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Commodore booster and Master on LH/X.

Started by _rorym_ , Jan 27 2009 07:23 PM

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144 replies to this topic

#101 _rorym_

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Posted 21 March 2009 - 06:08 PM

Well as I never do anything by halves, I now have 3 boosters..the green one is a newly recoed one with new 15/15 m/c....also 2 x 1" m/cs..2 x 15/16 Non ABS, 1 x 15/16 m/c ABS.
The spare is for sale with the new 15/16 Non ABS m/c for $100 on Ebay if anyone wants it.
R

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#102 76lxhatch

That was easy!

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Posted 21 March 2009 - 08:56 PM

Its newer,deletes the prop valve..one less thing to fail...and the M/C is specifically designed for rear discs to give near correct pressure proportioning....and up to 1" to help with the 4 spot fronts.
R

OK makes sense except I thought all the Torana masters were 1" anyway?

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#103 antelopeslr5000

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Posted 21 March 2009 - 09:44 PM

OK makes sense except I thought all the Torana masters were 1" anyway?

That's a good point. Are you hoping to achieve better pedal feel/travel with the Commodore M/C Rory or is it more for correct pressure for the rear discs?

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#104 _rorym_

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Posted 22 March 2009 - 12:16 AM

More for the rear discs...modding a prop valve to maybe suit didnt sit well with me.
R

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#105 _rocket_

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Posted 23 March 2009 - 07:48 AM

Couple pics of my setup.

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#106 _rorym_

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Posted 23 March 2009 - 09:11 PM

Rockets stuff is spot on...I have round top Holden masters but its basically the same.
R

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#107 antelopeslr5000

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Posted 23 March 2009 - 09:23 PM

I decided to go for a VT master cylinder. A bit more stuffing around but it should suit my setup better. I'm sure the brake pedal travel won't be as low compared to that of a VN master cylinder.

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#108 _cruiza_

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Posted 24 March 2009 - 11:07 AM

Just to add some clariety / confusion
I did this conversion a number of years ago heres what I did found, I am not saying this is only way just what worked and worked well for me.
Ford XC? master cyclinder 1 in bore (had same PBR part number as A9X)
VL double diaphaim booster
UC brake pedal and bent push rod (shorterned)
Brake guy plumbed it for me & modified push rod on the road there was no need for adjustment / proporting valve as all worked out spot on with vented HQ discs all round and XB calipers on the rear. I think we had replace brake line ferral to rear of car and front lines were replaced as part of tidy up of engine bay anyway

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#109 _rocket_

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Posted 24 March 2009 - 12:43 PM

Thats spot on cruiza.

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#110 _rorym_

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Posted 24 March 2009 - 07:36 PM

Rocket,
Did you have to trim off the plastic tube out of the back of the booster or was it fine?.Looking at it today whan I dropped them off to be shortened taking 50mm out brings the flat end with the hole in it pretty close to the plastic shroud.
R

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#111 _rocket_

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Posted 24 March 2009 - 07:56 PM

Cant really remember Rory, did it about 5 yrs ago, but I dont think so, it all seemed to go together really easy.

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#112 _waz355_

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Posted 24 March 2009 - 08:13 PM

Hey rory I thought the same before I shortened mine, but it just cleared when the pedal is fully depressed.

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#113 _rorym_

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Posted 24 March 2009 - 09:57 PM

Thanks Waz...Have 2 being shortened now.
R

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#114 dattoman

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Posted 25 March 2009 - 03:42 AM

The "plastic" part out the back of the booster is actually made of bakelite
It runs thru the rear seal and seals the rear of the booster
If its cracked , pained or damaged then the rear of the booster will dump air out the back

So no you can't shorten it
And if your doing mods to the rod make sure the booster is apart and your only working on the rod

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#115 _rorym_

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Posted 26 March 2009 - 02:53 PM

I just bought one new from repco PBR for $175. Its a P10050 I think from memory.

Shit they just quoted me $298...RRP is $390!!
R

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#116 _rocket_

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Posted 26 March 2009 - 02:55 PM

Thats good, I paid 240 for mine back then new.

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#117 _rorym_

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Posted 26 March 2009 - 06:01 PM

Both boosters shortened...now if NOS will get my car finished I can work on both.
R

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#118 _waz355_

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Posted 26 March 2009 - 06:33 PM

Shit they just quoted me $298...RRP is $390!!
R

Hey Rory just checked my receipt, I was close it was $185. I have pretty good buying power with repco through work, I can get you one for that price if you like. RRP is $390 on my receipt too.

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#119 fuzzypumper

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Posted 27 March 2009 - 10:41 AM

So no you can't shorten it
And if your doing mods to the rod make sure the booster is apart and your only working on the rod

So am I to assume people have been cutting and welding the bent rod while the booster is assembled?

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#120 _rorym_

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Posted 28 March 2009 - 03:29 PM

We did it slow..2 tacks..and used heaps of wet rags. Also cut it off right at the end of the rod to control the heat.
R

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#121 _waz355_

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Posted 28 March 2009 - 10:12 PM

So am I to assume people have been cutting and welding the bent rod while the booster is assembled?

I pulled mine apart, bit of a struggle to get it undone but nothing to them once you get it apart.

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#122 _brett_32i_

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Posted 29 March 2009 - 07:58 AM

maybe one for datto, is it possible to put a shorter actuating spring in the diaphragm?

not sure its actual name, but you know how you have that spring between input and actual output of the booster.

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#123 dattoman

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Posted 29 March 2009 - 11:30 AM

The wheel exists already guys

Stop trying to reinvent it

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#124 _brett_32i_

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Posted 29 March 2009 - 03:04 PM

so there is no such thing as a better wheel??

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#125 fuzzypumper

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Posted 05 April 2009 - 04:52 PM

FYI : I was at the All American motor show today and some Brake booster specialist selling boosters had a booth there so I quized him regarding the mods discussed in this topic.

He said:
-they modify alot of rods, mostly when they do the booster is dismantled , the rod is cut then dowelled and TIG welded.
-the bent type rod from the LX DD booster cant be transplanted into a VB-VR type DD booster as the internal connection is not the same or the diaphram is different (I dont know about this unless he misunderstood my question).