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Oil Catch Can


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#26 TerrA LX

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Posted 18 June 2009 - 11:46 PM

From what i read im best of having a sealed system from both rockers to a tank then plumbed back to the mainfold. That way ill reduce the amount going into the manifold from my current setup and it will keep the greenies happier.


If you run it this way with no PCV valve you will have to re jet your carburetor and possibbly change the power valve to compensate for the extra un metered air flow to the motor.

Edited by ALX76, 18 June 2009 - 11:59 PM.


#27 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 19 June 2009 - 12:41 AM

Thats pretty much why the factory system vents into the air cleaner, when the revs go up and the manifold vacuum goes down the PCV valve closes off, the pressure from the crank case has to go somewhere.


The PCV opens when vacuum drops and closes as vacuum increases. The design of the Torana PCV valve is different to the one explained in the following article however the principals are the same.

Engine Breathing Systems

To avoid upsetting the fuel/air mixture, the PCV valve must regulate the evacuation of these blow-by gases and vapours (which will be minimal at idling speed but will intensify as engine speed is increased). Since manifold vacuum is highest at low engine speeds, the PCV plunger will be drawn forward to a position that will restrict crankcase ventilation to a minimum thus ensuring no unsettlement of the air/fuel mixture. As engine speeds are increased the manifold vacuum will drop thus reducing the �pull� on the plunger which will slide back to a midway position allowing a greater flow rate from the crankcase. Since the engine demands more air/fuel mixture at high engine speeds, the escalation of crankcase vapours into the combustion chambers should not affect performance.



#28 TerrA LX

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Posted 19 June 2009 - 07:51 PM

Thanx for clearing that up Ls2.

#29 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 19 June 2009 - 08:41 PM

ALX76 you are correct in saying that the system will vent through the air cleaner if crankcase pressure builds up due to insufficient venting via PCV. This will happen at higher revs with low manifold pressure in a stock engine.

I guess that explains the size of the breather tubes on A9X's engine.
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#30 Evan

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 09:32 AM

ok , im a tad confused here.
I have a mild 355 used for %50 street use and %50 track use.
What system should i be using? Running VN heads and rocker covers, i was going to run one hose from a rocker cover with a PCV to the carb and the other side to a vented catch can.

The way i look at it, this is no different from the standard system , but instead of venting to the air cleaner, venting to the catch can.

Does that sound ok , or should i be running somthing different?

Evan.

#31 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 01:33 PM

Let me start be saying I do not have any race engine or car building experience.

Every 308 based track engine I have seen has larger breather tubes connected to either the middle or front of both rocker covers and a catch can as per the above photo. I have not seen manifold vacuum and PCV valve incorporated in a race track breather system.

It is obvious that race engine builders do not consider the stock breather tube diameter or location adequate for track use. Unfortunately the race breather system is in many cases not legal and does nothing to reduce oil contamination.

For a car that is used for both street and the track, I think you have three options.

1. Run a race breather system with catch can and larger relocated breather tubes, change the oil more frequently and hope you do not get defected.
2. Run the stock breather system and hope that you do not suffer excessive crankcase pressure, power loss, oil loss and seal damage.
3. Run both systems, block off the race system when on the street and the street system when on the track.

#32 Tiny

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 01:40 PM

Can i also ask,
What contaminants go into the oil from that get breathed out?

I'm considering to make mine legal, Making a tube around the outside of the filter on top of the breather to suck back the oily vapor that comes out of the filter to make the air in the cabin better to breathe!
The catch can still catches the oily watery mess that comes out the breathers though :)

Very interesting thread! Thanks!

#33 TerrA LX

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 03:37 PM

You can run the (for want of a better word) factory system, even with bigger hoses if you want, all you have to do is filter the oily fumes entering the motor, whther it be a catch can or whatever it must be sealed from the air filter right thru to the manifold inlet. ie so the only escape route for fumes etc is into the motor.
Race cars do not run this type of setup because you are ommitting un metered air into the manifold.
The factory has compensdated for this in their selection/design of carburettor.

#34 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 05:14 PM

Here are the ventilation guidelines I use for what they are worth. I've used them on various types of engine over the years without problem.

1, For a stock or near stock engine a standard PCV with a breather connected to the air cleaner via an efficient oil separator will work well. If the engine is fumey it's more likely to be a problem with ring seal than with the vent system.
2, Non standard cams usually won't work well with PCVs; the reduction in manifold vacuum confuses the valve and it is often open when it shouldn't be having the same effect as an intermittent vacuum leak. For these applications simply replacing the PCV with a small fixed restrictor works. Tune to suit the orifice size.
3, Where there is higher than normal blowby (eg. very high output n/a or highly boosted engines) and/or oil drainback issues it is a huge advantage to make use of different independent paths for oil drainback and ventilation. Generally you can't do much about the drainback location in the head(s) but you can fit additional vents in valley covers, timing cases, lifter chests etc.
4, The CSA of both the oil drains and the vent passages should be as large as practicable. This helps drainback immensely. If the engine is very highly boosted you may need more than one vent and separator.
5, The vent passage should lead to an efficient oil vapour separator mounted as high as possible. Oil vapour will coalesce in the separator element and drain back into the engine. Effective separators are made by the major filter manufacturers such as Baldwin and Fleetguard.
6, The vent port of the separator should lead into the air intake/air filter housing. Provided a proper separator is used there will be no oil vapour carryover whatsoever and no effect on engine performance. The remaining gases and moisture that are drawn in are in such a small volume in comparison to the intake charge to have no effect. Venting to atmosphere is OK for drag or short duration use but will stink up the car in the long term.
7, There needs to be some way of getting some amount of fresh air circulation through the engine. Where a pcv isn't practical (eg. most high-po engines) a fixed restrictor will do. Connect it to the intake manifold (upstream of the turbo if fitted) via another effective separator. Aspirator ports in the exhaust are another alternative.
8, Oil catch cans are a kludge and are only used to keep oil off a racetrack. Don't use them unless the rules dictate you do so. The oil belongs in the engine, not in a tin.
9, Consider the effects of G forces when locating vents. Eg. putting a vent on the outer side of the RH rocker cover of a speedway car that only turns left would be dumb.
10, Also consider oil throw-off from any valve train or crank components that are near the vent and use baffling before the separator if necessary.
11, Radiusing the entries of drainback holes can materially improve their capacity.
12, Oil collection containers are a poor substitute for an effective ring seal.

Hopefully you will find something useful in this.

#35 _Squarepants_

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 05:27 PM

5, The vent passage should lead to an efficient oil vapour separator mounted as high as possible. Oil vapour will coalesce in the separator element and drain back into the engine. Effective separators are made by the major filter manufacturers such as Baldwin and Fleetguard.
6, The vent port of the separator should lead into the air intake/air filter housing. Provided a proper separator is used there will be no oil vapour carryover whatsoever and no effect on engine performance. The remaining gases and moisture that are drawn in are in such a small volume in comparison to the intake charge to have no effect.


Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't this what a catch can is supposed to do?
Except maybe for the drain back option, but I'm sure a catch can could be designed to do this too with the right fittings (ie sump fitting and check valve maybe???)

#36 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 05:52 PM

Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't this what a catch can is supposed to do?
Except maybe for the drain back option, but I'm sure a catch can could be designed to do this too with the right fittings (ie sump fitting and check valve maybe???)

You're right, but if you put a drain on a catch can then it becomes more of a primitive separator than a catch can. It'd work for sure, but I doubt it would remove the vapours as well as a filter and would be bulkier.

#37 _Squarepants_

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 06:03 PM

Any more info on these separators Johno?
Pics? Part No's?

#38 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 07:04 PM

Any more info on these separators Johno?
Pics? Part No's?

I'll put up some pics of what I use when I get home. There's nothing fancy about em, basically just a canister full of coarse filter media. Just like the old style red motor breather/filter/filler except that those were too small and too loosely packed to work with a modified engine. Used to be able to get replacement units that had a hose tail on the body (instead of just drooling over the rocker cover) but again they were too small and sloppily packed to work. I usually rob the units off diesel engines; mainly cos I'm a tight-arse but also cos they're big enough and well designed. I've used units from Detroit and Cat engines with 1" or 1-1/4" outlets but there are others just as good. Closed ventilation systems on big diesels have to work well because significant oil carry-over can cause them to "run away" and self destruct through over-revving. I've also made them using 3" exhaust tube and media from old oil-bath aircleaners.
If you want something a bit flasher you could use these Mann units or these Fleetguard filters, though home-made or recycled diesel units would work just as well. The aftermarket automotive ones I've seen have been, um, shit..
Edit: That Mann unit looks to be the ducks guts, wouldn't mind trying one out. Mann stuff is usually expensive tho..

Edited by oldjohnno, 20 June 2009 - 07:13 PM.


#39 _Squarepants_

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 07:20 PM

This is the engine bay of my last daily, a 2000 Impreza:
Posted Image
The catch can is in the front left (as you're looking at it) corner.
The top half is separated in 2 halves with mesh containing stainless steel wool filters. The bottom half is empty to allow for change of direction of gas flow and room for drips from steel wool filters. Ball valve on the bottom for draining. It worked pretty well.
I agree, Johno, most of the ones you can buy are not worth the money.

#40 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 07:37 PM

This is the engine bay of my last daily, a 2000 Impreza:
The catch can is in the front left (as you're looking at it) corner.
The top half is separated in 2 halves with mesh containing stainless steel wool filters. The bottom half is empty to allow for change of direction of gas flow and room for drips from steel wool filters. Ball valve on the bottom for draining. It worked pretty well.
I agree, Johno, most of the ones you can buy are not worth the money.

Nice. If you run the drain line into the sump below the oil level you can do away with the ball valve and it effectively becomes self draining - the oil siphons off continuously without any backflow up the drain.
If I appear a bit anal about all this it's because of a big-block Chev I had in the '80s - the PCV didn't like the big cam and the shitty aftermarket rocker covers would occasionally allow a slug of oil to be sucked into the engine with much ensuing smoke. I eventually figured it out and it transformed the car, so I've applied the same principles to every engine since..

#41 TerrA LX

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 07:57 PM

Just remember with these systems you are not only seperating oil and air, you are also seperating contaminants ie H2O.
Keep that in mind for your drain back setup.

#42 TerrA LX

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 08:00 PM

2, Non standard cams usually won't work well with PCVs; the reduction in manifold vacuum confuses the valve and it is often open when it shouldn't be having the same effect as an intermittent vacuum leak. For these applications simply replacing the PCV with a small fixed restrictor works. Tune to suit the orifice size.


I have never had or build a motor with a big enough cam to warrent this but excellent point.

#43 _Squarepants_

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 08:12 PM

Just remember with these systems you are not only seperating oil and air, you are also seperating contaminants ie H2O.
Keep that in mind for your drain back setup.

Also a good point.
I've heard the "water boils off in oil" theory, but I don't reckon oil should run that hot, does it?
I've never had an oil temp gauge so I don't know.

#44 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 08:23 PM

Also a good point.
I've heard the "water boils off in oil" theory, but I don't reckon oil should run that hot, does it?

It does normally, but it could certainly be an issue with a street car that does lots of short trips. I guess in that case you could have the oil outlet an inch or so above the floor of the canister and have a drain cock on the bottom so you could manually drain the water off.

#45 _NURVUS_

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 09:30 PM

Some good info here.
I've just done the simple breather can setup on my new engine. It breathes pretty heavily because after around 100 kms theres an oil residue under the bonnet and on the top of the front guard.

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#46 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 21 June 2009 - 09:17 AM

Some good info here.
I've just done the simple breather can setup on my new engine. It breathes pretty heavily because after around 100 kms theres an oil residue under the bonnet and on the top of the front guard.

Nice engine installation. The Mann ProVent would be perfect for this, but for a quick and dirty fix you could probably make it a bit less oily simply by stuffing the can with steel scourers, though with this can the inlet is a bit too close to the outlet for it to be very effective. Making the inlet fitting lower and tangential to the can would help in separating the oil.

#47 Stedz_lc

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Posted 21 June 2009 - 11:12 AM

I also run a catch can, I must admit it does blow a fair bit of smoke when it hasn't been driven for awhile or if its done a few short trips but after half hour or so it clears up, thou 11:1 doesnt help this, i get the same thin as nurvus a small oil stain on the bonnet, not drippin or anything. Ive also found after a hard time ie at eastetnats etc i drain my catch can and its a bit creamy/watery (not a head gasket) i think thats just the moisture and hot oil, i also think thats wats burnin off when i havn't driven it for awhile. I have not had a problem with this setup!!! I did have just K&N breathers in the rocker cover's and all that did was make a mess in the engine bay!!
Cheer
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#48 _cruiza_

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Posted 21 June 2009 - 01:53 PM

Thanks for all the info, while I have since sold the car the one time I had it on a track of sorts the rocker covers filled with oil and blew the PCV off I always thought it needed a better setup then standard

#49 TerrA LX

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Posted 21 June 2009 - 05:57 PM

I also run a catch can, I must admit it does blow a fair bit of smoke when it hasn't been driven for awhile or if its done a few short trips but after half hour or so it clears up,
Ed.


Oil mist and/or steam?

Oil must be pretty hot to smoke.

Edited by ALX76, 21 June 2009 - 06:02 PM.


#50 Stedz_lc

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Posted 21 June 2009 - 08:18 PM

blow by!




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