Hi everyone,
Being fairly new here I note that there is a general consensus as to the ultimate front end for LH/LX/UC's with a few different variations on brakes depending on how large your wallet is and am in the process of building mine to that theme as we speak.
Im slowly building up my LX sedan that will one day see track work under state sports sedan rules and my question is what would be the ultimate rear end set up for the track? I have been reading the adjustable rear arms post started by rory and by the end my head was ready to explode... Im thinking to start with a 9" with floating hubs but as far as suspension design goes, where to from there remembering that with sports sedans anything is allowable in regards to suspension set up.
Obviously everyone will have an opinion and looking forward to all your ideas / thoughts.
Ultimate rear end
Started by
_Racelx_
, Nov 13 2008 07:13 AM
30 replies to this topic
#3
MRLXSS
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Posted 13 November 2008 - 11:24 AM
I was thinking the same thing milco! LOL
#4
TerrA LX
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Posted 13 November 2008 - 12:27 PM
^^ I think it sits a lil high. JMHO 
#5
enderwigginau
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Posted 13 November 2008 - 12:41 PM
Equal-arm four link + watts linkage.
Coilovers (twinned?)
That's if you don't want IRS, otherwise.........
Grant..
Coilovers (twinned?)
That's if you don't want IRS, otherwise.........
Grant..
#6
View GaragePosted 13 November 2008 - 12:45 PM
If anything is allowed then the sky's the limit. The front end threads were more of a parts bin/budget oriented version of 'ultimate'
#7
TerrA LX
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Posted 13 November 2008 - 12:56 PM
^ yeah, if it's a case of parts bin then straight up would be A9X or UC and work from there.
Still have not found an advantage of having the upper arms further apart aside from fitting a larger diff easier.
Still have not found an advantage of having the upper arms further apart aside from fitting a larger diff easier.
#8
_CHOPPER_
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Posted 13 November 2008 - 01:30 PM
Im thinking to start with a 9" with floating hubs but as far as suspension design goes, where to from there remembering that with sports sedans anything is allowable in regards to suspension set up.
If you want a solid rear end and have the funds, parallel 4 link with watts linkage would be ideal.
If you want I.R.S. than I need your bank balance.
#9
rodomo
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Posted 13 November 2008 - 02:11 PM
Cut floor pan out from "B" pillar back.
Weld in Commodore floor pan.
Problem solved!
Weld in Commodore floor pan.
Problem solved!
#10
_Racelx_
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Posted 13 November 2008 - 03:25 PM
Guys, thanks for the posts and like the ideas.
Given my budget isnt anything like hrt's im liking the 4 link option the best and have been sussing out Mc Donald bros website for prices.
Given my budget isnt anything like hrt's im liking the 4 link option the best and have been sussing out Mc Donald bros website for prices.
#12
_HatchmanSS76_
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Posted 14 November 2008 - 02:32 PM
Hewland F5000 transaxle.
Game over.
Greg. Is it possible to fit that sort of setup to a Torrie?
#13
_Racelx_
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Posted 14 November 2008 - 02:37 PM
Hi Greg
I have had a look see at Hewlands web site in the UK and was going to ask the same question. How can this be set up for a torana. Mind you sequential isnt an option for sports sedans so has to be H pattern.
As ideas on watts linkage manufacturers as McDFonald Bros can do the 4 link easily enough...
Thanks
Tim.
I have had a look see at Hewlands web site in the UK and was going to ask the same question. How can this be set up for a torana. Mind you sequential isnt an option for sports sedans so has to be H pattern.
As ideas on watts linkage manufacturers as McDFonald Bros can do the 4 link easily enough...
Thanks
Tim.
#14
_82911_
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Posted 14 November 2008 - 03:44 PM
Hewland can be done. A lot of the front running National sports sedans run this set up and have done for years. VERY VERY EXPENSIVE....
The question was what is best.... that is "best"
What is the best for the Torana, taking into account avaliability, packaging, strength and ease of maintenance etc....
floating 9" assemblt with parallel 4 bar logidunal arms of equal length. Height adjustable watts link with the bellcrank mounted rigidly to the chassis.
Basically a supercar rear end.......
The question was what is best.... that is "best"
What is the best for the Torana, taking into account avaliability, packaging, strength and ease of maintenance etc....
floating 9" assemblt with parallel 4 bar logidunal arms of equal length. Height adjustable watts link with the bellcrank mounted rigidly to the chassis.
Basically a supercar rear end.......
#15
_Racelx_
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Posted 14 November 2008 - 07:04 PM
Greg
I like the idea of the 4 link given account funds arent that of any high rolling team, not by a long shot however want something better than the standard torana set ujp
Can you give any ideas on potential suppliers, im melbourne based and am not wanting to visit harrops based on previous feedback on this site and secondly, cost of the set up?
Appreciate your input here
Thanks
Tim
I like the idea of the 4 link given account funds arent that of any high rolling team, not by a long shot however want something better than the standard torana set ujp
Can you give any ideas on potential suppliers, im melbourne based and am not wanting to visit harrops based on previous feedback on this site and secondly, cost of the set up?
Appreciate your input here
Thanks
Tim
#16
enderwigginau
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Posted 14 November 2008 - 10:32 PM
You can source a complete rear clip from McDonald bros with four link and watts link ready to weld in.
You'll need to give em a call. AFAIK they already have a pattern for the torana.
Grant..
You'll need to give em a call. AFAIK they already have a pattern for the torana.
Grant..
#18
_the gts_
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Posted 15 November 2008 - 04:29 PM
The McDonald bros set up is good but maybe not really suitable for street cars. My engineer suggested it would increase weight too much and all the work involved in engineering the modified trailing arm mounts would be a lot of effort (but not impossible). McDonald Bros use 50x75x3 RHS which requires the whole rear floor/Chassis to be removed and a new section made, big $$$ too unless you do all the work yourself.
I used 50x50x3 RHS for my rear chassis rails and only had to modify the boot floor to suit. the rear mounting positions are still the same location.
so now I have boxed standard torana trailing arms & adjustable coil overs and am thinking of fitting Watts set up, but will depend on engineers thoughts and how to get the exhaust will fit around it all.
I used 50x50x3 RHS for my rear chassis rails and only had to modify the boot floor to suit. the rear mounting positions are still the same location.
so now I have boxed standard torana trailing arms & adjustable coil overs and am thinking of fitting Watts set up, but will depend on engineers thoughts and how to get the exhaust will fit around it all.
#19
_the gts_
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Posted 15 November 2008 - 05:48 PM
what is the web address for this f5000 transaxle?
#20
rodomo
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#21
_82911_
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Posted 15 November 2008 - 06:24 PM
I'd stay away from the McDonald bros rear as well. I think they are more aimed at the drag racers that want to tub their rear ends.
To get the best set up in your situation you are going to need to fabricate the components to suit the application.
Are you going to be competing in any other category besides sports sedans? Take into consideration that sports sedans has some fairly radical design freedoms avaliable to the constructor. So do you want to be a small fish in a big pond or could you step back to 3J Improved production and perhaps be a bigger fish? I sensibly modded torana is a weapon in 3J, but that same car will be a tail ender in 3D.... Food for thought BEFORE the plasma comes out!
Let me know your category preferance, before I start suggesting modifications, as the rear end I would put under a 3D sports sedan would be vastly different to that of a 3J car.
Cheers Greg..
To get the best set up in your situation you are going to need to fabricate the components to suit the application.
Are you going to be competing in any other category besides sports sedans? Take into consideration that sports sedans has some fairly radical design freedoms avaliable to the constructor. So do you want to be a small fish in a big pond or could you step back to 3J Improved production and perhaps be a bigger fish? I sensibly modded torana is a weapon in 3J, but that same car will be a tail ender in 3D.... Food for thought BEFORE the plasma comes out!
Let me know your category preferance, before I start suggesting modifications, as the rear end I would put under a 3D sports sedan would be vastly different to that of a 3J car.
Cheers Greg..
#22
_the gts_
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Posted 16 November 2008 - 11:20 AM
Greg What would you recommend for a street car?
HMMM the hewland site may be the ultimate but there would be a fair amount of work fitting that to a torana and with magnesium housings they are gonna be BIG $$$$$.
HMMM the hewland site may be the ultimate but there would be a fair amount of work fitting that to a torana and with magnesium housings they are gonna be BIG $$$$$.
#24
_Racelx_
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Posted 17 November 2008 - 06:50 PM
I'd stay away from the McDonald bros rear as well. I think they are more aimed at the drag racers that want to tub their rear ends.
To get the best set up in your situation you are going to need to fabricate the components to suit the application.
Are you going to be competing in any other category besides sports sedans? Take into consideration that sports sedans has some fairly radical design freedoms avaliable to the constructor. So do you want to be a small fish in a big pond or could you step back to 3J Improved production and perhaps be a bigger fish? I sensibly modded torana is a weapon in 3J, but that same car will be a tail ender in 3D.... Food for thought BEFORE the plasma comes out!
Let me know your category preferance, before I start suggesting modifications, as the rear end I would put under a 3D sports sedan would be vastly different to that of a 3J car.
Cheers Greg..
G'day Greg
Sorry for the delay in replying to your post above but have done plenty of reading up on 3J Improved Production and have decided that it is probably the cheapest way to go racing and have some sort of a chance at being competitive rather than being a rear runner in 3D. Obviously i wil have to source dash's and door trims etc to make the car legal for this series but thats a minor issue.
Based on this, I would still be very interested in your opinions on a rear end for this category using a 9" rear end with floating hubs. I note that rory is using a BW diff and feel that the 9" with its variety of ratios available and sourceability is the preferrably wa to go.
Any advice you could pass on would be greatly appreciated
Cheers
Tim
#25
_rorym_
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Posted 17 November 2008 - 07:00 PM
B/W ratios are from 2.32 to 4.11....and everything between..
R
R
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