Poo rocket
#1 _torana_umunga74_
Posted 01 January 2009 - 11:28 AM
SMDC0112.JPG 70.8K 50 downloadsas it sits in the shed right now
SMDC0113.JPG 71.88K 74 downloads
SMDC0114.JPG 57.38K 24 downloadsmost of the rust thats out on it is pretty fiddly
SMDC0116.JPG 64.02K 25 downloads
SMDC0117.JPG 78.11K 20 downloadsbig fan of fishoil
SMDC0118.JPG 83.37K 18 downloads
SMDC0119.JPG 93.18K 22 downloadsmaking some cut outs to try cut the strips for welding
SMDC0124.JPG 92.68K 32 downloads 200 hp... hen power
SMDC0126.JPG 72.07K 28 downloadsits a bit of a dog
SMDC0122.JPG 86.74K 15 downloadsbackseat is rooted
SMDC0115.JPG 75.86K 11 downloadsnice brown vinyl matches the original colour
shes my baby and ill keep it forever. ill post up as i go at the same time doing the new paint on the torry
#2 _torana_umunga74_
Posted 08 January 2009 - 09:00 AM
SMDC0128.JPG 85.98K 17 downloads the card templates are on all 4 lower corners makes it easier to cut and tack it all
SMDC0129.JPG 91.56K 21 downloads
SMDC0130.JPG 98.15K 11 downloadsthis is just a straight section but its reinforcement so ill prob use thicker steel to weld on
SMDC0133.JPG 90.15K 12 downloads im cutting the bits off a spare guard that was cut and flared, so no bloody good to anyone.
SMDC0135.JPG 101.95K 17 downloads tapped into shape around the corner still on the car
SMDC0137.JPG 78.77K 17 downloadsthis was a hard curve to do so i cut it as much as i could.
SMDC0139.JPG 80.41K 21 downloads shaped metal ready for tacking and welding once i get the 'L' sections cut too.
SMDC0141.JPG 74.19K 19 downloads beats the shit out of bog
ive got the interior out and im brushing and proofing the floor with a plasti base rust converter/primer, u cant see this panel so it doesnt matter but u cant use the stuff under topcoat. interior needs a trim the back seat is in trouble.
i kno its not a torana and i know its not even a holden but this car is really important to me and im sure some of you can appreciate itas classic nature even just because its old.
nic
#3
Posted 08 January 2009 - 10:45 AM
#4 _torana_umunga74_
Posted 28 April 2009 - 10:18 AM
#5 _Squarepants_
Posted 28 April 2009 - 11:20 AM
You should be able to get a new windscreen from Novus or any of the windscreen specialists.
When welding in the tight corners, use a pneumatic (or electric if you don't have a compressor) die grinder with a small radiused burr. Even a Dremmel would prolly do. Otherwise see if you can weld the underside before you weld it into the car. If you sit it all in position and give it a few light tacks on top to hold it together in shape, then pull it out to weld it fully underneath (being careful not to distort the shape), then you just have to clean up the small tacks on top.
Hope it all goes well, but when it's done, just be prepared for all the w*nkers telling you that you should put a rotary in it.
#6 _torana_umunga74_
Posted 28 April 2009 - 02:16 PM
cheers for the reply!!
#7 _torana_umunga74_
Posted 28 April 2009 - 09:54 PM
this is a bit i tapped into shape for the rear windscreen, i did the same for the other side. its all one piece.
after the weld, its really just a load of tacks then 1cm welds all as far apart as possible so it wont warp. the ups an downs are cost its really hard togrind in a level line lol when i couldnt figur the angles i just cut little pieces and welded them in like the little square right in the corner.
this is the support where i practiced gettin the mig goin well. i used steel off a valiant to strengthen it, came up a treat. it'll hold awesome an no rust under it, there are holes so i can fill it with rust proof stuff.
other side after i cut it straight as i could. reall happy with it. its not straight cos i gave it a good beating so it didnt touch the guard.
this is the othe side all cut and ground. i definately need a die grinder lol
i reckon i got it pretty straight all the chrome fits back on an the window fits. i love havin the mig!!!
#8 _johnharte_
Posted 30 April 2009 - 09:46 PM
Keep them coming...
#9 _torana_umunga74_
Posted 01 May 2009 - 01:45 PM
#10 _LXATIV_
Posted 01 May 2009 - 02:44 PM
#11 _torana_umunga74_
Posted 02 May 2009 - 01:39 PM
here are the pics of all the steps. the comments are above the pics this time.
this is the reinforcement under the curve i shaped a new bit with a hammer and dolly and fudged the angle. then i covered it all in rust primer
all welded this stops the duct panel from flexing at the corner.
this is the corer channel. it looks straight but its got a wanker curve in it took a while.
this is it in position
this is all the bits where they will sit.
all tacked up tapping all the time. after these tacks i just keep halving the distance between til they are about half a CM apart then weld it bit by bit.
all welded
ground off looks a million bucks
next up is one last corner then bog it back to smooth shape.
sorry for all the pics!
#12 _torana_umunga74_
Posted 03 May 2009 - 04:16 PM
#13
Posted 03 May 2009 - 06:40 PM
#14
Posted 03 May 2009 - 08:17 PM
And I know that it is difficult sometimes,but clean (spotless) surfaces will make your welding job a lot easier.
As you know,grinding is a pain in the arse.
Coming along well.
#15 _torana_umunga74_
Posted 03 May 2009 - 09:02 PM
cheers
#16 _torana_umunga74_
Posted 08 May 2009 - 04:48 PM
#17 _torana_umunga74_
Posted 08 May 2009 - 04:57 PM
this is the bottom of the guard before i started
first section. im doing it in parts so it holds its shape otherwise it'll never be right.
last windscreen corner before grinding.
more photos to come.
ive been trying some lower wire speeds but its different for every section. and ive been cleaning the immediate weld area alot more before i start,
cheers
nic
#18 _Squarepants_
Posted 08 May 2009 - 07:46 PM
You're getting there, mate! Keep at it, you'll have the sweetest stocko 808 on the road soon!
You should put a rotary in it!!! Ha ha.
Can't wait to see this thing finished.
Make sure you post some pics of your repairs when they're ground back and etch primed, so we can see how little bog is going to be required to smooth them out! (All the repairs will still need a certain amount of smoothing, the better you do them, the less the smoothing needed)
A skim of bog is not neccessarily a bad thing if done properly. Better than filling holes with it, anyway!
#19 _torana_umunga74_
Posted 08 May 2009 - 08:42 PM
#20 _torana_umunga74_
Posted 08 May 2009 - 10:27 PM
i actually did some welds from above, some from beneath it helps to stop it warping with this thin metal. the mazda is easy 2/3 the guage of torana steel an half of a valiant, but its got some of both welded in lol
the puppy, lookin decidedly freaky lol
#21 _torana_umunga74_
Posted 08 May 2009 - 10:34 PM
and after
sorry bout all the pics this is brilliant for showin the family an stuff.
cheers
nic
#22
Posted 08 May 2009 - 10:52 PM
It prevents all the dirt and crap sucking up through the weld and contaminating it.
Also try to remove the paint from your patch panels before you make them.It has to come off anyway before you bog it up,and it stops the edges where you are welding getting thin from grinding the paint off.
Have you noticed that sometimes the tacks are great but other times the metal just blows away and you have to fill a big gap with weld?
The reason is variation in metal thickness and contamination from paint and crap that hasnt been completely removed.
Good luck,Craig.
#23 _torana_umunga74_
Posted 08 May 2009 - 11:34 PM
#24 _torana_umunga74_
Posted 12 June 2009 - 10:39 PM
#25 _torana_umunga74_
Posted 11 July 2009 - 11:05 AM
anyone know a reasonable trimmeer in newie? i just want some quotes i spose.
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