317 replies to this topic

[its Paul]

Thanks Michael,
yeah its the photo, just the angle of the shot.



I will more than likely do what Rory did to No1 & No2 with the Z32 4 pots.


Cheers.

Edited by lx8vd77, 07 August 2011 - 07:05 PM.

[its Paul]

I have been playing with these brakes for a while now, I know about the feedback that these brakes generate and didn't want to just throw the towel in without trying a few things, I have spoken to Tony on several occasions, he has offered a refund/exchange, but I wanted to try and make it work. I know some people have UPC Brakes and they work fine, but I think they are 290mm rotors on Torana stubs, I have HX stubs with 330mm rotors and that is kind of throwing things out a little.
I have thought about going 290mm rotors, but am thinking I will still have the same problem.

[its Paul]

Thanks Brett, appreciate the feedback.

They did an awesome job, it cost more than I care to say, by memory they took 9 months to do it.

I still recommend them to any one cause it went from this.....



To this.....



Cheers.

[LS1LX]

Have u tried the calipers non the backside of the stub axle?
Guessing yes but no difference?

[its Paul]

Hi LS1LX, Yeah I did try that, but with the UC x-member, there is a kind of lump (bulging out bit) that hits the calliper when mounted rear wards.



Cheers.

[ls2lxhatch]

If you switch back to Torana stub axles the disc and caliper will move down the stub axle about 20 mm. You would then need to make a new caliper adaptor.

You could check the clearance by fitting the Torana stub axle and sitting the caliper on the disc.

[its Paul]

Hi Jeff, Yeah I saw yours in your thread, they are huge, it amazes me that you can turn the wheels at all, you've done a great job.

The UPC guy is a member of this forum, and am not really interested in bagging him or his product out, But as a heads up to others 330mm rotors and the UPC callipers with HX stubs "WILL NOT FIT", if you have Torana stubs and 290ish rotors and the UPC callipers, apparently they will fit (not that I can vouch for this).

Rory's setup, is a proven setup, and chances are the best bang for your buck, IMHO this is worth a serious look.

Hi ls2lxhatch, I understand what you are saying, I looked at making new brackets for these callipers but they are so big they either clash at the top or hit the steering rod at the bottom, Brembo's, sumitomo's, AP Racing and the like are more compact compared to what I have, so you have a better chance in fitting them.
Also I want to stick with the HX stubs, the A9X type of setup was one of the first things I wanted to do, but with larger rotors as the wheels I will be using are an open type of wheel and a small rotor just looks wrong.
Surly if Jeff can get 360mm's to work I must be able to get 330mm's to work

Cheers.

[myss427]

I would like to know the difference between these and Hopers Stoppers as I have the 330 kit and they fit on the back with no problems at all. Are they different calipers than the hoppers kit, they look similar?

[its Paul]

I could be wrong, but I believe Hoppers use BA2 type callipers, and UPC use VE type callipers, what stubs are you using? also if you have a link to some photos, I wouldn't mind having a look.

[Tyre biter]

Paul,

Are you saying the LX K-Frame doesn't have this bulge and it is applicable to a UC K-Frame only?
Just that my car came with two K-Frames - a crappy one that was in the car and another nicely painted one (for which I am in the process of rebuilding) and both have that bulge...
I too ordered a UPC brake kit but having read your experience I am concerned it won't fit if this bulge is an issue for the same.

Cheers, TB

[LS1LX]

I could be wrong, but I believe Hoppers use BA2 type callipers, and UPC use VE type callipers, what stubs are you using? also if you have a link to some photos, I wouldn't mind having a look.

Would the kit work if you replaced the calipers with the BA2 or would it be a case of making new brackets as well?

[myss427]

I'm using HX stubs and A9X steering arms and only had to put turn stops on wish bones. Maybe a caliper change would be a quick fix? there are pics in the garage section of my car.

Edited by myss427, 12 August 2011 - 11:35 AM.

[its Paul]

It just seemed odd to me the "kit" would have been sold to work on the cars when there is so much wrong really. Making a setup from scratch nearly fits better than something sold to fit pretty much.
I used a bunch of disc kits from here in 330mm to suit first gen Camaros (I ship alot of those over there, car-wise) and they just bolt on and go...you are done in no time and nothing hits,rubs,etc so to see the 330 kit you have (and I did) just made me wonder why even bother selling it for the application in the first place.

Sometimes the allure of dollars has the "who cares, just sell it" factor in it.
I was thinking about talking to you about the camaro rear disc kit that one of the major car stores over there have, its GM rotors and camaro calliper kit to suit 9", about $550 + freight. But that is for another day when my dollar is stronger.

Are you saying the LX K-Frame doesn't have this bulge and it is applicable to a UC K-Frame only?
Just that my car came with two K-Frames - a crappy one that was in the car and another nicely painted one (for which I am in the process of rebuilding) and both have that bulge...
I too ordered a UPC brake kit but having read your experience I am concerned it won't fit if this bulge is an issue for the same.

Cheers, TB

Hi Craig, mate im not sure if they are all the same, but I have seen people with the callipers on the rear and are fine, and I know that they clash with my setup, I just assumed that the bulge was only on the UC.

Would the kit work if you replaced the calipers with the BA2 or would it be a case of making new brackets as well?

Hi, I would think you would need new brackets for BA2's, Hoppers say to swap the stubs from left to right and rear mount the callipers, but I also think this is for the torana stubs and not the HQ to HZ stubs.

I'm using HX stubs and A9X steering arms and only had to put turn stops on wish bones. Maybe a caliper change would be a quick fix? there are pics in the garage section of my car.

Hi, I'll look into the BA Callipers, I think you may be right. I had a look at your Pic's, do you have any more pic's of your setup ?
Is this the steering arm stops you are refering to?




Cheers guys & thanks for the feedback & suggestions, keep them coming.

[myss427]

I ended up making some from the rectangle bump stops on the control arm and drilling a hole in the same place as the UC one and bolted it on. Works the same and looks better I think.

[its Paul]

So you pretty much made what I have?

[its Paul]

Do you also have that bulging out piece (as per the photo above) on the K-Frame?

[LS1LX]

The bulge in the K Frame is for the spring housing, all LH-X and UC have it

[its Paul]

The bulge houses nothing, but it is near where the spring and shock fits into the K-frame,

Does any one have a photo of an LX K-Frame to use as a comparison?

[ls2lxhatch]

The k-frames are basically the same for LH/LX/UC. The bulge does not change, it is there for the LCA bump stop.

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 13 August 2011 - 02:09 PM.

[its Paul]

Excellent ls2, just checked, and I can see what you are saying. Well that clears that one up, was thinking I may have to change the K-Frame.

Cheers.

[ls2lxhatch]

It was not uncommon to see the bump stop cut off for caliper clearance. A compression bump stop like the EA/EB bump stop can be fitted to the shock.

This job was done by a person wearing a blue and white stripped apron. Looks like HQ stubs and steering arms on a Torana k-frame.

[its Paul]

I know the fella that you are talking about, here he is here.....