the body over the K-frame and roll the whole lot out.
Just have a few questions,
1. I'm intending to buy the CAE extractors (getting them for $600) as I have heard TERRIBLE things about the standard HSV ones, do the castle ones have a hole for the O2 sensor? if not I'll tap and drill a spot for one. I've heard mixed reviews on the CAE ones aswell, anyone got something to add?
2. I've received a set of 'Blue top' injectors, are they worth changing to, I mean, I have them so it's at no cost to me.
3. I also got a 'mild' camtech cam, the specs are here http://www.camtechca...sb_304_hyd.html (grind 527)
very mild, would it be worth the mucking around to change(has matching chip to suit).
4. I have the main fuel pump and surge tank, what should I use for the lift pump? does anyone have suggestions as to brand/model? I think bomber was posting something about the same thing but I'll be damned if I could find it!
I will soon have my mild 202 up for sale (brand new crow XU1 cam, new gaskets etc, rebuilt 34ADM weber and worked head)I'll be happy to seperate and yes have pics of the head by itself. So PM me if you're interested.
have a good weekend everyone!
Detailed the motor;
Thought it came up nicely.
THEN I recveived some goodies from other forum members (thanks again LCV871 and LAKESIDE)
VT Covers; Just waiting for a tin of factory colour to match the car.
and this lovely piece of equipment;
and of course the plug and play wiring loom, should make things alot easier, not a huge fan of the ridged tubing stuff that covers it, does anyone know of anything to make it look a bit nicer?
and Just for fun, the surfwagon that my dad got me as a daily while we build up the LC (the torana is and will be my daily).
I'm just about ready to start, going to lift the body over the K-frame and roll the whole lot out.
Just have a few questions,
1. I'm intending to buy the CAE extractors (getting them for $600) as I have heard TERRIBLE things about the standard HSV ones, do the castle ones have a hole for the O2 sensor? if not I'll tap and drill a spot for one. I've heard mixed reviews on the CAE ones aswell, anyone got something to add?
2. I've received a set of 'Blue top' injectors, are they worth changing to, I mean, I have them so it's at no cost to me.
3. I also got a 'mild' camtech cam, the specs are here http://www.camtechca...sb_304_hyd.html (grind 527)
very mild, would it be worth the mucking around to change(has matching chip to suit).
4. I have the main fuel pump and surge tank, what should I use for the lift pump? does anyone have suggestions as to brand/model? I think bomber was posting something about the same thing but I'll be damned if I could find it!
I will soon have my mild 202 up for sale (brand new crow XU1 cam, new gaskets etc, rebuilt 34ADM weber and worked head)I'll be happy to seperate and yes have pics of the head by itself. So PM me if you're interested.
have a good weekend everyone!
Edited by tyre fryer, 28 August 2010 - 04:03 PM.
#183
_dickiep_
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Posted 28 August 2010 - 05:10 PM
i cant help with any of those questions but just want to say the motor came up really good with a detail. need to catch up when im back in adelaide. im going to be knuckling down on the torana work when im back hopefully.
#184
Neils LX
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Posted 28 August 2010 - 07:42 PM
Hi
Nice VT covers. If you dont want to paint them they look great like the ones i got
Just an idea if you want
Chears Neil
Nice VT covers. If you dont want to paint them they look great like the ones i got
Just an idea if you want
Chears Neil
#185
_tyre fryer_
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Posted 30 August 2010 - 03:18 PM
Thanks mate, I ended up painting them black, came up quite nice actually.
Paul, when will you be back? hopefully mine will be well on its way to done and I'll motivate you!
Paul, when will you be back? hopefully mine will be well on its way to done and I'll motivate you!
Edited by tyre fryer, 30 August 2010 - 03:18 PM.
#186
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Posted 30 August 2010 - 10:26 PM
Thanks mate, I ended up painting them black, came up quite nice actually.
Paul, when will you be back? hopefully mine will be well on its way to done and I'll motivate you!
im back on saturday for a week then back for good around start of november. you'll be cruising this rig by the time im back! haha
#187
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Posted 29 September 2010 - 10:09 PM
Little things are happening around the place....
Pulled the motor out, stripped the wiring and polished the engine bay;
The 202 is hanging out in the shed until Tim Rim-101 comes to pick it up.
Wacked the custom sump on and a slightly nicer cam... put the motor back together and it's ready to go in.
and I put on VK discs with HQ calipers (easiest conversion ever) and now the commodore stockies fit PERFECTLY, very impressed with full clearance lock to lock.
Pulled the motor out, stripped the wiring and polished the engine bay;
The 202 is hanging out in the shed until Tim Rim-101 comes to pick it up.
Wacked the custom sump on and a slightly nicer cam... put the motor back together and it's ready to go in.
and I put on VK discs with HQ calipers (easiest conversion ever) and now the commodore stockies fit PERFECTLY, very impressed with full clearance lock to lock.
#188
mr5000
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Posted 03 October 2010 - 09:15 AM
only just read this and relised your going an injected 8 cool stuff i love v8s in the early torrys woulda been awesome had the xu2 gone into production
#189
gtrboyy
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Posted 03 October 2010 - 12:59 PM
Mine must be a bitch,I wasn't so lucky for wheel clearance lock to lock as wheels hit radius rod.
What did you hear was so bad about the hsv headers? On my car & most mild efi 5l they work fine,I didn't really think much of the aftermarket extractors available design wise etc.
Nice trick is to turn the injectors around,hides the wiring inside the fuel rail.
If you can find some single row pulleys,use a short nose waterpump,looks neater & gives more clearance.
Yes,for what greenfoam charges it's very worth it.Used him a few times & noticable difference...going to get him to do 2 more soon.
What did you hear was so bad about the hsv headers? On my car & most mild efi 5l they work fine,I didn't really think much of the aftermarket extractors available design wise etc.
Nice trick is to turn the injectors around,hides the wiring inside the fuel rail.
If you can find some single row pulleys,use a short nose waterpump,looks neater & gives more clearance.
Yes,for what greenfoam charges it's very worth it.Used him a few times & noticable difference...going to get him to do 2 more soon.
#190
_tyre fryer_
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Posted 03 October 2010 - 08:15 PM
mr5000, I probably should've started a new thread for the conversion but maybe I'll change the title so its not so quiet anymore!
Gtrboyy, I just couldn't understand how yours didn't fit, mine were perfect for clearance both ways...
here's the picture I meant to post of them...
All my mates (commodore boys) seem to think those steel headers are way restrictive and sound crappy but I guess that's just them, how much did you pay for a Y-piece to link them up?
So anyway... we dummy fitted the block and you can see where it hits the steering column.
Took some photos for those that have always wondered; as you can see it, it just struck the knuckle, we are going to move the column over and just replace this knucle with a single LH/LX one as confirmed by another member on here...
Does anyone else see issues with this?
All other clearnaces seemed to be fine. even the distributor sat neatly in place. When we move the column we'll try it again without the inlet manifold.
Gtrboyy, I just couldn't understand how yours didn't fit, mine were perfect for clearance both ways...
here's the picture I meant to post of them...
All my mates (commodore boys) seem to think those steel headers are way restrictive and sound crappy but I guess that's just them, how much did you pay for a Y-piece to link them up?
So anyway... we dummy fitted the block and you can see where it hits the steering column.
Took some photos for those that have always wondered; as you can see it, it just struck the knuckle, we are going to move the column over and just replace this knucle with a single LH/LX one as confirmed by another member on here...
Does anyone else see issues with this?
All other clearnaces seemed to be fine. even the distributor sat neatly in place. When we move the column we'll try it again without the inlet manifold.
#191
_dickiep_
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Posted 03 October 2010 - 08:25 PM
nice one. howd you do the commodore stud patteren change? im going to have to do this. im getting keen to do this conversion now, just need to get back to adelaide
#192
_tyre fryer_
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Posted 04 October 2010 - 03:01 PM
Hey Paul, when you get back I'll be happy to help with this, cheap and easy as.
VK commodore discs machined down 5mm, HQ/HZ calipers and it all goes on the torana stub.
Just have to grind a little off the caliper where it mounts to the stub and all is sweet.
Oh, and change your hose ends.
VK commodore discs machined down 5mm, HQ/HZ calipers and it all goes on the torana stub.
Just have to grind a little off the caliper where it mounts to the stub and all is sweet.
Oh, and change your hose ends.
#193
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Posted 04 October 2010 - 03:21 PM
Hey Paul, when you get back I'll be happy to help with this, cheap and easy as.
VK commodore discs machined down 5mm, HQ/HZ calipers and it all goes on the torana stub.
Just have to grind a little off the caliper where it mounts to the stub and all is sweet.
Oh, and change your hose ends.
sweet im going to start collecting parts now i think then when i get back it'll all be waiting. anyone help me with parts? or its off to ebay!
#194
_tyre fryer_
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Posted 04 October 2010 - 05:16 PM
All you need is the calipers 2nd hand, grab the discs from the brake store new.
#195
_dickiep_
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Posted 04 October 2010 - 06:36 PM
awesome im on the hunt for some hq calipers. are all the hq/x/z etc calipers the same?
#196
_tyre fryer_
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Posted 04 October 2010 - 08:10 PM
Pretty much except HZ are alloy and are meant to flex... Mine are HZ though.
#197
orangeLJ
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Posted 05 October 2010 - 09:34 AM
Hows all the geometry with the HQ stubs?
Isnt there meant to be an issue with angles etc when fitting HQ stubs?
Isnt there meant to be an issue with angles etc when fitting HQ stubs?
#198
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Posted 05 October 2010 - 01:01 PM
I didn't use HQ stubs Chris, as Holden wheel bearing diameters are all the same, the discs slid straight on.
Good way to ensure the original steering geometry.
When we do Paul's I'll take more pics and post it up in the wheels/brakes section. then maybe it can be made a sticky.
Good way to ensure the original steering geometry.
When we do Paul's I'll take more pics and post it up in the wheels/brakes section. then maybe it can be made a sticky.
#199
gtrboyy
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Posted 05 October 2010 - 02:33 PM
Yeah,I dunno what's up with mine although I only checked lock to lock clearance with vy ss 17's & the stocko 14" vk rims I wanted to use not the chasers though..thenthrew on a hq rim grrr.Ride height with the torrie stubs looked perfect.
The Y pipe on mine was done cheap through a mate when he had his workshop,the steel headers are better than std cast ones(flow better,cheap as,also easy to mod the bottoms to suit a lc/j) & unless you're going to up the comp & fit a decent cam then extractors will only be there to add sound..on the justcommodores site greenfoam g-tech'd all the budget mods & put up all the results for everyone to see.It was interesting.
ps...when you bolt on the commy headers,you'll see outlet is right above the the steering joint/column.
My engine was the same,I ground down the chunk for more clearance.Auto box will need a fair bit taken off
First time I did mod a steering rack I used one knuckle,moved the rack over...was much better to drive over a 2 knuckle job,only changed it because mine was manual & it looked like it might cause a problem if I brke an engine mount.
There are also some places now that have the booster bracket mod sussed out to move it over for clearance,much nicer than cutting the rocker cover & cheaper than remote boosters.
The Y pipe on mine was done cheap through a mate when he had his workshop,the steel headers are better than std cast ones(flow better,cheap as,also easy to mod the bottoms to suit a lc/j) & unless you're going to up the comp & fit a decent cam then extractors will only be there to add sound..on the justcommodores site greenfoam g-tech'd all the budget mods & put up all the results for everyone to see.It was interesting.
ps...when you bolt on the commy headers,you'll see outlet is right above the the steering joint/column.
My engine was the same,I ground down the chunk for more clearance.Auto box will need a fair bit taken off
First time I did mod a steering rack I used one knuckle,moved the rack over...was much better to drive over a 2 knuckle job,only changed it because mine was manual & it looked like it might cause a problem if I brke an engine mount.
There are also some places now that have the booster bracket mod sussed out to move it over for clearance,much nicer than cutting the rocker cover & cheaper than remote boosters.
Edited by gtrboyy, 05 October 2010 - 02:36 PM.
#200
orangeLJ
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Posted 05 October 2010 - 02:58 PM
I didn't use HQ stubs Chris, as Holden wheel bearing diameters are all the same, the discs slid straight on.
Good way to ensure the original steering geometry.
When we do Paul's I'll take more pics and post it up in the wheels/brakes section. then maybe it can be made a sticky.
Ahhhhh! hairy fluff!
do the calipers just bolt up too?
Sounds like a good conversion, does it have much of an impact on the track width?
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