
Bad workmanship.
#26
_ChevLX_77_
Posted 29 November 2008 - 05:11 PM
#27
_3point3_
Posted 29 November 2008 - 06:46 PM
Took the 350 Holley for a check,seemed to be flooding! Guy says float may have a leak. Replaced it ($50.00) He reset the float level.
Next try nearly burnt the whole car as it spewed fuel everywhere!!
So not happy. How do "experts" get it wrong?
#28
_NURVUS_
Posted 29 November 2008 - 10:36 PM
My last project is rusting in a shed due to unsafe fabrication work, so i put it aside and paid top dollar for a complete runner and ended up with more problems. 12 months later its on the road with a hell of a lot left to do. THE JOYS OF CARS!!!!!!!!
I took photos along the way, this is just one.. accelerator mechanism held in the fire wall with one screw only, and a timber spacer.

Edited by NURVUS, 29 November 2008 - 10:41 PM.
#29
Posted 29 November 2008 - 10:58 PM
#30
Posted 30 November 2008 - 09:47 PM
10 Years ago My ex and I had a new house built, I was horrified at the standard of some of the workmanship.
Since then, I'll try most things myself, building sheds, pergolas, concreting etc
I figure an ex mechanic who actually cares about the building project he is working on, will probably do a better job than a builder type who couldn't give a stuff. Obviously there are some things you need to call an expert in for.
#31
Posted 01 December 2008 - 07:24 AM
#32
_HatchmanSS76_
Posted 01 December 2008 - 07:43 AM
So out come the hammer and angle grinder and about 30 minutes later the problem is solved.
Just be careful with that modification Mick as removing the gutter can allow water water to collect in your dizzy when washing the car and do some damage if not noticed.
I speek from personal experience with that as I was running a MSD dizzy in my Hatch and only found all the damage to the dizzy when I replaced the Redline mainifold with the Torque-Power one. I used to wash the car every second weekend and started noticing a gradual drop in performance on the strip every month for about 4 months (not reving out like it used to). I had some other electrical gremlins at the time with continual flattening batteries so had the car rewired (quite a few faults found during the rewire) and the next run down the strip it still wouldn't rev out like it used to.
Off too the mechanics we checked every thing fuel wise and even checked the valve spring pressures as the head work was only 6months old. The only thing we didn't do was pull the dizzy cap off for a look. When the manifold was changed another month later the dizzy was pulled and the cap removed to find that water had been getting inside and had rusted the bearing on the shaft almost to the stage water would have started getting into the block, the cap was basicly stuffed from arcing out all the time and the rotor cap button was cactus as well. My mechanic couldn't belive what he was seeing and was amazed that it was running slightly ok in the state it was was. A few hundred bucks later to replace 1/2 my $1500 MSD dizzy. The only way water could have been getting in there was from me washing it so often and the fact that my firewall gutter lip was cut.
My advice is to check under your cap often to make sure its dry when washing the car or put a condom over the dizzy before washing the car from here on.
#33
_studricho_
Posted 04 December 2008 - 06:51 AM
I've seen my fair share of bad work. Here's some examples.
Yamaha FZR250
I know, not a cbr, but the owners dad thought it was (long story). Young guy (17) uni student, first bike. Bike is running crap and using fuel. I hear him coming about 2 blocks way. Bike is revving it's head off and even at idle it's around 8,000 rpm (they rev to 18,000).
The guy stalls it. Goes to start and I hear it go woop, woooooop, tick. woop, vroom. I said dude it sounds like it's hydraulic locked. He replies that's how it's been since his had it (6months) and the previous owner had at a mechanic and he showed him want to do to start it.
The main problem was the clip to hold the long needle in slide had fallen out so number 3 cylinder was max fuel all the time.
It took me about 15 mins to find and another hour to fix. The clip was sitting in the slide along with the needle.
Nathan (from here) CBR250RR
We had a service day here and Nathans bike was the last bike I looked at as it had major issues. Fuel leaks, oil leaks and coolant leaks. It was running so bad I told him to leave.
I have never seen so many faults/dodgey repairs on a bike. I spent days chasing my tail trying to repair all the bad work.
I better add that Nathan didn't do the repairs, someone else did.
Some of the faults...
-2 high pressure oil leaks. Faulty o-rings.
-3 water leaks. O-rings and swallen hose due to oil.
-Wiring for thermo fan hacked up
-Thermo fan faulty
-Bolt stripped on crankcase holding iginiton cover
-Carby fuel bowl leaking fuel.
-Inlet rubber torn/crack leaking.
-exhaust camshaft installed incorrect wearing out cam guide on cam holder.
-Snapped main jet
-Coil mounting bracket faulty.
After fixing all this, getting the bike to run 100 percent better I call Nathan to pick up bike.
I get a call the next day the bike is over heating. It was running fine with me, but maybe thermostat packed it in.
Eventually bike splits hose and blowns head gasket.
I take the head off to find a cracked cylinder bore into water jacket. Makes sense why it would only over heat on long trips.
I swapped over his engine for a good spare I had for nothing. When I saw the amount of dodgey things on this bike, I thought it was the least I could do to ease the pain.
What gets my goat is that if you do a dodge job on a car then, it stops to the side of the road.
Most times on a bike you don't get that option. Bike dies mid corner or locks up rear wheel at any speed and you may die.
#34
_rorym_
Posted 04 December 2008 - 07:06 AM
I have seen Ants electric job b4...I would be taking a fair trading claim out on him...like I will be doing with the below if some money is not forthcoming my way..
I sent my Suzuki GSXR1100 to the local SUZUKI dealer for a tune..5 months...yes...5 months later and having had the carbs off 5 times and supposedly pulling them down and cleaned them..I went and picked it up...still running shithouse.....at the new mechanics place...we find they had snapped of the vacuum brass tube on the outside of the 4th carb...was never going to be right..after we pulled the carbs down..the jets were full of crusty white stuff from where water had sat in the bowls.....needless to say we will be having a chat about the bill I paid when I get it back from the current mechanics running right with dirt jets and parts in my hand.
R
Mine is getting better...now we have no drive in the brand new clutch so that cover has to come off...bet they have left the clutch nut undone and it has come off.
R
#35
_studricho_
Posted 04 December 2008 - 07:16 AM
Mine is getting better...now we have no drive in the brand new clutch so that cover has to come off...bet they have left the clutch nut undone and it has come off.
R
Maybe they didn't align the little push thingy into the cover properly?
#36
_SableMet7/73_
Posted 04 December 2008 - 02:30 PM
Seen more than a few too in 30 odd years & had a few myself
as well. Dont like mulling over past bad experiences so wont go
into them.
But have these guys thought of their liability if their dodgey arse
work causes an accident resulting in injury or worse, Death!
One dealership I worked at years ago told us they had to have
something around a couple of million in liability insurance for the
dealership & mechanics were covered up to 1/4 million, dont know
if that was each of us. This was a while ago so probably a lot more now.
Customers can be just as bad too. Had a turbo Starion on the hoist one day
heap of crap, found around 30 plus things rooted on it but the most important
being that the outer brake pad in the LH rear caliper was missing completely.
So the caliper was now doing the braking on the outside of the disc & was
way past being US & with the worn inner pad the piston wasnt far off popping out.
We knew he was young & therefore had no money so found the
cheapest set of pads & a S/H disc, but unbeleivibly got us to do some other work &
not to bother with the brakes as "they work,.... sort of".
My boss made him sign something that relinquished us of all responseability before we'd
give his car back.
A brake place I left recently had a Patrol in, brakes not right & "me mate just put new
pads in on the weekend". So pulled the wheels & the knob had put them in backwards,
brake pad backing plate to disc, which then required new discs & pads. Gee thanx mate!
Cheers Jono
#37
Posted 04 December 2008 - 04:27 PM
The amount of dodgey stuff ive found never ceases to amaze me! Not only on the monaro which you could "understand", but on the falcon too!
I bought the AU (Arsehole Ugly) because i wanted a BOG STOCK heap of shit to drive around every day with all the mod cons... What do i find... HVAC controls faulty.
The scum at ford ripped the dash out.. had it for over a week cause they could replicate the fault.. but NO idea what was causing it... and eventually reassembled with all my old parts and Lo and Behold... it works.... Problem has since resurfaced and ive found that they not only caused a TONNE of dash rattles last removal, but they comepltely stuffed the removal mechanism for the radio which now has to be Pried out to gain access to the dash inners.
And they have the gall to charge $100/hr labour.
Yeah.. Right.
I just cant get over people who drive with blatantly deadly problems like malfunctioning brakes!
Next time you drive at night.. take note of the amount of cars you see with red lights on the dashboard as theyre driving along!!
Now.. I always assumed red was BAD - and it really scared me how many people drive with these warning lights blaring at them!!
#38
_evil UC hatch_
Posted 04 December 2008 - 05:15 PM
#39
Posted 04 December 2008 - 06:49 PM
Just be careful with that modification Mick as removing the gutter can allow water water to collect in your dizzy when washing the car and do some damage if not noticed.
Thanks for the advice Hatchman. This car shouldn't get wet too often but better to be careful.
I was thinking of putting a some extra fall in the existing gutter so the water drains away before getting to the distributor. Have about 8 to 10mm clearance between the gutter and distributor as is.
Found a few more small problems which I have now fixed. Last one was connecting the speedo cable. It looked like it was in place but it wasn't. Had to cut the tranmission tunnel and work from inside the car then seal it back up again. Absolutely no room from below with the exhaust system and gearbox mounting/supports in the road.
If something did happen to the mechanic that did this rubbish I'm sure it would be justifiable homicide.

#40
_studricho_
Posted 04 December 2008 - 09:17 PM
He calls us up to say that he is filling up the radiator after changing the water pump and now water is leaking out the exhaust.
Car get's towed in. We topped up the water to see it for ourselves and yep..presto water out the exhaust pipe.
Turns out he mixed up the 2 longer bolts that hold the pump on. One is longer cause it goes through a bracket.
Well, he just keep turning that bolt until he punch a hole into number one cylinder which was on exhaust stroke by the way.
Cheap pump turned into new engine..
#41
_xuidave_
Posted 04 December 2008 - 10:10 PM
D.
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users